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TOWNS of NEW ENGLAND 

AND 

©lb Cnglanb 

IRELAND and SCOTLAND 
Tart I 



^" TOWNS ^' ^ 



Of 



NEW ENGLAND 



AND 



0lii Cnglanb, 

IRELAND a^^d SCOTLAND 

Connecting Links between Cities and Towns 

of New England and Those of the Same 

Name in England, Ireland and Scotland 

Containing Narratives, Descriptions, 

and Many Views, some done 

from Old Prints 




Also much Matter pertaining to 
^\\t jFounberg ant Settlers of i^eto Cnglanb 

and to their Memorials on both sides of the Atlantic 

U^ritten by Allan Forbes and 
Printed to Commemorate The Tercentenary of 

THE LANDING of the PILGRIMS 

PUBLISHED BY 

(§. ^. Putnam's! ^ons 

NEW YORK AND LONDON 

MCMXXI ^„,„. 

. . ^ ■ IH U UC U.lWERSITYO FMEE^ 




This Work 

was planned and prepared 

by direction and under the auspices of 

The State Street Trust Company 

Boston, ^^assachusetts 

U.S.A. 



\^/V 






QJKTHOUC 



UNlvkiiM^AMEWC;^ 




The general treatment of the cover design 

is an adaptation of title-page designs of the 

period of James I, who was King of England, 

Scotland and Ireland at the time of the F'ilgrim 

movement. The use of the tliistle and the rose, sjtd- 

bolizing the union of Scotland and England, was common 

during that period. The Coat of Arms at the top of the 

design is that of Great Britain as used under the Stuarts. The 

original Coat of .-Vrms formally adopted by Edward III in 1340, 

quartered the lilies of France with the leopards of England, the Irish 

harp being added by Henry \'III, and the lion of Scotland by the Stuarts. 

'Dieu et Mon Droit" was the battle-cr\' of Richard I at Gisors in the year 

1IQ5, signifying that he was subject not to France, but to God alone. He 

adopted it for the motto of the .\rms of England. Edward III is 

responsible for the motto, " Honi Soit Qui Mai Y Pense," which is also 

the motto of the Order of the Garter. The Seal at the base of the 

columns upon either side is that of the Plj-mouth Colony. The 

lower portion of the design between the pillars gives an e.\act 

representation of the tablet inscribed "Mayflower, 1620," 

which marks the spot on the Barbican in Plymouth, 

England, from which the Pilgrims embarked in the 

"Mayflower." A drawing of a ship of that period 

is placed in the design directly below this tablet. 



Copyright. 1920 

BY THE 

STATE STREET TRUST COMPANY 

BosTo.N*. Mass. 

U S. A. 

Printed in tki United States of Anuriea 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



PAGE 

Andover, Massachusetts .' 43 

Barnstable, Massachusetts •. 46 

Bath, Maine 5° 

Belfast, Maine 58 

Beverly, Massachusetts 62 

Bristol, Maine, Rhode Island and New Hampshire 68 

Cambridge, Massachusetts 74 

Chatham, Massachusetts 82 

Chelmsford, Massachusetts 87 

Dartmouth — New Bedford — Bedford, Massachusetts 93 

Dedham, IMassachusetts 104 

Dorchester, Massachusetts 1 1 1 

Dubhn, New Hampshire 1 24 

Falmouth, Massachusetts 127 

Gloucester, Massachusetts 130 

Groton, Massachusetts - i44 

Hartford, Connecticut 150 

Harwich, Massachusetts 158 

Hingham, Massachusetts 162 

Melrose, Massachusetts 170 

Northampton, Massachusetts i7S 

Norwich, Connecticut 181 

Plymouth and Southampton, Massachusetts 17 

Portsmouth and Rye, New Hampshire 186 

Sandwich, Massachusetts i94 

Wareham, Massachusetts 201 

Woodstock, Vermont and Connecticut 205 

Worcester, Massachusetts 208 

Yarmouth, Massachusetts 216 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



PAGE 

Plymouth, Massachusetts Frontispiece 

Map of England showing English Towns mentioned in Part I . Opposite Foreword 

Pilgrim Fathers Memorial, Southampton, England i6 

Barbican, Plymouth, England 20 

Mayflower Tablet 20 

Tablet and Inscription on the Wall of the Barbican, Plymouth, England 22 

Plymouth Hoe, Plymouth, England 2,? 

Tablet placed near the Supposed Landing Place of the Pilgrims, Provincetown, Massa- 
chusetts 24 

Pilgrim Memorial Tower, Town Hill, Provincetown, Massachusetts 25 

Plymouth Rock, Plymouth, Massachusetts 26, 28 

Burial Hill, Plymouth, Massachusetts 2q 

Pilgrim Monument, Plymouth, Massachusetts 30 

Remains of the Wreck of the English Vessel "Sparrowhawk" 31 

Leyden Street, Plymouth, Massachusetts 32 

Present \'iew of Leyden Street 34 

Delfshaven, Holland 35 

Arrival of the N. C. 4 at Plymouth, England 37 

Walls of Southampton, England 3Q 

West Gate, Southampton. England 40 

Water Gate, Southampton, England 41 

Brechin Hall, Andover Theological Seminary, Andover, Massachusetts 43 

Upper Clatford Village, near Andover, England 44 

Chancery Street, Andover, England 44 

Parish Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, Barnstaple, England 47 

Barnstaple, England, showing the Bridge 48 

Sacrament Rock, Barnstable, ^L^ssachusetts 48 

Sir John and Lady Popham Monument in the Parish Church, Wellington, England ... 51 

Popham Memorial 52 

Fort Popham and Site of Popham Memorial at the Mouth of the Kennebec River .... 53 

"Doughboys" at Roman Baths, Bath, England S4 

Bath, England 56 

The Royal Crescent, Bath, England 56 

Belfast, Ireland SO 

High Street, Belfast, Ireland, 1786 60 

Castle Place, Belfast, Ireland, 1843 61 

Cloth Shield in rooms of Liberty Lodge, Beverly, Massachusetts 63 

Reply of Thanks from Beverley, England 63 

Beverley Minster, Beverley, England 64 

North Bar, Beverley, England 65 

Market Place, Beverley, England 66 

Cabot Tower, Brandon Hill, Bristol, England 69 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Pring Memorial, Bristol, England 70 

Bristol, England 71 

West View of Cambridge, England 73 

Cambridge, England 73 

Emmanuel College, Cambridge, England 75 

Harvard Memorial Chapel and Window, St. Saviour's Church, Southwark, London ... 76 

Harvard Memorial Window, Chapel of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, England 76 

Harvard House, early Home of John Harvard's Mother, Stratford-on-Avon, England ... 76 

Granite Shaft to the Memory of John Harvard 77 

Cup Given to Emmanuel College, Cambridge, England 77 

Church and Priory of Ste. Marie Overie (now St. Saviour's), Southwark, London .... 78 

Harvard College, 1726 80 

Royal Dock Yard, Chatham, England 83 

Prospect of His Majesty's Royal Navy 84 

" Mayflower " Inscription in front of the Old Twin Lights, Chatham, Massachusetts ... 85 
Boulder and Tablet marking the probable Grave of William Nickerson, Chatham, Massa- 
chusetts 86 

Chelmsford, England 88 

All Saints Church, Chelmsford, Massachusetts go 

Chelmsford, England, and the River Chelmer 92 

St. Mary's Church, Chelmsford, England 92 

"New Bedford Fifty Years Ago" (1S08) 94 

East View of Bedford Bridge, lygo 94 

Reply from Dartmouth, England 96 

Bedfordshire 98 

Gosnold Memorial 99 

Landing of Bartholomew Gosnold 99 

Dartmouth, England, and the Harbour 100 

Dartmouth, England, showing Dartmouth Castle 100 

Birth of the Whaling Industry, New Bedford, Massachusetts 102 

John Bunyan's Cottage, Elstow, near Bedford, England 103 

Southern View of the Court-House, Dedham, Massachusetts 105 

Norfolk Agricultural Society's Exhibition 105 

Bust of Rev. John Rogers 106 

"Vale of Dedham," England 107 

Dedham Street, Dedham, England 108 

Dedham Church, England 109 

Dedham, England no 

Tablets in First Parish Church, Dorchester, Massachusetts 112 

"The New Hospital," Plymouth, England 113 

Meeting House Hill, Dorchester, Massachusetts, 1847 114 

Ancient Roman Pavement at Entrance of the Dorchester High School, Dorchester, Massa- 
chusetts no 

Hangman's Cottage, Dorchester, England 117 

Birthplace of Sir Thomas Hardy, Bockhampton, Dorchester, England 117 

St. Peter's Church, Dorchester, England 118 

Tablet in the Parish Church of St. Peter's, Dorchester, England 119 

Remains of the House in Dorchester, England, in which Rev. John Whitelived 120 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

High Street West, Dorchester, England 121 

Pieces of Bread and Corn-cob brought to Dorchester, Massachusetts, in 1630 122 

View of Parliament House and College Green, Dublin, Ireland 1 23 

Blarney Castle 123 

Castle of Dublin 125 

Falmouth, England 128 

Album presented in 1892 by the Mayor and Town Council of Gloucester, England, to 

Gloucester, Massachusetts 131 

Exterior View of the Album presented by Gloucester, England, to Gloucester, Massa- 
chusetts 132 

Tablet at Stage Fort Park, Gloucester, Massachusetts 133 

Larger View of Tablet on Rock at Stage Fort Park, Gloucester, Massachusetts 133 

Portuguese Church, Gloucester, Massachusetts 135 

Stage Fort, First Settlement at Gloucester, Massachusetts, 1623 138 

Roger Conant House, first house erected in Gloucester, at Stage Fort, 1623 138 

Gloucester, Massachusetts 139 

Ancient West Gate House and Bridge, Gloucester, England 140 

College Court, Gloucester, England 141 

City of Gloucester, England, and Gloucester Cathedral from the River Severn 142 

Docks of Gloucester, England 143 

Winthrop Family Tomb, Groton Church, Groton, England 146 

Groton Church, Groton, England 147 

Pieces of Stained Glass from Groton Church, Groton, England 147 

East Window, Groton Church, Groton, England, 1875 149 

South Window, Groton Church, Groton, England, 1880 149 

Rev. Thomas Hooker and his Congregation on their Long Journey from Newlowne (now 

Cambridge) to found Hartford, Connecticut 152 

All Saints Church, Hertford, England 153 

Mayor, Aldermen and Councilmen of Hertford, England 153 

Port Hill, Hertford, England 155 

Monuments in Center Church Burying Ground, Hartford, Connecticut, to the Memory of 

its Early Settlers 155 

Hertford Castle, Hertford, England 156 

Tablet in St. Nicholas Hall, Hertford, England 157 

Flagstone from a Street in Harwich, England 158 

Harwich, England 159, 161 

Old Meeting House, often called "The Old Ship Church," Hingham, Massachusetts, erected 

i68i 163 

Hingham, England 163 

Room on Second Floor of Hingham Memorial Tower 164 

Rear View of the Tower, Hingham, Massachusetts 165 

Mounting Block near Village Green, Hingham, England 168 

Bust of Abraham Lincoln in the Parish Church, Hingham, England 169 

Scene on Village Common, Hingham, England 170 

Trinity Church, Melrose, Massachusetts 171 

Melrose, Scotland 172 

Chancel and East Window, Melrose Abbey, Scotland 172 

Melrose Abbey, founded by David I, King of Scotland 173 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

The Eleanor Cross, Northampton, England iy4 

Ancestral Home of the Family of George Washington, Sulgrave, Northampton, England 176 

Northampton, England 177 

Views of Market Square, Northampton, England 178 

Northampton, Massachusetts, showing Main Street, 1838 180 

Northampton, Massachusetts, 1842 180 

Founders' Monument, Norwich, Connecticut 184 

Tablet on Odiorne's Point, Rye, New Hampshire, opposite Newcastle 186 

Tablet in Garrison Church, Portsmouth, England 187 

Tablet on Star Island, Isles of Shoals, off the Coast of New Hampshire 189 

St. Sepulchre Church, London igo 

House in Rye, England, in which Henry James lived from i8g8 to 1916 191 

Mermaid Street, Rye, England, showing Mermaid Inn 192 

Portsmouth, England, 1825 193 

Sandwich, England — Sandown Road 195 

Cattle Market and Town HaU, Sandwich, England 195 

Nye Family Boulder, Sandwich, Massachusetts 196 

"Saddle" Rock, Sandwich, Massachusetts 197 

"Pillion" Rock, Sandwich, Massachusetts 198 

Barbican, Sandwich, England igg 

Strand Street, Sandwich, England 201 

St. Martin's Church, Wareham, England 202 

Tow Path, South Bridge and Trinity Church Tower, Wareham, England 204 

North Street, Wareham, England 204 

St. James Church, Woodstock, Vermont 206 

Woodstock, England, showing Park Street and the Market Place 207 

West View of the City of Worcester, England 209 

Worcester, England 209 

Suit of Armour used in the Battle of Worcester 210 

Northeast View of Worcester Cathedral, England, 1789 211 

All Saints Church, Worcester, Massachusetts 212 

Relics from Worcester Cathedral, Worcester, England 213 

Friar Street, Worcester, England 214 

Worcester, Massachusetts (Main Street) 215 

The Quay, Yarmouth, England 217, 218 

Grey Friars Row, Yarmouth, England 220 

Market Place, Yarmouth, England 222 

Monimient to Richard Sears, Yarmouth, Massachusetts 223 




ENGL.\ND, 

showing, by capital letters and dots within the circles, locations of the Knglish towns mentioned in this 

book and in Part II. 



FOREWORD 

THE Tercentenary of the Landing of the Pilgrims at Provincetown on Novem- 
ber II, 1620, and of the first Landing at Plymouth on December 21st of 
the same year, will be celebrated this autumn not only by the people of 
New England but by most of the other States, and also by England, Holland and 
doubtless other countries. We therefore believe this to be an appropriate year to 
issue this volume treating of the connecting links between New England and 
Old England, including most of the cities and towns named after the places in 
England, Ireland and Scotland, from the beginning of the first settlement at 
Plymouth, Massachusetts. 

It is our belief that there are many people who do not know who were the early 
settlers of the cities or towns, or of other places in the New England States. We 
think, too, there may be many who do not know how or why these New England 
communities have been given their present names, and we also believe few people 
realize the close relationship and the many links between many of our New England 
cities and towns and the mother cities and towns of the Old Country. 

This idea was suggested to the Trust Company by Walter R. Whiting, Esq., who 
showed us several interesting pamphlets written by Rev. Louis C. Cornish describ- 
ing the interesting exchanges of friendship that have taken place between New 
Hingham and Old Hingham. 

We have attempted in this book to describe many of the messages, gifts and 
official or unofficial visits between the places of the same name in the New England 
States and the British Isles, and we believe most of this material has never before 
been collected; in fact, much of this information has never appeared in print, 
except perhaps occasionally in accounts of city or town celebrations, or in city or 
town records. Much assistance has been furnished by Mayors of cities, Town 
Clerks, Selectmen, officers of Libraries and Historical Societies, and by people 
in the different cities and towns in New England, who have very kindly forwarded 
to the Trust Company in many cases original documents, histories, letters, records, 
city and town reports, and photographs for our examination and reproduction, 
and it is to these persons the Trust Company and those who read this book are 
particularly indebted. 



lo FOREWORD 

We have endeavored to outline very briefly the early history of these cities 
and towns in New England which were named for cities and towns in Great Britain, 
and we also have included a short history of these places in the Old Country, which 
on account of their great age and long history we can only deal with very briefly. 
We have felt that New Englanders would like to know more of these English, Scotch 
and Irish places from which most of our settlers came. We furthermore beheve 
that this history will result in further interchanges of friendship, gifts and corre- 
spondence, either ofiicial or unofficial, between cities and towns in America and 
places of the same name, and perhaps even other places, in Great Britain. We 
have not been able to include all the cities and towns in New England in this 
book, and have therefore reserved half of our material for a second number. These 
two volumes will describe most of the places in Massachusetts, and the most im- 
portant ones in the other New England States, that have been named for places in 
Great Britain; it has been necessary to leave out all the towns and cities in New 
England that have been named for distinguished persons in the British Isles. 

It has also been our endeavor to reproduce and describe the many tablets, memo- 
rials and statues on both sides of the Atlantic which coimect the places of the same 
name in New England and Great Britain, and we think the reader will be surprised 
to find that England has erected almost as many memorials to the early explorers, 
settlers and Pilgrims of New England as we have done ourselves. We have also 
added pictures, or photographs of old prints, of particular places of interest to 
Americans in the Enghsh cities and towns, and have likewise included pictures and 
photographs of some rare prints of some of our largest New England cities and 
towns, which wc think will be of particular interest both to New Englanders and 
to the people of Great Britain. 

We regret that the size of this history must necessarily be larger than the other 
fifteen annual publications that have been issued by the Trust Company, owing 
to the fact that there was so much material that it could not be properly treated in 
the usual space. We have thought it wise to begin the account with Plymouth 
and Southampton owing to the particular interest on both sides of the Atlantic in 
these places at this time. Other places are arranged alphabetically. 

The Trust Company desires especially to thank Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq., 
of Farnham, England, for having personally collected much valuable data and 
pictures of most of the cities and towns in Great Britain, of which mention is made, 
for without his valuable and efficient co-operation this book would have been 
impossible. The Trust Company also wishes to thank the many English Mayors, 
city and town ofilcials, Secretaries of Museums and other societies, and photogra- 
phers, for information and photographs forwarded through Mr. Forbes- Robertson. 

The Trust Company is grateful for permission to use valuable material gathered 
by the late Oscar Fay Adams, a distinguished author of Boston, in checking up his 
material with that presented herewith. During his lifetime Mr. Adams published 



FOREWORD II 

in various periodicals, such as the New England Magazine, Dedham Historical 
Register, Essex Antiquarian, Boston Transcript, and the Christian Register, a number 
of articles about "Our English Parent Towns." Among his posthumous papers 
is the manuscript of a complete and as yet unpublished volume upon the subject, the 
result of his wide research, liistorical, architectural and antiquarian, in England, which 
he dearly loved. Mr. Adams died at Truro, Massachusetts, in 1919. It is fitting that 
his work and his name should have their share in preparing a volume along this line 
in which he was especially interested. We wish to thank Miss Abbie Farwell 
Brown and Miss M. B. Lazenby for procuring for our use Mr. Adams' manuscript. 

As much time has been spent in preparing this book, it seems proper to 
mention that the writer and compiler of this information is the President of the 
State Street Trust Company, and that assistance in compiling has been given by 
the First Vice President of the Company. The Company desires also to recognize 
the efficient services of Miss Florence H. Cabot, who has given her time exclusively 
for many months towards arranging this material, and also, the ser\ices of Miss 
Edith E. Olson and Ralph M. Eastman. 

The Company also wishes to thank Perry Walton, Esq., and the staff connected 
with his company, the Walton Advertising and Printing Company, for much 
time and care given in the preparation of this volume. 

A hst of the persons who have helped us is appended, and we thank them for 
their great assistance and at the same time hope that they will approve of the results 
of our labours. 

We thank His Excellency, Governor Calvin Coohdge, and his Secretary, Henry 
F. Long, Esq., who helped us in regard to Northampton; Hon. Andrew J. Peters, 
Mayor of Boston, and his Secretary, E. V. B. Parke, Esq., who helped us in regard 
to Boston, which we have had to postpone until next year. We also wish to thank 
Rt. Rev. Bishop Lawrence for valuable assistance in regard to interchanges, which 
we have treated in the second volume, between churches in the two countries; also 
Otto Fleischner, Esq., and other officials of the Boston PubHc Library, who have 
shown great courtesy and kindness in the selection of many books treating of these 
places in both countries; also Mrs. Mary Fifield King, for much valuable English 
material given to us. 

Pl\'mouth and Southampton, Massachusetts: Capt. Arthur H. Clark, Fred- 
erick W. Kitts (Plymouth, England), Wilfred H. Schoff, Secretary Commercial Mu- 
seum, Philadelphia, Pa., Walter K. Watkins, Arthur Lord, Rev. Arthur Bryant Whitney, 
F. C. Holmes, Louis A. Law, Rev. Dr. J. Irving Brown of the Scots Church in 
Rotterdam, Capt. John A. Cook, Howard F. Hopkins, Josephine Young. 

Andover, Massachusetts: Bartlett H. Hayes, Claude Moore Fuess, Charlotte H. 
Abbott, Alfred L. Ripley, John N. Cole. 

Barnstable, Massachusetts: Thomas C. Thacher, Henry M. Hutchings, Miss 
Mary G. Hinckley, Miss Abbie L. Hinckley, Alfred Crocker, Richard Cobb, Sturgis 



12 FOREWORD 

Library; Bath, Maine: Harold M. Sewall, Rev. Henry S. Burrage, Evelyn L. Gil- 
more, John Hatton (Bath, England), Fred D. Wardle (Bath, England). Belfast, 
Maine: David H. Smith, Henry E. Dunnack. Beverly, Massachusetts: Rev. 
E. J. V. Huiginn, H. Franklin Murray, Charles E. Ober. Bristol, Maine, Rhode 
Island, New Hampshire: Rev. Henry S. Burrage, Evelyn L. Gilmore, Rev. Albert C. 
Lamed, Albert C. Bates, Thomas B. Steele, Wilfred H. Monro, Wallis E. Howe, Kate I. 
Stewart, Maria D. Norris. 

Cambridge, Massachusetts: William C. Lane, Walter B. Briggs, Charles Belden, 
Librarian of the Boston Public Library, Elizabeth G. Norton, Edgar H. Wells. Cil\t- 
h.\u, Massachusetts: Augustus M. Bearse, Ernest E. Budder (Chatham, England), 
C. H. Smallhoff, Wilham C. Smith. Chelmsford, Massachusetts: Rev. Wilson 
Waters. 

Dartmouth, New Bedford and Bedford, Massachusetts: George H. Tripp, 
Charles W. Jenks. Dedham, Massachusetts: Julius H. Tuttle, Miss Elizabeth 
Humphreys, Rev. William F. Cheney, Clifton P. Baker, Charles Stearns, Secretary of 
tie Dedham Historical Society. Dorchester, Massachusetts: Mrs. Mary Fifield 
King, Rev. Simon B. Blunt, S. J. Willis, William B. Thurber, Frederick S. Brown, 
James E. Thomas, E. A. Huebener, Miss Lottie M. Allen, Edwin J. Lewis, Jr., H. Pouncy 
(Dorchester, England), John Acland (Dorchester, England), Rev. H. F. Burns. Dublin, 
New Hampshere: Henry D. Allison, Joseph Lindon Smith, Mrs. Jasper Whiting, Mrs. 
Florence C. Howes, Dr. Henry H. Piper, Herbert Maynard. 

Falmouth, Massachusetts: Edward N. Fenno, Edward N. Fenno, Jr., Rev. 
Henry Herbert Smythe, Harry V. Lawrence. 

Gloucester, Massachusetts: Allen F. Grant, Henry D. Sleeper, Rev. Francis V. 
DeBem, Mrs. Joseph P. Mesquita, William J. Day, W. A. Reed. Groton, Mas- 
sachusetts: Rev. Sherrard Billings, Georgianna A. Boutwell, Mrs. Robert C. Win- 
throp, Frederic Winthrop. 

H/\rtford, Connecticut: Hon. Louis R. Cheney, Williston Walker, J. P. Mor- 
gan, William B. Bassett. Harwich, Massachusetts: Thomas H. Nickerson, John H. 
Paine. Hingham, Massachusetts: Rev. Louis C. Cornish, Rev. Houghton Page, 
Walter R. Whiting, George S. Marsh, Gustavus O. Henderson, James Dean, Hugh Ban- 
croft, Rev. H. K. Bartow, Rev. Milo H. Gates, D.D. 

Melrose, Massachusetts: Rev. Hugh Wallace Smith, John Larrabee, Franklin P. 
Shumway, W. De Haven Jones, Ash ton L. Carr. 

Northampton, Massachusetts: J. L. Harrison, Malcolm B. Stone. Norwich, 
Connecticut: William C. Gilman, Mrs. E. E. Rogers, Albert C. Bates, Imogene A. 
Cash. 

Portsmouth and Rye, New Hampshire: Wallace Hackett, William E. Marvin, 
William D. Turner. 

Sandwich, Massachusetts: Thomas C. Thacher, William L. Nye, Henry M. 
Hutchings, Capt. John S. Carpenter, James L. Wesson, John W. Dalton, Elsie M. Wing, 
J. A. Jacobs (Sandwich, England), Miss Annie A. Rogers. 

Wareham, Massachusetts: Miss Hannah S. B. Dykes, Mr. and Mrs. Rudolph 
Weld. Woodstock, Vermont: W. Rodman Fay, George C. Lee, Edward H. Williams, Jr. 



FOREWORD 13 

Worcester, Massachusetts: Raymond Wyer, A. L. Stratton, Benjamin Thomas 
Hill, Clarence S. Brigham, Dwight S. Pierce, John B. Dyer. 

Yarmouth, Massachusetts: Thomas C. Thacher, Louis B. Thacher, Henry M. 
Hutchings, the late Willard T. Sears, Charles W. Swift, Richard Simpkins, Mrs. Lydia 
C. Matthews. 

Those who have helped us in connection with towns which we have had to 
omit until next year, and those who have helped us in general matters connected 
with the New England cities and towns and to whom we are also greatly indebted, 
are: — 

Miss Susan Ilsley Adams, W. F. Adams, John Albree, Charles F. Allen, Thomas H. 
Armstrong, Marion S. Arnold, M. M. Baker, G. C. Baldwin, Thomas Tileston Baldwin, 
Solon Bancroft, Francis Bardwell, Albert C. Bates, James Phinney Baxter, Mrs. Caroline 
A. Bill, Mrs. Charles S. Bird, Lillian E. Bishop, Hon. Chas. M. Blodgett, C. K. Bolton, 
Mrs. John P. Bowditch, John P. Bowditch, Nathaniel I. Bowditch, Charles H. Butler, 
A. M. Bragdon, Abbie Farwell Brown, Rev. Howard N. Brown, Peter N. Cameron, 
Everett Carleton, Imogene Cash, Librarian, Otis Library, Norwich, Connecticut, Howard 
M. Chapin, Mabel W. Chapin, Robert P. Clapp, A. L. Clarke, George K. Clarke, Rev. 
J. J. Cogan, Hon. George W. Coleman, Judge Louis A. Cook, Mary C. Copeland, Major 
Co.xon, Hon. Walter H. Creamer, Mrs. H. A. Crosby, H. Ashton Crosby, Frederic H. 
Curtiss, R. M. De Cormis, Rev. Wm. H. Dewart, Harold T. Dougherty, John B. 
Dyer, Miss Emma Florence Eaton, Henry H. Edes, Erwin Edwards, George H. Eustis, 
Peter N. Everett, Fred T. Field, Redington Fiske, P. K. Foley, C. F. French, Mrs. 
Clara A. Fuller, J. Pennington Gardiner, C. H. Garland, E. Howard George, Agnes J. 
Goodwin, Miss Elizabeth Gorton, Francis Gray, Daniel M. Gurteen, N. Penrose 
Hallowell, Samuel King Hamilton, Mrs. G. G. Hammond, Edward M. Hartwell, 
City Statistician, E. R. Hastings, Jane A. Hewett, William L. Higgins, Edith 
>L Hodgman, Joshua B. Holden, Joseph I. Horton, Amos E. Jewett, Alfred S. 
Jewett, B. N. Johnson, C. S. Johnson, Harriette E. Jones, George E. Keith, Sinclair 
Kennedy, George S. Keyes, Virginia M. Keyes, Librarian, Lancaster Town Library, 
Rev. W. Appleton Lawrence, Miss H. G. Lee, Rev. Herbert Edwin Lombard, Henry G. 
Lord, Charles A. Loring, Edward Lovering, C. D. Lyons & 'Company, Mercy E. Mac- 
Dermott, Rev. Alexander Mann, Moses W. Mann, Kenneth D. Marlatt, Herbert W. 
Mason, Miss Ida Mason, Lloyd Minton Mayer, Corwin McDowell, Herbert A. McElwain, 
William B. McSkimmon, Spencer P. Mead, John M. Merriam, Dr. Robt. T. Moffatt, 
Alfred A. Montgomery, Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse, Mrs. F. S. Moseley, John G. Moul- 
ton, E. I. Nye, Frank H. Page, Robert Treat Paine, Rev. Charles E. Park, Augustin H. 
Parker, Charles H. Pearson, A. W. Phinney, Fred S. Piper, Mrs. A. N. Rantoul, Josephine 
E. Rayne, Charles F. Read, J. A. Remick, Jr., E. H. R. Revere, Rev. Austin Rice, Dr. 
Austen F. Riggs, Ernest E. Rogers, Lawrence A. Ryder, Richard M. Saltonstall, E. L. San- 
derson, Henry B. Sawyer, J. B. Shearer, T. Sheppard, Clarence E. Sherman, Librarian, 
L>Tin Public Library, Frank Smith, Leonard W. Smith, Robert B. Smith, Jane 
Stevens, Ralph A. Stewart, Charles Stone, John H. Storer, Moorfield Storey, Thomas 
Sutton, Charles H. Taylor, Jr., Edward H. Temple, Edwin A. Tetlow, Bowen Tufts, 



14 FOREWORD 

Miss Sophia Turner, William D. Turner, Julius H. Tuttle, Rev. Wm. Harman van Allen, 
Henry G. Vaughan, Horace G. Wadlin, J. W. Walker, the late Rev. T. Franklin Waters, 
Walter K. Watkins, Rev. Francis E. Webster, Frank H. Whitmore, Moses Williams, 
Miss F. Mabel Winchell, Mrs. Marcia M. Winslow, Maj. Evelyn Wrench, Rev. Arthur 
H. Wright, Mrs. William E. Norman. 

There may be other persons who have helped us, whose names through over- 
sight have been omitted, and in such cases we wish to offer our thanks and apologies. 

We trust that our efforts to bring before the people of New England historical 
material, much of which has never before been published, will be enjoyed and ap- 
preciated. Many celebrations will take place in New England during the next 
fifteen years, and while holding these anniversaries, let us not forget all we owe to 
the early settlers who endured such hardships when they left their homes and friends 
in England, Ireland and Scotland, to help found this Republic. To use again the 
Latin inscription on Governor Bradford's Monument on Burial Hill, which we have 
quoted under Plymouth: "Do not basely reUnquish what the Fathers with diffi- 
culty attained." 

Boston, 1920. 




From a plwtosraph by S. A . CharuUer &• Co., Southampton and Exeter, England Kindness Ian Forbes-Roherlson, F,s<i. 

PILGRIM FATHERS MEMORIAL, SOUTHAMPTON, ENGLAND, 

unveiled on Pilgrim Day, August 15, IQ13, by the American Ambassador, Hon. Walter Hines Page. The 
Pilgrims sailed first from this port, but were obliged to return to Dartmouth to make repairs on the 
"Speedwell." 




TOWNS of NEW ENGLAND 

and 

Old England, Ireland and Scotland 

PLYMOUTH AND SOUTHAMPTON 

"I hear the tread of pioneers, 
Of nations yet to be, 
The first low wash of waves where soon 
Shall roll a human sea." 

— WhiUier. 

)IVE kernels of parched corn per person comprised the Pil- 
grims' meal one day in the year 1623, when food became 
particularly scarce, and at the two hundred and fiftieth anni- 
versary of their landing in Plymouth the guests at the 
banquet were surprised to find for the first course this same 
scant allowance of provisions on each plate as a reminder of 
the hardships endured by their forefathers in order that this 
great nation might live. To Provincetown and to Plymouth many Ameri- 
cans, and also a goodly number of Englishmen and people of other nationalities, 
will journey this autumn and next summer to do honour to that courageous 
little band of pioneers who laid, in the new world, "the corner stone of a nation," 
to use the words of Longfellow. There have been many pilgrimages to the 
historic "Old World Shrines" in England and Holland, and there will be many 
more this year and in the years to come; and each year both America and England 
will hold in greater reverence the little village of Scrooby, where the Separatist 
movement had its inception, and where is situated the old Manor House in which 
was born WilKam Brewster, later called "Elder Brewster," the foremost planter of 
New Plymouth. On this old Brewster house is affixed a brass plate recording that 
this tablet was erected by the Pilgrim Society of Plymouth, Massachusetts, United 
States of America, " to mark the site of the ancient Manor House where lived William 
Brewster from 1588 to 1608, and where he organized the Pilgrim Church, of which 
he became a ruhng Elder, and with which in 1608 he removed to Amsterdam, in 
1609 to Leyden, and in 1620 to Plymouth, where he died April 10, 1644." 

From Scrooby the usual pilgrimage takes the visitor to the nearby village of 
Austerfield, where is to be found the cottage in which was born William Bradford, 



i8 PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 

the second Governor of our Plymouth, and the Historian of the Colony. At the 
early age of seventeen he used to walk across the fields to Scrooby to join his brethren 
in their meetings. A tablet in the Norman Church of Austerfield records that the 
aisle in which it was placed was built by the Society of Ma>^ower Descendants 
and other citizens of the United States "in memory of WilUam Bradford, who was 
born at Austerfield and baptised in this Church," on March ig, 1589. The quaint 
village of Gainsborough, the home of the Pilgrim Church, is another shrine, for here 
was the home for some time of John Robinson, the pastor of this Separatist Church, 
and the leader of this little flock that fled from Nottinghamshire into Holland. In 
the old Hall of this town the Church was founded in 1602, a more recent object of 
interest being the Robinson Memorial Church, the corner stone of which was laid 
by our Minister Hon. T. F. Bayard in 1896, the inscription reading: — 

To the 

Glory of God 

This stone, in memory of 

John Robinson, Pastor & Exile 

was laid on June 29, 1896 
by the Hon. T. F. Bayard, etc. etc. 

Another tablet was placed in the vestibule of this Church in 1902 to commemorate 
the three hundredth anniversary, and the wording on this is as follows: — 

This tablet unveiled June nth, 1902 
In the 300th year after the formation 
Of the Church in Gainsborough, with which 
The name of John Robinson is associated, 
Stands as a record of the co-operation of 
American with English Congregationausts 
In erecting a building to commemorate him 
The thought of whom stirs equal reverence 
In English and American hearts. 

At this dedication the Lord Lieutenant of the County of Lincoln quoted the pro- 
phetic words of our ISIinister James Russell Lowell, spoken at Wimbledon dur- 
ing a shooting competition between American and English marksmen, "If ever 
riflemen of both nations should be fated to meet in battle, may God grant that the 
rifles of both nations may be turned in the same direction." 

The scene of the Pilgrim wanderings now moves to old Boston, where seven of 
the principal "ofifenders" were imprisoned in the old Ciuildhall, another Mecca 
for tourists, especially from New England. Bradford fortunately was so young 
that he was allowed to depart. After a number of weeks all the prisoners were 
liberated, and sailed, as every one knows, to Amsterdam, some of the voyagers 
taking fourteen days on the journey; from Amsterdam they went to Leyden, where 
they Uved and worshipped for eleven years, and where John Robinson a short 
time afterwards succumbed, being buried in the Cathedral of St. Peter. A tablet 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 19 

was placed there to his memory in 1891, by the National Council of the Congre- 
gational Churches of the United States, and commemorates the fact that from 
there "at his prompting went forth the Pilgrim Fathers to settle in New England 
in 1620." A marble slab has also been placed on the building in which he lived, 
the inscription reading: — 

On this spot lived, taught and died, John Robinson 1611-1625. 

The committee appointed in Holland to celebrate the coming Pilgrim Anniversary 
will erect in his honour three memorial windows in this church ; also other memorials 
will be erected in honour of the Pilgrims during the coming year at Amsterdam, 
Rotterdam and Delfshaven. The departure of the band from the latter port in 
the "Speedwell" and their arrival in Southampton was their next move, Robinson 
bidding them adieu as they sailed off "to a salute of small shot and three 
pieces of ordnance." Was it not quite fitting that the Dutch, in whose country 
they had Hved so many years, should be the first nation to have its representa- 
tive, from New Netherlands in New York, make an official visit to this httle 
Pilgrim colony in the year 1627, which has gone down in history as its first diplo- 
matic experience. 

At Southampton they found the " Mayflower" at the West Quay waiting for 
them and near this spot in 1913 was unveiled by our Ambassador Page on Pilgrim 
Day, August 15 (N.S.) August 5 (O.S), the memorial shown in the cut on page 
16. 

IN GRATEFUL MEMORY OF 

THOSE Pilgrims of the "Mayflower" 

who crossed the Atlantic in the year 1620, 

and became the founders 

of the first of those settlements 

which afterwards developed into the colonies 

of New England 

This tablet is placed here by the 

Massachusetts Society of the Colonial Dames 

of America. 

Another tablet on the monument reads : — 

On the 15th of August 1620 

From the West Quay near this spot 

The famous Mayflower began her voyage 

Carrying the httle company of 

PILGRIM FATHERS 

Who were destined to be the founders 

of the New England States of America. 

Here the Pilgrims waited for a week while the " Speedwell" was being made ready 
for sea, and while in port they were joined by John Alden. The story of their 
return first to Dartmouth and then to Plymouth, where the "Speedwell" was finally 




From " flome ami ILiunts of the Fiigrim Fathen," liy Ait-iiuuitr .'\Lukt.nn.u, D .U . 

BARBICAN, PLYMOUTH, ENGLAND, 
where the "Mayflower" lay before sailing for the New World. On the wall on the left is placed the 
tablet shown in the cut on page 22. The two men in the center of the above picture are looking at the 
plate shown below. 








■jf nfi-: M 



From a photograph t iken for the State Street Trust C'-"): i> ; ti 



y^^m^- 



Kindness Ian Forbes- Robertson, Esq. 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 21 

abandoned, is too well known to mention. Of all the towns in the Old World Plym- 
outh in County Devon, England, will of course always remain the one for which 
New Englanders will have the warmest affection, and the particular place of interest 
there is the Barbican in Sutton Pool, now encumbered by the fishing nets, where 
the "Mayflower" lay while her consort was undergoing repairs. It was near here 
on the " Hoe," on the cliff's top overlooking the Barbican, that Drake said to Ad- 
miral Howard, after it had been reported to him while playing bowls that the Armada 
was entering the harbour, "There is plenty of time to win the game and beat the 
Spaniards too." The place where the "Mayflower" lay is recorded for all time by 
a huge stone firmly embedded in the paved causeway, into which is cut the one 
word " Mayflower" and the date " 1620." On the quay's wall a few feet away is 
another memorial — a bronze tablet inscribed as follows: — 

On the 6th of September 1620, in the Mayoralty of Thomas Fownes, 
after being ' ' kindly entertained and courteously used by divers 
Friends there dwelling," the Pilgrim Fathers sailed from 
Plymouth in the MAYFLOWER, in the Providence of God to 
settle in NEW PLYMOUTH, and to lay the Foundation 
of the NEW ENGLAND STATES— The ancient 
Cawsey whence they embarked was destroyed not many Years 
afterwards, but the Site of their Embarkation is marked by 
the Stone bearing the name of the MAYFLOWER in 
the pavement of the adjacent Pier. This Tablet was erected 
in the Mayoralty of J. T. Bond, 1891, to commemorate 
their Departure, and the visit to Plymouth in July 
of that Year of a number of their Descendants and 
Representatives. 

These memorials were unveiled in 1891 in the presence of many Englishmen, and 
also many Americans, who journeyed to England to witness the ceremony. The 
embarkation of the Pilgrims is shown in a painting in the House of Lords, London, 
an engraving of which hangs in Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, Massachusetts. 

The little vessel of 180 tons after a tempestuous voyage of sLxty-seven days, 
best described by these Hues of Dawes, cast anchor in Cape Cod Harbour, Prov- 
incetown, on November nth (O.S.): — 

"Nobly the Mayflower bows 
While the dark wave she plows 

On to the West; 
Till from the tempest's shock 
Proudly she lands her flock 
Where on old Plymouth Rock 

Freedom found rest." 

Often the httle ship could carry no sail whatever, and the constant strain bowed 
and cracked one of the main beams, and threatened to compel them to return to 
England, but fortunately the crew was able to repair the break. One hundred 



22 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 




F'«m a phnloerapk Hv llr.illi. P:ym,tulh 

TABLET AXD IXSCRTPTION ON THE WALL OF THE BARBICAN, PL^':\IOUTH, KXaLAND, 

rt-cordin;; the departure of the "Mayllower." 

and two (sometimes stated as one hundred and one) souls left Plymouth, England, 
and the same number reached our shores, though one of the original members died 
on the way over, for one new life came into being in Cape Cod Harbour, Peregrine 
White, the first Englishman born in New England; in Pilgrim Hall are many arti- 
cles used and worn by him. One of the passengers, John Howland, was washed 
overboard, but fortunately grabbed the topsail halyards and was hauled back on 
board the ship. Among the crew was a mariner described as being "proud and 
profane," who was always making fun of the misery of the passengers, and assailing 
them for being seasick, declaring that he hoped half of the passengers would die 
and that he might cast them overboard and "make mery" with their property. 
Of this incident a chronicler said, "It plased God before they came halfe seas over, 
to smite this yong man with a greeveous disease, of which he dyed in a desperate 
maner, and so was himself e ye first that was throwne overbord." We think of the 
"Mayflower" as having made this one voyage to New England, but she was the 
ocean packet of her day, plying continuously between this country and England; 
she was one of the four vessels that brought Higginson and his company to Salem in 




PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 



23 





From an old coloured print Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

• PLYMOUTH HOE, PLYMOUTH, ENGL.\XD, 
as it must have looked at the time of the sailing of the "Mayflower." 

1629, and was also one of Winthrop's fleet the following year. Her record after that 
cannot be traced, but she hailed, at different times in her career, from London, Yar- 
mouth and Southampton. Dr. Harris of Manchester, England, claims he has proof 
that she was used as a whale ship in the Greenland whale fishery up to the year 1654. 
It is a curious coincidence that the compact signed by the forty-one male mem- 
bers of the company was executed on November nth, now known as "Armistice 
Day." This compact and the names of the signers have been inscribed on a 
memorial tablet in the Town Hall yard at Provincetown, and on the front of the 
tablet appear these words: — 

This Memorial stone is erected by the 

Commonwealth of Massachusetts 

to commemorate the compact, or 

Constitution of Government, signed 

by the Pilgrims on board the 

Mayflower in Provincetown Harbor 

November nth, 1620, old style. 

It is interesting to know that the seal of Provincetown has a picture of the scroll, 
upon which the compact was recorded, and on it are these words: "Compact 



24 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 



.».»l5v»,.< -^y 



'^^^^}^^k^::^r-^ ^^^St^^^J^ 



(* Til! /Ml U^SAn rUZS * 



S5V 





Photographed for the State Slreet Trust Company ; . It 

TABLET PLACED NEAR THE SUPPOSED LANDING PLACE OF THE PILGRIMS, AT 
PROVINCETOWN, MASSACHUSETTS 

Nov. II, 1620. Birthplace of American Liberty." Another tablet, shown above, 
marks the supposed first landing place of the Pilgrims and is inscribed as follows: — 

THE FIRST LANDING PLACE 

of the 

PILGRIMS, NOV. II, 1620. O.S. 

The map in Mourts' relation 

Shows that near this spot 

THE PILGRIMS 

First touched foot on American soil 



Erected by the Research Club of Provincetown 
1017 

This same organization is also planning to place a memorial on a boulder in the 
oldest cemetery, in memory of the four Pilgrims who died while the "Maj'flower" 
was anchored in the harbour. There is still another inscription on a wooden marker 
at the foot of Town Hill, indicating the place where the first washing was done. 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 



25 



The gigantic Pilgrim Memorial 
Monument in Provincetown was 
dedicated in 1910 by President 
Taf t, the comer stone having been 
laid by President Roosevelt three 
years before. Miss Barbara Hoyt, 
a descendant of Elder Brewster, 
unveiled the tablet over the door 
facing the harbour, the inscription 
on it being as follows : — 

On November 21st, 1620 (N.S.), 
The Mayflower, carrying 102 passen- 
gers, men, women, and children, cast 
anchor in this harbor 67 days from 
Plymouth, England. 

On the same day the 41 adult males 
in the Company had solemnly cove- 
nanted and combined themselves to- 
gether "into a civil body poHtick." 

This body politic estabHshed and 
maintained on the bleak and barren 
edge of a vast wilderness a state 
without a king or a noble, a church 
without a bishop or a priest, a demo- 
cratic commonwealth the members of 
which were "straightly tied to all 
care of each other's good and of the 
whole by every one." 

With long-buffering devotion and 
sober resolution they illustrated for 
the first time in history the principles 
of civil and reUgious liberty and the 
practices of a genuine democracy. 

Therefore, the remembrance of 
them shall be perpetual in the vast re- 
public that has inherited their ideals. 

The British Ambassador was 
present at the laying of the corner 
stone in 1907. 

Congress has recently passed 
an appropriation to be used in 
impro\'ing the approach to this 
Provincetown monument, to make 
other suitable improvements, and 
to provide for a worthy celebration 
this autumn and next summer in 




Photographed for the State Street Trust Company 



PILGRIM MEMORIAL TOWER, TOWN HILL, 
PROVINCETOWN, MASSACHUSETTS, 

which is a landmark for many miles around, was erected 
to commemorate the landing of the Pilgrims at Cape Cod 
on the eleventh day of November, 1620; their anchoring in 
this harbour; the adoption in the cabin of the "Mayflower," 
on the day of the arrival, of the Compact of Government, 
the first charter of a democratic government in the world's 
history; the birth here of Peregrine White, the first white 
child born in New England; the death of Dorothy Bradford, 
the wife of William Bradford, afterward Governor of Plym- 
outh; the explorations in search of a place for permanent 
colonizations; and the entire train of events which preceded 
the settlement at Plymouth. In this monument are set 
stones from many Massachusetts towns which were founded, 
directly or indirectly, by these early Pilgrims who landed in 
Provincetown. 




Photonriiph Uikenjttr the State Street Trust Company By George B. Braylon 

PLYMOUTH ROCK, PLYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS, 

showing Cole's Hill, the Pilgrims' first burial ground, in the background. The bones of some of the 

Pilgrims are in the canopy over the rock. 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 27 

honour of the first landing place of the Pilgrims on New England shores, so well 
described by William Cullen Bryant in a poem sung at the celebration of the two 
hundred and fiftieth anniversary at Plymouth in 1870: — 

"Wild was the day; the wintry sea 
Moaned sadly on New England's strand, 
When first the thoughtful and the free. 
Our Fathers, trod the desert land." 

While at Provincetown some of the more adventurous of the Pilgrims explored 
along the inner shores towards Truro, which town is named after the English place 
of the same name, and encountered Indians several times. The account of their 
stay at Provincetown and their rough sail to Plymouth has been told many times, 
but it is not generally realized that this first voyage of investigation was made in 
a small shallop, and that later the explorers returned to Provincetown and advised 
their companions to bring the "Mayflower" to Plymouth, as being more suitable 
to their needs. It was on the 9th of December (O.S.) 19th (N.S.) that the Pil- 
grims in their shallop reached their new destination, but it was two days later, 
the nth of December (O.S.) 21st (N.S.), that historians agree the first landing 
party, called by Robert C. Winthrop "The Landing," stepped on Plymouth Rock, 
there being at the time a foot of snow on the ground. It is not always understood 
that there were many other landing parties on different days and also that many 
of the Pilgrims spent the whole winter on board the "Mayflower," there not being 
enough buildings for them, — buildings so well described by these lines: — 

"His home was a freezing cabin 
Too bare for the hungry rat; 
Its roof was thatched with ragged grass, 
And bald enough of that. 
The hole that served for a casement 
Was glazed with an ancient hat; 
And the ice was gently thawing, 
From the log whereon he sat." 

Hundreds of people from all over the world have visited this historic rock, which 
has been proved to be the real one, and which is regarded with more veneration 
than any other in the world. In 1775 it was decided to move it to Town Square 
as a defiance to the Tory element, as it was thought it would encourage the slackers 
during the war, but while trying to do so the stone spht in two and only half was 
ever placed there. In 1834 this half was again moved in front of Pilgrim Hall, 
the names of the forty-one signers of the compact of November nth being recorded 
on it; both pieces of the rock in 1880 were placed together under the canopy. It 
is proposed by the Tercentenary Committee to lower the rock to its original posi- 
tion at the time of the landing, by remo\'ing the wharf and restoring the shore line 
to its original shape. An interesting incident to mention was the transfer of the 
bones of four of the Pilgrims who died during the early days of the colony and who 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 




Photograph t,iken for the Slate Street Trust Compjny By Geo'ge B. Brayton 

PLYMOUTH ROCK 
This rock will be lowered to the position it was in at the time of the Landing. 

were buried in the first burial ground on Cole's Hill, which is directly opposite the 
rock and the landing place. These remains were dug up accidentally not long ago 
in making a road, and placed on Burial Hill, whence they were removed and are 
now in the chamber on top of the canopy over the rock. Some years later, in 1883, 
while grading Cole's Hill, other remains were discovered and reinterred at the 
place of their original burial, over which is a stone slab, suitably inscribed. In 
this first burial ground fifty Pilgrims were interred during the first year of the colony, 
reminding the visitor of the frightful hardships that resulted in the death of forty- 
four persons in the first months of December, January, February and March. At 
the top of the steps on Cole's Hill the \asitor can see a tablet which was placed 
there in 191 7 by the descendants of James Cole, in his memory. He was born in 
London in 1600, was the first settler on this hill, in 1633, and died in Pl>Tnouth in 
1692. It is hoped that funds will be provided to make a more suitable memorial 
of this hill, which will always be a hallowed spot for both Americans and English- 
men. It has been decided to place the statue of the Indian "King" Massasoit on 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 



29 







From *^ The Pilgrim Fathers,'" by Arthur Ball, Virtue br Co., London, 1853 

BURIAL HILL, PL\T\IOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 
The second burial ground of the Pilgrims. Governor Bradford's monument is shown at the left of the 

center of the picture. 

its summit. This hill was sown and continually levelled to conceal the awful loss 
of life both from the colonists and from the Indians. 

The most inspiring place in Plymouth is the second cemetery used by the Pil- 
grims, on Burial Hill, the First Cemetery in New England, so well described by 
Rev. John Pierpont in a poem read at the celebration at Plymouth on December 
22, 1824, part of which was as follows: — 

"The Pilgrim Fathers are at rest: 
When Summer's throned on high, 
And the world's warm breast is in verdure dressed, 
Go, stand on the hill where they lie; 
The earliest ray of the golden day 
On that hallowed spot is cast; 
And the evening sun as he leaves the world. 
Looks kindly on that spot last." 

Here are marked by oval stone slabs the old fort and also the watch house, which 
were placed on the hill for protection, the sites of which are marked but will prob- 
ably be made more discernible during this year. In this old cemetery are the 
Gov. WilUam Bradford monument, and for his sons two tombstones, no doubt 
brought from England like many of the others; here is the oldest grave stone, 
dated 1681, in memory of Edward Gray; here also is probably the oldest grave, 
that of John Howland, the last man of the "Ma^-flower" to die in Plymouth; the 
Cushman monument; and also many other graves of great interest, too numerous 
to mention. The First Church, which is situated at the foot of Burial Hill, records 
on a tablet at the entrance: — 




*^'- 



PILGRIM MOXUMEXT AT PLYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 



31 




i^p 




*--'-'rki 



r 



^^^^i^'^A 




> ? " ' J 



-»??■ 



milAe6Kr^>'yS' rr, -h«»;; -•"•V- •■ : . 

From a print in Pilgrim Ball, Plynwu:,;. Mi. gy George B. BrayUm 

REMAINS OF THE WRECK OF THE ENGLISH VESSEL "SPARROVVHAWK," 

wrecked off Orleans, Cape Cod, in 1626 and discovered in 1S63. The frame of the hull as seen above is now 
in Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, Massachusetts. This interesting relic was exhibited on Boston Common in 
1865. 

The Church of Scrooby, Leyden, and the Mayflower gathered on 
this hillside in 1620, has ever since preserved unbroken records and 
maintained a continuous ministry, its first covenant being still the 
basis of its fellowship. In reverent memory of its Pilgrim founders 
this fifth meetmg-house was erected A.D. MDCCCXCVII. 

Numerous windows in the church commemorate events connected with the history 
of the Pilgrims. 

The large Pilgrim monument at Plymouth to which eleven thousand persons 
contributed, was begun in 1859, but was not dedicated until 1889; on its sides are 
graphically portrayed the Departure of the Pilgrims from Delfshaven, the Signing 
of the Compact, the Landing, and the Treaty with Massasoit. The statue of 
Faith was contributed by the late Oliver Ames of Boston. The names of the pas- 
sengers are on the monument, and also an inscription stating that it is a "National 
Monument to the Forefathers erected by a grateful people in remembrance of their 
labors, sacrifices, and sufferings for the cause of civil and religious liberty." 

Pilgrim Hall, erected in memory of the Pilgrims, will be one of the great points 
of attraction during the approaching celebration; the corner stone was laid in 
1824, the hall itself being later rebuilt by J. H. Stickney, formerly of Baltimore, 
Maryland. In this building are a number of pictures of Plymouth, England, and 




J^.^^^^s?*, 



-•» V-?SiC 



-V . ><-. 



^^^S* 



Prom " The Pihrim Fathers" by A rthur Ball, Virtue b" Co., London, 1853 

LEYDEN STREET, PLYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS, 
as it looked about the middle of the nineteenth century. 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 33 

also many treasures in the way of curiosities that form interesting connecting links 
between the Old and New Worlds. In this hall is the frame of the "Sparrowhawk," 
one of the most interesting and wonderful relics in this country, which was exhib- 
ited in 1865 on Boston Common; this little English vessel, of about a quarter less 
tonnage than the "Mayflower " was wrecked off Orleans, on Cape Cod, six years 
after the "Mayflower" first came to this country, her company finding refuge in 
Plymouth, Massachusetts. The " Sparrowhawk" is the first English vessel known 
to have been stranded on Cape Cod. Two hundred and thirty-seven years later 
a violent storm revealed the frame, consisting of old ribs, which was dug up and 
presented to Pilgrim Hall by Charles W. Livermore of Providence, Rhode Island. 
The rudder was presented by John Doane. Other relics in the hall that are of 
particular interest are bricks from the wharf in Delf shaven, from which the "Speed- 
well" sailed; the departure of the "Mayflower" from Southampton, photographed 
from the picture in Town Hall, Southampton, England; portrait of Edward 
Winslow, probably painted by Robert Walker in London in 165 1, on one of 
Winslow's visits to England; Governor Bradford's Bible; the ancient sword of 
Miles Standish; the chair of Governor Winslow made in Cheapside, London, in 
1614; also the chairs of Elder Brewster and Governor Carver; a model of the 
"Mayflower," the construction of which was passed upon by Capt. R. B. Forbes 
of Boston. One of the many beautiful paintings is Charles Lucy's "Departure 
from Delf shaven," which won the first prize of one thousand guineas at an exhibi- 
tion in London. Other interesting relics are too numerous even to mention. 

Leyden Street, which runs from the shore near the rock to the foot of Burial 
Hill, was originally called First Street, and then known by the names of Great 
and Broad Streets; it was not called by its present name until 1823. 

"There first was heard the welcome stram 
Of axe and hammer, saw and plane." 

About one third of the way up the street on the left is the first, or common, house 
erected on the street, which bears an interesting inscription: — 

This tablet is erected by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts 

to mark the site of the first house built 

by the Pilgrims. In that house on 27 Feb. 

162 1 N.S. the right of popular suffrage was 

exercised and Miles Standish was chosen Captain by a 

majority vote. On or near this spot April i 1621 

the memorable treaty with Massasoit was made. 

Another fact of interest to both Americans and Britons was the return in 1897 by 
Rt. Rev. Mandell Creighton, Bishop of London, of the original history of the 
Pl>Tiiouth Plantation, written by William Bradford, which is now in the Massa- 
chusetts State Library, the gift having been made through Minister Bayard. 

One would suppose there would have been many more connecting links between 



34 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 




r„[)lt l.ikcnjoT llu Sl,ile 



f'uny 



By George B. Brayton 



TRESEXT VIEW OF LEYDEN STREET, 
showing site of the first house in Plymouth, Mass;ichusetts, where Miles Standish was chosen Captain Febru- 
ary 27, 1621. This street was originally called First Street and later by thenamesof Great and Broad Streets. 
It was named I.eyden Street in 18:3. A copy of the inscrijition on this house is shown on page a. 



the two Plymouths, but the fact that the Pilgrims sailed from the English town of 
this name seems to have been sufficient to keep alive the friendship between the 
two places. There have been a number of visits of prominent persons to our 
Plymouth, chief of which perhaps was that of The Lord Bishop of Winchester, Rt. 
Rev. Ethelbert Talbot, who laid the corner stone of the new Christ Church in our 
Plymouth in 1912. At another celebration held in 1853 an invitation was sent to 
the Pastor of the Pilgrim Church at Southwark, London, but his extreme age pre- 
vented his acceptance; an interesting letter, however, was received from the Burgo- 
master, Aldermen and Councillors of Delfshaven, Netherlands. During the fes- 
tivities, English and Dutch flags were flown beside that of our country. 

Few people, we believe, know that Plymouth was not named by the Pilgrims, 
but was so called by Prince Charles (afterwards Charles the Second) and placed 
by Capt. John Smith on his map si.x years before, while he was in command of an 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 




From "Pilgrim Fathers; or The Founders of New England in the Reign of Jarms the Firsl." hy W. H. BartleJt 

DELFSHAVEN, HOLLAND, 

the port from which the Pilgrims sailed for Southampton, England, just previous to their voyage to New 

England. 

expedition fitted out under the patronage of Sir Ferdinand© Gorges, who was the 
governor of the castle in old Plymouth. Another curious fact is that the word 
"Pilgrim" was not used in connection with these early Plymouth settlers until 
about one himdred and seventy years after the landing. 

The relation of the Indians to the pioneers at Plymouth will always be of great 
interest, and from these well-known lines it would appear as if the settlers were 
in constant fear of attacks : — 

"So once, for fear of Indian beating, 
Our grandsires bore their guns to meeting; 
Each man equipped on Sunday morn 
With psalm book, shot, and powder horn, 
And looked in form as all must grant. 
Like th' ancient true church mihtant, 
Or fierce like modern deep divines. 
Who fight with quUls like porcupines." 

{From Coffin's History.) 



36 PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 

The most remarkable event in this connection occurred in the following March, 
when some of the colony met the Indian Samoset, who saluted them in good EngUsh 
and bade them welcome. This chief was one of the five Indians taken to London 
by Captain Wa>mouth a few years before, and while there he had picked up some 
of the language. On this occasion at Plymouth the Pilgrims entertained Samoset 
a day and gave him presents, and a few days later he returned with his friend 
Squanto, who had lived in Cornhill, London, and who always remained on friendly 
terms with the colonists. The great Sagamore Massasoit also came at the same 
time and made friends with the EngHshmen, and on the first Thanksgiving in the 
New World he and some of his redskins were guests of the Pilgrims, a scene which 
has been depicted in a painting in Pilgrim Hall. This friendship between IMas- 
sasoit and the colonists was further strengthened by Edward Winslow, when at 
Bristol, Rhode Island, he visited the Indian "King," who was desperately ill, though 
able to grasp the Englishman's hand and to say, "O Winslow, I shall never see thee 
again." Medicine was administered and he recovered, remaining always a firm 
friend of the Englishmen. Winslow in addition to his other good quahties is de- 
scribed as being a splendid horseman, for a story is told of him that while attend- 
ing a "Saquish" in Plymouth Harbour with two friends he fell asleep, and when 
he woke up, to his surprise he found that his friends had ridden away, and that 
the tide had risen. He is said to have swum his horse across the channel, where- 
upon he took a short cut, and had a bowl of punch ready to greet his fellow country- 
men when they arrived somewhat later. 

Visitors to the Tercentenary will also visit the nearby attractive town of Dux- 
bury, the home of Miles Standish, so called for Duxbury Hall in Lancashire, Eng- 
land, the home of his ancestors, and they will also visit the Standish Monument, 
his grave, and his spring. 

As the pilgrims of 1920 stand on Cole's Hill or Burial Hill and gaze at Plymouth 
Harbour, let them remember that three hundred years before, when the "May- 
flower," on April 5, 162 1, after one hundred and ten days' stay, returned to Eng- 
land, not one passenger went back in her, not one soul that would not refuse to 
exchange the hardships in the New World for the luxuries and comforts in the Old 
World; and let the "modern pilgrims" make a vow to preserve the honour and 
integrity of this country, given to us by our English ancestors through such un- 
tiring determination. In the words of the Latin inscription on Governor Brad- 
ford's monument on Burial Hill: "Do not basely relinquish what the Fathers with 
difficulty attained." 

We shall always esteem the people of old Plymouth, who, we are told, showed 
every kindness to these strangers within their gates, for curiously enough not 
one of those on the "Mayflower" hailed from there. Since the Pilgrims sailed 
there have been many changes in this attractive English port, often called "the 
deep-sea Venice," but there still exists the old church of St. Andrew, the massive 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 



37 




Photograph CO pyrigliied International Film Service 



From the "Landmark," the ^}agazine of the English-Speaking Union 



THE ARRIVAL OF THE N. C. 4 AT PLYMOUTH, ENGLAND 

The reception of the airmen of the N. C. 4 at the Barbican, where they were greeted by the Mayor stand- 
ing on the "Mayflower Stone" from which the Pilgrim Fathers sailed in 1620. Commander Read is on 
the left of the line of airmen, nearest the Mayor. The N. C. 4 made the first air flight across the 
Atlantic, stopping at the Azores, and at Lisbon. Portugal, finally landing in Plymouth Harbour, England. 

tower of which was built in 1460; and there is also standing part of the old castle, 
a dead remnant of the past, which gave hospitahty to the Pilgrims; the advanced 
part of this fortress is called the Barbican, from which the "Mayflower" sailed. 
The old Hoe Gate, through which the voyagers to the New World must have passed, 
was unfortunately demolished in 1863. The Guildhall has many stained glass 
windows depicting scenes in Plymouth's history, one of which represents "The 
Departure of the Pilgrims." 

From this same port sailed several of the Raleigh expeditions to colonize Vir- 
ginia, which was at that time called Raleana; from there also in 1603 set sail the 
Gilbert explorers to Chesapeake Bay; and into this harbour returned Gosnold, 
Waymouth, and the Popham colony; from there, too, in 1572 Drake set out on his 
famous voyage; and also many fishermen sailed from this port to the New England 
coast in the early days. The most recent event of universal importance was the 
transatlantic flight of Commander Read of the American Navy, in his biplane 
N. C. 4, from HaUfax to Plymouth, England, with stops on the way. With him 



38 PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 

was James L. Breese of New York. Off the breakwater of the English port, Read 
and his crew were escorted into the harbour by British seaplanes flying the Stars 
and Stripes and the Union Jack. It was a dramatic coincidence that Plymouth 
should have been chosen for the landing, and it was still more dramatic that the 
Mayor of Plymouth should have received the American airmen on the Barbican 
on the exact spot from which the "Maj^lower" sailed two hundred and ninety- 
nine years before on a voyage of quite a different character. It is no wonder that 
sailors are especially fond of this port, which has meant so much in the history of 
the two worlds, and they have many songs that tell of " their dear Plymouth town" 
and their "dear Plymouth sound." These few lines written by Drayton also call 
to mind the importance of this seaport: — 

"Upwn the British coast, what ship yet ever came 
That not of Plymouth heares? where those brave 

Navies Ue, 
From Canon's thund'ring throats that all the world 

defie?" 

This seaport on the river Plym, from which it gets its name, is well described in 
these words of Carrington : — 

' ' How oft by Fancy led, 
Sweet Plym, at mom or eve, I stray with thee: 
But chief at shadowy eve, I linger where 
The ocean weds thee, and delighted view, 
Proud rising o'er the vast Atlantic surge. 
Thine own, — thy Plymouth, — nurse of heroes — her 
Who bears thy noble name." 

Plymouth was called by the Saxons, Tameorworth, and later on it became 
known as Sutton, or South Town. In the time of Queen Elizabeth it became the 
chief port of England, and Devonshire became the most important county. 

The latest exchange of greetings between Plymouth, England, and PljTnouth, 
Massachusetts, took place June 24, 1920, when A. N. Hollely, official representa- 
tive of PlvTTiouth, England, after being conducted to Plymouth Rock where he 
was formally welcomed, and then proceeding to the Town Square, presented to 
the Board of Selectmen of the Massachusetts town the following set of resolu- 
tions commemorating the Tercentenary: — 

"DuNSTAN, Mayor 

At a meeting of the Council of the Borough of Plymouth held on Monday, the 12th 
day of April, 1920. 

We, the Mayor, Aldermen and Bxjrgesses of the Borough of Plymouth in 
Council assembled send sincere and hearty greetings to the Selectmen, Pl\-mocth, Mas- 
sachusetts, United States of America, on the occasion of the Tercentenary of the Sail- 
ing of the Mayflower from the Barbican, Plymouth, England. 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 



39 




From a print tncnfd by a Boston collector Formerly in the collection of J. B. Seers, Essex, England 

THE WALLS OF SOUTHAMPTON, ENGLAND 



Our records show that 'on this 6th day of September, 1620,' during the Mayority of 
Thomas Townes, after being kindly entertained and courteously used by divers friends 
there dwelling the Pilgrim Fathers sailed from Plj-mouth in the Mayflower in the provi- 
dence of God to settle in New Plymouth and to lay the foundation of the New England 
States. 

Even before the sailing of the Mayflower many expeditions sailed from this ancient 
Borough on voyages of discovery, notably in 1562-4-6-7 Sir John Hawkins to the West 
Indies; in 1570 Sir Humphrey Gilbert to North America; in 1575 John Oxenham to 
Mexico; in 1577 Sir Francis Drake in the Pehcan on his tour of circumnavigation; in 
1583 Sir Humphrey Gilbert to Newfoundland, and Sir Richard GrenvUle to Virginia; in 
1587 Sir Walter Raleigh's expedition to Virginia under John White, and in 1607 the first 
settlers in New England who landed at the mouth of the Kennebec. 

Coming to recent times, your late ambassador. Dr. W. Hines Page, an Honorary 
Freeman of Plymouth, made his great pronouncement in the Plymouth Guildhall, on the 
third anniversary of the declaration of war, with reference to the glorious entry of the 
United States into the war for the freedom of the world. 

With great satisfaction we recall that during the war Plymouth was an American 
naval base of considerable importance. 

Last year we had the honour of welcoming at the historic Barbican your Seaplane the 
NC 4, on the completion of the first Transatlantic Flight. 

We rejoice to have this opportunity of giving expression to the feelings of friendship 
and goodwill which have for so long bound together our two countries, and to express the 
confident hope that our historical associations will ever be cherished to the great advantage 
of both nations. 



40 



PLYMOUTH and SOUTHAMPTON 



In conclusion we hail our sister town of New Plymouth, and hope that her future may 
be one of unbroken peace and prosperity. 

Given under our Corporate 

Common Seal — Lovell R. Dunstan, Mayor. 

E. J. LiTTALS, Tou'n Clerk." 

This greeting, in a handsome gilt frame, is now in the historic old town house 
of Plymouth, Massachusetts. 

There are two other Plymouths in New England — one in Maine and one in 
Vermont— the latter being the birthplace of Hon. Calvin Coolidge, Governor of 
Massachusetts. 

Southampton is an ancient walled town on the Test and Itchen Rivers, the latter 

the river of Izaak Walton. On every side 
the "modem pilgrim" sees relics of the past, 
for part of the old wall built in 1338 that 
once enclosed the town is still intact, and 
the West Gate leading down to the quay 
from which the "Mayflower" sailed looks 
much the same as it did in 1620 when the 
Pilgrims passed through it, which they must 
have done many times during their sojourn 
there. Bar Gate, a marvelous relic of olden 
times, has been restored and now bears a 
statue of King George HI arrayed, oddly 
enough, as a Roman emperor. The "May- 
flower" and the "Speedwell" sailed past the 
platform with its battery of guns, past Net- 
ley Castle, where the Earl of Hertford enter- 
tained Queen Elizabeth, and then into the 
Solent, past Hurst Castle and the Needles 
into the Channel. The old castle of South- 
ampton, where long ago King Stephen 
reigned, has long since gone, but the ruins 
are carefully preserved. 

Southampton has always been a great 
seaport, but its most romantic trade oc- 
curred during the thirteenth, fourteenth, 
fifteenth and part of the sixteenth cen- 
turies, when the Venetians brought spices, Indian cotton, silks and other 
corrmiodities to this port. These expeditions were organized by the Venetian 
Senate, and the voyages were made in galleys procured in Flanders, with which 




From an oid print Kindness Ian Forbes- Robertson, Esq. 

WEST G.\TE, SOUTHAMPTON, 
ENGL.VXD 
The Pilgrims must ha\'e passed through this 
gate in order to board the "Mayflower." 



II 



■^1 






H 










From iin old print 



Kindness Captain Arthur B. Clark 



WATER GATE, SOUTHAMPTON, ENGLAND 



42 PLYMOUTH atul SOUTHAMPTON 

country they ako traded. Indeed in the Middle Ages Southampton presented 
a cosmopolitan appearance, for there were seen many Normans, Gascons and 
Flemings, as well as Venetians. At the time of the survey, many French settled 
there, and French Street still recalls these days to the passerby. The history of 
this city, which will always be of the greatest interest to Americans, goes back 
to the third century, when it was called Clausentum; in 837 the Danes were 
repulsed, and in 840 Ethelwulf dated a charter from the "Royal town called 
Hamtun," his successors referring to it as the "celebrated place called Heamtun," 
which shows how important it was in the ninth century. The first authentic 
records in Saxon times call the place "Old Hamptun," the word meaning 'home 
town." In 962 it was named "Suthamtun," or " Suth-hamtim," to distinguish 
it from Northampton, as in our State of Massachusetts we have a Southampton, 
settled in 1732, which formerly was part of Northampton. Some historians refer 
to the English port as " Storied Southampton," as the place is so rich in history, 
legends and traditions. 

Here King Alfred carried on his shipbuilding operations; here Canute was 
chosen king; here was the port of communication between the Norman and Eng- 
lish courts; here Earl Godwin and his son, Harold, owned manors; from here also 
John of Gaunt sailed on his expedition to Brittany, returning also to the same 
port; here too Henry V assembled his fleet for an expedition to France; and here 
used to come many of the people of Charlemagne's court. Here Artemus Ward 
died and here also lies buried Edward A. Sothern, the actor, father of the well-known 
Edward H. Sothern of the present day. It is interesting to know that many 
of our New England soldiers composing the 26th (Yankee) Division stopped here 
on the way to France in 191 7. In the eighteenth century the place became a fash- 
ionable seaside resort, and assembly rooms similar to those at Bath were built. 
At the present time the city has a big population and large suburbs, and is in a 
flourishing condition. 

There is a town of Hampton in New Hampshire, said to be named for the English 
place at the request of Rev. Stephen Bachiler, whose last English living was the 
vicarage of St. Mary's in South Stoneham, near Southampton. The town of South- 
ampton on Long Island, undoubtedly named after the English one, was formerly 
included in the State of Connecticut, this island being once owned by this New 
England State. 

"I heard, or seemed to hear, the chiding sea 
Say: 'Pilgrim, why so late and slow to come? 
Am I not always here, thy summer home? ' " 

— Emerson. 



43 



ANDOVER, MASSACHUSETTS 

"For our own Andover so old, and yet so young today, 
Who ever to the Mother will loving homage pay. 
To an old Borough on the Ande is namesake, mental heir. 
Which Saxon men called Andover in English Hampshire Fair." 

(Part of Poem "Historic Andover," by Annie Sawyer Downs, read at the 250th Anniversar>' of our 
Andover in i8g6.) 

DURING the Great War a well-known Major in the American Army, who 
hailed from Andover, Massachusetts, after being taken up in the air on 
a pleasure spin in England, was landed some distance from his camp, 
whereupon he set out to walk back. He read the nearest sign board and almost 
believed he was near his own home, when, to his surprise, he saw on it "Andover," 
and also the name of another town nearly as well known to him in this country. 
This officer was still more surprised to receive on Christmas Day presents of tobacco 
and other useful articles sent by Andover, England, and by Brechin, Scotland, 
to him and to all our Andover boys who could be found either in or behind the 
trenches in France. In welcoming our men in this way, the town of Brechin, 
not far from Aberdeen in Scotland, especially shared, for between our Andover and 
this Scotch town there have always existed very strong ties, owing to the fact that 
many of the settlers in our Andover during the nineteenth century came direct 
from Brechin. From there came the original John Smith in 1816, and, after some 
other ventures, started in 1836, with his 
brother Peter and John Dove, a flax mill in 
our Andover. All three of these men were 
natives of Brechin, and they induced many 
other people of that town to come to 
Andover, Massachusetts, as operatives in 
their mill. The business is now conducted 
under the name of the Smith and Dove 
Company, carried on principally by Mr. 
George F. Smith, grandson of the pioneer, 
John Smith. They also gave to Andover 
Theological Seminary in 1865, a library, 
which was named Brechin Hall, after their 
birthplace. This building is now the ad- 
ministration center of Phillips Academy and 
is probably the most conspicuous structure 
on Andover Hill. Brechin Terrace, a short 
street in another section of the town, is a 
center for Scotch mill operatives, and is also 
named after the Scotch town. 




From a photograph of piitu.^ .;: An Old N.E. School." 
by Claude M . fuess, Esq. 

Kindness Claude M . Fuess, Esq. 

BRECHIN H.\LL, 

Andover Theological Seminary, 
Andover, Massachusetts, 



presented in 1865 by residents of Andover, 
Massachusetts, whose ancestors had come to 
this town from Brechin, Scotland. 




Pholiigrjph Idken by F. l-'rilli t' Ca . Ii:: II I Km'-: r' ihn-RnbcrlMn.Eso. 

UPPER CLATFORD VILLAGE, NEAR AXDOVER, ENGLAND 
A picturesque bit of old English village life. 




■ Co., England ' luess Ijn FiirbesRuficrt^iin.Esq. 

CHANCERY STREET, ANDOVER, ENGLAND 



ANDOVER, MASSACHUSETTS 45 

Our town and Brechin have for years been in constant communication, and dur- 
ing the World War many gifts were sent from Andover, Massachusetts, to Brechin, 
Scotland, including cigarettes, candy and clothing to be distributed among the 
Scotch soldiers. The relationship between the two towns is still very close, owing 
mainly to the fact that our Andover people have many near relatives in Brechin. 

In May of 191 7, Mayor F. W. Bingham of Andover, England, sent the fraternal 
greetings of his ancient borough upon the entry of America into the war of Liberty; 
this letter was addressed to "The Chief Citizen" and was handed to Harry M. 
Eames, Esq., Chairman of the Board of Selectmen of our Andover. This note 
was followed by further correspondence, most of which was published in the "An- 
dover Townsman," together with extracts from the minutes of the quarterly meet- 
ing of the Town Council of old Andover, where the reply of Mr. Eames was read, 
describing the patriotism of our town in endeavoring to prosecute the war to a suc- 
cessful ending. The "Andover Townsman" in October, 191 7, printed a letter 
written by a citizen of our town to the English town and we reproduce part of it, 
as it gives us an excellent idea of the early history of our Andover:- — 

"As most of our older citizens are descendants of British emigrants of two centuries 
or more ago, I need not say that under the conditions of the present war, our town, like 
all other towns of our New England, is enthusiastically on the side of our mother country 
in its war against the Prussian monarchy. ... I notice (in the ancient Andover, Eng., 
pamphlet) the name of John Abbot. That name is of interest here as one of our early 
settlers, the town having been full of Abbots and Abbotts ever since, some of them very 
prominent in literary and other lines. It is understood that the name Andover was given 
to the town because some of the old settlers had hailed from your Andover, but I do not 
think it has ever been authentically understood as to the identity of these Andover emi- 
grants. Chandler, Holt, Stevens, Russell are also old names of our Andover. . . .'' 

Gratification was expressed in the Council of the English town that of the eight 
American Andovers to whom the Mayor had written, the Massachusetts town was 
the first to respond. One member remarked that it was "extremely interesting to 
know that the name of their small community should be the source and origin of 
so many other towns in the American Republic." Another said that the greet- 
ings from our Andover would be of great interest to them and their children in 
years to come. 

In 1634 some inhabitants of Newtowne (Cambridge) complained of lack of land, 
and desired leave to investigate other territory. They looked with favor upon the 
property along the Merrimack and Agawam Rivers and their wish was granted 
the following year, the Court ordering "that the land about Cochichewick shall 
be reserved for a plantation." This property was soon purchased from the Indians 
for six pounds and a coat, by John Woodbridge of Newbury, the first minister of 
Andover, who was probably assisted by Edmund Faulkner. The purchase was 
confirmed by the Court in 1646, and the town was incorporated as Andover, so 
named for some of the planters, who came from Andover in Hampshire County, 



46 ANDOVER, MASSACHUSETTS 

England, the names of Holt, Abbot, Stevens, Poor and Chandler being known in 

both Andovers. The names of other early settlers were found on the town records 

in our old style of handwriting, and were Simon Bradstreet, the most influential 

person in the plantation, and usually referred to as "the worshipful Mr. Simon 

Bradstreet," John Osgood, Joseph Parker, Richard Barker, John Stevens, Benjamin 

Woodbridge, John Frye, Edmund Faulkner, Robert Barnard, Nathan Parker, 

Henry Jaques, Richard Blake, John Lovejoy and others. 

There is an English proverb relating to four English towns in Hampshire County, 

reading as follows: — 

Romsey in the mud, 
Southampton on the stones, 
Winchester cats the meat, 
Andover picks the bones. 

The ancient borough and market town of Andover is situated in Hants County 
on the river Anton, the word Andover being derived from the Celtic "An," meaning 
spring, and "dour" or "dever" of similar significance. The discoveries there, in- 
cluding a number of tools and weapons, testify to the size of the population which 
lived there a thousand years before the advent of the Romans. 

The romantic history of King Edgar's marriage with Elfrida occurred in An- 
dover; he had heard of Elfrida's beauty, and sent Ethelwold to woo the lady for 
him, but she fell in love with the King's emissary, and concealing the facts from 
the King, they married; Ethelwold meanwhile reported to the King that Elfrida 
was a very ordinary person, but the King evidently discovered the treachery and, 
one day while hunting, Edgar slew Ethelwold by piercing him through the back, 
and Elfrida then became the wife of her husband's murderer. At Dead Man's 
Plack, a lonely place close to Andover, is a monument which marks the spot of this 
tragedy. 

There are also Andovers in Maine, New Hampshire, Connecticut and Vermont. 



BARNSTABLE, MASSACHUSETTS 

THE Barnstable Church was organized in London in 1616, then went to 
Holland, came over the seas to Scituate, Massachusetts, in 1634, and 
then moved to Barnstable on Cape Cod five years later. The three 
hundredth anniversary of the founding of this First Congregational Church in 
London was celebrated in our town in 191 6, on which occasion there was unveiled 
a memorial tablet that was placed on the side of a stone monument made of frag- 
ments of the former Sacrament Rock, which had been scattered in years gone by. 
This memorial is about a mile and a half west of the Court House on the main road 
to West Barnstable, and the inscription reads as follows:^ 



BARNSTABLE, MASSACHUSETTS 



47 




From a photograph Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

THE PARISH CHURCH OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL, BARNSTAPLE, ENGLAND 

showing St. Anne's Chapel on the right. The spire of the church leans over to one side and the bells hang 
on the outside of the steeple. 



1639 

at this rock 

now in fragments 

tr.\dition reports that 

The Settlers of Barnstable 

received the sacrament 

for the first time 

in their new abode 

AND HELD 

THEIR FIRST TOWN MEETING 

TfflS TABLET TO THEIR MEMORY 

WAS SET UP 

I 9 I 6 

It is believed that the first sacrament was administered on the spot where this 
rock is situated, and that the first town meeting was also held there. 

The site of the first meeting house adjoins the old burying ground on what is 
now known as Lothrop's Hill about one mile west of the court house, and it has 
been suggested that a tablet be placed there to record this fact. The land of 




From '^ Piwtograpkic Views of Barnstaple and Sortk Devon,'^ publislied by Sydney 
Harper & Sons, Barnstaple, England 



Kindness Waller K. Walkins, Esi]. 

BARNSTAPLE, ENGLAND, SHOWING THE BRIDGE 




From ii print 



y -Vf . IluUhings, Esq. 



SACRAMENT ROCK., BARNSTAHLK, MASSACHUSETTS 



At this rock in 1639 the first settlers of Barnstable received the sacrament and held the first town meeting. 

It is on the main road to West Barnstable. 



BARNSTABLE, MASSACHUSETTS 49 

which this site is a part was for many years owned by Captain Matthias Hinckley, 
a well-known packet master of Barnstable. The property now belongs to his 
grandson Henry M. Hutchings, Esq. The weathercock on the steeple of the 
present Unitarian Church building, it is believed, was made in England and was 
placed upon the steeple of the church building that was standing in 1723. At the 
time of the fire in 1905 which destroyed the building prior to the present edifice, 
this weathercock fell to the ground but was not destroyed, and was later placed 
upon the present meeting house. In this church there was erected in 1907 a 
tablet to the first minister of the Barnstable Church, the Rev. John Lothrop, the 
inscription written by Rev. Edward Everett Hale reading as follows: — 

1639 

REV. JOHN LOTHROP 

WAS THE 

FIRST MINISTER OF THE BARNSTABLE CHURCH 

HE HAD BEEN THE MINISTER OF THE 

FIRST INDEPENDENT CONGREGATION IN 

ENGLAND 

HE WAS IMPRISONED FOR THIS SERVICE 

BY ARCHBISHOP LAUD IN LONDON 

FOR TWO YEARS 

HE WAS RELEASED BY THE KING IN 1 634 

THAT HE MIGHT GO INTO EXILE 

HE WAS BORN IN 1 584 

HE DIED AND WAS BURIED IN BARNSTABLE 

NOVEMBER 8, 1653 

A FAITHFUL WITNESS AND MINISTER 

I Q O 7 

Among Other families that went to Barnstable with the Rev. John Lothrop, or 
soon after, were the Annables, Bacons, Bournes, Cobbs, Hinckleys and Crockers. 
Lothrop was released on condition that he should leave the country, and he there- 
fore sailed for Boston in 1634 whence he proceeded to Scituate and thence to Barn- 
stable. He died in the house which is now incorporated in the building called the 
"Sturgis Library," in which house was born Captain William Sturgis, the well- 
known Boston merchant, who presented this building for use as a library and 
estabhshed a trust fund for its maintenance. The papers necessary to carry out 
this gift were executed by him only a few days before his sudden death. 

It will be noticed that the English spell the name of the town "Barnstaple" 
whereas our way of spelhng it is "Barnstable," yet, despite this difference there 
is no doubt that the New England town was named after the one in the romantic 
county of Devon on the river Taw. A curious thing about the older town is that 
many of the natives speak of it as " Barum," for what reason we have not been able 
to learn. The English Barnstaple, which is one of England's seaports, dates back to 
the year 925, when Athelstan came there in an attempt to drive the British out of 



so BARNSTABLE, MASSACHUSETTS 

what was then called "Damnonia." The ancient Britons called the place Tunge 
Abertawe, and the Saxons called it Berdenstaple. 

The parish church of Barnstaple is in the heart of the town and is supposed to 
be the oldest building there, having been dedicated in 13 18 to St. Peter and St. 
Paul. Its spire is considered one of the finest examples of such architecture in 
England. There are two unusual things connected with this church, — in the first 
place the spire leans over to one side, and in the second place its bells hang on the 
outside of the spire. 

Many burgesses throve in this town on account of the newly discovered tobacco 
trade with Maryland and Virginia, and thereby became rich enough to build many 
large, handsome houses. For more than a thousand years Barnstaple has been 
famous for its pottery, called " Royal Barum Ware." Shakespeare is said to have 
visited the town during one of his theatrical tours. The annual fairs are events of 
great importance in both the American and English towns. A traveler to the 
mother town notices the singular similarity of the two harbours, especially at 
low tide. 

BATH, MAINE 

THE "Maine Gazetteer" states that Bath was named in 1781 by Col. Dum- 
mer Sewall, then a member of the General Court of Massachusetts, after 
Bath on the English Avon. His great-great-grandson, Harold M. Sewall, 
Esq., suggests that this name may have been chosen because of the hymn called 
Bath, a favorite in the hymn book of the early settlers. Certain it is that this 
frontier settlement presented not the slightest resemblance to the most fashionable 
spa of Europe. None of the settlers came from there, and the ships of our Bath 
had not yet begun to visit the older city's port of Bristol. Bath, England, has 
taken a great deal of interest in her namesake. About fifteen years ago Mr. Sewall 
attended a literary celebration in Bath, England, taking with him a letter from the 
Mayor, and was received with great consideration by the authorities in the old 
city. Later the Mayor of the English city requested that a committee be named 
from all the American Baths, of which there are about twenty-five, and Mr. 
Sewall was appointed a delegate and is still a member of this committee. In 
July, 1909, a great historical pageant was held in the English Bath, and each of the 
American Baths was requested to send a girl representative, many of the towns of 
this name responding. During the pageant a scene was arranged showing the 
introduction of the different towns in the New World to their English mother, and 
we quote a few lines of this interesting ceremony: — 

"The Ladye Bath," who personifies the City, now makes her way to the Throne, which is set in the 
centre, to receive the 

HOM.VOE I'ROM THE WESTERN WORLD 

By her side is the Swordbearer and a soldier with the British flag. Two maidens representing the Canadian 
Baths in Ontario and New Brunswick approach Mother Bath, while the Canadian Anthem, "O Canada," 
is sung. 



BATH, MAINE 



51 



Lad YE Bath. 

Welcome! dear Daughters of brave Canada; 
All honour to that loyal-hearted land. 

A procession approaches of silver-clad maidens, special envoys from the United States, in the dress 
of the Statue of Liberty, led by heralds and pages carrying banners with the arms of the States of Maine, 
New York, Illinois, New Hampshire, North CaroUna, South Carolina, South Dakota, Ohio, Kentucky, 
Missouri, Pennsylvania, Michigan. The band plays "The Star Spangled Banner." 

Ladye Bath. 

Hark ! 'Tis the coming of the white-robed Maids, 
Your neighbours in that wondrous Western World. 
Daughters of England, stand at our right hand 
The while we give them greeting to our shores. 

Ladye Bath comes forward with outstretched arms. The Maidens from the United States of .America 
raise their banners simultaneously and advance towards Ladye Bath: as they approach they lower their 
banners and courtesy to Ladye Bath. 

Ladye Bath. 

Illustrious Maidens of America, 
We welcome you to England and to Bath. 
The lintels of our doors are wreathed for you. 
The bread is broken, and your place prepared. 

One of the Maidens. 

Ladye, we thank thee for thy courtesy. 
O'er the wide way of the unfathomed sea 
We come to bring thee homage from our land. 
And share thy tryst with mighty memories. 
Strangers we come — to find within thy gates 
An open-hearted hospitality. 

Lady's Bath. 

God is the Father of all folk on earth. 
These words of the great Alfred, England's king. 
Counsel his sons and daughters to forget 
Man's sharp dividing in God's unity; 
Wherefore you are not strangers; we are kin. 

Immediately after the foregoing words of Ladye Bath, the chorus sings 
the National Air common to Great Britain and the United States. 

An interchange between the two cities occurred at the 
three hundredth anniversary of American shipbuilding, 
which was held in our Bath in 1907, and on this occasion 
the Mayor of the English city cabled his greeting. 
An ode to the sailing ship of the old days, written by 
W. Clark Russell, Esq., the novelist of Bath, England, 
was read on this occasion, accompanied by a letter to 
Mr. Sewall in which were these words: — 

"I was cradled in wood when I came from New York 
to Liverpool at the age of si.x months. I also served in 
wood for eight years in frigate-like ships built at Sunder- 
land. I shall be launched with most others on the sea of 
eternity in that odd Uttle dug-out called a coffin. 




From _ "The Be>:initings of Colonial 

Maine," by Henry S. Burroge, D.D., 

Historian of Maine 

SIR JOHN AND LADY POP- 
HAM MONUMENT IN THE 
PARISH CHURCH, WELI^ 
INGTON, ENGLAND 

Sir John Popham was Chief 
Justice of England and helped 
to encourage many of the early 
voyages of exploration to Maine. 
He was an uncle of George 
Popham, who established on 
the peninsula of Sabino, at 
the mouth of the Kennebec, the 
first English colony on the 
shores of New England. 



52 



BATH, MAINE 



"Wood has played a large part in my life and this forthcoming Trans-Atlantic retro- 
spective festival naturally put some little life of pensiveness into the gaze I fastened upon 
that nursUng of American commercial shipping, Bath, beyond the sea." 

Services were held at Bath and at Popham, nearby, which is the exact spot of the 
original settlement. 

It is not generally realized that the early settlements of Maine antedated those 
in Massachusetts and that our industry of shipbuilding, so important to the early 
pioneers, was started in this little settlement at Popham, in 1607, when the early 
colonists built a little "Pynnace of thirty tonnes" which they called the " V'irginia 
of Sagadahock," the first ship built by European hands on the American continent. 
There is no record of her career except that she took some of the early colonists 
back to England soon after the start of the settlement, and the following year sailed 
to Jamestown, Virginia. 

Sir Ferdinando Gorges, friend of Raleigh and Governor of Plymouth under 
James I, the projector and patron of this little colony of George Popham, — the 
brother of the Chief Justice of England, — held out to his sovereign the vast terri- 
tory which he sought to colonize, "as promising the increase of the King's Navy, 
the breeding of mariners and the employment of his people." Not to the glory of 
his sovereign, but of the sovereign people of America was this prophecy to be ful- 
filled, and in its fulfillment Bath and the banks of the Kennebec have had an illus- 
trious part. 

We have no record of the intermittent building of vessels which went on here 
for a century and a half following the Popham settlement. Sir William Phips, the 
first American to be knighted, and first Governor of Massachusetts Bay, was born 



^^^ f, f tj<jtja^Vi_€> ^.f IE r» "^ 
>« «.^0 K^^m ^ » S* •' f.* fci I « <> ^^ 

C» «• O *» '.- T * ' f^ F* H ^ ^ 




THE POPHAM MEMORIAL 



Kindness Miss Evciyn L. Giimore 



at Fort St. George, on the promontory of Sabino. The memorial was |)laced there in 1907 to commemorate 
the landing of the first English colony on the shores of New England, in 1607, under George Popham. 
A copy of the inscription appears on page 55. 



BATH, MAINE 



53 




From a print Kindness Miss Evelyn L. Cilmore 

FORT POPHAM AND SITE OF THE POPHAM MEMORIAL 
AT THE MOUTH OF THE KENNEBEC RIVER 

Fort Popham is the old discarded fort in the center of the picture; the 
memorial is indicated by the arrow and the site of Fort St. George is just 
to the right of the arrow. This promontory is called Sabino. 



just across the river 
and learned the ship- 
wright's trade there, 
and in 1762 the build- 
ing of full rigged ships 
became an estabhshed 
industry, carrying the 
name and fame of Bath 
to the remotest ports 
of the world. The first 
ship was the "Earl of 
Bute" built in 1762 by 
Captain William Swan- 
ton. Over one hundred 
and forty years later 
the last wooden sailing 
ship was built in the 
District of Bath; her 
name was the" Aryan," 
and she was built by 

Minott. Other famous ships of Bath were the first "Rappahannock," 1841; 
the second "Rappahannock," 1890; the "Roanoke" and the "Shenandoah," 
at the time of their launching the largest wooden ships afloat; the "Dirigo," 
1894, the fiTst steel sailing ship built in America; and the "Wilham P. Frye" 
sunk by the German cruiser "Prinz Eitel Friedrich," January 28, 1915, the 
first American ship sunk by Germany; all of the above vessels were built and 
owned by the Sewalls. In the long roll of builders of Bath square riggers may be 
mentioned as types — space not allowing Justice to all — the names of William King, 
Maine's first Governor, Crooker, Drummond, Houghton, Reed, Rideout, Patten 
and Rogers, and no history of Bath shipbuilding is complete without adding the 
name of Hyde, father and son, who gave to the Bath Iron Works its acknowledged 
pre-eminence in speed design and naval building. Four other plants connected 
with shipbuilding at present in Bath are the Texas Steamship Company, the Hyde 
Windlass Company, the G. C. Bearing Company and Percy & Small; the two last 
named concerns building wooden ships. 

The original settlement by George Popham and his colony was on the peninsula 
of Sabino, at the mouth of the Kennebec, and here also was celebrated the two 
hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the inauguration of the first civil government 
on these shores, and likewise the building of this little ship "Virginia of Sagada- 
hock" was again honoured. It must be remembered that the Kennebec River, 
known in the old days as Sagadahock, meaning "here it ends," has the honour of 



54 



BATH, MAINE 




Photograph by F. Frith &• Co., England 



Kindness Ian Forbes- Robertson, Esq. 



"DOUGHBOYS" AT ROMAN BATHS, BATH, ENGLAND 

Some of the three hundred "doughboys" who visited the old Roman baths in Bath, England, on Inde- 
pendence Day, July 4, 1918, as guests of the Mayor of the city. The soldiers of Rome bathed in these 
baths over one thousand nine hundred years ago. 



having witnessed the first successful attempt of English colonization on the New 
England coast; it may also be of interest to mention that between the years 1607 
and 1622 over one hundred and nine English vessels entered the nearby harbours. 

At the time of this two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the settlement, the 
United States Government began the construction of a fort near the supposed site 
of the old one erected by the Popham colonists. At the suggestion of the Maine 
Historical Society, a stone, with a suitable inscription, was gotten ready, but the 
building of the fort was postponed owing to the fact that the Government decided 
it would not be an adequate defence for the mouth of the Kennebec River. 

In the meantime it was discovered that the Popham Colonists did not occupy 
the exact site of the old fort and, therefore, a new stone was placed at the proper 
site of Fort St. George on the promontory nearby, the dedication ceremonies being 
performed by Bishop Robert Codman, following the exact ritual read by Richard 
Seymour, the Chaplain of the Popham Colonists. The inscription on the memorial 
reads as follows: — 



BATH, MAINE 55 

The First English colony 

On the shores of New England 

was founded here 

August 29 N. S. 1607 

under George Popham. 

A salute was also fired on this occasion, in honour of Popham, the first Governor 
of the Colony, who died there and who was buried within the enclosure of the fort. 
This memorial is placed on a rocky point on Sabino Hill overlooking the fort and 
adjoining the Government reservation. Several years before Popham landed at 
the mouth of the Kennebec, Captain George Waymouth made a voyage to this 
coast, landing at Monhegan Island, then called St. George's Island, whence he 
proceeded probably up the St. George's River. He returned to Dartmouth, Eng- 
land. To commemorate his discovery and exploration, the Maine Historical Society 
in 1905, on the three hundredth anniversary of his voyage, erected a cross on Allen's 
Island in St. George's Harbour, similar to the cross Waymouth himself set up at 
this place, thus making the earliest known claim of right of possession by an English- 
man on New England soil. These services were attended by J. B. Keating, Esq., 
British Vice-Consul at Portland, Maine, who made a speech on this occasion. A 
tablet has also been placed in Thomas ton in memory of Waymouth. 

We have obtained a picture of some doughboys, three hundred of whom were 
guests of the Mayor of the English Bath on Independence Day, 1918, and who must 
have shown great interest in viewing the old Roman relics over nineteen hundred 
years old. The Baths were turned over to the allied armies during the War, 
and many soldiers have regained their health at this famous spring, as generations 
past have done, according to these two well-known lines: — 

"A seething bath which men yet prove 
Against strange maladies a sovereign cure." 

The discovery of the baths is somewhat uncertain; some historians claim that the 
father of Shakespeare's King Lear discovered these waters over eight hundred 
years before the Christian Era; while others are inclined to believe in the legend 
that Prince Bladud, son of Lud Hudibras, King of Britain, being banished from 
the kingdom on account of leprosy, hired himself out as a swineherd and, in the 
course of his wanderings, happened to cross the waters of the Avon where he dis- 
covered one of his sows, afTected with the same malady, wallowing in the mud about 
some bubbling hot springs. When the animal came out, he was amazed to find 
that it was entirely cured. The young prince was also cured, returned to his father's 
palace, and later when he became king he is said to have founded a city at these 
springs. Up to this day it has been one of the earth's secrets, unsolved by scientists. 
The life at Bath, England, in the eighteenth century, presents a striking con- 
trast to that of the little American city. While the settlement upon the Kennebec 
was recovering from the hostile invasions of the Indians and was firmly establish- 




From a photograph by F. Frith 6* Co.. England 



BATH, ENGLAND, 
from North Parade Bridge, showing the Abbey. 



K'i,\dntii I'ln I I'rhfS'Robertstm, Esq. 




From a plwtograph by F. Frith ^ Co.. England Kindnta Ian F or ba- Robertson, Esq. 

THE ROYAL CRESCENT, BATH, ENGLAND 



BATH, MAINE 



57 



ing itself upon the shores of the New World, the English city, under the rule of 
"Beau Nash," as "Master of Ceremonies," was the domain of fashion and gaiety, 
the center for the beau monde of England. Morning, noon and evening had their 
allotted pleasures, from the early revels at Spring Gardens to the fashionable balls 
at night. Varied indeed has been the history of this "Queen City of the West," 
as the English often call it, ever since its foundation, and not only has it been a 
health resort, but also a center of fashionable society and a Mecca for artists and 
men of letters. During the days of civil strife. Round Heads and Cavaliers fought 
in its streets. 

At the time of Charles the Second, Bath was the favorite resort of royalty and 
celebrities, and among the latter have been Rochester, Addison, Walpole, Sheri- 
dan, Steele, Fielding and Pope, and that splendid circle of buildings known as 
"The Circus" has had many noted residents including Gainsborough the artist, 
and William Pitt, first Earl of Chatham; Jane Austen was also a frequent visitor 
at Bath, and her novels are said to be founded on Bath society, in fact Mrs. Sid- 
dons called herself a "Child of Bath." Pepys, too, visited the city, and recorded 
in his diary his experiences at one of the baths, concerning which he writes: — 

"Methinks it cannot be clean to go so many bodies together in the same water." 

Many kings and seven queens have gone there in search of health, and it has 
been said that the winter season at Bath was regarded as little less important 
than the spring season in London. 

Edmund Burke, who in 1797 Uved in the fine central house of the stately North 
Parade, tenanted in 1771 by Oliver Goldsmith, proved a true friend to the Amer- 
ican colonists during their struggle for freedom, and an eloquent tribute to his 
political virtues was delivered by the late Hon. Whitelaw Reid, when he went to 
Bath on October 22, 1908, to inaugurate the memorial tablet commemorating 
Burke's last sojourn on the banks of the Avon. "There are few English cities," 
said Mr. Reid, "which more strongly appeal to my countrymen than Bath, once 
the abiding place of Burke and the elder Pitt." General Wolfe and Major Andre 
also lived there. 

In King's Bath is an effigy of Bladud, with an inscription nearby, recalling the 
legend that he was "the founder of these baths 863 years before Christ." 

The Abbey is the architectural feature of the city and in it is a monument to 
the memory of Hon. W. Bingham, President of the United States Senate in 1797. 

Readers of Dickens will also remember that Pickwick visited Bath, and on the 
coach in which he travelled was painted the owner's name, which strangely enough 
was Moses Pickwick, as referred to by Sam Weller. Few readers of Dickens, how- 
ever, realize that this name on the coach was actually an historical fact. Bath 
has often been called England's "Florence," "Waters of the Sun," "City of Fash- 
ion," and "Bath the Magnificent; " by the Romans it was called Aquas Sulis. 



S8 BATH, MAINE 

Fittingly, we may conclude with an allusion to another link between the Amer- 
ican and the English Bath: Thomas Pownall, Governor of Massachusetts, 1751-60, 
was a firm friend of the Colonists, and understood America as no other Enghsh- 
man. He was bom in Lincoln, England, and for this reason the ancient county of 
Lincoln in the Province of Maine, often styled the Mother of Maine Counties, 
received its name. This is the county in which Bath was situated, until set oE 
into the County of Sagadahock. Pownalborough across the river was the shire 
town, and Thomas PownaD from whom it was named died in the English Bath. 

BELFAST, MAINE 

THE toss of a coin about the year 1770 decided the question as to whether 
Belfast, Maine, should be so called or whether it should be named London- 
derry, from the town of the same name in New Hampshire whence most 
of the settlers in the Maine town had come a short time previously. A dispute 
had arisen as to the name of this new settlement, but James Miller, who with his 
wife and children was the first person to set foot on shore when their vessel reached 
these new lands, was determined that it should be named for Belfast, Cotmty An- 
trim, Ireland, the place of his birth. Some authorities claim that Miller's son, 
Robert, named Belfast, but this cannot be so because at that time the son was 
only twelve years of age. Miller finally, however, agreed to have this question 
decided in the manner already described. The town, now a city, was incorporated 
in 1773. The two Belfasts have often been thought to resemble one another in 
certain ways, for both places are divided by rivers which empty in each case into 
Belfast Bay; moreover both harbours afTord very safe anchorage and are particu- 
larly attractive, the word "Belfast" signifying "Beautiful Harbour," an appella- 
tion most appropriate to both places. 

The daring adventurers consisting of about thirty persons, first journeyed 
from Londonderry to Haverhill in May, 1770, and from there they went down the 
river and along the coast to Newbur>-port. From there they sailed north and after 
a hard week arrived at Northport, which they mistook for Belfast, and the name 
given to the harbour there was Saturday Cove, which name it still bears. These 
pioneers, who were of the same Scotch-Irish descent as the settlers of Londonderry, 
New Hampshire, then sailed along the coast from Northport a short distance until 
they reached Belfast. It is no surprise that they made such a success of this Maine 
enterprise, for we find them described by Hon. Charles H. Bell in these words: 
"There has been almost no place of eminence, political, literary, or professional, 
to which men of this descent have not attained. The number of them whose names 
have been, written in history is endless." Among these settlers was John Mitchell 
who came from Ireland to New England with his young son and, on a visit to Pas- 
samaquoddy, Maine, in 1668, learned that this large tract of fifteen thousand 




Photograph taken by F. Frith 6* Co., England 



Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 



BELFAST, IRELAND, 
showing the Albert Memorial Clock Tower. 



BELFAST, MAINE 




From "Belfast and the Province oj Vliter in lite 20th Century," by Robert M. Voun^, BA.. J. P., published by \V. T. Pike j* Co., 

Brighton, Enitand 

From a water color in possession oj Gt, Clark, M.P, 

HIGH STREET, BELFAST, IRELAND, IN 1786 



acres of land was for sale at the price of twenty cents per acre; he inspected it and 
was so impressed by its natural beauty and advantages that on his return to London- 
derry, New Hampshire, he persuaded his friends to purchase it. A meeting was 
held at the house of David Craig, and a "Community" or "Proprietary" was 
formed to purchase these lands, then known merely as a "tract on the southerly 
side of a township granted to Co. Goldthwait at Penobscot Fort." There was a 
very interesting and unusual condition imposed in the purchase agreement that 
"we bind ourselves that no one shall own a right amongst us that is unable to pro- 
duce a certificate of good moral character to the satisfaction of the community and 
to the gentlemen of which the purchase is made." Mitchell was the largest pur- 
chaser of land and is usually referred to as the founder of the town. 

The lives of these settlers were full of hardship, and there is a record of one 
person who wrote home, "No cleared land in sight and no house except our cabin, 
composed of logs, through which holes were cut for doors and windows, with hem- 
lock bark for roof." 



BELFAST, MAINE 



6i 




From '• Belfast and the Province of Ulster in the 20th Century," hy Robert .\f. Vouns, B.A., J. P., pitblisiied by W. T. Pike ^ Co., 

Brighton, Englatvd 

CASTLE PLACE, BELFAST, IRELAND, IN 1843 



The mother town in Ireland is situated on the river Lagan, just before it enters 
Belfast Bay, which was often the resort of roving Danes in the early centuries. 
Belfast has been spelled in many ways: Belfirst, Belfeirste, Ballfaste, Bealfast 
and Belferside being the usual way of spelUng it in histories. The oldest name 
of the ground on which Belfast is situated was Ballyrecoolegalgie and this part of 
Ulster was originally named Uladh. The Irish name for Belfast was Beal-na-farsad 
or Bela Fearsad, meaning in the Irish language "mouth of the ford." 

The authentic history of Belfast really begins with the Norman knight John de 
Courci who owned the counties of Antrim and Down and who built the first castle 
at Belfast in 1177. Belfast cannot claim the antiquity of Dublin as its history 
does not go back, beyond the twelfth century, but during the latter part of the 
seventeenth century it is described by some writers as being the second town of 
Ireland. It is not known definitely when the Castle was built, but its career has 
been replete with history; it was held by De Maundeville, an Anglo-Norman, 
about 1300, later it came into the possession of Hugh O'Neill, and in 1560 it be- 
longed to Queen Elizabeth. Still later the Castle again reverted to another member 
of the O'Neill family, one of the most important names in Belfast history, and 
finally it was granted at the beginning of the seventeenth century to Sir Arthur 
Chichester, who was the first Earl of Donegal, and who improved the city to such 



62 BELFAST, MAINE 

an extent that it reached its era of greatest prosperity at this time; in fact he was 
the real founder of modern Belfast in the year 1601. The possession of the Castle 
in the early days was almost equivalent to the ownership of Belfast itself. Sir 
John Chichester, younger brother of Arthur Chichester, once captured the Castle. 
He was killed and beheaded by MacDonnell. The story is told that some time 
later MacDonnell went to see the Chichester family tomb in St. Nicholas' Church 
at Carrickfergus near Belfast, and upon seeing Sir John's effigy, the warrior in- 
quired, "How the de'il came he to get his head again, for I was sure I had once 
ta'en it frae him?" 

The old church near the town was called in the fourteenth century the "White 
Church," this name being later changed to "Church of St. Patrick of the Old Ford;" 
this was the mother church of the district, a branch chapel called "Chapel of the 
Ford" being the forerunner of the future church of Belfast. Near the site of this 
church, on High Street, now stands St. George's. The first Roman Catholic priest 
of Belfast was Rev. Phelomy O'Hamill, and the date of his coming was about the 
year 1704. 

The first stage to DubUn was started in 1752 and three days were required in 
making the difficult journey; some years later another stage line was inaugurated 
to Newry and the coach traveled with such speed that it was called the "Newry 
Flying Coach." In earlier days it is said that the female shopkeepers of Belfast, 
when they found it necessary to make a journey to Dublin, usually went by pillion. 

In the eighteenth century Belfast was the scene of many sports, chief of which 
were cock-fights and the Ballymacash horse races. Sugar refining was one of the 
leading industries of Belfast as early as 1683, George Macartney, one of the lead- 
ing citizens of the town, owning a large plant. The first Linen Hall, which was 
used as a trading market, was erected in the year 1739. The town also had its 
salt works, its woolen mill, a ship building plant, glass works, a brewery and a 
rope walk. Among the most prominent families of the city are the Warings, Pottin- 
gers, Knoxes and Legges. 

BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS 

BEVERLEY, England, which is always spelled with an "e" before the "y," 
is an attractive town closely associated with romance, traditions and strug- 
gles. The town was in olden times called " Beverlega " and later " Beverlac " 
or "Beverlaco" from the great numbers of beavers that aboimded in this locaUty, 
the name later being changed to "Beverley." The beaver has always been accepted 
as the symbol of the town, and on a cloth shield which Constitutional Lodge No. 
294 in Beverley, England, some years ago, sent over to Liberty Lodge in our 
Beverly, the figure of a beaver appears twice conspicuously among the other attrac- 
tive decorations. This beautiful present, which is shown in the cut on page 63, 



BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS 



63 




From photographs taken/or the State Street Trust Company 

CLOTH SHIELD 

in the rooms of Liberty Lodge, Beverly, Mas- 
sachusetts, presented by Constitutional Lodge 
No. 294, Beverley, England. The beaver is 
the symbol of the English town, which received 
its name on account of the number of these 
animals which abounded in that locality in 
olden times. 



mm 



m^:^ 



(^ .'Jlhc sO..' 






'?^ ^iHiiiTi ;ijinil;5 jii^ bfiirtu ^w^^ u«i%lj«'^ 
/^•i^ b IW jBtiftWfii ot Sibfit; %^S^t tor 

fi iiuer J Effuhw r -^Eiue.. 

•■-^^ ■», ^Mi>i,n' in (otnmimcnihoii afltjt-vw 




J 



Kindness Worshipful Master B. Franklin Murray, and Rn, 
E.J. V.Huiginn 

REPLY OF THANKS 

sent by Constitutional Lodge No. 294, of Bever- 
ley, England, to Liberty Lodge, Beverly, Massa- 
chusetts, for presents of a loving cup, moosehead, 
and beaver, sent to the English lodge by the 
Massachusetts lodge. P'or the wording of this 
letter see page 64. 



hangs in the rooms of the Lodge. Interchange of friendly relations between the two 
Lodges was originated by the Earl of Londesborough of Beverley, England, and 
Charles Woodberry of Beverly, Mass., now deceased, who was a brother of George 
E. Woodberry, the author and poet; and pictures of these two men, who have done 
so much to promote these exchanges, now hang on the walls of the American Lodge. 
Liberty Lodge is also closely connected with the Alexandria-Washington Lodge 
in Virginia, of which George Washington was once Master, and on the walls of the 
Beverly Lodge is a very fine painting of the " Father of his Country " in his Masonic 
robes. Both these Lodges hold their great banquets each year on Washington's 
Birthday, and presents on these occasions are exchanged. The English Lodge always 
remembers the event and sends presents to Liberty Lodge. When the late Earl 
of Londesborough was alive he always sent large hampers of game from his own 
preserves, also ivy, mistletoe and laurel, to make the occasion an enjoyable one. 



64 



BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS 




Phoinrraph h\ F Frith <r Co . England 



Kindness Ian F or be s- Robert ion, Esq. 



BEVERLEY MINSTER, BEVERLEY, ENGLAND, 

one of the finest Gothic churches in England. On the walls of Liberty Lodge, Beverly, Massachusetts, 
hang a number of pictures of this cathedral and of this English town. 



and Thomas Foley, the present Secretary of the English Lodge, still continues the 
custom of sending presents to the American Lodge- Some years ago, Liberty 
Lodge, Beverly, sent over among other gifts a large moosehead, a loving cup and a 
magnificent beaver which was captured by one of our backwoodsmen. The beaver 
and loving cup are in the rooms of the English Lodge, while the moosehead is in the 
residence of the late Earl of Londesborough, Blanckney Lodge. Their reply of 
thanks elaborately illuminated is hung on the walls of Beverly Lodge, and reads 
as follows: — 

"To the W. M. and Brethren of Liberty Lodge, Beverly, Mass. U. S. A. 
Fraternal Greeting. We the W. M. officers and Brethren of the Con- 
stitutional Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons, Beverley No. 294, on 
the Register of the Grand Lodge of England, Record in open lodge assem- 
bled our sincere thanks and hearty good wishes to the Brethren of 
Liberty Lodge for their handsome Present of a Silver Loving Cup given 
in commemoration of the Constitutional Lodge attaining its Centenary. 

17 June 1893" 



BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS 



6S 




Frcm a photograph 



CmirU.sy W K. Walkins. Esq. 



NORTH BAR, BEVERLEY, ENGLAND 



It is interesting to notice that this letter was dated June 17, Constitutional Lodge 
having thoughtfully picked out the date of the Battle of Bunker Hill in order to 
show that no ill feeling between the countries any longer existed. Return presents 
were sent to Liberty Lodge, including engravings, paintings, photographs, a Union 
Jack, two dozen old-fashioned "fireing" glasses, as they are called, and an attrac- 
tive set of drinking glasses, each one of which has the picture of a beaver on it. 
On the walls of the American Lodge are a dozen or so photographs of Beverley and 
the Minster, and there is also a large photograph of the same church in the main 
room of the Lodge. It may be interesting also to record that the American Lodge 
raised a sum of money to help repair the statues on the outside of the English 
Cathedral, and in addition to this, during the war, the American Lodge sent money 
to Constitutional Lodge to take care of its wounded soldiers. Still another inter- 
change of presents is interesting to note; while St. John's Church at Beverly Farms, 
Mass., was being built, the Beverley Minister sent to the Rev. E. J. V. Huiginn 
two splendid photographs to decorate the vestry room of the Church. 

In 1906 Roland W. Boyden, Esq., of Liberty Lodge was the official representa- 
tive to the Enghsh Lodge and was treated with great hospitality by the members 



66 



BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS 




Frarn a print immrii hv a floston collector Formerly in the collection of J. H. Seers, Essex, England 

THE MARKET PLACE, BEVERLEY, ENGLAND 

of the Beverley fraternity, among whom were John Elwell, Esq., the Master, Brother 
Hobson, Brother Gates, Brother Thomson Foley, the Secretary, and Brother Tom 
Turner. On his return Mr. Boyden gave an account of his visit at a meeting of 
Liberty Lodge held on October 31, 1906, and in this address he said: "The Eng- 
lish, too, feel strongly the race tie which exists between the two countries, and 
they feel pride in the progress and success of the English blood on this side 
of the water." 

Near the spot where the Beverley Minster now stands there used to be a mon- 
astery which was built in 721 A.D, by St. John of Beverley, who was at the time 
Archbishop of York; and to him the town, therefore, owes much of its prosperity. 
The Danes destroyed the town, together with the monastery, which was rebuilt, 
St. John of Beverley being then canonized and his bones enshrined in the new 
church. There is much interesting history attached to this place. Edward II visited 
Beverley previous to the battle of Bannockburn. His light horsemen in the battle 
were named "hobelers" on accoimt of the small horses they rode, but they showed 
such bravery that they are supposed to have originated the well-known proverb, 
"Don't ride your hobby to death." In 1759 the Fifteenth York East Riding 
Regiment of Foot, which sailed against Quebec under General Wolfe and was cap- 
tured, had its headquarters in the town, and they were jokingly called by some 
"The East Chalkshire Volunteers." In the old days the townspeople were much 
interested in bull-baiting and cock-fighting, which sports were indulged in by the 



BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS 67 

Athenians and the Romans. Beverley also held many horse races and had a famous 
hunt called the "Holderness Hunt," of which Tom Hodgson was the Master for 
many years beginning from the year 1824. He had his kennels at Beverley and 
hved only for hunting, and often after the rims the members dined together in the 
Beverley Arms Hotel. It is also mentioned that the cherry brandy used on these 
occasions was "no bad jumping powder in this country of drains," but that it went 
down a bit more easily if one looked at the attractive inscription on the bottle. 
The Master lived in such an humble room that it is said he could sit on his bed, stir 
the fire, and see his hoimds through a hole in the wall, all at once. This well- 
known huntsman covered such distances on his runs that the people of the town 
said his men were made of cast iron, his horses of steel, and his hounds of india- 
rubber. In the very old days there was much horse-stealing in the country, 
which suggested the untrue saying, "If you shake a bridle over the grave of a York- 
shireman, he will arise and steal a horse." 

Beverly, Massachusetts, was so. named in the year 1668, the settlement having 
previously been called Mackerel Cove or Bass River. The place was originally 
part of Naumkeag, which included Salem, Marblehead, Manchester, Wenham, 
Danvers and some adjacent territory. It belonged to John, Sagamore of Agawam, 
who welcomed the new comers and made them a free grant of this entire territory. 
The first permanent settlement here was made by Roger Conant, John and William 
Woodberry, John Balch and Peter Palfrey in 1630. These five men all belonged 
to the Church of England. In 1668 Bass River was incorporated into a township 
by the name of Beverly, and the first selectmen included Thomas Lothrop, William 
Dixey, William Dodge, Sr., John West and Paul Thorndike. Three years later 
Roger Conant drew up a petition for a change of name which starts as follows : — 

"The humble petition of Roger Conant, of Bass River alias Beverly, 
who hath bin a planter in New England fortie yeers and upwards, being 
one of the first, if not the very first, that resolved and made good my 
settlement under God in matter of plantation with my family in this 
coUony of the Massachusets Bay, and have bin instrumental, both for 
the founding and carrying on of the same; " 

adding that 

"Now my umble suite and request is unto this honorable Court, onUe 
that the name of our towne or plantation may be altered or changed 
from Beverly to be called Budleigh. I have two reasons that have 
moved me unto this request. The first is the great dislike and dis- 
content of many of our people for this name of Beverly, because (we 
being but a small place) it hath caused on us a constant nickname of 
Beggarly, being in the mouths of many, and no order was given, or 
consent by the people to their agent for any name until we were shure 
of being a town granted in the first place. 

Secondly. I being the first that had house in Salem (and neither had 
any hand in naming either that or any other town) and myself with 
those that were then with me, being all from the western part of Eng- 



68 BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS 

land, desire this western name of Budleigh, a market towne in Devon- 
shire, and neere unto the sea, as wee are heere in this place, and where 
myself was borne. Now in regard of our firstnesse and antiquity in this 
soe famous a collony, we should umblie request this small preveledg 
with your favors and consent, to give this name above said, unto our 
town. I never yet made sute or request unto the Generall Court for 
the last matter, tho' I thinke I might as well have done, as many others 
have, who have obtained much without hazard of life, or preferring the 
public good before their own interest, which, I praise God, I have done." 

The Court replied that it could "see no cause to alter the name of the place as 
desired," much to the disgust of the petitioner. Conant was born in Budleigh, 
England, in 1591; in 1623 he came over here to Plymouth, then moved to Nan- 
tasket, later to Cape Ann, and finally to Salem, living to the ripe age of eighty- 
nine. John Balch came from Bridgewater, Somersetshire, England. 



BRISTOL, MAINE 

(.■\lso Xew Hampshire, Vermont, Rhode Island and Connecticut) 

THERE is a Bristol in each of the New England States with the exception of 
Massachusetts, and most of them have derived their name from Bristol, 
England, which port almost takes rank with Plymouth, England, as having 
been the home or starting point of many of the early voyages of exploration to the 
New England coast, and particularly to Maine. The merchants of the English 
Bristol, in the early days, took a great deal of interest in all the suggested ventures 
to the American shores, and their interest was encouraged in many cases by the 
city authorities. The earliest explorers whose names are connected with the Eng- 
lish city were John Cabot, who resided there, and his son Sebastian, who claimed 
he was born at "Bristowe," meaning Bristol. In 1497 Henry VII granted letters 
patent to John Cabot, who with his son Sebastian set sail in the "Matthew," and 
succeeded in discovering the continent of North America, landing first at Cape 
Breton. Cabot also made a second voyage along the Atlantic coast, and it has 
often been asserted that he opened the way towards the English colonization of our 
shores. A large tower was erected to the memory of John Cabot on Brandon Hill, 
Bristol, England, in 1897, commemorating the four hundredth anniversary of his 
great discovery. There are three bronze tablets on the tower, one recording the 
laying of the corner stone by the Marquess of Dufferin and Ava, in June, 1897, 
and the dedication of the tower by him in the following year. The second tablet 
reads as follows: — 

This tablet is placed here by the Bristol Branch of the Peace Society in 
the earnest hope that Peace and Friendship may ever continue between 
the kindred Peoples of this Country and America. 

Glory to God in the Highest, and on Earth Peace, Goodwill 

toward men. Luke ii. 14. 




PUotos^raph tiken espeiiaUy for the State Street Trust Company by F. Frith b" Co., England Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

THE CABOT TOWER, ON BRANDON HILL, BRISTOL, ENGLAND, 

erected in 1S97 to the memory of John Cabot, to commemorate the four hundredth anniversary of his 

discovery of the continent of North America. 



70 



BRISTOL, MAINE 



The third tablet is worded as follows: — 

This Tower 

was erected by public subscription 

in the 6ist year of the Reign of Queen Victoria, 

to commemorate the fourth centenary of 

the Discovery of the Continent of 

North America 

on the 24th of June, 1497 by 

John Cabot 

who sailed from this port in the 

Bristol Ship 'Matthew' with a Bristol crew 

under Letters Patent granted by King Henry VII 

to that Navigator and his Sons 

Lewis, Sebastian, and Sanctus. 

Another memorial has been raised to John and Sebastian Cabot in the form of a 
bronze tablet placed on St. Augustine's Bridge in Bristol, bearing the following 
inscription : — 

^ m I ^ From this port John Cabot and his son 

g SSBtt tiu^ Sebastian (who was born in Bristol) sailed 

mBSi MnSSJni g"^!!^ in the ship Matthew a. d. 1497 and dis- 

^^^■V Bu^fiM^Bfi^^ covered the continent of North America. 

^^S3^ g*^^ ^^^Zll^ In the Church of St. Mary Redcliffe is still to 
^^^^^^^K^^^fUK^IK^^l^ be seen the "Dun Cow" bone, the rib of a cow 

whale, which is the only remaining trophy of 
Cabot's expedition, and which for some time 
was considered part of the body of George 
Warwick. This great seaport is also closely 
associated with the adventures of Martin 
Frobisher, and it may also be intetesting to 
mention that here lie the remains of Admiral 
William Penn, the father of the famous Lord 
Proprietor and governor of Pennsylvania. It 
may interest the reader also to mention that 
the steamships "Great Britain" and "Great 
Western," the latter being the pioneer of 
transatlantic steam traffic, were launched at 
this English seaport. Shipping is still carried 
on quite extensively, although not by large 
vessels, and a particularly picturesque feature 
is that ships can sail into the very heart of the 
town, as shown in one of our cuts. A few feet 
from these docks is the fashionable shipping 
street, and nearby is the cathedral. 




From " The Beginnings of Colonial Maine.*' by Uenry 
S. Barrage, D.D., Historian of Maine 

PRING MEMORIAL 

in St. Stephen's Church, Bristol, England, 
placed there to commemorate the well- 
known voyages of Capt. Martin Pring to 
the Maine Coast and to the East Indies. 
The first part of the inscription is given in 
our text on page 72. 



BRISTOL, MAINE 



71 




Photograph taken especially for the State Street Trust Company by F. Frith &• Co., England 



Kindness Ian Forhes-Robertson, Esq. 



BRISTOL, ENGLAND, 
showing the center of the city and the docks, the latter being a picturesque feature of this seaport. 



An object of interest to Americans is the Portland Street Wesleyan Methodist 
Chapel, which was founded by Captain Webb who is said to be the founder of 
Methodism in America. A window in this chapel represents him preaching in his 
scarlet uniform with his sword beside him. Another interesting fact connected 
with Bristol is the splendid collection of pastel portraits exhibited in the Bristol 
Art Gallery by James Sharpies who Uved in America for several years and who died 
in New York in 181 1. He made portraits of all the famous persons of his time in- 
cluding George Washington, Mrs. Washington, Alexander Hamilton, John Adams, 
Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, Mrs. Madison, Aaron Burr and many others. 
Bristol, England, is situated on both banks of the Avon, and was regarded at one 
time as the second capital of the kingdom. When the Queen of James II made a 
visit to the town in 1613 she enjoyed it so much that she said "she never knew she 
was Queen until she came to Bristol." 

There is an interesting memorial in St. Stephen's Church, Bristol, England, 
to Captain Martin Pring, who sailed twice, probably from Bristol, on his well- 
known voyages to the Maine coast. His first achievement in 1603 was cele- 



72 BRISTOL, MAINE 

brated in Portland, Maine, on its three hundredth anniversary. We give a 
cut of this monument in Bristol, England, on page 70. Part of the inscription 
reads as follows: — 

To the Pious Memorie of Martin Fringe, Merchaunt, etc., etc. 

His painefuU, skillfull, travayles reacht as farre 
As from the Artick to the Antartick starre; 
He made himself A Shippe. Religion 
His onely Compass, and the truth alone 
His guiding Cynosure: Faith was his Sailes, ■ 
His Anchour Hope. 

There are also tablets erected in St. Peter's Church in Bristol to Robert Aldworth 
and Giles Elbridge, two prominent Bristol merchants who in 1626 bought Monhegan 
Island, off the Maine coast, from Abraham Jennings, and who also obtained a 
grant of twelve thousand acres of land at Pemaquid in 163 1, from which territory 
has sprung Bristol, Maine. This island of Monhegan, formerly called St. George's 
Island, was one of the fishing ports used in the early days by the fishermen of the 
British Isles. 

Bristol, Maine, was incorporated as a town in 1765 and was so called because 
of the connection of its early history with so many citizens of England, although 
it is not known by whom the name was suggested. The first title to these lands 
was acquired by John Brown who bought the present territory and Damariscotta 
in 1625. The early conveyancer of these lands was Abraham Shurt, and Nathaniel 
I. Bowditch, the well-known Boston conveyancer, dedicated his book "to the 
memory of Abraham Shurt, the father of American conveyancing, whose name is 
associated alike with my daily toilet and my daily occupation." There is a tablet 
erected to commemorate the execution of this first deed in America which conveyed 
a large part of Pemaquid, including Bristol, from the well-known Sagamore Samoset 
to John Brown. Sewall wrote that "Pemaquid under titles from the President of 
the Council of New England became a noted place and the busiest on the coast." 
Pemaquid at this time included the land east of Falmouth, now Portland, and west 
of the Penobscot River. 

It may be interesting to mention that some of the Popham people are supposed 
to have landed at Pemaquid in 1607, and there is a tablet placed in the tower built 
over the Fort at Pemaquid Harbour to commemorate the landing of these English- 
men on the New England shores. 

Bristol, Rhode Island, received its name in 16S1 and was probably named for 
the English town of this name, although we have been unable to trace any con- 
necting links; however, its broad street was laid out by an Englishman. At one 
time this Rhode Island town was the fourth largest seaport in the country, and a 
large commerce with the world was carried on from there. 




From an old print Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 




From s photograph by F. Frith ^ Co.. England 



Kituiness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 



CAMBRIDGE, EXGLAXD 
\'ie\v on the Cam. 



74 BRISTOL, MAINE 

Bristol, Vermont, was originally granted to Samuel Averill and sixty-two of his 
associates and was first called "Pocock" for the distinguished English Admiral of 
this name; the name Bristol was given in the year 1789. 

CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 

AFTER GOD HAD CARRIED US SAFE TO NEW ENGLAND 

AND WEE HAD BUILDED OUR HOUSES 
PROVIDED NECESSARIES FOR OUR LIVELI HOOD 
REARD CONVENIENT PLACES FOR GOD's WORSHIP 

AND SETLED THE CIVILE GOVERNMENT 
ONE OF THE NEXT THINGS WE LONGED FOR 

AND LOOKED AFTER WAS TO ADVANCE LEARNING 

AND PERPETUATE IT TO POSTERITY 
DREADING TO LEAVE AN ILLITERATE MINISTERY 
TO THE CHURCHES WHEN OUR PRESENT MINISTERS 

SHALL LIE IN THE DUST 

THESE memorable words on a tablet at the right of the Johnson Gate, on the 
west side of Harvard College Yard, are taken from "New England's First 
Fruits," a pamphlet published in London in 1643; these Hnes show us that 
the struggling colony, which could raise only sixty pounds to defend itself from the 
Indians, appropriated four hundred pounds to guard itself against ignorance. Oppo- 
site this tablet near the Johnson Gate is another one which records that the " coUedge 
is ordered to bee at Newetowne;" that "Newetowne henceforward be called Cam- 
brige;" and that the "colledge shallbee called Harvard." There is another tablet 
on the corner of Boylston Hall facing Massachusetts Avenue, which probably has 
been read by very few of the thousands of students who have been at Harvard, 
and who, therefore, may not be aware of the fact that Cambridge was once called 
Newtown, sometimes also spelled Newtowne. The words on this tablet are as 
follows: — 

Here was the homestead 

of Thomas Hooker 

1633-36 

First pastor at Newtown. 

It will be remembered that this is the same Hooker who journeyed to, and founded, 
Hartford, Connecticut. There are other tablets in the yard which must be es- 
pecially interesting to the many English visitors who have been at Harvard, as they 
show that three of the oldest and finest buildings of Harvard College were named 
for English benefactors. Hollis Hall, built by the Province in 1763, was named in 
honour of Thomas HolUs of London, merchant, and members of his family who 
were benefactors of the College; Holworthy was built by a state lottery in 1812 
and was named for an English merchant. Sir Matthew Holworthy, who in 168 1 
gave one thousand pounds, the largest gift received by Harvard College up to that 



CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 



75 




From a photograph Kindness Mrs. Mary Fifield Kin^ 

EMMANUEL COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE, ENGLAND, 
the college John Harvard attended. 



time; Holden Chapel was built by the wife and daughter of Samuel Holden, M.P., 
who was a liberal benefactor of the CoUege. Massachusetts Hall is the oldest build- 
ing in the University, having been erected by the Province in 1720. It was occupied 
by the American Army during the Revolutionary War and was used for students' 
rooms until 1870, when it was remodelled within and lectures and examinations 
began to be held there. 

The College, founded in 1636, was the only one in the country up to the year 
i6q3, when William and Mary in Virginia was started. Two years after the found- 
ing of the College, the name of Newtown was changed to Cambridge, owing to the 
fact that the town had been selected as the site of the new seat of learning, and 
also for the reason that most of the ministers and leading men of our colony had 
been educated at old Cambridge in England. That the erection of the new college 
was not delayed for many years through lack of adequate funds, was due in no 
small measure to the generous gift of "that gentle and godly youth" John Harvard, 
a young minister of Charlestown, who at his death in 1638 left to the College his 
entire library and one half of his estate, which, it has been estimated, was worth 
about sixteen hundred pounds. Out of gratitude for this splendid gift, as every 



76 



CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 




From pictures in Harvard College Library, Harvard University 



HARVARD MEMORIAL 
CHAPEL AND WINDOW IN 
ST. SAVIOUR'S CHURCH, 
SOUTHWARK, LONDON 

The window was the gift of Hon. 
Joseph H. Choate. The arms of 
Harvard University can be seen 
on the left and those of Em- 
manuel College on the right. The 
chapel, restored by Harvard men, 
was dedicated in 1907, to com- 
memorate the three hundredth 
anniversary of the baptism of 
John Harvard in this church. 
The altar and its ornaments were 
also [jresented by Harvard gradu- 
ates. 



HARVARD MEMORIAL WIN- 
DOW IN THE CHAI'EL OF 
EMMANUEL COLLEGE, CAM- 
BRIDGE, ENGLAND, 

given by Harvard graduates on 
the occasion of the tercentenary- 
celebration of Emmanuel College, 
Cambridge, England. Prof. 
Charles Eliot Norton represented 
Harvard University, and Hon. 
James Russell Lowell, Minister 
to the Court of St. James, repre- 
sented America. 



Kindness William C. Lane, Esq. 

HARVARD HOUSE, THE 
EARLV HOME OE JOHN 
HARVARD'S MOTHER, IN 
STRATFORD - ON - AVON, 
ENGLAND, 

now owned by Harvard Uni- 
versity. The house is sup- 
posed to have been built in 
ijqft by Thomas Rogers, and 
here in the year 1605, Robert 
Harveyc, as the name was 
then spelled, was married to 
Kathcrinc, daughter of 
Thomas Rogers. They were 
the parents of John Harvard. 



one knows, the new college was named after him. John Harvard was one of those 
"Great-hearts of his generation, whom England begot, Cambridge bred, and Em- 
manuel in special nurtured." He was the son of Robert Harvard and his second 
wife, formerly Katherine Rogers of Stratford-on-Avon, who was born in a small 
house there which now belongs to Harvard College, and is known as Harvard 
House, shown in the cut above. His childhood was spent in Southwark, London, 
where in the baptismal records of St. Saviour's Church is found the following 
entry:— 

" 1607 November 29 John Harvye S. of Robt. a Butcher." 



In 1627, young Harvard entered Emmanuel College, Cambridge, that institution 
of which its founder, Sir Walter Mildmay, said, in reply to Queen Elizabeth when 
she accused him of having erected a Puritan foundation, "No, Madam, far be it 
from me to countenance anything contrary to your established laws, but I have 



CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 



77 



set an acorn, which when it becomes an 
oak, God alone knows what will be the 
fruit thereof." Although 

" In vain the delving antiquary tries 
To find the tomb where generous 
Harvard lies," 

nevertheless in 1828, at the suggestion 
of Hon. Edward Everett, the alumni of 
our University erected a granite shaft 
in the Phipps Street Burial Ground, 
Charlestown, at the dedication of which 
Mr. Everett paid him a splendid tribute 
in his dedicatory address. A tablet in 
the Harvard Church of Charlestown, 
formerly called the First Church, is 
placed there to the memory of Harvard 
and other early ministers of the church. 
Some years later, in 1836, at the ban- 
quet held at Harvard to celebrate the 
two hundredth anniversary of its 




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From a picture in Harvard College Library, Harvard 

University 

Kindnas William C. Lane, Esq. 

CUP GIVEN TO EMMANUEL COL- 
LEGE, C.\MBRIDGE, ENGLAND, 

by Har\'ard men in England as a testimo- 
nial of their loyalty to the College of their 
founder. 



Photograph tiikcu J i.' :.':: .;,;.; 

Br ay ion 

GRANITE SHAFT TO THE MEMORY 
JOHN HARVARD, 

in the Phipps Street Burial Ground, Charlestown, 
Massachusetts, where he was buried. This me- 
morial was placed there in 1828 at the suggestion of 
Hon. Edward Everett. On the monument are these 
words: "On the 26th day of September, A.B. 1828, 
this stone was erected by the Graduates of the Uni- 
versity at Cambridge, in honor of its Founder, 
who died at Charlestown, on the 26th day of Sep- 
tember, A.D. 1638." 



founding, the entire company rose to do 
honour to the following toast : — 

"The sacred memory of John Harvard, who 
set the first example, on the American con- 
tinent, of a union between private muni- 
ficence and public education, which has 
bound successive generations, as with links 
of steel, together, and has given to an 
unknown stranger a deathless name." 

Another event of interest connecting Harvard 
College with her founder occurred in 1884 at 
the tercentenary celebration of Emmanuel Col- 
lege, Cambridge, at which time a window to his 
memory was placed in the college chapel, the gift 
of Harvard men. There were present at this 
anniversary Prof. Charles EUot Norton of Har- 



CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 




From iin old print in Ihirvard ColleKf Library, [farvarj University 



Kindness William C. Lane, Esq., and W^iller H. Bri^i 



CHURCH AND PRIORY OF STE. MARIE OVERIE (NOW ST. SAVIOUR'S), 
SOUTHVVARK, LONDON, 

showing London Bridge. In this church John Harvard %vas baptized in 1607, and here his father was 
buried in 1625. Harvard Chapel, given by Harvard graduates, is in this church. Here is also a monument 
to William Emerson, an ancestor of Ralph Waldo Emerson. 



vard University, sent over by Harvard especially for this occasion, and Hon. James 
Russell Lowell, who was at that time American Minister at the Court of St. 
James. That same year there was erected on the Delta in the grounds of Harvard 
University the well-known memorial statue of John Harvard presented by Samuel 
J. Bridge, an alumnus of the University. Two years later, in 1886, at the cele- 
bration of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of the College, 
the college which John Harvard attended was represented by Bishop Mandell 
Creighton, who gave a splendid tribute to the founder of America's great seat of 
learning, a man who was, he said, "at once a scholar, a statesman, a philanthropist, 
a man whom Emmanuel may be proud to have trained, and Harvard may be proud 
to recognize as her founder." Another gift that especially links the old university 
town with the new, is a memorial brass inscription which was placed under the 
Harvard window in Emmanuel College on August 25, 1904, the gift of Harvard 



CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 79 

alumni, and made to perpetuate their gratitude "to their founder in the college 
which fostered his beneficent spirit." The most important memorial, however, is 
the Harvard Chapel in St. Saviour's Church, Southwark, London, dedicated July 
17, 1907, where John Harvard was baptized in 1607 and where his father was buried 
in 1625, the idea having been carried out by Harvard men while Hon. Joseph H. 
Choate was our Ambassador to England. In this chapel is also a beautiful stained- 
glass window, the gift of Mr. Choate. This chapel received in 1909 the gift of 
an altar from Ralph W. Hickox, '72, which was dedicated by the Bishop of South- 
wark, and also altar ornaments presented by Amory A. Lawrence, '70, of Boston, 
and Francis Appleton, '75, of New York. 

An event of great interest to Cantabrigians on both sides of the ocean was the gift 
of a cup during the winter of 1 918 to Emmanuel College by Harvard men in England 
as a testimonial of their loyalty to the college of their founder. There is yet an- 
other connecting link between our Cambridge and John Harvard's early days in 
the form of a stone set in the wall of Appleton Chapel, in Harvard College Yard, 
which came in 1908 from the archway of this same old church in London, which 
Harvard attended. Underneath the stone are the words 

A stone from St. Saviour's Church, Southwark, in which John Harvard 
was baptised, Nov. 29, 1607. 

Mrs. F. P. Kinnicutt of New York was instrumental in procuring this stone. 

It may be well also to mention the recently founded Choate fellowship, which 
enables graduates of the English university to study at Harvard. It would be fitting 
if some one should found a similar fellowship in honour of John Harvard's descendant, 
Lionel de Jersey Harvard, who graduated here in 1915, and then straightway en- 
tered the English Army and gave his life fighting for the freedom of the world. 
There are several pieces of a communion service in Christ Church in our Cambridge 
bearing the arms of King WilUam and Queen Mary which were part of a set given 
to King's Chapel, Boston, in 1694, by these sovereigns. It was used there up to 
the year 1772, when it was divided, Christ Church receiving three pieces. 

Our town of Cambridge, now a city, was founded in 1630 by Governor Winthrop 
and a party of men from Boston, who rowed up the Charles River in search of a 
suitable place to build a fortified town where the goverrmient officials might Uve 
in safety. They landed near the present Harvard Square, and decided that this 
situation was admirably suited for their purposes. The land was then purchased 
from the Mystic Indians for the sum of about fifty dollars and the promise of an 
annual present of a coat to the squaw sachem as long as she lived. The colony 
called "Newetowne" was soon established. Although only three miles inland, at 
that time it was a frontier settlement, and evidence of this fact still exists in the 
clumps of willows standing on college land and adjacent parts of Cambridge, which 
have sprouted from the old stockade used for defence against the Indians. New 



So 



CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 




© ,Ji^/p///((/o/ //^c (o//cd/('j ('/iJ^ (/////'>/ y(/f/c f/f'Olov Ko wf/r/'/n/ 



From BurRis'i engraving of 1726 in Harvard College Library, Harvard Univeruly, puhlishfd by Kitidnea Williarrt C. Lane. Esif. and 
Charles E. C,oothpecd,from origitt^jl in Massarliusetts Historical Society Walter B- Briggs, Esq. 

HARVARD COLLEGE, 1726, 

showing on the right Massachusetts Hall, the latest to be added (1720) to the group ol three buildings 
then composing the College and the only one which remains to the present date. 



lands were added to the settlement about the year 1648, which included our present 
Brighton, Newton, Arlington, Lexington, Bedford, Carlisle, Chelmsford, Billerica 
and part of Tewksbury, the last five towns being withdrawn soon after from the 
Cambridge territory. In 1688, Newton, known originally as "Cambridge Village," 
was formed into a separate township; Lexington, which had been known previously 
as "Cambridge Farms," was separated in 1713, and in 1807 Arlington and Brighton 
were made separate townships. 

In the Cambridge market place in 1636, Rev. Thomas Hooker with a hundred 
men and women of his congregation assembled, with their possessions, including a 
hundred and sixty head of cattle, and after a prayer by the minister, they adjusted 
their burdens on their shoulders, and to the beating of the drum which used to 



CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 8i 

summon them to church, they slowly made their way along the Watertown road 
on their march to Hartford, Connecticut, driving their cattle before them. This 
exodus, so history tells us, was occasioned by the fact that this Puritan minister did 
not approve of the rehgious test for voting. A picture of these wanderers is shown 
on page 152. Before leaving our Cambridge for Cambridge across the water it 
seems fitting to repeat the amusing lines written by Oliver Wendell Holmes de- 
scribing the New England city: — 

" Know old Cambridge? Hope you do. 
Born there? Don't say so! I was, too. 
Nicest place that ever was seen, — 
Colleges red, and common green. 
Sidewalks brownish with trees between, — 
Sweetest spot beneath the skies 
When the canker-worms don't rise. 
When the dust, that sometimes flies 
Into your mouth and ears and eyes, 
In a quiet slumber lies, 
Not in the shape of unbaked pies. 
Such as barefoot children prize." 

It may be well to mention that the press of Harvard College was the first print- 
ing press in this country and for forty years was the only one in the British Colonies. 
It was originally owned by Rev. J. Glover, an Englishman, who embarked for 
this country in 1638, and who died on the way over; but Stephen Daye, who ac- 
companied him as printer, brought the press safely to Cambridge, where it was 
superintended by President Dunster of Harvard College and later was set up in 
the President's house. The present University Press, which traces its origin to the 
old College press, is under the management of Herbert H. White, Esq. 

Old Cambridge on the river Cam, from which it is called, has endured a multi- 
plicity of names: in 875 a.d. it was called Grantanbrycge ; in 1 142 Cantebruggescir; 
in the fourteenth century Cantbrigge; in 1436 Canbrigge, later on being changed to 
Cawnbrege, Cambrigge and Caumbrege, until we come to the present name of 
Cambridge. The old university must have had a modest beginning, for we are 
told that it may ascribe its origin to a traveling teacher who once lectured there 
at the fair and, having attracted a large audience, returned the following year; or 
it may have originated from the monasteries of the Fenland which by degrees 
developed until a corps of masters was secured. We are certain, however, that it 
was a place for student monks at such an early period that there is no precise date 
known. It has also been ascertained beyond doubt that the University dates back at 
least to 1229, the time of Henry III. The college that is of greatest interest to New 
Englanders is, of course, Emmanuel, to which also went Samuel Whiting, Nathaniel 
Ward, Thomas Hooker, Nathaniel Rogers, Thomas Shepard, John Cotton and 
Samuel Stone. It also may be interesting to New Englanders to remember that 



82 CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 

John Eliot attended Jesus College, also that John Winthrop went to Trinity, also 
Charles Chauncey, the second president of the College, and Hugh Peters, as well as 
Bacon, Dryden, Newton, Byron, Macaulay and Tennyson. About seventy of the 
early settlers of New England may, in fact, be traced to Cambridge University, 
England. 

In 1896, Mayor William A. Bancroft of Cambridge, Massachusetts, sent a letter 
of greeting and a history of his city to the Mayor of Cambridge, England, Mr. 
William C. Hall. The letter and history were presented by Alderman Charles P. 
Keith of Cambridge, Massachusetts, and a very cordial letter of thanks was later 
received by Mayor Bancroft from the Mayor of the mother town. 

In closing this article on Cambridge, we can do no better than to quote the last 
two lines of verses written by Rev. John Wilson, which first appeared in Mather's 
"Magnalia" in 1702: — 

"And as old Cambridge well deserved the name, 
May the new Cambridge win as pure a fame." 



CHATHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 

IT is the common belief that the early settlers of Chatham in New England 
named the town for Chatham in England in the belief that the Massachusetts 
town, on account of its commanding position at the heel of Cape Cod, would 
sometime become a government naval station similar to its English counterpart 
on the Medway with its wonderful dock yard. It is a curious fact that this pre- 
diction should in a way have been realized in 1917 when the United States Govern- 
ment established a flying school in the town, which is still continued. It may be in- 
teresting also to recall the fact that it was ofl these waters of our Chatham that 
several of our flyers had a battle with a German submarine. Another possible 
reason for the name was that many of the Cape Cod towns were named for English 
ones. 

The person who was chiefly responsible for the changing of the name from the 
Indian Monomoit to its present one was Rev. Hugh Adams, who went there as a 
minister in 171 1 from our Boston, and who was able in the following year to in- 
corporate the settlement. Mr. Adams remained there some years, finally getting 
into a long and bitter fight with a tavern keeper named Ebenezer Hawes, because 
he claimed the latter placed his tavern too near the parsonage. This old settle- 
ment of Monomoit was originally owned by Wilham Nickerson, of Norwich, Eng- 
land, who, unauthorized by the Plymouth Colony, bought it from the Indians and 
settled there as early as 1656. The Plymouth Court allowed him to keep part of 
his territory and he then estabUshed his dwelling near Ryder's Cove. Nickerson 
had followed the trade of a weaver before coming to New England in 1637 on a vessel 



84 



CHATIL\M, MASSACHUSETTS 



V 



^'^^^ 




Fr,;n „n ,>l,l piinl in thr p,^^tr^u,m of Pnry W.dlon. Etq. Ktn!':: If:, ir ■.■.: I •>■ . / j 

A PROSPECT OF HIS MAJESTY'S ROYAL NAVY, 
lying at the several moorings at Chatham. 

on which Samuel Lincoln, an ancestor of President Lincoln, was also a passenger. 
It is said today that about nine-tenths of the families in Chatham trace their an- 
cestry back to this William Nickerson, and most of the other one-tenth can follow 
their lineage back to either the Eldredge or Taylor families, so frequently found in 
the town's history. Nickerson was in continual difficulties with the Plymouth 
Court as to his possessions, and in 1665 it was ordered that the plantation should 
come within the limits of the township of Yarmouth, a few years later being 
transferred to Eastham. The growth of the new settlement at first was slow, but 
after 1674 Nickerson sold part of his lands to some of his friends, the records show- 
ing that those who came soon after him were John Downing, Thomas Crow (or 
Crowell as he was sometimes called) and Edward Cottle of Salisbury, England, 
who had first Hved in Salisbury and then in Amesbury, Mass. Another early 
purchaser of lands here was Captain James Forster of London, who purchased Morris 
Island, then known as Quitnesset, and who in his will, dated 1686, gave it to his 
sister "Elizabeth Torlton Lately Living in Jacobs Street in Southworke near 
London." This property later came into the possession of Morris Farris for whom 
it was then named. 



CHATHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 



8S 



A person of the greatest importance in the early history of Chatham was the 
Indian Tisquantum, sometimes called "Squanto," who had traded along the shores 
of Cape Cod near Chatham. He was so fond of Englishmen that on his deathbed 
he beseeched Governor Bradford to pray that he might go to the "Englishman's 
God in Heaven" and at the same time he bequeathed much of his property to his 
English friends as a token of his love for them. Charles Francis Adams claims 
that for a certain time he was "the most essential factor in the prolonged existence 
of the Plymouth Colony," as he helped them to grow maize or Indian corn, assisted 
them to fish, and acted also as interpreter and pilot for them. It was through Tis- 
quantum that trading relations were established between the Pilgrims and the 
Indians at Monomoit, and over his grave was cemented between the Colonists and 
their Indian neighbors a bond of friendship which was never broken. He died 
while accompanying the Governor on one of his expeditions and was buried probably 
within the present boundary of Chatham. His loyalty to the English is especially 
remarkable in view of the early treatment he had received, for he was one of the 
group of redskins who had been captured by Capt. Thomas Hunt in 1614 and sold 




(SITE or THE Old 
CHATHAM LIGHTS 
FORTY YEARS «o 
JHfSli6HT HOUSES 
190 FEET f RON THE 

OCEAN. 






r/\BOUT f^lNE MILES S.E. FROM. I 
■this PLACE ARE THE SHOALS 
f POLLOCK 8IP WHIGK 



Pholoiraplml hy C. II. SmtUlkoj! 

"MAYFLOWER" INSCRIPTION IN FRONT OF THE OLD TWIN LIGHTS, CHATHAM. 

M.\SSACHUSETTS, 
marking the point on the coast at which she turned back to I'rovincetown. 



86 



CHATHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 




Photographed by C. U. Smallh.^Jl 

BOULDER AND TABLET MARKING THE PROBABLE GRAVE OF WILLL\:M NICKERSON IN 

CHATHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 

He was the owner of, and the earliest settler in, Chatham, then called Monomoit. He was born in Norwich, 
Norfolk County, England. The tablet reads in part as follows: — 

IN MEMORY OF 

WILLIAM NICKERSON 

ENGLAND 1604— MASSACHUSETTS 1689-90 

BOSTON 1637 — FREEMAN 1638 — YARMOUTH 1640. 

DEPUTY TO GENERAL COURT 1655. FOUNDER OF CHATHAM. 

RELIGIOUS TEACHER — USEFUL CITIZEN — FIRST OF THE NAME IN AMERICA. 

PROGENITOR OF FIFTY THOUSAND DESCENDANTS. 



HIS WIFE 

ANNE (BUSBY) NICKERSON 

ENGLAND 1609 — MASSACHUSETTS 1 686 



THIS TABLET SET UP ON THIS THE PROBABLE BURIAL PLACE OF 

WILLIAM NICKERSON I WITH THE PERMISSION OF THE TOWN OF CHATHAM A.D. IQIS- 

BY WILLIAM EMERY ^^CKERSON OF CAMBRIDGE 9 AMOS 8 JONATHAN 7 JONATHAN 6 

SETH 5 JONATHAN 4 THOMAS 3 WILLIAM 2 WILLIAM I 

(The figures after these names represent genealogical numbers.) 

into slavery. The Indian, however, won the friendship of his captors, learned 
their language, and rendered them very valuable service, finally succeeding in 
reaching England and later Newfoundland, where he was found by Capt. Thomas 
Dermer, an Englishman employed by Sir Ferdinando Gorges, who took him on 
many of his voyages to the Cape. 



CHATHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 87 

It is interesting to recall that the treacherous sand bars which extend for miles 
off the Chatham shore forced the "Mayflower" to abandon her southern course 
around Cape Cod to the Hudson River or the Jersey shore, where the Pilgrims had 
a grant of land, and caused her navigator to turn back to Provincetown. A tablet 
on the shore records this event. Governor Bradford in describing their experiences 
said: "While attempting to finde some place aboute Hudson's River for their 
habitation, but after they had sailed yt course about halfe ye day, they fell amongst 
deangerous shoulds and roring breakers, and they were so farr intangled therwith, 
as they conceived themselves in great danger; and ye wind shrinking upon them 
withall, they resolved to bear up againe for the Cape, and thought themselves 
hapy to gett out of those dangers before night overtooke them, as by God's prov- 
idence they did. And ye next day they gott into ye Cape-harbor." Thus it 
was that New England, instead of New York or New Jersey, became the home of 
the Pilgrims. It is believed that fourteen years before the arrival of the "May- 
flower" a French colony set foot on the Cape, led by Jean de Poutrincourt and 
Samuel de Champlain. 

The Cape Cod town has continually been called upon to assist shipwrecked 
mariners, and as early as 17 11 it was stated that the village "has often heretofore 
been a place of relief to many shipwrecked vessels and Englishmen cast ashore in 
storms." 

The English Chatham, now united with Rochester, is known to us on account 
of its important dockyard with its battleships and its armies of workmen; there 
Peter the Great gained part of his education as a workman, and there also within 
the dockyard is a figurehead of Lord Nelson, taken from one of the old wooden ships. 
Charles Dickens lived in the town for many years. Chatham is situated in 
County Kent on the south side of the Medway and about twenty-seven miles east 
of London. 

There is also a Chatham in New Hampshire and in Connecticut. 

CHELMSFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 

ON the walls of the Adams Library in Chelmsford, Massachusetts, there 
are several framed photographs of Chelmsford, England, for which town 
ours was named, and also a portrait of Lord Chelmsford, once Lord High 
Chancellor of Great Britain. In the year 1905, on the two hundred and fiftieth 
anniversary of the incorporation of the town, an invitation was sent to the Mayor of 
the English town, to which the following reply was received: — 

"Maynetrees, Chelmsford, 
26 April, 1905. 
Dear Sir: — 

I have been hoping that I should be able to accept your very kind invitation to the 
celebration of the Quarter Millennial Anniversary of the Incorporation of your Town. 







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CHELMSFORD. MASSACHUSETTS 89 

Alas! the distance and time form an impassable barrier. . . . Allow me to wish the 
celebration every success. We shall think of you, and offer heartiest greetings in the 
four appointed days. I will send over to you, as you request, one or more specimens of 
our native trees. With repeated thanks and assurance of the peculiar interest which we 
take in your prosperity, 

Very truly yours, 

Walter Payne Gepp, Mayor. 

Walter Perham, Esq., Chairman of Selectmen, 
Chelmsford, Massachusetts." 

Another letter was sent from the English Rector to the American Rector, which 
reads as follows: — 

"Chelmsford, May 15. 
Dear Mr. Waters: — 

May I write to thank you for your very kind letter. I, indeed, wish that it were 
possible for some one from the old home to be with you at your commemoration; but I 
fear that it is not possible. Perhaps the old blood is not so enterprising as the new, but 
it is very difficult to leave the work here for so long a time as a visit to Massachusetts 
impHes. May I, as Rector of Chelmsford in the old Country, offer all who are taking part 
in your Commemoration, the very best wishes. We shall think of you and trust that, as 
such a Commemoration must be a link between all, so it may be a help on to further prog- 
ress, social, moral, religious. I shall like very much to see a paper of your arrangements 
as it will enable me to put a short account in our Magazine, which will help to bring it 
to the notice of our people generally. I am sending one or two specimen photos in this 
envelope. This will, I hope, give a shght idea of the old town. 

Yours sincerely, 
H. A. Lake, Rector of Chelmsford, England, 
Honorary Canon of St. Albans." 

Cables were also received on the day of the celebration. During the four days of 
the festivities there were shown several copies of old engravings of scenes from 
Chelmsford, England, which were sent by Mr. Fred Spalding to Mr. Walter Per- 
ham, the Chairman of Selectmen of the New England town, who, by the way, 
visited the mother town in Essex in 1902. While there he made an examination 
of the records of St. Mary's Parish and discovered that there were in the old English 
town, between the years 1538 and the time of the settlement of our town, a number 
of people of the same name as in our town, or its offshoots, the most prominent 
names being Adams, Butterfield, Spaldyng, Chamberlyne, Fletcher, Parker, Warren 
and Purkis. Edwin H. Warren, Esq., formerly Town Treasurer of our Chelms- 
ford, also visited the town of the same name in England some time in the 70's, and 
likewise Mr. Shurtleff, the Unitarian minister, made a similar visit only a few years 
ago. The Rev. Wilson Waters of our Chelmsford, who gave us this information, 
also mentions that E. Percy Boulter, a resident of the town, and gunner in the 
Canadian Heavy Artillery, made several visits there during the Great War, and 
met the officials of the town. Mr. Waters also speaks of having sent to Canon 
Lake several books relating to our town, receiving from him in return a number of 



CHELMSFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a print 



Kitviness Rev. Wilson Waters 



ALL SAINTS CHURCH, CHELMSFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 



In this church are pictures of St. Mary's Parish Church in Chelmsford, England, and other relics from 

English towns. 

photographs and other objects of interest that are now in the Sacristy of All Saints 
Church. 

During the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary one of the speakers claimed 
that he had a right to be present, as he had an ancestor named Chamberlain who 
was born in Chelmsford but who moved to Billerica, which was also named after 
the English town of Billericay. "He is sorry for it now," said the speaker, "but 
he partly made up for it by going to Concord." 

A few families settled in our Chelmsford as early as 1650, but the first recorded 
movement occurred two years later, when a number of people went there from 
Woburn and Concord. The town was actually settled in 1653. The original 
grant included what is now the large city of Lowell. Our Chelmsford was named 
for Chelmsford, England, as the latter town had been the home of some of these 
early settlers. The President of the United States, John Adams, while in England 
in the year 1786, further confirms this by mentioning in his diary that "Chelms- 
ford was probably named in compliment to Mr. Hooker, who was once minister 



CHELMSFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 91 

of that town in Essex." It will be remembered that Rev. Thomas Hooker had 
been curate of St. Mary's Church in Chelmsford, England. 

The Rev. John Eliot, apostle to the Indians, who did much for the Indians 
living on the Chelmsford grant, at one time taught school near the English Chelms- 
ford. 

The first family that came to settle on the new tract, according to tradition, 
was that of Abraham Parker, a prominent name in the history of our Chelmsford 
even up to the present time. 

The town was not incorporated, however, until 1655, at which time Groton 
and Billerica were also recognized as distinct towns. During the early years of 
the colony Rev. John Fiske, who was once a school teacher in Chelmsford, England, 
was induced to leave Wenham with several families and to take up his residence 
at Chelmsford, thereby greatly assisting the progress of the settlement. Cotton 
Mather, in his "Magnaha," says of him, "Twenty years did he shine in the golden 
candlestick of Chelmsford." The Chelmsford meeting house was erected in 1659 
or 1660 upon or near the site of the present Unitarian Church. Chehnsford fur- 
nished the granite for the first stone block ever erected in the city of Boston and for 
a number of its finest buildings. 

Chelmsford was an important frontier town during the Indian wars, and many 
of her soldiers fought at Concord and Bunker Hill. Five himdred and forty-four 
of her men out of a population of thirteen himdred and forty-one served in the War 
of the Revolution. 

A merchant of Boston in "The Present State of New England," printed in 
London in 1675, relates an amusing incident which took place near Chelmsford: — 

"About the 15th of August, Captain Mosely with sixty men met a company, 
judged about three hundred Indians, in a plain place where few Trees were, and on 
both sides preparations were making for a Battle; all being ready on both sides to 
fight. Captain Mosely plucked off his Periwig, and put it into his Breeches, because 
it should not hinder him in fighting. As soon as the Indians saw that, they fell 
a Howling and Yelling most hideously, and said, ' Umh, Umh, me no slaw merre 
[stay here?] fight Engis man, Engis mon got two hed, Engis mon got two hed; if me cut 
off un hed, he got noder, a put on beder as dis '; with such like words in broken English 
and away they all fled and could not be overtaken, nor seen any more afterwards." 

The English Chelmsford is the shire town of Essex, is twenty-nine miles from 
London, and is celebrated for its corn and cattle markets. Before bridges were 
built, there was a ford across the river Chelmer at this place, and hence the name 
Chelmer's Ford. The name appears in ancient records as " Chelmersforde," " Chel- 
mereford," and " Chehnesford." Its church, which dates from the year 1427, is one 
of the chief objects of interest in the town, and has been made the cathedral of the 
diocese of Chelmsford. A Roman villa was unearthed there in the middle of the 
nineteenth century. 




From oriiinal in Adams Library, Chdmijord, MasiOtliuicUs Kindness Rev. Wilson WaUrs 

CHELMSFORD, ENGLAND, AND THE RIVER CHELMER 




From picture in Ail Saints Church, Chelmsford, Ma^saehuselts Kindnc 

ST. MARYS CHURCH, CHELMSFORD, ENGLAND 

The records in this church show that there were at the time of the settlement of our Chelmsford, many 
names the same as those in the early days of the Massachusetts town. Rev. Thomas Hooker, in whose 
honour Chelmsford, Massachusetts, was probably named, was once curate of this English church. 



CHELMSFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 93 

All Saints Church, Chelmsford, Massachusetts, contains a number of objects 
of interest to us. Within its walls are some curious panels and other ancient carv- 
ings from the church in South Hadleigh, England, which are kept in the Rector's 
study; there are also some carvings on either side of the central arch of the rood- 
screen, which came from Chester Cathedral; also in the sacristy hang some framed 
photographs of St. Mary's Parish Church, Chelmsford, England, which were pre- 
sented by the Rector and Wardens of the English church. 



DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD AND BEDFORD, 
MASSACHUSETTS 

"Not any lovelier spot, I ween, 
Had England's noble captain seen, 
Since, by the Virgin Queen's command. 
From Dartmouth's old historic strand. 
The widespread ocean field to plough. 
He guided forth the ' Concord's ' prow. 
Upon his venturous quest!" 

(Part of a verse written by James B. Congdon on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the 
founding of Dartmouth. The lines refer to Bartholomew Gosnold's e.tpedition.) 

THE part of Dartmouth, Massachusetts, now occupied by the city of New 
Bedford was owned by the Russells, which was the family name of the Duke 
of Bedford, whose EngUsh home, called Woburn Abbey, is in Bedfordshire. 
The first mention of the name Bedford in any of the Dartmouth records was in 
1773 when the following entry occurs: — 

"It was voted to raise by way of tax the sum of Eighty-seven pounds eight shillings 
and four pence Lawful money to defray the charges accrued to said town by Building the 
New Workhouse in Bedford in Dartmouth." 

The story of the naming of New Bedford is a most interesting one. Ralph 
Russell, who came from England, was one of the earliest settlers in the town, being 
engaged in the iron business. He was a progenitor of the Russell famihes of New 
Bedford and was the ancestor of Joseph Russell from whom New Bedford really 
received its name. In 1765 Joseph Rotch, father of William Rotch, moved from 
Nantucket to Dartmouth to pursue the whale fishery and here he met this Joseph 
Russell. These two men met again on some public occasion in 1787, and in talk- 
ing about a possible name for the town, Rotch suggested that the place should 
be called Bedford in honour of a distinguished member of the Russell family, the 
Duke of Bedford. This suggestion was promptly adopted by the rest of the in- 
habitants and from that time on Russell was always referred to as "the Duke." 
It was discovered, however, that there was another Bedford in the state, so that 




From a painting by WiUiam A . IVall 

"NEW BEDFORD FIFTY YEARS AGO" (in 1808) 
The last building shown on the left of the picture was the mansion of WiUiam Rotch, Sr., who is repre- 
sented in the chaise, the only private carriage then in the village. He was the son of Joseph Rotch who 
was one of the founders of the whaling industry which has made the city known throughout the world. 
The large man in the center of the street, called Water Street, is William Rotch, Jr., the leading merchant 
of the place, and the man in conversation with him is supposed to be Abraham Russell, grandson of the 
Joseph Russell, who, with Joseph Rotch, gave the town its name. The two men shaking hands are Captain 
R. R. Crocker and Samuel Rodman, Sr. One of the boys harnessed to the small cart is George Howland, Jr. 




PhotogTiiph oj an old print Kindness I<in Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

E.\ST VIEW OF BEDFORD BRIDGE TAKEN IN THE YEAR 1790 
It crosses the river Ouse, which runs through the center of the town. Tradition says that it was erected 
with part of the materials of the Castle demolished by King Henry III in the year 1224. Bedford Castle 
stood on the right of the bridge. 



DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD 95 

the prefix "New" was added, and the town was, therefore, called New Bedford. 
Joseph Russell, who was born in the old township of Dartmouth, was, therefore, 
the real founder of New Bedford, and he was also the originator of the whale fishery 
there. Francis Rotch has the honour of having launched the first vessel in the 
town, which he named the "Dartmouth." Joseph Rotch, the first of the Rotch 
family who went to Nantucket, later moxing to New Bedford, was bom in Sahsbury, 
England, in 1704. The Indian name of New Bedford was Acushnet, the settle- 
ment having been bought from the Indians in 1652. 

In the early days there was a minister in the town who was very absent- 
minded, and once after the services in the church had started, he remembered that 
he had forgotten Ms sermon. Therefore, he gave out a long hymn to be sung by 
the congregation, and in the meantime he ran home and got his sermon, appearing 
in the pulpit at the right time. 

There have been individual visits of interested citizens to the town of old Bed- 
ford, England, but the oflicial interchanges of congratulations occurred between 
Dartmouth, Massachusetts, and Dartmouth, England, on the occasion of the two 
hundredth anniversary of the incorporation of our Dartmouth. A very elaborate 
programme was carried out, and was participated in by the various towns which 
were formerly parts of our Dartmouth, namely. New Bedford, Dartmouth, Acush- 
net, Fairhaven and Westport. George Rowland, Jr., was Mayor of New Bed- 
ford at the time of this celebration, which took place on September 14, 1864, and 
the notice sent out by him was in part as follows: — 

"Centennial Celebration. 

To the Sons & Daughters of Old Dartmouth abroad, the undersigned on behalf of 
the children at home, send Greeting. 

Two Himdred Years Ago 

' The tracte of land called and known by the name of Acushnet, Ponagansett & Coaksett 
was allowed by the Court to bee a townshippe: — to bee henceforth called and knowne by 
the name of Dartmouth.' The villages which then formed the town of Dartmouth now 
constitute the towns of Dartmouth, Westport, Fairhaven and Acushnet and the City of 
New Bedford." 

The committee appointed to handle the celebration was composed of the following: 
H. J. Taylor, A. G. Pierce, Lemuel M. KoUock, Cornelius Davenport, John W. 
Macomber, Wm. C. Taber, Jr., and Charles H. Gifford. It was voted that an 
address be sent to the Mayor, Recorder, and Aldermen of the city of Dartmouth, 
county of Devon, England, and a very beautiful engrossed return message was 
received by the city of New Bedford, the original of which hangs in the Free Public 
Library. 

Many of the original thirty-six proprietors settled in New Bedford two hundred 
years before, and among them were the families of Rowland, Morton, Kempton, 




From orieinj: in Free I'uhlu I ,l,r,iry, .\ cw Itt.l'.nd, ,\f.is.sa<husells A if:,h:, . i',,,',,.,- II I nip, Esq. 

REPLY FROM DARTxMOUTH, EXGLANU, 

to New Bedford, Dartmouth, Westport, Fairhaven and Acushnet, Massachusetts, on the occasion of 
the two hundredth anniversary of the incorporation of Dartmouth, Massachusetts. 



DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD 97 

Dunham, Shaw, Cooke, Soule, Faunce, Sampson, Delano, Bartlett, Palmer, Doty, 
Hicks, Brown and Bumpass. Among other early settlers are found the names of 
Howland, Hathaway and Slocomb, and in Fairhaven were the families of Pope, 
Taber, Delano, Jenny, Spooner, Tripp, Sherman and Aaron Davis. 

The town was called Dartmouth probably on account of the fact that the " May- 
flower" and the "Speedwell" both put back to Dartmouth, and also because some 
of the earUest settlers of our Dartmouth probably came from the English town of 
the same name. It is also a fact that Gosnold procured his vessel the "Concord" 
in Dartmouth, England. 

A few years later, on July 4, 1876, a centennial was held in New Bedford to 
celebrate the anniversary of the naming of the town, which, as the old deed says, 
was bought from the Indians for "thirty yards of cloth, 8 moose-skins, 15 axes, 
15 hoes, 15 pair breeches, 8 blankets, 2 kettles, i clock, 2 pounds in wampum, 8 
pair of stockings, 8 pair shoes, i tin pot and 10 shillings in other comoditie." It 
may be interesting to record that St. Martin's Church, New Bedford, has on the 
wall of its chancel, with a proper inscription, an old Roman stone that was seen 
by Miss Julia Rodman of New Bedford in the church of the same name in 
Canterbury, England, and which was sent over to New Bedford by the authorities 
of the English church. The font is a reproduction of the one in the English 
church. 

As Bartholomew Gosnold was about to sail from Falmouth, England, in March, 
1602, his parting words to Raleigh were: — 

"My lord, I will hoiste saile, and all the wind my bark can beare shall hasten me to 
find a great New World." 

Although he did not settle in New Bedford his name is thoroughly linked with the 
town owing to the fact that he sailed into Buzzards Bay and made a settlement on 
Gosnold's Island, which is part of the Elizabeth Islands. He named Buzzards 
Bay "Gosnold's Hope," which name was changed later to "Buzzards Bay" by the 
early settlers at Dartmouth on account of the abundance of fish hawks, which in 
olden times were called "buzzards." The whole group of islands today is called 
"Elizabeth Islands," but at the time of his discovery the island of "Cuttyhunk" 
was called by him "Elizabeth" for the Queen. He also named Gay Head "Dover 
Cliff." He remained here only a short time, returning to Exmouth, Devonshire, 
England, but his short stay entitled him to the honour of being called the first 
Englishman to set foot on New England soil and also the first Englishman to es- 
tablish a settlement in the New England states. In 1902 there was held a ter- 
centenary of his landing at Gosnold on the island of Cuttyhunk, and the corner stone 
of a monument was laid which was dedicated in September of the next year, which 
is not only a memorial to him, but to all the other explorers who were inspired 
by him. The shaft of this memorial stands on the exact spot where Gosnold's 



f '. ; '/' ^ //^//J ,/ 'B'E DT OR I>S HIILE . v^v/Z.^-Wa ^.;,^/2i; 










\ 



Photographed from an old print 



By P. Pritk Gr Co., End^mA 



DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD 




From a photos^aph 



GOSNOLD MEMORIAL, 



Kindness George H . Tripp, Esq. 



placed at Gosnold, on an island in a pond on the larger island of Cuttyhunk, near New Bedford, to com- 
memorate the first English settlement in New England. 




l.F.^q. 



From a painting by William A . Wall in the Old Dartmouth Historical Society Kindness George H.Tripp, Esq., an I Frank 

LAXDING OF BARTHOLOMEW GOSNOLD, 

the first Englishman to establish a settlement in New England. He landed at Gosnold, on the island 
of Cuttyhunk, o£f the coast near New Bedford. 



storehouse and fort stood and the corner stone was taken from the original wall of 
the fort laid out by the explorers three hundred years ago. The memorial reads: — 

Tercentenary Memorial 

to 

Bartholomew Gosnold 

and his companions who landed here 

June 4 (O. S. May 25) 1602 

and built on this Islet the First 

Enghsh habitation on the Coast of 

N. E. Corner stone laid June 4, 

1902. Dedicated Sept. i, 1903 on 

the anniversary of Gosnold's death at 

Jamestowm, Virginia. 

The whole island on which this memorial is situated was given to the Dartmouth 
Historical Society by Messrs. Perry, Nye and Swift, who purchased it on account 
of their interest in the event. People of Cuttyhunk jokingly used to say that so 
few people died there that they had to kill a man in order to start a cemetery. At 




From a photo^Tiiph hy Bailey b' Flower Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

DARTMOUTH, ENGLAND, AND THE HARBOUR, 

taken from one of the precipitous hills upon which the town proper is built. The tower is that of the 

Parish Church of St. Saviour. 



ag^-i" 




From an old print by R. Ackermann, iSii Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

DARTMOUTH, ENGLAND, SHOWING DARTMOUTH CASTLE, 

and the Church of St. Petroc as it looked when the Pilgrims sailed by on their voyage to the New World. 

The church is considerably changed today. 



DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD loi 

one time pilots were taken on at Cuttyhunk for New Bedford, and there was such 
rivalry among them that they would watch the incoming vessels from the tops of 
the houses with spyglasses. 

It may be interesting to go across the water and say a few words about Dart- 
mouth and Bedford in England. To the New Englander, Dartmouth in the beau- 
tiful county of Devonshire is second only in interest to Plymouth. To this haven 
the "Mayflower" and "Speedwell," as every one knows, put in to overhaul the 
reported defects of the latter vessel, after the two ships had been at sea only about 
eight days. As it took a week to make the necessary repairs, the Pilgrims had an 
opportimity to familiarize themselves with the town, and we can imagine them 
roaming about the quaint streets of Dartmouth and climbing some of the steep 
hills of the city. The picture on page loo is taken from one of the most precipitous 
of these hills and shows the parish church of St. Saviour in the distance, which dates 
from 1372. The other picture shows Dartmouth Castle and the church of St. 
Petroc as they looked when the adventurers sailed down the river Dart. In this 
picture is also seen the quaint steeple of the church tower which no longer exists. 
The castle in its present condition dates from Henry VII, but other castles both 
Saxon and Norman have previously stood on its site. The church was built in 
the fourteenth century. Dartmouth has had a prominent place in the naval history 
of England, and several colonial expeditions to the Western Hemisphere have set 
out from there, chief of which was that headed by Sir Humphrey Gilbert. 

Bedford is the county seat of Bedfordshire and is situated in an agricultural 
district fifty miles north of London. The country is watered by the river Ouse 
which some one said "winds more meandrous than Meander." Another writer 
said that the river ran eighty miles to reach a distance of eighteen and then adds, 
"Blame it not, if sensible of its sad condition, and presaging its fall into the foggy 
fens of the next county, it be loath to leave this pleasant place; as who would not 
prolong their own happiness?" The name "Bedford" can be traced back to the 
ninth century or earlier, when there was a military station on the river at this point 
called Bedicanford, which was shortened into Bed-an-ford, meaning fortress on 
the ford. Offa, King of Mercia, was buried on the river bank, and this incident 
has suggested to some antiquarians the possibility of another derivation. Bede 
is the Saxon for prayer, or place for praying — hence Bedford may mean the prayer- 
ford or the chapel at the ford. " Bede-houses " were not uncommon at that time 
and when built near a ford or bridge they would suggest a prayer for a safe passage. 
A castle was built after the Norman Conquest by the third baron of Bedford who 
was involved in many of the internal struggles of England. One of the most memor- 
able occasions was the siege conducted by Henry III, and some of the stones thrown 
during the siege were used to build parts of the churches of Bedford. The barony 
of Bedford was given to John Plantagenet, third son of Henry IV, who was created 
Duke of Bedford and became Regent of France for the English. The chief part of 



I02 



DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD and BEDFORD 




From a Painting by IVilliiim A . Wall in tite Free Public Library, New Bedford, Massachusetts Kimlnc^^ George 17. Tripp. Esq. 

BIRTH OF THE WHALIXG INDUSTRY, XKW BEDFORD, JIASSACHUSETTS 

This city is known the world over as ha\ing been the leading whaling port of America. This painting 
represents the first whaling carried on from here in sloops, and the scene is laid in the lower river where 
the blubber was brought ashore to be tried out. Indians are bartering for the oil. 



the monastic property was bestowed upon the Russell family with the Earldom of 
Bedford. In 1694 the dukedom was restored by William III in consideration of 
the services of the family for civil and religious liberty, and the title continues to 
this day. 

The name best known in connection with Bedford is that of John Bunyan who 
was born in 1628 in the nearby village of Elstow in the house which is still stand- 
ing and which is shown on page 103. The church nearby has two memorial 
windows to Bunyan illustrating his "Pilgrim's Progress." There is a tower in the 
church which contains a chime of bells upon which Bunyan practiced the art of 
bell ringing which was indulged in so much by the English at that time. Bunyan 
was possessed of the Puritan spirit and became deacon of a non-conformist body 
in Bedford. He was put in jail for twelve years "because he strove to mend souls 
as well as kettles." In his church is a door with scenes from "Pilgrim's Progress" 
given by the Duke of Bedford. After his death which occurred in London in 1688, 



DARTMOUTH, NEW BEDFORD a,id BEDFORD 



103 




From a photosmph Kindness Mrs. Mary Fifitld Kins 

JOHX BUNYAN'S COTTAGE, ELSTOW, NEAR BEDFORD, ENGLAND 

He was born in this house in 1628. There is a statue to him in Bedford and memorials in the church near 

his house. 



many Puritans for years afterwards begged for the privilege of being buried as near 
his grave as possible. There is a bronze statue of Bunyan in Bedford and on the 
pedestal is the following inscription: — 

Presented to the 

Borough of Bedford 

by 

Hastings IX Duke of Bedford 

June 10, 1874 

The town of Bedford, Massachusetts, in 1892 or 1893 sent a copy of its history 
to Bedford, England, which was acknowledged by F. A. Blaydes, ]\Iayor, February 
2, 1893, who said in his letter, — "I shall be very pleased to send to your public 
Library a copy of my work 'Genelogia Bedfordiensis. ' " This was duly received 
and is now in the Bedford Library. 



I04 



DEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 

"Across the winding Charles, 
From this sturdy Rock of renown, 
You discern the sloping roofs 
Of yon quaint old Dedham town." 

AS Edward Alleyn, Richard Everard (the old name for Everett), John Gay, 
/\ John Ellis and Samuel Morse were paddling up the Charles River in the 
■^ ^ year 1635, they complained that there were so many turns in the river that 
it seemed to get them nowhere. They were, however, much impressed with this part 
of the country and succeeded in obtaining from the General Court at Newtowne 
(later called Cambridge) a grant of a tract of land south of the Charles River to 
twelve men, including themselves, and this grant was later increased so that it in- 
cluded the present Dedham, Norwood, Westwood, Dover, Natick, Needham, 
Wellesley, Walpole, Medfield, Medway, Millis and parts of Hyde Park, Readville, 
West Roxbury, Sherborn, Bellingham and Franklin. It was agreed among these 
first settlers, whose numbers soon increased, that every married man should have 
a house lot of twelve acres of land, and as early as 1654 there were as many as 
ninety-five small houses along the river near the location of the present Court 
House. These early settlers wanted to call the plantation "Contentment" and 
this name was actually written in the town records of the first two meetings and 
still appears on the seal of the town, but the name was soon changed to " Dedham " 
in honour of the three Johns — John Dwight, John Page and John Rogers — who 
were among the early comers. The best known of these three was Rogers, who 
with some of his friends had come over from Dedham, England, having been for- 
bidden to preach in the town of his birth, and it was this fact undoubtedly that 
induced the General Court to name the settlement Dedham. John Dwight was 
a forbear of the late President Dwight of Yale University. There are a number of 
other Johns in the early town records, including John Kingsbury, John CooUdge, 
John Gay and John Ellis. Others who came from England were John Allin, 
who was a pastor in the new town; Major Eleazer Lusher, leader of the train 
band and one of the founders of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company; 
Captain Daniel Fisher, a selectman; Michael Metcalf, school teacher; Joshua 
Fisher, tavern keeper; Deacon Francis Chickering and Samuel Guild. Many of 
these families still hve in the town. Those who settled in West Dedham, now called 
Westwood, were Avery, Baker, Colburn, Fales, Farrington, Kingsbury, Wright 
and Wilson. Major Lusher was one of the most prominent of these pilgrims, and his 
duty was to keep the town records, which he did so well that it was later said of him, 

' ' When Lusher was in office, all things went well. 
But how they go since, it shames us to tell." 




From " Barber's Htslorkal Collections " 

SOUTHERN VIEW OF THE COURT-HOUSE IX DEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 







L 

From an old print 



a /^V--/''- v^^^^^^iC*!^^^ '^^y^<:- 



Courtesy of The Dedham Club, formerly the Ucdkam I'jIo Club, Dailuim. M ass -ic/iu sells 



NORFOLK AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY'S EXHIBITION, 

held in Dedham, Massachusetts, sixty or more years ago. The grounds were near Dedham Common, 
on what is usually called the Nickerson propert)'. Mrs. Nickerson, who lived here, married the late 
Admiral Hood of the Royal Navy. 



io6 



DEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 



The records of the town are complete from the first entry made by him in 1635 to 
the present time, a fact which can be said of few towns of Massachusetts. 

The old Fairbanks house was erected by Jonathan Fairbanks soon after the 
settlement of the town and has been in the family ever since, a place of interest to 
thousands of tourists annually. 

Curiously enough, another minister of the same name lived in the English 
Dedham at almost the same time that John Rogers came to Dedham, Massachu- 
setts; their relationship has never been definitely determined, but the latter may 
have been a brother or cousin of Nathaniel Rogers, son of the Rev. John Rogers, 
who never came to this country, and whose name appears on old Dedham records 
up to the year 1651. The former had been preaching to large congregations in 
Dedham church, near the beginning of the seventeenth century, but had been 
continually persecuted. He did much to encourage emigration to New England 
and so did his son Nathaniel, who was instrumental in naming our Ipswich, Haver- 
hill and Chelmsford for the towns near his home in England. The church in 
Ipswich, America, for one hundred and fifty years was presided over by descend- 
ants of John Rogers. When he died in England he was widely mourned. In 

the churchyard of the Dedham Parish Church 
of old Dedham is a tombstone to mark his burial 
place and around the margin the following words 
in Latin were deciphered some years ago: 

I, John Rogers, a preacher of the Word of God, 
42, in this place 31 years . . . my work being 
finished, I have resigned my soul . . . my body 
... I wait for the dav . . . Aged 65, October 
18, 1636. 

In the center the following words are still left 
although the rest of the inscription has been 
obliterated : — 

True-hearted worshipper of God, 
No Boanerges more courageously 
Gave forth his thunder, and no Barnabas 
Spake with more dulcet tone than he. . . . 

There is also a bust of him in the Parish Church 
on the south chancel wall. There is another tab- 
let to the memory of Daniel Sargent Curtis, who 
was born in Boston in 1825 and who hes buried 
beneath the tablet on the outside of the south wall. 
Old Dedham existed before it was called Ded- 
ham, before Essex had become the land of the 
East Saxons, and before the country was known 




PholOgraph hy I', irtlll L'- ( n . I:nil,in.l 

Kindness Ian Forbes-Rohertson, Esq. 

BUST OF REV. JOHN ROGERS, 

in the parish church of Dedham, Eng- 
land. He may have been a relative of 
the John Rogers who was one of the 
three men in whose honour Dedham, 
Massachusetts, was named. His son, 
Nathaniel, was instrumental in naming 
Ipswich, Haverhill and Chelmsford, 
Massachusetts. 







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/^ro/M .1 ^/-in/ in //re Dedkam Historical Society, Dedham, M assachuseits 

THE "VALE OF DEDHAM," ENGLAND 

This print is from a painting by John Constable, who was closely associated with old Dedham and the 

neighboring towns. 



io8 



DEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 




From " Picturesque De^lham: Essex" 

Published by The Claclon-on-Sea Graphic Printing &• Publishing Co., Ltd., Clacton-on-Sea 

DEDHAM STREET, DEDHAM, ENGLAND 



Kindness Mrs. \fary Fifield King 



as England, or by the older name of Britain. The river Stour on which the town 
is situated was nameless for many centuries. When Cassar invaded Britain in 55 
B.C. the region near Dedham was thickly inhabited by a tribe called Trinobantes,this 
country later being known as Middlesex and Essex. The Trinobantes submitted to 
Caesar, who restored their native prince to the throne. The old Romans made no 
permanent conquest until ninety years later, when they established a Roman station 
in Dedham called "ad Ansam" or "Roman Dedham." The Saxons settled near 
Dedham and called it "Home in the Valley." The first information of old Dedham, 
as of most English places, is derived from a survey made in the time of William the 
Conqueror contained in the Domesday Book, and here we find an account of the 
Manor of "Delham" (as it was then called) as it was at the death of Edward the 
Confessor in 1066. In these early days it belonged to "Aluricus Camp," meaning 
.(Elfric the Champion, and later it fell into the hands of the Normans under Roger 
de Ramis. Here many Flemings were encouraged by Edward III to come and 
teach the English the art of making cloth. Dedham played an important r61e in 
Henry VIII's matrimonial adventures; he gave the town to Catharine of Aragon 
on their marriage, but immediately transferred the property to his later wife Anne 



DEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 



109 




From ^^Picturesque Dedham; Essex" 

Published by The Clacton-on-Sea Graphic Printing &r Publishing Co., Ltd., Clacton-on-Sea 

DEDHAM CHURCH, ENGLAND 



Kindness Mrs. Mary FiHeld King 



Boleyn, and still later gave it to Jane Seymour, another of his wives. On the exe- 
cution of the latter, the King gave Dedham to his brother-in-law, Charles Brandon, 
Duke of Suffolk, later transferring it to his minister, Thomas Cromwell, and when 
the latter fell, another wife of King Henry, Anne of Cleves, became possessor of 
these lands. 

The picture of the "Vale of Dedham" on another page is from a print taken 
from one of the paintings by John Constable, who has always been closely asso- 
ciated with Dedham and the neighboring towns. In his boyhood he worked 
for his father, who was a miller, and the young lad could be seen every day in his 
white suit and hat on his father's cart going to and from the mill. He went to the 
Grammar School at Dedham where he showed especial skill in penmanship. His 
master noticed his pupil's talent, and on several occasions during his lessons there 
would be a long pause which was broken by the master, who would say: " Go on; 
I am not asleep. Oh, now I see you are in your painting room!" Constable spent 
most of his early days working for a glazier and painter. He died in London. He 
made his reputation by his English landscapes, and his "Cornfield" and "Flatford 
Mills" are recognized by all Dedhamites as nearby scenes. When asked once 
what style he intended to imitate, he said, "None but God Ahnighty's style." He 



DEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS iii 

thought he came into the world to convince mankind that nature was beautiful, 
and he often used to say, "I love every stile and stump and lane in the village; as 
long as I am able to hold a brush I shall never cease to paint them." His painting 
of "Dedham Hill," showing the conspicuous and attractive Dedham church tower, 
is in the Sheepshanks collection in the South Kensington Museum. 

Edmund Sherman and his wife are buried in old Dedham churchyard. Rev. 
W. F. Cheney of the Church of the Good Shepherd of Dedham, Mass., who preached 
in the parish church of Dedham, England, on July 17, 1892, corroborates the fact 
that this Edmund Sherman was an ancestor of Gen. William T. Sherman, some 
members of the family having come to our Boston as early as 1634. The family 
tomb is in bad condition and at one time there was a movement on foot to renovate 
it. 

There is also a Dedham in Maine, and one in Tennessee. 



DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

"It was Thanksgiving Day, and the sea-meadows lay 
In long russet curves round old Dorchester Bay; 
The sturdy oak mansions had opened their halls, 
The chimneys had smoked on the Mystic and Charles, 
And Grandfather Minot looked out on the Sea — 
The last of the Dorchester Pilgrims was he — 
And he leaned on his cane, and he said, 'They are gone. 
The Pilgrims who sailed on the ''Mary and John," 
That old Thanksgiving Day, 
Into Dorchester Bay. 

I love the strange tales of the Pilgrims of yore. 
And of those who first landed on Dorchester's shore. 
How they sang on the sea! They are gone, all are gone, 
The Pilgrims who sailed on the "Mary and John;" 
On that Old Summer Day, 
Into Dorchester Bay. 

Give thanks for such men on the Thanksgiving Morn, 
Such heroes as sailed on the " Mary and John," 
Let the bells ring today 
Around Dorchester Bay.'" 

(Part of poem written by Hezekiah Butterworth on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the 
First Parish Church in the Town of Dorchester.) 

TWO attractive tablets, the gift of Deacon Henry Humphreys, one on each 
side of the doorway of the First Parish Church of Dorchester, Mass., 
honour the Rev. John White and his friends, whom he persuaded to come 
over to this coimtry in 1630 to found a colony in our wilderness. Rev. John White, 
who was known to his contemporaries as the " Patriarch of Dorchester " and to later 



112 



DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



DORCHESTER 

NAMED 

FROM IHE TOWN OF DORCHESTER. 

IN DORSET ENGLAND. 

The Fir.st sclllcr.^ 
.srtilcd front Plyinoiilh, EnC^lAnd 

in Liic Mt\rv dnd John, 

(one of the Winthrop Fi''cl.) 

Me.rch 20, 163O. 

Arrived at Nanl<iskc'l,(nowHull)jM<\y30, 
And Idndcd in Dorchesler - 
June (3. 1630. 

THF FIRST CHURCH OF THIS PARISH 
W\S BUILT NEAR THF CORNER OF 
COTTAGE AND PLEASANT STREETS. IK I 6 jl 

sf;coni) ciiLkcii blilt, i546 

RE>\0\ m TO MEF.TINC, HOUSE HILL, 1 67O 

miRnc iiuRCH BUILT, 1677 

FOUR HI CHURCH BUILT, j/'V} 

FIFTH CHURCH bUIIT, |H|6 

SIXTH CHURCH BUILF, I8f)() 

PiPM nil J In Dcocon Ht'nrv llunii'lip \i 



FIRST PARISH 

DORCHESTER 
1630 

Church formed in Plymouth England 
under the (guidance of 

REV. JOHN VVHEFE 
of Dorchester England 



MINISTERS 



RE\; JOHN WARHAM ^ 

JOHN M.WERICK '^ ' 

RICHARD MATHER 1636 - 

JOSIAH FLINT I67I - 

JOHN UANFORTH I682 - 

JONATHAN BOWMAN 1729 - 

MOSES EVERETT 1774 - 

THADDEUS M.HARRIS 1793 - 

NATHANIEL HALL I&35 - 

SAMUEL J. BARROWS 1 876 - 

CHRISTOPHER R.ELIOT l882 - 

EUGENE R.SHIPPEN I894 - 

ROGER S.FORULS I9O8 - 

HARRY I O.STLR BURNS 1918 - 



IG35 

1669 
1680 
1730 
1773 
1793 
IS36 

I&75 
1880 
1&93 
1907 
1917 



F'om a photograph 

TABLET 

IX THE FIRST PARISH CHURCH, 

DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, 

in memory of the early settlers of the town. 



l*resent€d by Deacon Honrv- Humphreys 

^ '. J 

BvF.A. FriztU 

TABLET 
IN THE FIRST PARISH CHURCH, 
DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, 

in memory of Rev. John White, with the names 
of all the ministers of the church from his time. 



writers as the "Father of the Massachusetts Colony," had previously interested 
himself in encouraging the settlement at Plymouth and had furnished money to 
the settlers here, also urging at the same time many of the old Dorchester fishermen 
to make voyages into American waters. His failure at Cape Ami in 1624 only 
stimulated him to new undertakings, and we soon find him, with about one 
hundred and forty of his friends, in the New Hospital at Plymouth (shown on page 
113) where they spent the night previous to saiUng for America. White himself 
did not come over on the "Mary and John," but preached to them just before 
sailing. Among the notable passengers were Captain Roger Clap, Henry Wolcott, 
an ancestor of the late Governor Wolcott, Thomas Ford, George Dyer, William 



DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 




From an old print 
Photographed by F. A . Frizell 



Kindness Mrs. Mary Fifield King 
and Rev. B. F. Burns 



"THE NEW HOSPITAL," PLYMOUTH, ENGLAND, 

the building (taken down in 1869) in which the members of the First Church in Dorchester gathered 
before sailing in the "Mary and John," March 20, 1629-30, for Dorchester, Massachusetts. This picture 
hangs in the Minister's Room in the First Parish Church of Dorchester, Massachusetts. 



Gaylord, William Rockwell, William Phelps, Israel Stoughton, George Minot, 
George Hall, Richard Collicot, Nathaniel Duncan, Captains John Mason and 
Richard Southcote. Much to their disgust Captain Squeb landed them in Hull 
on May 30, 1630, instead of near the Charles River where they hoped to disembark. 
Some of their number, therefore, rowed up the Charles and settled at Charlestown, 
but the larger part of the colony landed at Savin Hill, Dorchester, then called Mat- 
tapan. This was the second parish in the colony and the third in New England. 
The settlement was called after the old town in England, for the reason that among 
the early settlers " were some from Dorset Shire and some of ye town of Dorchester" 
and they furthermore wished to do special honour to the Rev. Mr. White, who was 
the Rector of St. Peter's Church and who held this position for forty years. In 
appreciation of this great man, Richard C. Humphreys, a member of the First Parish 
Church in our Dorchester, and some of his friends, placed in the parish church of 



DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 115 

St. Peter, old Dorchester, where his body lies, a memorial tablet shown in the cut 
on page 119, the inscription on which reads as follows: — 

In this Porch lies the Body of the Rev''. John White, M.A., of New 
College, Oxford. He was born at Christmas, 1575. For about forty 
years he was Rector of this Parish, and also of Holy Trinity, Dorchester. 
He died here 21 July, 1648. A Man of great Godliness, good Scholar- 
ship, and wonderful Ability and Kindness. He had a very strong 
sway in this Town. He greatly set forward the Emigration to the 
Massachusetts Bay Colony, where his name hves in unfading remem- 
brance. 

The first winter in America was exceedingly cold and Judge Sewall wrote that 
the communion bread was frozen pretty hard and rattled sadly in the plates 
during church service. In these early days Dorchester included MOton, Dedham, 
Hyde Park, Canton, Sharon, Foxboro and part of Stoughton, all this land being 
known to the EngHsh as the "land beyond the Blue Hills." Other settlers came 
over from Weymouth, England, to Dorchester, in 1633, and at this time, three years 
after the establishment of the plantation, it was the richest in the colony. 

The old church in our Dorchester is most attractive, and contains a number of 
relics of interest both to Englishmen and Americans. The clock in the vestry, of 
Chinese design, dated 1770, came from England; the pulpit also came from England, 
and was used in the old West Church in our Boston until it was given up, when 
the pulpit was presented to the Dorchester meeting house. There is also a Bible 
of the time of King George III, which is still in use. There is also an attractive 
memorial room to Mrs. Emily A. Fifield, whose family came from the town of 
Fyfield, England. This room contains the old key of Fyfield Church and a copy 
of the Rev. John White's book "The Tree of Life," which was written in 1647 
and given to the church by William Taylor of London. This book contains advice 
to the colonies and is very rare. The church, too, owns most of the original records 
which were started in the earliest times and which have been continued up to the 
present time. The old Pierce house in Dorchester contained some furniture 
which came over with the early settlers, but these rare articles were sold about 
a year ago. The Pierces also owned a piece of bread which was brought over in 
the " Mary and John " and which is now preserved by one of the descendants. 

Since 1855 there have been two anniversaries in Dorchester to commemorate 
the settlement of the plantation. The first one was held on Easter Sunday, March 
28, 1880, to commemorate the gathering of the Church in England and its departure 
for America, and the second was held on June 17th of the same year to commemo- 
rate the anniversary of the planting of the church in Dorchester, and the settlement 
of the town, which took place June 6, 1630. This second celebration was attended 
by Governor John D. Long of Massachusetts, who in his speech referred to the 
fact that there was also a John Long who had been a resident of Dorchester, Eng- 



ii6 



DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a pholograph Kirulnf-i EJii'jr,! .1 . Buebcner, Esq. 

ANCIEXT ROMAN PAVEMENT AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE DORCHESTER HIGH SCHOOL, 

DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

It was originally a section of the "Fosse" or Roman Way laid by the Romans in Dorchester, England, 
after they had subjugated the Britons in 55 B.C. It was secured by the Dorchester High School in igos 
through the enterprise of Charles J. Lincoln, Esq., then principal of the school, and the late Richard C. 
Humphreys, Esq., president of the Dorchester Historical Society. It was discovered when the crypt of 
All Saints Church, Dorchester, England, was being repaired and was presented to Dorchester through the 
kindness of the Rev. S. E. V. Filleul, rector of the church. It is composed of red and white cubes of 
various sizes enclosed within a brass border and is almost ten feet long and six feet wide, containing about 
nine thousand blocks. 



land. In the church on this occasion were some roses from roots brought over 
from England in the early days, and also other flowers that had come from Plym- 
outh and other towns in England. The vestry was hung with pictures of Dor- 
chester, England, which were loaned by Rev. E. G. Porter of Lexington, Massa- 
chusetts. The following telegram from the Mayor of Dorchester, England, was 
read during this celebration and was followed by great applause: — 

"Old Dorchester sends cordial congratulations to New Dorchester upon its two hun- 
dred and fiftieth anniversary and warmly reciprocates its affectionate attachment." 

The town of Windsor, Connecticut, which was founded by settlers from our Dor- 
chester, was also represented at this meeting. In the minister's room in our Parish 
Church are many interesting pictures of Dorchester, England, and on pages 113, 
118 and 119 we give illustrations taken from these prints. 

In 1904 and 1905, after considerable correspondence, our Dorchester received 
part of an old Roman pavement which was discovered while the crypt of All 
Saints Church was undergoing repairs, and it seemed appropriate that young 
Dorchester should have some legacy from the early home of so many of her pioneers. 
The Dorchester High School finally became the possessor of this historic relic and 
it was placed in the floor within the entrance of the school, and the following tablet 
nearby describes it : — 




From d pholo^raph by Bernard Griffin 



Kiiidncsi Ian i' or bcs- Robert ion. Ei 



HANGMAN'S COTTAGE, DORCHESTER, ENGLAND 
In the early days Dorchester kept its own hangman. 




A irtdniss Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SIR THOMAS HARDY, O.M., THE NOVELIST, BOCKH.AMPTON, 

DORCHESTER, ENGLAND 

John Lothrop Motley also lived and died near Dorchester. He was a relative of the Motleys of Boston, 

Massachusetts 



ii8 

r 



DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 




Unrrlu'Sli-r, 
Photographed hy F. A , Frizell from a print in the Minister's Room of the First Parish Church, Dorchester. Massachusetts 

Kindness Mrs. Mary Fifield King and Rev. 17. F. Burns 

ST. PETER'S CHURCH, DORCHESTER, ENGLAND 
Rev. John White, who organized the colony that came to Dorchester, Massachusetts, in 1630, is buried in 
this English church, of which he was rector for many years. The tablet which was erected to his memory 
by residents of Dorchester, Massachusetts, and which is shown in another cut, is in this church. 



The 

Tessellated 

Pavement 

below 

was originally laid in Dorchester, England, during 

the Roman occupation of that country 

55 B.C.-410A.D. 

It was discovered while 

repairs were being made in 

the crypt of All Saints Church 

and through the kindness of 

Rev. S. E. V. Filleul 

The Rector of that Parish 

was received by the friends of 

the Dorchester High School 

and was placed in its present 

location March 

1906 



DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



119 



There are also some colored pictures of old Dorchester below this tablet. This 
pavement is composed of red and white cubes of various sizes, and contains about 
nine thousand small blocks. It is to the efforts of Mr. Charles J. Lincoln, then 
principal of the Dorchester High School, and the late Richard C. Humphreys, for 
many years president of the Dorchester Historical Society, who cheerfully bore the 
expense of the removal of this pavement, that we are indebted for this old relic. 

Interchanges also took place between the two towns in 1855, and in anticipa- 
tion of the celebration the committee in charge of the event sent a very friendly 
letter to the Mayor of Dorchester, England, parts of which are as follows: — 

"Your place being the residence of many of our progenitors, and from which this 
town derived its name, we address you with an affectionate interest. It is comparatively 
but a few years since our ancestors left their quiet home and launched forth upon the 
ocean, to make a new home for themselves and posterity, and to take up their abode in 
this then inhospitable wilderness of savages and wild beasts. . . . We believe that this is 
almost the only country ever settled that had not the lower motive of gold, plunder, or 
conquest, for its paramount object. ... It is supposed that this town was called Dor- 
chester, on account of the great respect of its early settlers for Rev. John White, a clergy- 
man of your place at that time, and an active instrument in promoting the settlement 
and procuring its charter. They 
sailed from Plymouth, England, 
March 20, and arriving May 30, 
1630, they came in the ship Mary 
and John, Capt. Squeb, and were 
finally settled down here as a 
body politic about June 17, 
1630. They were reinforced 
from time to time, and many 
remained here only for a short 
period, and then went to other 
places and made new homes. 
It is estimated that there are 
now living, in this country, two 
hundred thousand persons who 
are descendants of the early 
settlers of this town. . . . The 
inhabitants of this town propose 
to celebrate the 79th anniver- 
sary of our birthday as a nation, 
on the coming July 4th. Hon. 
Edward Everett, a native of this 
place, and late Minister Pleni- 
potentiary to Great Britain, will 
address the assembly. The sons 
and daughters of the town, 
wherever scattered, are invited 
to come to their ancestral home 
and unite with us on this occa- 
sion. It is too much for us to 
ask that a delegation might be 
sent from your Borough to add 



t -A 

In 

THIS Porch 

LIES THE Body or 

THE Rev? JOHN WHITE MA 

OF NEW COLLtCEOXFOlM) 

'He vcas born «t Christmas it75 
'fokxbovt forty years k v/hs rector of 

THIS P«ISH MO XSO OF HOLY TRINITV DORCKSTER."^ 
HE DIED HERE 21 JVLY. I648. 

¥l S M»iof crest Codlikesscooi) Scholarship. AM) 

' .WOWERFVLABILITY AN>Kll\DNESS.HEHAPA " 

. VERYSTKONCSW^It IN THIS TOWN.HE GREATLY 

SET FOR**P Tl£ EMICMTION TO THE 

MxsACHvsETs Bay Colony.o'iere 

HIS N*IE LIVES IN VlfADIMC 

Remembrance. 



From a picture in the Minister's Room in the First Parish Church, Dorchester, 
Massachusetts 
Kindness Mrs. Mary Fijidd Kins and Rev. H. F. Burns 

TABLET IN THE PARISH CHURCH OF ST. PETER'S, 
DORCHESTER, ENGLAND, 

placed there in memory of Rev. John White, by residents of 
Dorchester, Massachusetts. He is called the "Patriarch of Dor- 
chester," as he was instrumental in sending a colony to our 
Dorchester in 1630. 



I20 



DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



to the interest of this festival; but 
should one or more of your citizens 
whom you would approve be in this 
countr}', it would give us great pleas- 
ure to have them attend as our 
guests. . . . distance is computed by 
time and not space, so that you seem 
neighbors as well as friends, and by 
this epistle we reach forth across the 
ocean and offer you the right hand 
of fellowship. 

signed by Edmund P. Tileston 
Edmund J. Baker 
Ebenezer Clapp, Jr. 
Wm. D. Swan 
Wm. B. Trask 
Wm. H. Richardson 
James Swan 
Samuel Blake 
Edward Holden" 

In answer a return message was 
received, part of which is given 
below: — 

" Your letter, which as Mayor it 
fell to my lot to receive, has created 
a feeling of interest amongst us, and 
we welcome with great cordiality the 
communication from those whom we 
may style kinsfolks. I have caused 
your letter to be printed, and have 
circulated it amongst such persons 
especially as are likely to assist us 
in our inquiries on the subject of it. . . . We feel that we cannot furnish you with an 
account of our town and neighborhood in such a manner as we would wish, in time for 
your anniversary but we hope by the Soth anniversary to be able to collect a portfolio 
for you, which, if you wish, we shall gladly forward to you. I have already a nucleus of 
the collection. . . . Mr. White's name is still known in the Borough and there are still 
names amongst us enumerated by you. . . . Our design is to furnish you, if acceptable, 
with full description of the town and neighborhood, accompanied by such views as we 
may be able to procure or furnish to illustrate our account. We do not think we can do 
this with justice to the subject before next summer, but if you will then accept it as a 
pledge of good feeling and good fellowship, it is humbly at your service. 

Signed Thomas Coombs, Mayor." 




Photograph by Berturd Grijin Kindness Ian Forbes- Robertson, Esq. 

REM.\IXS OF THE HOUSE IX DORCHESTER, EXG- 
L.\ND, IX WHICH REV. JOHX WHITE LIVED 

It stands behind the parish church and is now used as 
an ironmonger's workshop. 



During the recent war an invitation was sent to American soldiers from Dor- 
chester who should pass through England, to accept the hospitality of the English 
borough, a courtesy much appreciated. 

Minot and Humphreys were two of the early settlers in new Dorchester and it 



DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



121 




f>i:ol!y.'r.tf>fi Kindness Lin Forbes-Kabertsun, Esij. 

HIGH STREET WEST, DORCHESTER, ENGLAND, 
showing St. Peter's Church in background. 



is said that these lines appeared on the former's tomb in the old Upham's Corner 
burial ground : — 

Here lie the bodies of Unite Humphreys and Shining !Minot, 
Such names as those, they never die not. 

In the cemetery at Upham's Corner, Dorchester, there is a tablet in memory of 
the early settlers who are buried there, also some old EngUsh tombstones similar 
to those in Plymouth, Massachusetts. 

The old seal of the town is an interesting one; on it appears the old thatch-roofed 
meeting house, also the Blue Hills which served to pilot these early settlers to our 
harbour, and the triple towered Castle placed there in memory of the Castle in 
Dorchester, England, which was copied from the seal of the old town of Dorchester, 
England. The most recent interchange between the two Dorchesters is the stone 
sent towards the latter part of 1919 by Rev. Grosvenor Bartelot, M.A., Vicar of 
St. George's, Fordington, Dorchester, England, to Rev. Simon B. Blunt, Rector 



122 



DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



uf All Saints Church, Dorchester, Massachusetts. This stone is to be set in the 
top of the altar. The English Rector writes that this stone formed a part of the 
ancient stone altar of his Church which dates back to the year 1 200 or earlier. 
An altar was found in Dorchester, England, which records that Dorchester was 

a flourishing Roman settlement 
before the invasion by the Sax- 
ons. The Romans called it 
Durnovaria which meant 
"water way" or "channel." 
The old town has some in- 
teresting places, which include 
the Roman walls and the am- 
phitheatre called "Maumbury 
Rings," which is one of the 
finest in England and goes 
back to the time of Agricola. 
There are also the large earth- 
works of Maiden Castle. The 
cut on page 117 shows Hang- 
man's Cottage, which is one of 
the sights pointed out to visi- 
tors. At one time it would 
seem that the mother town 
was not over virtuous, as the 
records show that the hang- 
man was kept very busy. The 
house of Judge Jeffreys, who 
was called the "Bloody Judge," 
is also pointed out to the sight- 
seer. John Endicott was bom 
in Dorchester, England, and 
Sir Thomas Hardy, the novel- 
ist, and Barnes, the poet, both lived there. Another interesting fact is that John 
Lothrop Motley, the historian, who was born and lived in our Dorchester lived 
and died in the English Dorchester. The town is supposed to be a place of health- 
giving quaUties, if we judge by the remark made by one of the physicians of the 
town who said that a "doctor could neither live nor die in Dorchester." 




Pfwlograpk hy F. A . FrizfU K in<ine\^ Mrs. (!. F. Piene 

PIECES OK BRE.\D AND CORN-COIi, 

brought to Dorchester, Massachusetts, by Robert and .\nn 
Pierce in the "Mar>' and John," in 1O30. These relics of the 
early settlers have been in the Pierce family of Dorchester, 
Massachusetts, ever since. 





- <5, ,, «. .i « «• ■ ' _, 





Frohi an old print hy J . Mallon. lygo In the possession of a Boston coUeirtnr 

VIEW OF THE PARLIAMEXT HOUSE AND COLLEGE GREEN*, DUBLIN, IRELAND 




From a print pubiished by T. S. Roberts, ijgO 



BLARNEY CASTLE, 
near Dublin, Ireland. 



In Ike pifiiemiin of a Boston collector 



124 



DUBLIN, NEW HAMPSHIRE 

HENRY STRONGMAN forms the connecting link between Dublin, New 
Hampshire and Dublin, Ireland. He was born in the Irish capital and was 
the only one of the original Scotch-Irish settlers to remain permanently 
in this New England town. These facts furnish us with sufficient proof that the 
name Dublin was given in his honour, the previous name having been " Monadnock 
No. 3." The late Thaddeus Morse has corroborated this reason for the naming 
of the town, for he describes hearing a discussion concerning this subject when he 
was a boy, and he remembered that "the name Dublin was chosen because the 
earliest settlers were Scotch-Irish and the capital of their native country was Dublin." 
Strongman was a weaver by trade, came to this country about 1736, lived in Boston 
for a short time, and then moved to the vicinity of Deerfield, Massachusetts. Soon 
after, his family became the fifth to take up a residence in Dublin, New Hampshire. 
In the year 1800, the several branches of the family changed their name to Strong. 
The first meeting of the incorporated town was held in 1771, although the name 
Dublin may have been used previously. The first board of selectmen chosen at 
this meeting in addition to Strongman, comprised Thomas Morse and Benjamin 
Mason, Joseph Greenwood being elected town clerk. Strongman is described as 
being well educated and most helpful to the town in its early days. Morse was 
supposed to have been the first permanent English settler in this attractive New 
Hampshire town. 

This territory was settled many years before 1771, a deed dated November 3, 
1749, having been given by Colonel Joseph Blanchard, Jr., of Dunstable, by power 
vested in him by the proprietors, by vote of a meeting held in Portsmouth, New 
Hampshire; this grant ran to Matthew Thornton, Samuel Stoddard and thirty- 
eight others. The allotment of land and drawing of shares took place on the first 
Tuesday of June, 1750, at Dunstable. The first settler was William Thornton, a 
brother of Matthew, and one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, 
who stayed, however, only a short time, and who had a daughter born there named 
Mollie, the first white child born in the town. A tablet was erected in the town 
about twenty-five years ago to his memory. About ten years later some Scotch- 
Irish families came from Londonderry, New Hampshire, to Peterborough, New 
Hampshire, and several of them moved over to Dublin, among them being John 
Alexander, William McNee, Alexander Scott, with his son William, and James 
Taggart. A number of people also moved to Dublin from Sherborn, Massachu- 
setts, and also from Natick, Medfield, HoUiston, Framingham, Temple and Am- 
herst, until in the year 1775 there were three hundred and five settlers in Dublin 
as compared to twenty-three voters five years before. Most of these settlers, how- 
ever, came from Sherborn, and the greatest friendship has always existed between 



DUBLIN, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



"5 




From an old print 



In the possession of a Boston collector 



Dedicated by permission to his Exe^ the Right Hon"' CHARLES EARL WBITWORTH, C.C.B. Lord Lieu' of Ireland, and Grand 
Master of the Order of S Patrick by his respectful &• Obedient Servant (Signed) James Del Veechio 

CASTLE OF DUBLIN 

In the center is seen the New Castle Chapel, on the right the Treasury, on the left the entrance to the 
Ordnance Office and avenue leading to Great Ship Street. 

the two towns, resulting in 1771 in the gift of a communion set to the church in 
Dublin by a Mrs. Whitney of Sherborn. The one hundredth anniversary of the 
settlement of Dublin was held on June 17, 1852. 

Of the ancient capital of Ireland on the river Liffey, Thackeray said, as he 
looked at the \'iew from Carlisle Bridge: — 

"beautiful the Four Courts and dome to the left, the Custom House and 
dome to the right, vessels on the river, the scene animated and lively." 



Carlyle also visited Dublin and described the terrible week that it took him to sail 
there from England. Another description of the city was given by the well-known 
Irishman, George Moore, who said there were four objects of interest, the Castle, 
Shelbourne Hotel, the Kildore Street Club and Mrs. Rusville, the fashionable 
dressmaker of that time. It was there also, in Hoey's Court, in Castle Street, where 
Jonathan Swift, Dean of St. Patrick's, was born in the year 1667, though no trace 



126 DUBLIN, NEW HAMPSHIRE 

of the building can be seen today; and in this cathedral so closely associated with 
Dean Swift, lie side by side his body and that of Stella, whose real name was Esther 
Johnson ; she was married to Swift, but this fact was kept a secret to the day of his 
death. Sir Walter Scott in speaking of St. Patrick's Cathedral, declared that the 
church was Swift's tomb and that his face could be seen in every corner. 

The history of Dublin Castle is said to be practically the history of Ireland after 
the twelfth century. It has been claimed that Dean Swift almost burned it up by 
trying to read there in bed one evening. King Henry II presented Dublin to five 
hundred citizens of Bristol, who came over to view the newly acquired possessions, 
but their reception was not very cordial, for they were attacked by the hill people, 
who killed all of them. At the beginning of the thirteenth century, Fitz Henry 
determined to erect a strong fortress on Cork Hill, and began therefore to build the 
ancient castle of Dublin, of which so much has been written. In its chapel the 
Viceroy and his court held sway and received the fashionables of the City. The 
great balls, the acme of a debutante's desire, were held in Beefeaters Hall in the 
Castle and there we are told that the ladies who wanted to dance were placed in 
rows or tiers reaching all the way from the floor to the ceiling, an arrangement 
described as "being in paradise." On these occasions great etiquette was enforced 
and only persons of sufficient social prominence were allowed to meet the King's 
representative. The more recent balls were given in St. Patrick's Hall, and here 
the annual festival in honour of this Saint was held on every March seventeenth 
at which the Lord Lieutenant was always obliged to go through with the formality 
of "drowning the shamrock," and on this day of carnival all made merry. In the 
evening St. Patrick's Ball took place. Here also levees were held once a year, and 
all the "belles and beau.x" of Dublin drove to Cork Hill, one of the greatest "belles" 
of her day being the daughter of Sir Da\'id and Lady Roche. In the nineteenth 
century Dublin was the second capital in the British dominions and was such a 
center of fashion and gaiety that the Viceroy's Court exceeded the brilliancy of that 
of George III. We are told that of all the viceroys the Duke of Abercorn, who 
gave most wonderful dinners during the season, was the most magnificent, and 
second to his entertainments were the fancy dress balls given by Mrs. Guinness, 
which are described as being most attractive. 

To the little theatre in Smoke Alley came many of the leading actors and actresses 
of the day, including Garrick,Peg Wofiington, Fannie Kemble and Mrs. Siddons. 
The scene after the theatre let out has been described as one of great commotion, 
for the lane was very narrow, and the sleepers nearby were much disturbed at the 
noise, and could be seen with their heads out of the windows, swearing at the audi- 
ence as it filed out, the torch bearers, the coachmen and the footmen. 

Some writers have claimed that Dublin, called both Dublana and Eblana in 
the olden days, resembled London, and certainly College Green with its attractive 
buildings as shown in the cut reminds one of the English capital ; this Green once 



DUBLIN, NEW HAMPSHIRE 127 

formed part of a village called Hogges or Le Hogges, from the word Hoge, meaning 
small sepulchral mounds, found there during the time of Charles I. The word 
Dublin is derived from Dhu-b-linn, meaning "the black or dark pool," its name in 
ancient days having been Baile Atha Cliath. 

There is an interesting legend in connection with St. Patrick and the ford over 
the river Liffey ; as the Saint was going home to Armagh he stayed in the city over 
night and while there his hosts complained of the bad water, whereupon it is claimed 
he caused a fountain to spring up at a place near the present site of St. Patrick's 
Cathedral which was entirely restored at one time by Benjamin Lee Guinness. 

The Danes continually landed and sacked the town and in 840 the people of 
Dublin erected a fortress on the same place, probably, where the Norman castle 
was later built. In the next century the same troublesome tribe was beaten by 
Malachi II, who as Moore wrote "wore the collar of gold, that he won from the 
proud invader." 

Trinity College Library, the Royal Irish Academy and the Royal Dublin So- 
ciety are some of the most important organizations of the city, the Dublin Horse 
Show being an annual event known the world over. A memorial was erected in 
Sackville Street to Nelson in 1803. 



FALMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 

" ARE you a man of Kent?" was usually the first question asked by the people 
/\ of County Kent, England, when they met a stranger, and if one could 
^ JL answer in the affirmative, he was considered of very superior quality. In 
the early history of our colony a company of persons arrived in Scituate, Massa- 
chusetts, from this county in England and, in describing their landing, the Massa- 
chusetts Historical Society Collections say that "Scituate, indebted to the sub- 
stantial character of some of its founders, many of whom it is evident came from 
Kent, England, soon became a respectable town, which superiority it maintained to 
-the latest annals of the colony." There is a street in Scituate called "Kent Street" 
that still recalls to us these early settlers from that county. Part of tiiis Scituate 
company removed to West Barnstable and began the settlement of that town in 
1639. Some years later, in 1660, some of this colony again moved from Barn- 
stable to Falmouth. They arrived in boats and landed between Fresh and Salt 
Ponds, where they lived, until their homes were constructed, near " Consider Hatch's 
Pond," called "Sider's Pond" for short. Most of the names of these Fahnouth 
settlers were Scituate and Barnstable names and include the families of Hatch, 
Robinson, Chapman, Jenkins, Hamlin, Lothrop, Nelson, Cobb, Hinckley and 
Bacon. When these first settlers arrived in Falmouth the wife of Jonathan Hatch 
unexpectedly gave birth to a son and when asked what she would call it, she replied. 



FALMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 129 

"He was born among the flags and his name shall be Moses," and from that time 
until now this name has been a familiar one in the town. 

Falmouth across the seas is on the river Fal, as its name implies, and is an at- 
tractive seaport in Cornwall built on very steep hills. There has been much rivalry 
between this town and Plymouth which caused a Falmouth writer to say: "Like- 
wise as Plymouth vaunteth richer and fairer towne and greater plenty of fish than 
Falmouth, so Falmouth braggeth that a hundred sayle (sail) may anker within its 
circuit and no one of them see the other's top, which Plymouth cannot equal." 
Falmouth is an important port and many noted persons have frequented it. Lord 
Exmouth, who was a Pellew and whose family were at one time well known in 
Maryland, sailed on the waters of the harbour, as did also Nelson and other famous 
admirals; the news of the great victory of the Nile was brought to this seaport 
first. It is interesting besides to remember that Napoleon on his way to St. Helena 
put in there. Falmouth was noted chiefly as having been the leading port of the 
packet ser\ice, and the following lines give an excellent idea of the town during 
these flourishing days which lasted for about one hundred and sLxty years. 

"We past in sight of St. Maurs, a little fishing town on the east of the bay, and 
anchored about noon at Falmouth. There is a man always on the look-out for the packets; 
he makes a signal as soon as one is seen, and every woman who has a husband on board 
gives him a shilling for the intelligence. . . . The perpetual stir and bustle of this inn is as 
surprising as it is wearisome. Doors opening and shutting, bells ringing, voices calling 
to the waiter from every quarter, while he cries 'coming' to one room, and hurries away 
to another. Everybody is in a hurry here; either they are going off in the packets, and 
are hastening their preparations to embark, or they have just arrived, and are impatient 
to be on the route homeward. Every now and then a carriage rattles up to the door with 
rapidity which makes the very house shake. The man who cleans the boots is running in 
one direction, the barber with his powder-bag in another; here goes the barber's boy 
with his hot water and razors; there comes the clean linen from the washer- woman; 
and the hall is full of porters and sailors, bringing in luggage or bearing it away; — now 
you hear a horn blown because the post is coming in, and in the middle of the night you 
are awakened by another because it is going out." 

This packet service started in the year 1688 and really made the town of Falmouth. 
A few brigs also were sent to Spain, Portugal, New York, the West Indies and other 
ports, the "Mercury," which sailed to New York, being particularly well known. 
The ships were small and have often been referred to as "bathing machines" and 
"coffin ships." One of the well-known captains was John Goodridge who took a 
great interest in America and at one time owned land in Albany, New York. There 
was a packet memorial erected in Falmouth in 1899, ^nd a few of the old packet- 
men were on hand to witness the celebration. The inscription reads: — 

To the memorv' of the gallant officers and men of H. M. Post Office 
Packet Service sailing from Falmouth 1688-1852. 

Also in the library is a list of the packets and their commanders and the places to 
which they sailed. There are also tablets in the Falmouth and Mylor churches. 



130 FALMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 

Our chief interest, however, in connection with this English town is that Bartholo- 
mew Ciosnold, the first Englishman to found a colony in New England, sailed from 
this port to America. 

One of the objects of interest in Old Falmouth is Pendennis Castle which was 
built by Henry VIH, and which has always been closely associated with the Killi- 
grews, who were styled "the Lords of both fort and town" and who were believed 
to be invincible. A member of this family has been governor or owner of this 
Castle for generations. When coaches first came in, one of the Killigrews made 
the remark that it was "more like flying than rideing." In this Castle the Prince 
of Wales, afterwards King Charles II, took refuge in the "King's room" and after 
a long siege the stronghold was obliged to surrender. 

Sir Walter Raleigh, who figured so prominently in the history of England during 
this great epoch, was the first to draw attention to the possibilities of the harbour. 
In his time only two houses stood in the town, which was then known as"Smithick." 
In later years, it was called "Pennycomequick," a word derived from the Celtic 
Pen-y-cum, meaning "Head of the Vale," and "wick," signifying the Saxon for 
village. It was not, however, until the time of King Charles II that the town was 
called Falmouth by Royal proclamation. The Russell and Rogers families were two 
of the most important in the town, — Captain Rogers of the Royal Navy being 
distinguished for gallantry in the year 1807. 

In the old days there was a doctor in old Falmouth in whose diary has been 
found the following amusing entry: "Did this day administer to old Mrs. Jones 
for her ague." The next day: "called on Mrs. Jones and found she had died in 
the night in much agony. N.B. Not use . . . again 1" 

There is also a Falmouth in Maine, from which the territory of the present 
Portland was taken. 

GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

' ' Gloucester is fair, yes wondrous fair 
For artist's brush, or poet's pen. 
Yet still its wealth beyond compare 
Is in its race of sturdy men." 

THE English names of city, town, stream and street in New England will 
be lasting memorials to the love borne by the early settlers on these shores, 
for the beautiful English towns which they had left behind them. Glouces- 
ter is another example, for between the quaint old cathedral city of Gloucester, 
England, and the picturesque seaport of Gloucester, Massachusetts, there still 
exists this strong bond of kinship and friendliness. One of the first invitations 
issued by the officials of our Gloucester on the occasion of the two hundred 
and fiftieth anniversary of its incorporation, in 1892, was to the Lord Mayor and 



GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



131 




From Report of the 250th A nniversary of the Town of Gloucester, Massachusetts 



Kindness A lien F. Grant, Esg, 



THE ALBUM PRESENTED IN 1892 BY THE MAYOR AND TOWN COUNCIL OF GLOUCES- 
TER, ENGLAND, TO GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, AND NOW IN 
THE CITY HALL OF THE LATTER PLACE 

It contains views of the English city and was sent on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary 
of the incorporation of Gloucester, Massachusetts. 

Town Council of Gloucester, England. A beautifully embossed parchment reply 
was received, expressing their appreciation of the invitation and regret at being 
unable to accept it, the message being addressed to Mayor Asa G. Andrews of 
Gloucester, Massachusetts, by Hon. James Piatt, Mayor of the English city: — 



' ' Dear Mr. Mayor, — 

In common with all the members of our City Council, I appreciate very much the kind 
invitation of your citizens to be present at the celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth 
anniversary of Gloucester, Massachusetts. It would have given me great pleasure to 
have been able to accept the honour and to participate in the celebration, but the time is 
not convenient for me, as our musical festival commences on September 6th, and I must 
be present on the occasion. We have also just entered into the occupation of our new 
Guild HaU which takes up a good deal of my time for the present. It would have been 
all the more pleasant to me, as I have some little knowledge of }'our city and experienced 
the hospitaUty of one of your predecessors. Mayor WilUams, in the summer of 1882. 
Our City Council have resolved to send you an address of congratulation which they 
will sign, and also an album illustrating various objects of interest in our city, present 
and past. Wishing you a very successful celebration and continued prosperity, I remain," 
etc. 



132 



GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 




pyom Krport of the 2<;nth Anniversary of the Town of Gloucester. Massachusetts 



Kinlness Allen F. Gr,int, Fstj. 



EXTERIOR VIEW OF THE ALBUM PRESENTED BY GLOUCESTER, ENGLAND, 
TO GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

The album referred to in this letter was presented to Mayor Asa G. Andrews at the 
Mayor's luncheon on August 25th, by John Piatt, Esq., son of this Mayor Piatt of 
Gloucester, England ; the younger Piatt was present at the anniversary celebration 
and took a prominent part in its observance. This beautifully illustrated album, 
now in City Hall, is bound in Russia leather, and on the outside is a silver plate 
on which are engraved the words: — 

"Views of Gloucester, England, 1892." 



On the inside of the cover is the following inscription : — 

"Presented by the Citizens of Gloucester, England, to the Citizens of 
Gloucester, Massachusetts, on the 250th anniversary of the incorpora- 
tion of the town, August 1892." 




Photographed joT the State Street Trust Coinpiiny By George B. Brayton 

TABLET AT STAGE FORT PARK, GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, 

placed to commemorate the first English settlement there. 




- V,. - - 



m^ 



HUStIT 



Hax 1 I >i A>; 



.ll>\ t^. Vrtl ' .l,n.tt-.\. . 







Photographed for the State Street Trust Cam^ : >■ By George B. Brayton 

LARGER \IFAV OF TABLET OX ROCK AT STAGE FORT PARK, GLOUCESTER, 

MASSACHUSETTS 



134 GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

During this anniversary week cablegrams were exchanged by the mayors of the 
two cities, thereby further cementing the friendship that existed between the Bay 
State city and its English counterpart. Mayor Piatt has several times visited our 
Gloucester. Further correspondence ensued between the two towns, as shown 
below : — 

"At a quarterly meeting of the Council of the City of Gloucester, England, held at 
the Guildhall, on Wednesday, the 2Sth day of July, 1909, James Bruton, Esq., Mayor, 
in the chair, the following letter from Gloucester, Massachusetts, was read: — 

Gloucester, Mass. 
July 6, 1909. 
The Honorable The Town Council, 
Gloucester, England. 

Geutlenicii: 

The preliminary announcement for Gloucester Day, Wednesday, August 4th, has 
been forwarded to you. In behalf of the Committee I am pleased to extend you a cordial 
invitation to visit Gloucester on that day as the guest of our people. As you will see, the 
principal event will be the evening pageant and play. 'The Canterbury Pilgrims' is 
based upon the Canterbury Tales of Geoffrey Chaucer, and must especially appeal to you. 
The Pageant as it will be presented in our city will be the most ambitious so far attempted 
in this country. We wish that it may be possible for you to honor us on this occasion, 
and we can assure you that your welcome will be one that you will remember with pleasure. 
Might we ask also for a word of greeting to be given at the Pageant in case you could 
not accept our invitation. 

With sincere regards. 

Yours truly, 

Fred W. Tibbets, Secretary." 

to which the following reply was sent: — 

"Guildhall, Gloucester, England 
23rd July, 1909. 
Dear Sir, 

I beg to acknowledge receipt of your letter of the 6th instant inviting the Council of 
this city to visit Gloucester, Mass. as the guests of the Citizens on 'Gloucester Day,' 
August 4th, 1909, on the occasion of a Festival in honour of William Howard Taft, Presi- 
dent of the United States; and I also thank you for the separate invitation sent to me 
personally. ... I am quite sure the Members of the Council would very much like to 
attend the Festival and that they would be specially interested in the Pageant and Play 
'The Canterbury Pilgrims,' though they would need no such inducement to visit Glouces- 
ter, Mass., if able to do so, as they are mindful of the friendship which has so long existed 
between the two Cities and the very cordial welcome which has been extended to some old 
Gloucestrians who have visited your City. 

On behalf of the Members of the Council and my fellow citizens, I heartily thank you 
for your very kind invitation, and I sincerely ho[)e that the visit of the President of the 
United States and the success of your Pageant and Play may cause 'Gloucester Day,' 
1909, to be long remembered as a red-letter day in your City. 





Photographed Jor the State Street Trust Company by The PItelps Studio 



Kindness Allen F. Grant, Esq. 



PORTUGUESE CHURCH, GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, 

called "Our Lady of Good \'oyage." The V'irgin Mary is holding in her arm a Gloucester fishing vessel. 
Over the door is shown another model of a vessel. Once a year a service is held here known as "The 
Crowning," which is described in the text. 



136 GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

Trusting that some Members of the Council may be able to visit your City on some 
future occasion, and with the assurance that any of your Citizens will ever receive a cordial 
welcome in this City, I am 

Yours ver\' faithfully, 
Fred W. Tibbetts, Esq., ' James Bruton, Mayor. 

Secretary ' Gloucester Day ' Committee, 
Gloucester, Mass." 

In 1915, John J. Somes, Esq., the present City Clerk of our Gloucester, gladly 
accepted the offer of Hon. W. J. Johnston-Vaughan, an ex-Mayor of Glouces- 
ter, England, to send to our city a bell made in the old Gloucester Bell Foundry, 
one of the most important foundries in the Kingdom in medieval times. This bell, 
marked "1779" and "T. R." for the founder's name, now hangs in the corridor 
of City Hall in our Gloucester with a suitable card below indicating how it came 
into the possession of our city. 

In 1899, Captain Howard Blackburn of our Gloucester, who had lost most of 
his lingers on the fishing grounds, sailed alone a small boat about thirty feet long 
from Gloucester, Massachusetts, to Gloucester, England, where he was received 
by the officials and others of the town, among whom were the members of the firm 
of Fielding and Piatt, the latter a relative of the Piatt who is described above as 
having come over to our Gloucester to attend one of the celebrations here. Cap- 
tain Blackburn carried with liim a letter from the Mayor of our Gloucester and 
while in the English Mayor's office his attention was called to a framed address 
hanging in that office which had been sent by Mayor William W. French of Glouces- 
ter, Massachusetts, acknowledging receipt of the album sent to our city. The 
captain was entertained at the Gloucester Theatre and over his box floated the 
Stars and Stripes, and in the evening Yankee Doodle was played. 

The first Englishman to plant his foot on the soil of Gloucester was Captain 
John Smith who landed here in the year 1614, and called the point "Tragabig- 
zanda" which was soon changed to Cape Ann by Prince Charles in honour of his 
mother, Anne of Denmark. Captain Smith was much interested in the fishing 
industry, and wrote home to England, "Is it not pretty sport to pull up two pence, 
six pence, or twelve pence as fast as you can hale and veare a line?" Gloucester 
was originally settled three years after the Plymouth Colony by a group of colonists 
from Dorchester, England, who came there in the year 1623 to establish a fishing 
industry. The Cape Ann town, however, was not incorporated until 1642, when 
it was given the name of Gloucester either in honour of its first minister Richard 
Blynman or in memory of the English city on the Severn from which many of the 
pioneers had come that year; it is an interesting fact that many of the leading 
citizens of the city at the present time are descendants of the original settlers, among 
them being the families of Parsons, Sargent, Conant, Wonson, Babson and Tarr. 
This small fishing settlement grew steadily until it is today the largest fishing port 
in this country and it was quite fitting that a memorial should have been erected in 



GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 137 

honour of these sturdy men who founded this industry in Gloucester. The me- 
morial, which consists of a bronze tablet set in a huge boulder, was placed near 
Half Moon Beach on Fishermen's Field, now called Stage Fort Park, near the place 
where the early settlers landed, where the fishing stages were placed, where the 
first house, that of Roger Conant, and the First Church were situated. The in- 
scription on this beautiful tablet is as follows : — 

On this site in 

1623 

A Company of Fishermen and Farmers from Dorchester, Eng. 

under the direction of Rev. John White founded 

THE MASSACHUSETTS BAY COLONY 



From that time, the Fisheries, the oldest industry in the Commonwealth, 
have been uninterruptedly pursued from this Port 

HERE IN 1625 GOV. ROGER CONANT BY WISE DIPLOMACY 

AVERTED BLOODSHED BETWEEN CONTENDING FACTIONS 

ONE LED BY MYLES STANDISH OF PLYMOUTH 

THE OTHER BY CAPT. HEWES 

A NOTABLE EXEMPLIFICATION OF ARBITRATION 

IN THE BEGINNINGS OF NEW ENGLAND 



Placed by the citizens of Gloucester, 1907. 

Two hundred and sixteen vessels were enrolled in the town in the year 1916, carry- 
ing a total crew of about 3,000 men, and the value of the catch from the early days 
to now totals over $500,000,000. Great, however, has been the sacrifice of human 
life, as those know who have watched in vain for the return of their loved ones, 
for between the years 1830 and 1916, four thousand five hundred and thirty-four 
men were lost at sea from this port. 

"On a sea in a night that with horror is crazed 
With the torture and passion and fury of storms, 
On an old fishing-craft that is beaten and dazed." 

There are two very interesting and impressive ceremonies which take place in 
Gloucester each year connected with the fishing industry which, we believe, are 
unique in this country. One of these, known as "The Crowning," was inaugurated 
two decades ago by Captain Joseph P. Mesquita, one of the foremost fishing cap- 
tains of this noted fishing port. After having been delivered from extreme peril 
at sea, he vowed that each year at the Feast of the Pentecost he would consecrate 
himself to the Lord in gratitude for this deliverance by carrying out a ceremony 
similar to that held for years in Portugal, from which country came many of the 
ancestors of Gloucester's fishermen. He and the members of his crew donated 
funds to purchase in Lisbon, Portugal, a silver crown surmounted by a dove to 
be used in carrying out his vow. The ceremony usually begins with a procession 
from his house to the Portuguese Catholic Church of Our Lady of Good Voyage 
headed by Captain Mesquita bearing the crown. When the church is reached. 



138 



GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 




STAGE FORT, THE FIRST SETTLEMENT AT GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, 162,5 
A tablet on the boulder at the right records this fact. 



the crown is received by the priest, and the Captain and other persons who have 
prepared themselves for this ceremony by special prayers for the week preceding, 
follow him to a place before the altar where, after High Mass is celebrated, the 
crown is lowered on the heads of those participating in the ceremony, solemn 
thanks being offered to the Holy Ghost for past blessings with prayers for a con- 
tinuation of His favor. The dove surmounting the crown is a svTnbol of the 
Holy Ghost, and the crown is a reminder of Queen Elizabeth of Portugal, who at a 
time of great famine in her country was so charitable to the poor and ministered to 
their wants with such a holy spirit that she was later canonized. In further remem- 
brance of the good works of this Queen, many loaves of sweet bread are prepared, 
and these, after being blessed by the priest, are distributed among the people 
present at the ceremony, each man, woman and child in the audience receiving 
a loaf. One selected loaf of immense size is especially decorated for the celebrant. 
The other ceremony, which is held under the auspices of the Gloucester Fisher- 
men's Institute, consists of a memorial service for the men of the city who have 

gone down to the sea in ships 
never to return. The school- 
children with arms laden with 
flowers proceed to the bridge 
over the Squam River, just out- 
side the city, and after an 
appropriate service the flowers 
are cast on the waters and are 
carried out to sea, the beau- 
tiful thought behind this cere- 
mony being that the flowers 

rl <'f the ^^Olh Anni.tr .iTV ,■! I'lr i ,>.i'lt 1!' Cii'U> ''^Irr, \l ' . . 1 11 1 ^1 1 

Kindnt,. Allen / . Gran,. Es^. «hall scck the unknown graves 

ROGER CONANT HOUSE, FIRST HOUSE ERECTED ^^ the victims of Neptune's 
IN GLOUCESTER, AT STAGE FORT, IN 1623 wrath. 




GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



^59 




From an old print in the Islesboro Inn, Dark Harbour, Maine 

GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



. Dairid B. Smith 



Many are the quaint superstitions which have arisen from Gloucester's famous 
industry, for instance: fishermen believe that if they accidentally drop a cake of 
ice overboard when preparing for a fishing trip, they will have good luck and a full 
fare, but if they turn a hatch bottom up or drop it into the hold, they will meet 
the direst misfortune throughout the voyage, and may consider themselves indeed 
fortunate if they ever see land again. They will also tell you that 

"Sunday sail, never fail; 
Friday sail, ill luck and gale." 

And so, in spite of the other flourishing industries that have sprung up in Gloucester, 
it will always be as the quaint, picturesque old fishing port that we shall think of 
her, and her name will bring to our mind, not the picture of her granite quarries 
or her cementworks, but a vision of the old docks lined with smartly rigged fishing- 
craft and tramp steamers, and as we Usten there comes to us the sound of 

"The chimes a-striking, sweet and low, 
While softly, sweetly, gently steals 
The lullaby of drifting keels." 

Our Gloucester is also known as the town where the name "schooner" was first 
given to a vessel, the word being suggested by a bystander who exclaimed, "See 
how she scoons!" 



I40 



GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 




Fr m The Ltty of Gloucc'^ter" England by John Jennings Brunsutck Road Ghufc ter hm^land Photoi,raphed b\ Gt '>ri:c B. 

ANCIENT WEST GATE HOUSE AND BRIDGE, GLOUCESTER, ENGLAND, 

as in the time of George III. 



Back of the town is an abandoned settlement named Dogtown, so called be- 
cause of the fact that towards the end of the seventeenth century the women settlers 
near the seacoast, for better protection, were sent several miles back into the country 
with their dogs. Dogtown today, with its huge primeval boulders, its sunken cellars, 
and its grass-grown streets, is a weird, romantic, and pathetic place, a world be- 
witched, as one of the few visitors there expressed it. In this unique settlement 
there were supposed to be many witches, the names of Judy Rhines and "Tammy " 
Younger, the "Queen of the Witches," being the more often quoted in the Dog- 
town legends. The latter was supposed to be able to bewitch a load of wood so 
that it wouldn't stay on the o.x team until part of it had been unloaded at her door, 
and it was also claimed that she exacted a certain amount of fish when a vessel 
came in or, otherwise, she would bewitch the next catch. This settlement, one 
of the few ruined towns of America, so little knov\Ti to either the visitor or the native, 
and now completely deserted, was once the home of the ancestors of some of the 
best citizens of Gloucester and Rockport. 

Some of the settlers of our Gloucester as early as 1650 moved to and founded 



GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



141 




Photograph by A. B. File her 



Kindness Ian Forbes-Eohertson, Esq. 

COLLEGE COURT, GLOUCESTER, ENGLAND, 
showing the First Sunday-school. 



New London, Connecticut, and in 1727 were responsible for the settlement of Fal- 
mouth, Maine, and a few years later of New Gloucester also in Maine. 

Gloucester, England, is a city of great antiquity. It was first called "Caer 
Gloui" before the Romans came to Britain, being the site of an important fort they 
called "Glevum," which was changed by the Saxons to "Glow-ceastre," "Glewan- 
cester," and " Glew-ceastre " from which the present name "Gloucester" is ap- 
parently derived. The name was supposed to suggest "Fair City." Many relics 
of the Roman days have been discovered, including coins of the Emperor Claudius, 
who came to Britain and pushed his conquest toward the interior of the island. 
A monastery was founded in 6-jq and in 1022 Bishop Wolstan of Worcester es- 
tablished the Benedictine rule there. In 1541 the diocese of Gloucester was con- 
stituted, with the Abbey Church for its Cathedral. From the early days, Glouces- 
ter seemed to be marked for distinction. In 577 the Sa.xon King of Wesse.x 
captured the town, and in 836 the Danes possessed the place, they in their turn 
being badly beaten in 918. In 1051, Edward the Confessor took up his residence 
there and some years later William the Conqueror held Court at Gloucester, where 
he usually spent his Christmas. In 1264, the King lost possession of the castle by 



GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



143 







Piwtograph by F. Frith &• Co., Ensland 



Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 



THE DOCKS OF GLOUCESTER, ENGLAND 



fraud, some knights dressed as " woolmongers " being let in through the gates by 
treachery. The town also figured in the wars of 1642 and 1643. 

In 1734, there was only one stage coach between Gloucester and London, which 
left on Monday morning and arrived in the latter city on Wednesday evening, 
and in these early days this was considered such an achievement that the words 
"Gloucester Flying Machine" were painted on the coach doors in large letters. 
It may be interesting to mention that several wills in the Registry begin, "Whereas 
I am about to take a journey to London, and whereas it is uncertain whether or 
not I may live to return, I do therefore think it necessary to make my last will and 
testament." 

The Gloucester Cathedral, which is one of the finest in England, was dedicated 
by the Bishops of Worcester, Rochester and Bangor. Gloucester also has an old 
castle which dates back to the early days when such a fortress was necessary there 
on account of the town being the key to South Wales. The city is situated on the 
river Severn which is well described by these words : — 

"Queen of the Western Rivers, Severn, hail! 
The boast of Gloucester, glory of her vale, 
Long may thy broad expanse of waters sweep 
In rolling volumes to the kindred deep!" 



144 



GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

GROTON, County Suffolk, England, is the ancestral home of our first 
- Governor, John Winthrop, and on the south side of the church in the old 
town is a stone tomb placed there as a memorial to Adam Winthrop, the 
first of the name, who was Lord of the Manor of Groton. Here are buried Gover- 
nor Winthrop's father, grandfather and possibly great-grandfather. The Winthrop 
coat of arms is on one end of the tomb and the Latin inscription on the side now 
partially obliterated translated into English reads as follows: — 

Heaven the country Christ the way. Here lies the body of Adam 
Winthrop, Esq., son of Adam Winthrop, Esq., who were Patrons of 
this Church and Lords of the Manor of Groton. The above named 
Adam, the son, married Anna the daughter of Henry Browne of Edwards- 
ton by whom he had one son and four daughters. He departed this 
life in the year of our Lord 1623, and of his own age 75. But Anna 
his wife, died 1628. She also is buried here with him. 

Blessed are the peacemakers; for they shall be called the sons of God. 

Inside the church stands the old baptismal font and at the back of the church 
are two tablets, one that was taken from the old tomb outside, probably to make 
place for the long inscription quoted above. The inscription below came into the 
possession of Hon. Robert C. Winthrop of Boston, Massachusetts, who returned 
it to the English church. It is worded as follows: — 

Here Lyeth Mr. Adam Wynthrop Lorde and Patron of Groton, 
whiche departed owt of this worlde the IXth day of No- 
vember, in the yere of oure Lorde God MCCCCCLXII. 

The other tablet explains itself : — 

The above plate removed at some remote 
period from the grave in this chancel of Adam 
Winthrop, Esq., First Lord of this Manor and Patron of 
this church after the Reformation, and long in the 
possession of his famil>' in America, was restored in 1878 by 
the Hon. Robert C. Winthrop of Boston in New England, 
his descendant in the eighth generation. 

On the east end of the church is a large colored glass window placed there in 
memory of Governor John Winthrop and presented to the church by some of the 
Winthrop family in America, chiefly through the instrumentaUty of Hon. Robert 
C. Winthrop. There is a double window on the south side of the church just 
above the tomb which was placed there as a memorial to John Winthrop's first 
and second wives, Mary Forth and Thomasine Clopton. 

The house in which the Governor of Massachusetts and his son, the Governor 
of Connecticut, lived is not standing today but its situation is well known. The 



GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS 145 

place was sold soon after John Winthrop left there to lead the great Puritan emi- 
gration in 1630 to New England. 

The town of Groton, Massachusetts, is directly indebted for its name to Deane 
Winthrop, a son of Governor Winthrop, who was born in the parish of Groton, 
County Suffolk, England, in 1622. Our plantation of Groton, therefore, was closely 
associated with the old home of Governor Winthrop and the birthplace of his son, 
Deane, who was one of the original petitioners for the incorporation of our town. 
Deane Winthrop lived in Groton, Massachusetts, for a number of years, dying at 
Pullen's Point, now part of Winthrop. He was a brother of the first Governor 
of Connecticut. Several of the Winthrop family living in Massachusetts today 
have called their residences after the old town in England. 

Our Groton is closely associated with the stage coach days and once contained 
a number of typical New England taverns. Two of the best known stage coach 
drivers, whose names have come down to us, are Aaron Corey and Horace George, 
the latter being so obliging that he delivered messages, newspapers and packages 
along the road ; he was particularly popular with the boys of the town because he 
would slow down in sleighing time to allow them to grab the straps on the back of 
the coach and so enable them to "ketch on behind," as it was then called. "Phin" 
Harrington was also another well-known driver and he was particularly noted for 
his great speed; he was very small and the story is told of him that on cold nights 
he was able to crawl into one of the large lamps on the side of the coach and warm 
his feet. He held the reins of the Groton stages for forty years. In 1800, or there- 
abouts, a stage left Boston every Wednesday, arriving in Groton in the afternoon, 
and it was advertised to leave Groton each Monday morning, which gives some 
idea of the lack of regular transportation in these early days. The charge for a 
single trip was two dollars. 

The Massachusetts town has not placed any memorials, as far as we can learn, 
to any of the Winthrop family, but in 1879 the town erected a monument to com- 
memorate the site of the first meeting house which was burned by the Indians, 
from whom the town suffered much. Another memorial was also set up in the town 
to the memory of the Longley family, ten of whom were either killed or taken into 
captivity by the redskins. The earliest minister of this first parish was Rev. John 
Miller of Cambridge College, England, who first served as assistant to Rev. Ezekiel 
Rogers of Rowley, and who later was one of the first ministers at Yarmouth. The 
original grant of the Massachusetts township was made in 1655 and this is the date 
of the incorporation of the town. Groton Academy, now called Lawrence Academy 
of Groton, was founded in 1792 and has been helped many times by Amos Lawrence 
and William Lawrence, this family being one of the most important in the history 
of the town. Other well-known names connected with Groton are Morse, Blais- 
dell, Blood, Ware, Woolson, Gove, Prescott, Bancroft, Waters, Mansfield, Green, 
Eldredge. Williams, Nelson, Steams, Farnsworth, BuUard and Hall. Colonel 



146 



GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



iS^-^f 



William Prescott of Bunker Hill 
fame was born and lived in 
the town. Groton School, also 
in this town, is one of the best 
known boarding schools in this 
country. 

There have been a few ex- 
changes of presents between 
the English town and its Ameri- 
can namesake, the chief remem- 
brance from the old town in 
England being a photograph of 
the church in old Groton, which 
is framed together with small 
pieces of stained glass from one 
of the old windows in the 
church, which was brought 
over by the late Dr. Samuel 
A. Green, a well-known resi- 
dent of Groton and historian 
of the town; it now hangs in 
the Groton Public Library. 

Groton, England, is also in- 
directly responsible for the 
naming of Groton, Connecti- 
cut, in the year 1705, during 
the Governorship of Fitz-John 
Winthrop, out of respect for 
the Suffolk home of his family. 
There was also at one time a 
Groton, New Hampshire, and 
there is still in existence a Groton, Vermont, both of which were named by some 
of the early settlers who came from our Groton; New York also claims a Groton, 
which was likewise named after Groton, Massachusetts, and Groton, Connecticut, 
there being also a Groton, Ohio, named for the Connecticut town, and one, too, in 
South Dakota. 

We quote a few lines of verse written by Mrs. James Gordon Carter of Groton, 
although they give a rather e.xaggerated idea of the excitement at Groton Junction 
station (now called Ayer). These verses would be better suited to this place at 
the time of Camp Devens, the large New England training camp for troops during 
the Great War: — 




I-'i<'„i 'i ;vy.,..,i.,x..jv,j Kitulncss I'rcdcrU Winthrop, Esq. 

WINTHROP FAMILY TOMB, GROTON CHURCH, 

GROTON, ENGL.\ND, SHOWING THE WINTHROP 

CO.\T OF ARMS ON THE FRONT END 

Here are buried the father, grandfather and possibly the great- 
grandfather of Governor Winthrop, the first Governor of 
Massachusetts. The inscription on the side of the tomb is 
given in the text. 



GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



147 




From a photograph now in the Groton Public Library, Groton, Massachusetts Kindness Miss Georgianna A . Bout-ivdl 

and Rev. Sherrard Billings 

GROTON CHURCH, GROTON, ENGLAND, 

showing the Winthrop family tomb in the outside comer of the church. Above this tomb is the double 
window placed there as a memorial to Governor John Winthrop's first and second wives. The large 
window on the right end of the church is the memorial window to John Winthrop, Governor of Massa- 
chusetts, given by members of the Winthrop family in America, at the suggestion of Hon. Robert C. 
Winthrop of Boston, Massachusetts. In the same frame with this picture are pieces of stained glass 
from Groton Church, England, shown in the cut below. 





PIECES OF STAINED GLASS FROM GROTON CHURCH, GROTON, ENGLAND, 

brought to Groton, Massachusetts, by the late Samuel A. Green, and presented by R. F. Swan, Esq., 

Postmaster of Boxford, England. 



' ' Who, pray, in any age or nation 
E'er saw a place like Groton Station? 



The bell is ringing, steam is hissing! 
Bipeds pour out — your trunk is missing! 
'What train is this? tell me, pray!' 
'Why, Ma'am, these go to Nashua.' 



148 GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

Squeezed as in nightmare or a witch hug, 
In comes the upper train from Fitchburg! 



All while this host of ills youVe summing, 
'Look out! the Boston train is coming!' 
And now, alas! the plot so thickens, 
The heart of the lone maiden sickens. 



'This way. Miss,' some one cried, — 'don't hurry; 
No use in making such a flurry!' 



'Take care, there!' 'Here, that's my trunk, porter!' 
'Look out! I'll make you one head shorter!' 
'Where do you go, — to Fitchburg? Worcester?' 
'What's in this basket, John?' 'A rooster!' 
'Here, take this box!' The cars are starting. 
And through the air John's legs are darting. 
A woman calls, 'Hannah, where's Peter?' 
'Alunching an apple.' 'What an eater!' 
'There, now, the baby's set to crying; 
For mercy's sake! what's father buying?' 
'That's the wrong car, — get out, Susanna!' 
'Don't cry — where did you hurt you, Hannah?' 
'Where's Mr. Stiles? such work, I never! 
I wish he'd come, he looks so clever. 
Children, get in! the bell is ringing! 
Why, do hear Mr. Fairbanks singing!' 
My Muse, alas! see her wings flutter; 
Panting, one warning word she'll utter: 
'Beware,' she says without compunction, 
'Beware, at night, of Groton Junction!'" 

There was an odd character in Groton who had lost her husband whereupon a 
number of changes had to be made around the place, including the removal of the 
pigsty; the old lady was particularly downcast when this was demolished as she 
declared it was the only memorial of her husband she had left. 

Groton, England, is an ancient town and owing to its geographical position 
played an important part in early English history. In the days of Norman rule 
this part of the country was studded with castles and fortresses, the greater part 
of which were in the vicinity of Groton, which in Domesday Book is called Grotena. 

Samuel A. Green, Esq., in an address dehvered at Groton, Massachusetts, in 
1905, on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the American town, speaks 
thus of Groton, England: — 

"During my boyhood I always had a strong desire to visit Groton in England, 
-which gave its name to this town and indirectly to si.\ other towns in the United 
States. Strictly speaking, it is not a town but a parish; and there are technical 
distinctions between the two. . . . All my previous knowledge in regard to the 



GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



149 




From prints in the collection of Mrs. R. C. Winthrop 

EAST WINDOW, GROTON CHURCH, GROTON, 
ENGLAND, 1875, 

placed there in memory of John Winthrop, leader of 
the great Puritan emigration to New England in 1630, 
first Governor of Massachusetts, and founder of Boston, 
Massachusetts, by his descendants in America, at the 
suggestion of Hon. R. C. Winthrop of Boston, Massa- 
chusetts. 



Kindness Mrs. R. C. Witilhrop 

SOUTH WINDOW IN GROTON CHURCH, 
GROTON, ENGLAND, 1880, 

placed over the Winthrop tomb, to the memory 
of the two wives of Governor John Winthrop, 
both of whom are buried in the chancel of the 
church. This window is the gift of Hon. R. C. 
Winthrop. 



place was limited to the fact that it lay in the county of Suffolk, near its southern 
border. After a somewhat close study of the Railway Guide, I left London in the 
month of October, 1854, for Sudbury, which is the only town of considerable size 
in the immediate neighborhood of Groton. . . . From Sudbury I drove in a dog- 
cart to Boxford, where I tarried over night at White Horse Iim, and in the morning 
walked over to Groton, less than a mile distant. This place, the object of my 
pilgrimage, I found to be a typical English village of the olden time, very small 
both in territory and population, and utterly uidike any of its American namesakes. 
... On reaching the end of my trip I called at once on the Rector, who received 
me very kindly and offered to go with me to the church, which invitation I readily 
accepted. He expressed much interest in the New England towns bearing the name 



I50 GROTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

of Groton, and spoke of a visit made to the linglish town a few years previously, 
by the Honorable Robert C. Winthrop, of Boston, which gave him much pleasure. 
We walked over the grounds of the old manor, once belonging to John Winthrop, 
first Governor of Massachusetts; and Groton Place, the residence of the lord of the 
manor at that time, was pointed out, as well as a solitary mulberry tree, which 
stood in Winthrop's garden, and is now the last vestige of the spot. ... I re- 
member with special pleasure the attentions of Mr. R. F. Swan, post-master of 
Boxford, who took me to a small school of little children in that parish, where the 
teacher told the scholars that I had come from another Groton across the broad 
ocean. He also kindly made for me a rough tracing of the part of the parish in 
which I was particularly interested; and as I had left the inn at Bo.xford when he 
called he sent it by private hands to me at the Sudbury railway station. All these 
little courtesies and many more I recollect with great distinctness, and they add 
much to the pleasant memories of my visit to the ancestral town, which has such 
a numerous progeny of municipal descendants in the United States." 

The English home of the Winthrop family Ues midway between Hadleigh and 
Sudbury in the County of Suffolk. It was formerly the lordship of the Abbot of 
Bury and was granted in 1544, soon after the dissolution of the Monasteries, to 
Adam Winthrop, Esq., and this grant may be seen in the Patent Rolls of the Public 
Record office in London. 



HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT 

MAYOR and Mrs. Louis R. Cheney of Hartford, Coimecticut, and several 
friends accepted the invitation of Hertford, England, to attend the one 
thousandth aimiversary of the rebuilding of the old Borough, and we 
believe that his own words best describe his visit, the celebration, and the won- 
derful reception given to him and the other Hartfordites who accompanied him: — 

"When I went to England in 1914, to attend the Hertford Millenary Celebration, I 
little imagined what was before us. It was during my term as Mayor, in response to several 
most urgent invitations, that I accepted, and our party sailed for Southampton about the 
20th of June. 

We were met at the Waterloo Station, in London, by the Mayor, Town Clerk, and a 
councillor of Hertford, who escorted us to our hotel and told us of the honors in store for 
us. The first one was that we were to be invited to dine and sleep at the Marquess of 
Salisbury's as he was their Lord High Steward. The invitation duly arrived from Lady 
Salisbury, and we accepted without any unnecessary delay. 

We arrived at Hatfield House, a party of si.\, in time for tea and were most cordially 
greeted by Lady Salisbury, who had visiting her. Miss Balfour (sister of the Hon. Arthur 
James Balfour), Lord and Lady Eustace Cecil (brother of the late Marquess, the great 
statesman and diplomat and father of the present Lord Salisbury), Lady Mary Cecil and 
Lady Arran. 



HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT 151 

The exercises, on the following day, were conducted on the Castle Grounds, before 
an audience of about three thousand people. After the presentation ceremonies, I was 
given the freedom of the platform (unexpectedly to me at that time) and presented the 
congratulations and best wishes of our Hartford to the Mother City. The credit of naming 
our Hartford after their Hertford was attributed to John Haynes, the first elected 
Gov. of Connecticut. I was very proud to claim him as an ancestor on that occasion. 
He came from Essex, near Hertfordshire, with Rev. John Hooker, and Samuel Stone, 
and was very prominent, owning quite an estate of his own over there. 

After the exercises in the open, we sat down to a bountiful luncheon (about one hun- 
dred of us) at which the nobility was largely represented. We drank to the king's health 
standing, and when Lord Salisbury toasted Mr. Balfour, the latter broke down, and it 
was very touching to see a great statesman so moved. I was then toasted and got out of 
the dilemma as best I could. We next went to the castle grounds to see a wonderful 
pageant, setting forth the history of Hertford, up to Queen Elizabeth's time. As a 
delicate attention to our party they sang the words of 'America' to the tune of 'God Save 
the King' — a custom of our own. 

The pageant was given every day for a week. I was greatly honored by being made 
President of the Pageant on one of the following days. On this occasion the deputy 
mayoress was presented with a bouquet of flowers by the school children. All of the 
townspeople were most cordial and showed their appreciation of our coming so far to 
participate in their celebration by seeing that many doors were opened to us, which are 
generally closed to the usual visitor." 

It is particularly interesting to note that Mr. Cheney was descended from John 
Haynes who had come from Essex, near Hertfordshire, and who named the Con- 
necticut town "Hartford " in honour of his friend Samuel Stone of Hertford, England, 
who accompanied Hooker on the pilgrimage from Massachusetts, as shown in the 
cut on page 152. These three men organized the First Church of Hartford 
and founded the colony on the banks of the Connecticut River, first calling it 
"Newtowne" after the town they had left in Massachusetts (now called "Cam- 
bridge"). Haynes later became the first Governor of this little Connecticut 
colony. 

Among the interesting things brought back from England by Mayor Cheney 
was the photograph of the baptismal record on parchment in All Saints Church, 
which gives an account of the baptism of Samuel Stone in these words: — 
"July 1602. Samuell, soone of Jhon Stones was baptyzed 30th." 

In parentheses under the photograph appears this note : — 

"One of the founders of Hartford, Conn. U.S.A. 1636." 

Another interesting relic in the old church is the baptismal font which was used to 
baptize Stone. 

The Mayor of the Connecticut town made several speeches, which he has been 
too modest to give us but we feel sure that he did justice to the occasion. His 
visit was of particular interest both to England and America for the reason that 
within the last nine years, our Hartford has had a Mayor who was a lineal descend- 
ant of one of the principal personages connected with the founding of the town, and 



152 



HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT 




From "Jliilory of A nliquities of New Eni^linl, .\fic- York arvi S trj.' Jersey " 

REV. THOMAS HOOKER AND HIS CONGREGATION ON THEIR LONG JOURNEY FROM 
NEWTOWNE (NOW CAMBRIDGE) TO FOUND HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT 



another Mayor who could trace his ancestry back to Hooker. Americans will also 
be interested in the number of Hadhams in the vicinity of the borough of Hertford 
which reminds them of the variations of the same name in New England. 

Hartford, Connecticut, received the following message, sent over after Colonel 
Cheney's return home: — 

"Borough of Hertford 
in the 
County of Hertford 
England. 

At a Quarterly Meeting of the Council of 
the Borough of Hertford, duly convened and 
holden at the Town Hall, Hertford, on 
Wednesday, the 29th day of July, 1914, at 
6 o'clock in the evening, precisely, 
It was Unanimously Resolved: — 

That the Members of this Council have received with the utmost 
pleasure an Address from the Mayor, Aldermen and Councilmen of 
the City of Hartford, in the State of Connecticut and United 
States of America, on the occasion of the celebration of the 
Millenary of the rebuilding of this town by King Edward the 
Elder, and desire to return their sincere thanks for the kindly greetings 
and good wishes therein expressed. 

They most earnestly reciprocate the hope that the cordial and 
friendly relations that e.xist between this Borough and its Offspring 
beyond the seas may long continue. 

They further desire to express their intense gratification that the 
Deputy Mayor and Mayoress (Colonel and Mrs. Cheney) and a number 




Pholo^riiph hy A rthur V. Elsden Kindness Ian F^nhes-Rohertson. Esq. 

ALL SAINTS CHURCH, HERTFORD, ENGLAND 

In this church is the baptismal register of Samuel Stone, the founder of Hartford, Connecticut. He was 

baptized in 1602. 




From rj photo\^rapk Kindness Ron. Louis R. Cheney 

MAYOR, ALDERMEN AND COUNCttMEN OF HERTFORD, ENGLAND 

This picture, taken in front of Hertford Castle, is part of a collection of framed pictures of the English 

town in City Hall, Hartford, Connecticut. 



154 HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT 

of the Citizens of Hartford, Connecticut, were able to attend the 
Millenary Celebration, and sincerely trust that their guests will carry 
home with them the happiest recollections of their visit, and of the 
welcome they received. 

The CorpoRj\te Seal of the Mayor, 

Aldermen and Burgesses of the 

Borough of Hertford, England, was 

hereunto affixed by William Frampton W. F. ANDREWS 

Andrews, Mayor, in the presence Mayor 

of Alfred Baker, 

Tou'ii Clerk." 

In the ofSces of the Town Clerk in Hertford Castle hang the photographs of 
the Common Council of our Connecticut city, which were presented about 1904 
by Mayor William F. Henney. We also understand that in 1891 Americans sub- 
scribed a considerable sum of money to build St. Nicholas Hall in the Parish of St. 
Andrew's which adjoins All Saints Church, the church of Samuel Stone. At this 
time a fete was held in Hertford, wliich was attended by the American Ambassador, 
who referred to the fact that when his native city, Chicago, was destroyed by fire 
it was from England that the first help came. Some of the prominent manufact- 
urers of the Connecticut city sent over articles to help make the occasion a success. 
Many views of Hartford were presented to the Marchioness of Salisbury, when 
she opened the fete. 

There has been much speculation and curiosity as to why the English town is 
spelled with an "e" and the Connecticut town with an "a." Colonel Cheney 
tells us that our town was not misspelled, and claims that it is the English town 
that really has made the error. In proof of this assertion he explains that the seal 
of the English town, upon which appears the figure of a hart, or deer, has on the 
margin the word "HArtforde," the additional "e" being the old English form of 
spelling. Another proof perhaps is the fact that the EngHsh town is always pro- 
nounced as if it were spelled "Harford." It is also interesting to note that in an 
account of Hertford Castle published in 1589, the name is spelled with an "a" in- 
stead of an "e," which should prove to us pretty conclusively that it is the mother 
town that has strayed from the correct method of spelling, while her child, our 
town, adhered to the original and proper spelling. 

Hertford was four hundred years older than the thousand years for which this 
celebration was held, being inhabited by a sturdy race of Britons before the Saxons 
conquered the country. It was a flourishing town when the great Saxon king, 
Alfred, allowed the cakes of the peasant's wife to burn, thereby enduring a scolding 
by the angry woman, who, of course, did not know she was tongue-lashing her 
sovereign. 

Hertford is situated at the meeting point of three rivers, the Maran, the 
Beane. and the Lea, and as far back as the time of the Caesars there was a British 




From " Picturesque Bert/ord " 



Rose b" Sons 



PORT HILL, HERTFORD, ENGLAND 




..; ■■Ilislory of the l-irsl Church in II ir!',>rj I<, / (,- ■> ,. Livii U.ilkcr. l> P. 

MONUMENTS IX THE CENTER CHURCH BURYING GROUND IN HARTFORD, 

CONNECTICUT, TO THE MEMORY OF ITS EARLY SETTLERS 

The Haynes, Hooker and Stone memorials are on the right. 



iS6 



HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT 



settlement on this site, which was at that time called "Durocobriva," meaning 
"conflux of waters." The situation was one to attract the East Saxons, who 
renamed the town "Hertsforda," and it became the residence of the Saxon kings. 
Others claim that Hertford, which gives its name to the county as well as to the 
borough and market town, is named for "Ford of the Harts," while other historians 
assert that its name is derived from the Sa.xon word "Herudford," meaning "Red 
Ford." The river Lea connected Hertford with London before the days of the rail- 
road, and this may be the reason that the National Synod was held there in 673 
bv King Ecfried, sometimes spelled Egfrid, which is claimed to have been the 
precursor of the English Parliament. The Sa.xons in their turn were subjected to 
the attacks of the Danes and in the reign of Alfred the town was raided and burned 
to the ground; but the great Saxon king built a dyke to keep out the tides, 
thereby preventing the Danes from using the Lea, as they previously had done, and 
by this act he saved the town. 

Edward the Elder built Hertford Castle in the year 906, and after the conquest 
the Normans rebuilt it, surrounding it with a moat and walls of steel and flint, 
some of which remain to this day. It is especially interesting to find that the first 
Governor of the Castle appointed by William the Conqueror was an ancestor of 
Governor Haynes and Mayor Cheney of our Hartford. This post was afterwards 




Photographed hy A rthur V . Etsdfn 



Kindnfss /.i« Forhe^-Robertson, Esq. 



HERTFORD CASTLE, HERTFORD, ENGL.\ND 

On these grounds the Hertford Millenary celebration took place in 1914, at which Mayor Louis R. Cheney 
of Hartford was present as the official representative of the Connecticut city. 



HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT 



157 



given to one of the Norman barons who had distinguished himself against the 
English, and as a reward the castle was bestowed upon him, remaining the property 
of his family for years. It may also be of interest to mention that in this old castle 
were married Isabel of Castile and Prince Edward Plantagenet, the fourth surviving 
son of King Edward III. When Henry VIII ascended the throne the castle was 
in a dilapidated condition, but as he desired it for a future residence, he gave orders 
to have it restored. Both Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth spent much of their 
girlhood there, their presence being still recalled by a path called the "Queen's 
Bench Walk." Another fact of historical interest is that during the plague in 
London both in 1563 and 1589 Parliament sat in Hertford Castle. In 1628 it was 
granted by King Charles to William Cecil, the second Earl of Salisbury, and has been 
in the family ever since. Charles Lamb has been closely associated with Hertford- 
shire, and sometimes we hear it mentioned as "Lamb's County." An old proverb 
asserts that 

"He who buys a house in Hertfordshire, 
Pays three-quarters for the air." 



The name of Morgan seems to have been distinguished in Hertford, as well as 
in Hartford, for we read that there was a Robert Morgan in the English city who 
was granted by the King special permission "that henceforth during his life 
in the presence of us, or our heirs, or in the 
presence of any other, or others, whomso- 
ever, at any times hereafter be covered with 
his hat on his head, and not take off or lay 
aside his hat from his head, for any reason 
or cause, against his will or pleasure." He 
undoubtedly bestowed great favors upon the 
town, as his namesake, J. P. Morgan, has 
bestowed upon our city. 

If we turn again to the American city we 
find that Hooker, with Stone (who it will be 
remembered was born in Hertford), first came 
to Newtowne from England on the invitation 
of certain Newtowne settlers who had in 
England attended worship with the Rev. Mr. 
Hooker. They sailed for this country in 
1633 and when they arrived their friends 
said that their " three great necessities were 
now supplied, for they had Cotton for their 
clothing, Hooker for their fishing, and Stone 
for their building." Monuments have been 




Photographed for the State Street Trust Company bv A rthur 

V. Ehden 

Kittdruss Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

THIS TABLET IS PLACED IN ST. NICH- 
OLAS HALL IN HERTFORD, ENGLAND, 



to record the assistance of citizens of Hartford, 
Connecticut, who subscribed funds to help re- 
build this hall, which is in the Parish of St. 
Andrew, adjoining that of All Saints, in the 
church of which parish can still be seen the 
baptismal register of Samuel Stone, who was 
one of the founders of Hartford, Connecticut. 



158 HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT 

placed in Hartford over the graves of Hooker, Stone and Haynes and we give a 
picture of them on page 155. 

It may be interesting to Harvard men to record that as early as 1644 a small 
colony in Connecticut "took measures consemeing the mayntenaunce of scoUers 
of Cambridge." 



HARWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 

A PICTURESQUE Cape Cod village, with here and there a velvety, green 
lawn bordered with whitewashed stones; trim gravel paths leading up to 
scrupulously neat white cottages, where a few gray-haired sea captains 
still pace up and down the porches, as they once trod the decks of the old ships 
in the days that are past. — such is the little town of Harwich, Massachusetts. Far 
across the ocean where the rivers Stour and Orwell meet in old England is the 
ancient borough of Harwich, called in olden times Har-wic, from which the New 
England town receives its name. By whom or under what circumstances the 
name was given will always be a matter of conjecture, but it was probably sug- 
gested by Patrick Butler, one of the residents of the Massachusetts village, who is 
said to have walked all the way to Boston to obtain the act of incorporation, which 
was granted on September 14, 1694. Certain it is that there must have been some 
of those early settlers for whom the old maritime town in Essex County, England, 
held tender memories, and this link which bound the old England town to the 

one in New England was strong 

and continued so through all 

1 J these many years. 

,THISFLAGST0NE.PERSONALLY \ In 1907, Charles M. Rob- 

OBTAINEDFROM A STREETINTHE j ^Jins, Esq.. a native of our 

OLD EOfiO'UGH OF HARWICH. ] Ha™-ich. made a trip to Eu- 

t.,£MGLAND. WAS PRESENTED AS A j '?'[Y^:^^^^'^^'^!^!^ 
. NAMESAKE SOUVENIR TO THE ♦■ 
TOWN OF HARWICH. MASS.. IN 1907, 



A 



visited the ancient borough for 
which his native town was 
named, and purchased numer- 
BY CHARLES M.ROBBINS.OF rj „^, p^nts and pictures of old 
TTLEBORO. MASS.. A N.!\TI VE SON .4 Harwich, which he presented. 
OF THIS TOWN. ]i on his return, to the Massa- 

'^ .^— *■ chusetts town; some of these 

/•rom II photograph Kindness John U. Point, Esq. , in 

are now hanging on the walls 

FL.1GSTONI. FROM A STREET IN H.ARWICH, ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^j^^j^,^ ^^^^^ ^j^j,^ 

ENGLAND, . , ^„ t -i 

others are in the L hase Library 

now placed in the pavement at the entrance to the Exchange iir ti • u 

Building, Harwich, Massachusetts. at West Harwich. 



i6o HARWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 

Mr. Robbins also visited the borough officials of Harwich, England, including the 
Mayor, the Clerk, and the Superintendent of Public Works, and intimated to them 
that he would appreciate some suitable souvenir which he might present to Harwich, 
Massachusetts, in memory of its worthy namesake across the sea. He persuaded the 
Superintendent of Public Works to ship to Harwich, Massachusetts, a flagstone that 
had been in the sidewalk in front of the City Hall for over two hundred years, but 
which, owing to its position in a jog, or corner, was only slightly worn. Upon its 
arrival at the Cape Cod town, this stone was properly inscribed by Mr. Henry T. 
Crosby, the marble worker of Harwich, and was placed in the sidewalk in front of the 
Exchange Building, owned by the town, which prominent position it now occupies. 

Like the English Harwich, the Cape Cod town is a popular seaside resort; and 
for those who appreciate history as well as fresh air, there are also to be found in each 
town numerous historical associations. Off the coast of Harwich, England, Alfred's 
fleet encountered the Danes in the year 885, and many years afterwards, in 1666, 
there, too, occurred a memorable engagement between the Dutch and the English. 

Less stirring, but no less interesting to lovers of history, are the associations 
which cluster about the Bay State town. The territory comprised in the town- 
ship, with the exception of a large tract on the southwest, is a part of the original 
section selected by the "Purchasers or Old Comers" of the Plymouth colony, and 
granted to them upon the surrender of the patent in 1640. Across the mouth of 
the inlet of Muddy Cove, or Long Cove, as it is sometimes called, where the Wading 
Place bridge connects the towns of Harwich and Chatham, the Indians used to 
ford the river on their way from one town to the other, and near the boundary 
stone where the tide gate has been built stood their weir. A short distance north- 
west of the mouth of the cove is the site of the farm where lived Micah Ralph, 
the last full-blooded Indian in Harwich. The first settler in the town of Harwich, 
as far as is known, was Gershom Hall, who was born in our Barnstable in 1648 
and who came from the territory now called North Dennis; as a farmer, millwright 
and lay preacher he was a prominent person in the colony. 

The Massachusetts town was not destined to compete as an industrial center 
with her English prototype, where shipbuilding and fishing are carried on quite 
extensively and where large cement works are also located. During the early 
part of the nineteenth century the manufacture of marine salt was an important 
industry at Harwich, Massachusetts, but in time the decline in the price of salt 
and the increase in the cost of the works unfortunately led to the abandonment 
of the business. At one period, however, in her history, the Cape Cod town had 
quite a reputation as a fishing center, and her sturdy sons became expert in the 
use of the harpoon on their whaling expeditions. At first a large number of whales 
were to be found in the vicinity of the Cape, and small boats were employed in 
the pursuit of them, but later, as they withdrew to more peaceful feeding grounds, 
the whalemen went after them in sloops, and finally schooners were used. Cod and 



HARWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 



i6i 




From an old print 



Kindness Perry Walton, Esq. 



HARWICH, ENGLAND 



mackerel fishing each enjoyed a period of prosperity, but now they, too, have declined. 
The cultivation of cranberries is now the principal industry of the town. The god- 
dess of industry has tarried at this picturesque town, and passed on, leaving to 
Harwich only the memory of those glorious days when her ships sailed the 
many seas. 

The harbour of Harwich, Essex, England, is large enough to hold a hundred 
ships of war, and is almost the only feature of this town. It is now the perma- 
nent headquarters of the Admiral of Patrols and of the Torpedo Destroyer Flotillas 
operating in the North Sea, with a range of action extending from Dover to the 
Firth of Forth. The town itself is of little interest, though to the stranger some 
of its narrow streets and wooden houses would appeal strongly. The Old Cups 
Hotel is interesting, its oak-panelled rooms reminding one of its age. There is 
still shown the room in which the great Lord Nelson slept during his visits there, 
but it is, alas ! fast passing into decay. 

Just south of the town is Beacon Hill, upon which is situated one of the most 
powerful forts along the coast, but so artfully concealed that the visitor might 
easily pass by without knowing it. Strangely enough, there is a Bunker's Hill 



i62 HARWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 

a mile out from the town, but it is only a nickname taken from the name of a 
man who kept a public house at its foot. 

The Saxon Chronicles mention a battle fought near Harwich in 885 between 
King Alfred the Great's fleet and sixteen Danish ships. Orwell was the name of 
the town in bygone times, but the sea washed it entirely away, and upon its ruins 
Harwich rose. Being the only harbour of refuge between the Thames and the 
Humber, it naturally became an important place for shipping. Edward II gave 
the first charter to Harwich in 1318. It was his successor, Edward III, who sailed 
from this port in 1340 with a fleet of 260 sail to attack the French fleet at Sluys 
near Flanders, where he gained the great victory. 

The most notable event, however, in the history of the town was the German 
capitulation which began on November 20, 1918, with the surrender to Admiral 
Tyrwhitt of over two hundred German U-boats. These vessels that were to 
cause the destruction of England, found a safe anchorage in Harwich Harbour. 

Queen Elizabeth immortalized the name of Harwich by calling it "Happy-go- 
lucky Harwich," lucky indeed, for although the Germans made many raids upon the 
town, only twice did a bomb fall there, and fortunately neither of them exploded. 

Dovercourt, the "West End" of the Borough of Harwich, is fast becoming a 
summer resort. The famous diarist Pepys once represented Harwich in Parliament. 



HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 

BETWEEN the years 1633 and 1639 a good many persons migrated to 
Hingham, which was then called Bare Cove. A few families came over here 
in 1633 and took up land on Planter's Hill, now part of the Brewer estate 
and known as "World's End Farm." This strip of land is situated across the water 
in front of the late Hon. John D. Long's residence. Several followed in 1634, but 
the largest number came over in 1635, most of them from old Hingham, Norfolk, 
arriving in Charlestown, after an extended voyage; they then came down the har- 
bour in an open pinnace into the small stream which runs by the mill-dam and 
through the town, almost up to the present jail, and started their settlement 
near the foot of the present Ship Street. On this historic spot is a memorial 
which reads as follows : — 

In grateful memory of 

Reverend Peter Hobart and 

that company of English men and women 

who founded the town of 

Hingham 

landing near this spot in September 

163 s 

Erected by Old Colony Chapter 

Daughters of the American Revolution 

I 9 I 3 




From an old print In possession of the Slate Street Trust Company 

THE OLD MEETING HOUSE, OFTEN CALLED "THE OLD SHIP CHURCH," HINGHAM, 

MASSACHUSETTS. ERECTED 1681 
The Memorial Tower in honour of the early settlers stands on the right of the Old Meeting House. 




From a photograph 



Kindness Rev. Louis C. Cornish and Rev. Uoughlon Page 

HINGHAM, ENGLAND 



164 



HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 




Photographed /or the Slalt Street Trust Company Kinlness Rn Louis C- Cornish and Rev. Houghton Pise 

ROOM ON SECOND FLOOR OF THE HINGHAM MEMORIAL TOWER, 

placed there in memory of Rev. Peter Hobart, first minister of this settlement and a settler here in 1635. 
He was born in Hingham, England, in 1602. The inscription over the mantlepiece is given in the text. 
The desk and chair on the left were brought over from old Hingham by Rev. Louis C. Cornish and date 
from about 1650. The chair on the right was brought from old Flingham, probably in 1635, by a member 
of the Lincoln family, in which it continued in unbroken succession until recently presented to the Hingham 
Memorial. The Lincoln family of Hingham, Massachusetts, are descendants of the Lincolns of Hingham, 
England. Abraham Lincoln was of the Hingham family. 



Mr. Gushing, the third town clerk, gives a record "of such persons as came out 
of the town of Hingham, and the towns adjacent, in the coimty of Norfolk, in 
the kingdom of England, into New England, and settled in Hingham." He also 
stated that "The whole number who came out of Norfolk, chiefly from Hingham 
and its vicinity, from 1633 to 1639, and settled in Hingham, was two hundred and 
six." There is no question but that this town was named after the town of the 
same name in England where most of these early settlers had lived. Among the 
earUest to move to the new town were Peter Hobart, the first minister, and Robert 
Peck, who were the most prominent men of their time in the plantation; also among 
other early comers were the Lincolns, Herseys, Cushings, Jacobs, Wilders, Burrs, 
Thaxters, Spragues, Ghubbucks, Andrews, Bates, Stoddards, Stowells, Gardners, 



HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 



i6s 



Beals, Towers, Leavitts, Ripleys, Joys, Marshes, Lanes and Whitons. On a hill 
across the creek opposite this early settlement were established earthworks and a 
fort and the remains can be seen today in the center of the old cemetery. On top 
of this hill is the First Meeting House, whose congregation was gathered in 1635 
in an earlier meeting house, and later moved to the present building which was 
erected in 1681. This meeting house is the oldest place of pubHc worship now in 
use in the United States and is well worthy of a visit. On entering one notices 
particularly the bell rope which hangs down in the center of the church, just as 
it did in the early days of the plantation, one of its functions being to give warn- 
ing of any Indian attacks. In a corner 
of the church are stUl preserved the old 
pews, numbered 6, 37, 46, 47, and 51, 
which were occupied by the early 
church-goers, and many of the families 
of the original settlers still own pews in 
the church. There is a bronze tablet 
near the pulpit which gives the min- 
isters' names from the time of Rev. 
Peter Hobart in 1635 to the present, 
there having been only eleven preachers 
in all these many years. Nearby is a 
carving of St. Peter's keys on a block 
of wood taken from the church in 
Hingham, England, and sent to our 
Hingham; it dates back to the Refor- 
mation. The church also uses the bap- 
tismal bowl which, according to the 
best authorities, dates prior to the year 
1590, and which was brought over by 
the early comers. One should be sure 
to climb to the top of the church and see 
the curious curved rafters which sup- 
port the roof and which are shaped like 
the ribs of a ship; it is on account of 
these unusual old beams, that the meet- 
ing house has been called the Old Ship 
Church. This form of building was 
commonly known in England as a ship 
church and, from being one of many, 
it is now the only survivor of the type 
in this country. 




From a pkotogmph 



Kindness Rev. Louis C. Cornish, 

Rev. Hou%hton Page and 

Guslavus O. Flrnderson, Esq. 



RE.\R VIEW OF THE TOWER IN HINGHAM, 
MASS.\CHUSETTS, 

showing part of the ancient cemetery used by the 
early settlers. This tower was erected by the people 
of our Hingham and descendants of the settlers on 
the occasion of the two hundred and seventy-fifth 
anniversary of the founding of the town, and dedi- 
cated to the memory of the early settlers. Rev. 
Louis C. Cornish was chiefly responsible for the 
building of this campanile. The mounting-block, 
sent from Hingham, England, is on the ground floor. 
In the belfry are bells, copies of those in Hingham, 
England, and other nearby towns in Norfolk County. 
England. On the second story of the tower is the 
Hobart room shown in another cut. 



i66 HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 

The Massachusetts Hingham has had closer relations with its English mother 
than have most of the other American towns which have been named for English 
ones. On the two hundred and seventy-fifth aimiversary of the founding of the 
new Hingham, a memorial tower was erected in memory of the first settlers by 
public subscription and through the efforts of Rev. Louis C. Cornish. It is situated 
at the entrance of the old burying ground where many of the forefathers are buried 
and adjacent to the Old Ship Church. In the belfry of this tower are eleven 
bells made in London, which are copies of the bells in churches at Hingham, Nor- 
wich, and several other adjacent towns in the county of Norfolk, England. In the 
lower part of the tower is the following inscription : — 

This Memorial 
erected by public subscription on the 275th anniversary of the settlement 
commemorates the men and women 
, who for the sake ol liberty and at great sacrifice 

came out from Hingham, England, and towns adjacent 

between the years 1633 and 1638 

and on the edge of the wilderness 

established this free plantation of New Hingham 



1633 Ralph Smith, Nicholas Jacob, Thomas Lincoln, 

Edmund Hobart, Theophilus Gushing, Edmund Hobart, St., 

Joshua Hobart, Henry Gibbs 

etc., etc. 

Also in this tower is one of the most interesting relics in new Hingham, the 
Hingham Stone, which was sent by old Hingham to its namesake here as an anni- 
versary gift, and which is supposed to be the only stone that could be found in 
Hingham, England. The following inscription in the tower describes this stone: — 

The Hingham Stone 

long used as a mounting block 

is believed to have stood 

for centuries on the Village Green 

and to have been known 

to the Forefathers before the migration. 

It was given by Hingham, Norfolk 

to Hingham, Massachusetts 

for this Memorial 

and was presented to the Town 

on October 9, 191 1 by the 
Right Hon. James Bryce, D.C.L. 
-Embassador for Great Britain 
to the United States. 

On the second story of the tower is a room dedicated to the memory of Peter Hobart, 
and over the fireplace in the corner are inscribed on a pianel the following 
words: — 



HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 167 

To the Memory of the Revd. Peter Hobart, M.A. Born in Old 
Hingham 1602 Died in New Hingham 1678 Educated in Cambridge 
University, Lecturer and Preacher in EngUsh Parishes, he emigrated to 
America in 1635, and became one of the Founders, and the First Min- 
ister of this free Plantation. Leader in rehgious and civil affairs, cour- 
ageous champion of the rights of man, for forty three years Preacher of 
the Word of God on this far Edge of the Wilderness, he walked by faith, 
and left upon this community & upon New England the impress of his 
high ideal of reverent freedom, which endures & shall endure '' Here 
shall the hght of memory be kindled." 

This room is panelled with wide pine boards given by someone in Michigan 
who showed a particular interest in Hobart. The room contains a desk and 
chair which were brought to this country from old Hingham by Rev. Mr. Cor- 
nish, who in 1913 visited the EngUsh Hingham as one of a committee appointed 
by the town to present a substitute stone as a recognition of the action of the 
English town already described. Besides Mr. Cornish and his wife, this committee 
included Mr. and Mrs. Isaac Sprague and their son. This is the only official visit 
made from our Hingham, though many citizens of our town have visited the English 
town of the same name. The official presentation of this stone, which took place 
before the townspeople, is shown in the cut on page 170. Between the 
poles on each side were the words "Old — Hingham — New" and on the other side 
appeared "1637 — Welcome — 1913-" Upon the platform stood the block of granite 
which now has been placed on the edge of the village green, where it replaces the 
old mounting block which stood outside the blacksmith shop and which now is 
in this country. The inscription above the stone is given under the cut on page 168. 
After appropriate remarks a luncheon was served in the White Hart Inn, 
which was followed by a reception at the residence of Rev. Canon Upcher, the 
Rector of the Hingham Parish. Rev. Mr. Cornish in his pamphlet says: — 

"The gift also expressed a great hope. May not these stones exchanged between the 
Hinghams be stepping stones to closer friendship between Anglo-Saxon people? . . . 
When all the towns in both countries feel the same hearty good will no ill will can e.xist 
between the nations. . . . The two Hinghams, when all is said, are strands in the bonds 
of confidence that bind English speaking people together." 

The following day as the Committee left the village many of the inhabitants were 
in their doorways waving the visitors a farewell. Near the old English town are 
to be found Norwich, Yarmouth, Ipswich, Weston, Wrentham, Boxford, Stone- 
ham, Lynn, Sudbury, Attleboro, Cambridge and Boston, all of which names can 
be found in both countries. 

Just before America entered the Great War our Hingham took up a public 
subscription for the benefit of the war sufferers in English Hingham, and collected 
fifteen hundred dollars for this purpose. In return, a copy of the roll of honour 
of the EngUsh town during the war was sent over here and is now in the town 
building. 



1 68 



HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a photograph sent by Hinghatn, England, to Rev. Louis C. Cornish, formerly of Bingham, M assachusetti 

Kindness Rev. Louis C. Cornish 

MOUNTING BLOCK NEAR THE VILLAGE GREEN, HINGHAM, ENGLAND 

The inscription above the stone reads: "This stone was given in 1Q13 by the people of Hingham, Massa- 
chusetts, to replace the Ancient Mounting Block which stood upon this spot, presented to them in igi i by 
Hingham, Norfolk." (England) 



Very recently Mr. Cornish made another visit to old Hingham and made a 
speech on the village green listened to by a large number of the inhabitants of the 
old town. 

Rev. Ebenezer Gay, known as the father of American Unitarianism, seems to 
have been one of the wits of our Hingham in the early days. Once he was riding 
to Boston with a friend and as they were crossing Boston Neck he was asked 
jocosely by his companion, "Where would you be, my friend, if those gallows had 
their due?" "Riding alone to Boston" was the prompt reply. 

The second parish of Hingham was formed at Cohasset, where an interesting 
interchange of presents with the old Hingham took place only a few years ago. 
The Rector of St. Stephen's Church in Cohasset obtained from St. Andrew's Episco- 
pal Church in Hingham, England, part of the old baptismal font which now forms 
part of the font in the Cohasset church. This font dates from the fourteenth 
century and in it five generations of Lincolns in England were baptized. In 



HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 



169 



return a former Cohasset Rector, Rev. Milo H. Gates, D.D., obtained subscriptions 
from a number of persons in this country for a bust of Abraham Lincoln which 
was sent to the Church in old Hingham, the home of Lincoln's ancestors, and 
which was unveiled in 1919 by Hon. J. W. Davis, American Ambassador to the 
Court of St. James. Samuel Lincoln, a Norfolk weaver, was the first of the family 
to migrate to America and the name of Lincoln has ever since been closely 
identified with the old and new Hing- 
hams. The inscription on this tablet 
reads as follows : — 

In this Parish for many generations 

Lived the Lincolns, 

Ancestors of the American, 

ABRAHAM LINCOLN 

To him, greatest of that lineage, 

Many citizens of the United States 

Have erected this memorial. 

In the hope that for all ages, 

Between that land and 

This land and all lands. 

There shall be 
"Malice toward none, 
With charity for all." 

The American Ambassador said in the 
course of his speech : — 

"It was from this village that Lincoln's 
progenitors set out almost three hundred 
years ago to taste the great adventure of 
the new world, and to join with those bold 
and hardy pioneers who were carving a 
new home out of the Transatlantic wilder- 
ness. Samuel Lincoln, the Norfolk weaver, 
left Hingham, according to tradition, in 
the year 1637, Abraham Lincoln, his re- 
mote descendant, returns today in this 
memorial." 

There is also a Lincoln statue in Man- 
chester, England, and in Edinboro, 
Scotland. 




From the" Landmark." tite Magazine of thr / 



BUST OF ABRAHAM LINCOLN IN THE 
PARISH CHURCH OF HINGHAM, ENGLAND, 

presented by some of his descendants, and others 
living in America, through the instrumentality of 
Rev. Milo H. Gates, D.D., former rector of St. 
Stephen's Church, Cohasset. Cohasset was origi- 
nally a part of Hingham, Massachusetts. 



Mr. Cornish, at the request of the Trust Company, describes Hingham, 

England, in these words: — 

"Hingham, Norfolk, Ues sixteen miles distant from the city of Norwich, and about 
seven miles from the nearest railway station. A rich farming country naturally centers 
in this ancient village. A beautiful and large Gothic church with a lofty tower stands 
adjacent to the village square, which is surrounded by low brick houses. From this 
village between the years 1633 and 1638 about two hundred families removed for conscience 



170 



HINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 




From (I photograph 



Kindness Rev. Louis C. Cornish and Rev. Houghton Page 



SCENE ON THE VILLAGE COMMON OF HINGHAM, ENGLAND, 

at the time of the presentation, on August 11, igi3, of the stone sent by residents of Hingham, Massa- 
chusetts, to replace the mounting block now in the memorial tower in our Hingham. The committee from 
the Massachusetts town on this occasion was composed of Rev. Louis C. Cornish and Mrs. Cornish, Mr. 
and Mrs. Isaac Sprague and their son. 

sake and established the Free Plantation of New Hingham, now the town of Hingham, 
Massachusetts. An ancient record preserved in the Library of Cambridge University, 
England, begins with these words, 'The humble petition of the poor ruinated town of 
Hingham, Norfolk,' and tells of the empty houses and forlorn condition after half the 
people had come overseas. The e.xodus is still held in remembrance in Old Hingham." 



MELROSE, MASSACHUSETTS 

WE believe that there are a good many residents of our Melrose who do 
not realize that in Trinity Church is a carved stone taken from the 
ruins of Melrose Abbey, Scotland. It was brought to this country 
largely through the efforts of Mr. William L. Williams of our Melrose, and at the 
present time it is under the support of one of the trusses on the south side of the 
Church, the tablet nearby marking its history in these words: — 

The above carved stone once formed a part of the Abbey Church of St. 
Mary, Melrose, Scotland, built about a.d. 1400. It was obtained 



MELROSE, MASSACHUSETTS 

through the kind oflSces of Alexander T. Simson, Esq., Gildon Grove, 
Melrose, and the Rev. James C. Herdman, Melrose and presented to 
WiUiam L. Williams of this town, and by him to Trinity Parish, a.d. 
1886. 



171 



Except for occasional visits to the old town by citizens of our Melrose, we know of 
no other connecting links, excepting a stained glass window in the Melrose High- 
lands Club, the gift of Frank A. Messenger, Esq., which shows portions of the 
Abbey. The latest inhabitant of our Melrose to receive a present from the old 
cotintry was Lieut. Carl E. Shumway, who while in Boston, England, in 19 18, was 
presented by the Mayor with a stone from the old church there. 

Our Melrose was formerly called "Maiden North End" and "North Maiden" 
and still before that "Pond Feilde." Originally it belonged to Charlestown, which 
then included what is now Somerville, Maiden, Everett, Woburn, Melrose, Stone- 
ham, Cambridge, West Cambridge and Reading, and a large part of Medford. 
Many townships were la- 



ter formed from these ori- 
ginal lands, which reduced 
this territory to its present 
Umits. Melrose was set- 
tled in the early days, al- 
though the town was not 
incorporated until 1850. 
It is certain that it was 
called after its Scotch 
namesake, but there has 
seemed to be a contro- 
versy as to whether the 
name was given by Will- 
iam Bogle of Glasgow, 
Scotland, who moved to 
our Melrose, or by Rev. 
John McLeish, pastor of 
the Methodist Protestant 
Church at that time. 
It is apparent that there 
was a meeting at Mr. 
Bogle's house at which 
the question of the name 
was discussed, one of 
those present making the 
remark : — 



r 




Photo&riiph l.ikcn Jur l/w Mjlc Mrt-ft 1 rust L ompany hy Oeor^e H. Hraykm 

TRIXITV CHURCH, MELROSE, M.'\SS.\CHUSETTS 
In this church is a stone from Melrose Abbey, Scotland. 




i^'rom a pholot^ra 



MELROSE, SCOTLAND 
Market Square from East. 



Kiruiness Ian Forbes-Robertson. Esq. 




From o phnlosraph Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

CHANCEL AND EAST WINDOW, MELROSE ABBEY, SCOTLAND 



MELROSE, MASSACHUSETTS 



173 



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From a photograph Kindness Ian Forbes- Robertson, Esq. 

MELROSE ABBEY, FOUNDED BY DAVID I, KING OF SCOTLAND 
A stone from this Abbey was sent as a present to Trinity Church, Melrose, Massachusetts. 



"I know a beautiful little town in Scotland which resembles this section 
so much that I should like to have our new town named after it. It is 
Melrose." 

The prominent names connected with the present city have been Sprague, Green, 
Barrett, Lynde, Upham, Vinton, Howard and Guild. 

The name of the Scotch town, often spoken of as "Fair Melrose," is derived 
from the British "Moal Ross," meaning a projection of meadow. At one time it 
was also known by the name of "Malerose." Poets have sung of Melrose and its 
Abbey, and of the river Tweed, which runs by the town, and therefore, we wiO not 
attempt to write of the place, or the wonders of this Abbey, of which Chambers 
made the remark, "To say that it is beautiful is to say nothing." The Abbey was 
founded by David I, and was dedicated in 1146 to the Virgin Mary. David I en- 
trusted the Abbey to a body of Cistercian monks from Yorkshire. The abbots of 
Melrose were noted for their sanctity and knowledge. The Abbey was restored by 
Robert Bruce in 1326 and Sir Walter Raleigh also did much to preserve its ruins. 
The winding river, gardens and village, and hamlets nearby make the scenery 
most attractive. The town suffered much during the wars between England 
and Scotland. 







rhotognsph by Henry Cooptr ir Son Kin.lni- '■■ •■ . I 'i. 

THE ELEANOR CROSS, NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAND 

One of the three crosses that remain standinR today, out of a total of ten or twelve which King Edwarcj I 
erected for his beloved Queen, one on each of the successive spots where the body rested on its 
"funeral way" to Westminster Abbey, November, 1290. 



175 



NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

NORTHAMPTON is known to New Englanders and to many persons 
throughout the whole United States as being the home of Hon. Calvin 
Coolidge, the esteemed Governor of Massachusetts and Republican nom- 
inee for Vice President in 1920, whose name during the important election of 1919 
"for law and order" traveled across the seas to the mother town and other places 
in England and even in France. 

The English Northampton has always shown great interest in her daughter 
and at the time of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the Massachusetts 
town, held in 1904, Hon. Samuel S. Campion, Alderman of Northampton, England, 
happened to be visiting the St. Louis Exhibition and was invited to be present. 
He was able to accept and began the ceremony with an address to the children of 
the Sunday-schools, saying among other things: — 

"Boys and girls, — or shall I say brothers and sisters, — I am from Northampton, Eng- 
land, and am standing on the sacred soil of New England. I am sure that no person 
sang with more earnestness than I the hymn this morning, 

'O God, beneath Thy guiding hand 
Our exiled fathers crossed the sea.' 

Those brave old Puritans and PUgrims were your fathers and my fathers. I come from 
Northampton, England, to greet you, boys and girls, and you children of an older growth, 
on this auspicious anniversary, and it is with peculiar pleasure that I find myself address- 
ing a Sunday-school gathering in the City of Northampton, Mass. First, let me say 
how warmly I appreciate the kind words which the Governor has said in regard to my 
coming here. ... I come to bring the greetings of the Sunday-school children and workers 
of old Northampton to the Sunday-school children and workers of this old city in the 
new Continent. . . . And I know they feel the greatest interest in your Celebration, and 
wish you ail the greatest happiness and the highest success in your school work." 

After the address, the school-children voted to send a reply to the school-children 
of the old town. Mr. Campion in a later speech told the Northamptonites of the 
first Norman church and castle in his town, the history of which is connected with 
the life of that remarkable figure in history, Thomas a Becket, Archbishop of 
Canterbury. These buildings are still standing, as is also another monument known 
as Queen Eleanor's Cross. Mr. Campion continued his remarks by adding that 
the people of old Northampton in the seventeenth century "were men, men with 
strong convictions and imbendable backbone, and their womenfolk were of the 
same heroic mould as themselves. It was of such stuff that the early settlers 
were made, whom the old country sent over to form your settlements here— to 
create a new Northampton in Massachusetts." Later in the celebration, Mr. 
Campion told his hearers of the Norman Conquest, when William the Conqueror 



176 



NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS 




From large hanger printed in commemoration of Brilish-A merican Peace Centenary, Christmas Eve, A ,D. X814-1014 

THE ANCESTRAL HOME OF THE FAMILY OF GEORGE WASHINGTON, IN SULGRAVE, 

NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAND 



took possession of Northampton, and then handed the city over to his niece, Judith. 
He also mentioned Simon de St. Liz, the first Earl of Northampton, the brave 
crusader, who when he returned from battle erected as a memorial the church 
which is still standing, establishing also a monastery which he dedicated to St. 
Andrew. Mr. Campion also mentioned that in 1 546 the Mayor of old Northampton 
was named Lawrence Washington, a direct ancestor of George Washington, and 
that within six miles of the town, in Great Brington, the family remains lie buried. 
On the tomb is a coat of arms of the Washington family composed of the Stars 
and Bars, which according to tradition gave us our Stars and Stripes. He also 
mentioned the fact that the father and mother of Benjamin FrankUn came from 
the little village of Ecton, only five miles from Northampton; also that Henry 
Wadsworth Longfellow's ancestry on his mother's side claimed as their residence 
a village within ten miles of the town. After his address the English Alderman 
then read the following cablegram from the Mayor of his town : — 



NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



177 



'^^. 




Prom a photograph 



KitiJness VFuller K. Waikun. I'.sj 



NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAND 



"Convey to the Mayor, City Council and the inhabitants heartiest greetings from 
myself, the Council and Burgesses of Northampton, England, on the two hundred and 
fiftieth anniversary of settlement of our namesake American City. 

LEWIS, Mayor." 

It may be interesting to mention that an invitation to attend this two hundred 
and fiftieth anniversary was sent to his Honour the Mayor and City Council of 
Northampton, England, to which a very gracious reply was received reading as 
follows : — 



"To HIS Honour the Mayor, 

AND THE City Council of Northampton, U.S.A. 

Mr. Mayor and Gentlemen: — 

On behalf of myself and the Corporation of the ancient Borough of Northampton, 
England, I beg to acknowledge and to thank you for the invitation with which you have 
honoured us, and for the cordial feeling which prompted the invitation, to join with you 
in your celebration of the 250th anniversary of the settlement of your prosperous city. . . . 
Mr. Mayor and Gentlemen, I feel certain that the Council will appreciate highly your 
kindness and will join with me in heartiest good wishes for the growth and progress of 




■■■' £i 



t^ 




i 



PhologT,iplu<l j Tom iitt -i.'J pnnl '•}■ Henry {. ,h>pi-r _- .'^cn Kindness Ian t-orbes Kofiertion, hiq. 

\'IEW OF MARKET SQUARE, NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAND 




MARKET SQUARE, NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAND 
A more recent view. 



NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS 179 

your City and the best welfare of its inhabitants. I shall also ask the Council to order 
your invitation to be duly inscribed in the records of our Borough, which received its first 
charter from King Richard I on 18th November, anno Domini, 1189. I have the honour 
to be, 

Mr. Mayor and Gentlemen, 

Yours very faithfully, 

EDWARD LEWIS, Mayor." 

One of the interesting features of the celebration was an old stage coach sent by 
Southampton, which was marked "Northampton to Southampton Mail 1809." 

Another speaker on this occasion mentioned the amusing words of Mr. Choate, 
who said: — 

"The Pilgrim Mothers were more worthy of our admiration than the Pilgrim Fathers, 
for they not only endured all the hardships which the Pilgrim Fathers did, but they had 
to endure, in addition, the Pilgrim Fathers themselves." 

When Mr. Campion returned to England he made a report to his Mayor of the 
Northampton celebration, and his account of the proceedings was published in 
the "Northampton Mercury," a few quotations from which may be of interest: — 

"I was made, as your representative, the honoured guest of the city, and in every 
function connected with the Celebration, I was not only placed in positions of honour, 
but the kindliest allusions were made to my presence as the representative of the mother 
city in the old country. For it was made clear that Northampton, Old England, was the 
source from whence sprang Northampton, Mass. I was informed that the New England 
city received its name out of respect to some of the earliest settlers who had come from 
our ancient borough. . . . Nor did I forget to make suitable reference to the Washington 
tomb at Great Brington Church. . . . His E.xcellency, John L. Bates, the Governor of 
Massachusetts, was also present, and in his address gave me a most cordial welcome 
as the representative of the old mother city. In response to my greetings, the large 
assembly stood up in token of their approval of a proposition to reciprocate the good 
wishes of which I was the bearer to the whole of the Sunday-school workers and scholars 
of Northampton, Old England. And through you, Mr. Mayor, I hope I may be permitted 
to convey tJiis reciprocal greeting from the Sunday-schools of Northampton, Mass., as 
an example of one of the important ties which bind together the Old and the New Worlds." 

The English Mayor, in a few appreciative words, moved that the thanks of the 
Council be accorded to him and that his report be entered as public minutes of 
the borough. 

The first church in our Northampton was gathered in 166 1, the congregation 
then consisting of only eight persons, whose names were Eleazar Mather, David 
WDton, William Clarke, John Strong, Henry CunUffe, Hervey Woodward, Thomas 
Roote and Thomas Hanchett. In these days the worshippers were reminded of 
the service by trumpet or drum, as bells were not used in the very early days. 
The first minister was Eleazar Mather, son of Richard Mather of Dorchester, a 
brother of Increase Mather, the greatest of the name, and uncle of Cotton Mather. 
Eleazar was born in Dorchester in 1637. During the later years of the church 




from an old print in the Forbes Library, SoTthdmi'ijn, M j 



A I 'uiruss of Bis Excellency, Bon, Cahin Cooiidge, 
Governor of Massachusetts, Benry F. Long, Esq., 
Secretary to the Governor , and J. L. Barrison, Esq. 



NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS, SHOWING MAIN STREET IN 1838 




From an old print in the Forbes Library, Northampton. Massachusetts 



Kindness of [lis Excellency, Hon. Calvin Coolidge, 
Governor of Massachusetts, Henry F. Long. Esq., 
Secretary to the Governor , and J.L. Barrison, Esq. 



NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS, IN 1842 
From Warner's Coffee House. 



NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS i8i 

other ministers serving, after Mather, were Stoddard, Edwards, Hooker and 
Williams, Edwards perhaps being the most illustrious of all. 

Our Northampton was first settled in 1654, was incorporated a city in 1884, 
and has often been spoken of as "The Meadow City," as it lies in one of the 
most fertile plains in this country. Most of the early settlers were natives of Eng- 
land, who were emigrants to this country in 1630, later journeying from Boston to 
Hartford, Windsor, or Springfield, and thence proceeding up the river to Northamp- 
ton, which was in those days called Nonotuck. Springfield had a hand in the early 
settlement of this town, for we find that out of the twenty-four people who signed 
the petition in 1653, three of them, John Pynchon, Elizur Holyoke and Samuel 
Chapin, came from this flourishing city to help in the new settlement at Northamp- 
ton. Joseph Hawley, Seth Pomeroy, Caleb Strong and Isaac C. Bates are impor- 
tant names in the later history of the town. 

The second plantation created from Northampton lands was called Hadley, 
from a town of similar name in Suffolk, England; Hatfield was also set off, being 
likewise named from a town in Hertfordshire, England. 

In the eighteenth century Northampton, England, was spoken of as "the proud 
beauty of the midlands," and today she still lays claim to this name. It is situated 
in the heart of England, easily accessible, and from every angle is rich in history 
and antiquity. The town is said to have been founded by Behnus, a British 
king, and for centuries it was alternately ravaged by Saxons, Danes and Normans. 
After the Norman invasion, and the marriage of Simon de St. Liz, the first Norman 
earl, to Maud, the daughter of Judith, the widow of the last Saxon Earl of North- 
ampton, the town became the resort of royalty. Here came Henry I, Henry II 
and King John, and in 1564 Queen Elizabeth visited the town and was received in 
great state. Many years later, when Charles I and his queen passed through the 
town, they were presented with costly gifts of plate. Only fourteen miles away, 
at Naseby, on June 14, 1645, the army of Charles I met with defeat. The towns- 
men, since Queen Elizabeth's time, were ever strong Puritans and during the civil 
war favored the Parliamentary party. Charles II, when he "came into his own," 
marked his displeasure by ordering the demolition of the castle and walls of the town. 

America's first woman poet, Anne Bradstreet, was born in this English town. 



NORWICH, CONNECTICUT 

THE people of Norwich, Cormecticut, have always appreciated the fact that 
their city on the Thames, above New London, is named for the large city 
of the same name in Norfolk County, England, and it is for this reason 
that there have been many official and unofficial exchanges of friendship. Members 
of the Gihnan family of Norwich, Connecticut, have made a number of visits to 
the ancient city in England and have also corresponded for many years with the 



i82 NORWICH, CONNECTICUT 

Lord Mayor and other officials. In 1859, Daniel C. Oilman, once president of 
Johns Hopkins University, and brother of William C. Oilman, a citizen of Nor- 
wich, who has carried on a good deal of correspondence with the English Norwich, 
delivered an historical address, which has been published in a volume called "The 
Norwich Jubilee," giving an account of the Connecticut city. WiUiam C. Oilman 
has given to us an interesting account of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary 
of the founding of Norwich, and also mentions the interesting correspondence that 
took place between the two cities in 1905, of which we give copies: — • 

"Guildhall, Norwich, loth January, 1905. 
Dear Mr. Mayor: — 

I have the honour to transmit in a wooden case a Resolution which was 
unanimously passed by the Council of this City on the 22nd November 
last, with newspapers containing an account of such meeting; likewise 
the cushion cover referred to in the Resolution. 

I trust that the case will arrive safely, and that the contents thereof 
will prove an object of interest to your Citizens, and remind them of the 
old City from which yours has taken its name. 

I am, Mr. Mayor, 

Yours faithfully, 
Arnold H. Miller, Town Clerk. 
The Worshipful, 
The Mayor of Norwich, 
Connecticut, U.S.A. 

Norwich At a meeting of the Council of the Mayor, Aldermen, and 
Citizens of the City of Norwich, held on the twenty- 
second day of November, one thousand nine hundred and 
four 

Mr. Alderman Wild moved, Mr. Councillor Hewlett seconded and it was 
unanimously 

Resolved, On the Report and recommendation of the City Committee 
that two of the cushions presented to the Corporation by 
Thomas Baret, Mayor of the City in 1651, for use at, but not 
now required at the Cathedral, be given one to the Castle 
Museum Committee and the other to the Ma3'or and 
Corporation of Norwich, Connecticut, U.S.A. for preserva- 
tion and exhibition in the Museum of that City, and that the 
Town Clerk be authorized to affi.x the Corporate Seal to this 
Resolution. 

Arnold H. Miller, 

Town Clerk," 

"City Clerk's Office, Norwich. 

Whereas, The Council of the Mayor, Aldermen and Citizens of the 
City of Norwich, England, by resolution bearing date November the 
twenty-second, 1904, did, on behalf of that Corporation present to the 
Mayor and Corporation of this City, one of a set of cushions presented 



NORWICH, CONNECTICUT 183 

to the first named Corporation in 165 1 by its then Mayor, Hon. Thomas 
Baret, and said gift has now come into the possession of this Council for 
preservation and exhibition. 

Resolved, That said gift be and it is hereby accepted in the name and 
behalf of the Mayor and Corporation of the City of Norwich, Connect- 
icut, and 

Resolved, That the same be and hereby is perpetually loaned to the 
Norwich Free Academy to be by said Corporation placed in the Slater 
Museum for preservation and exhibition, together with the certified 
copy of the original resolution of gift accompanying the same, and 

Resolved, That the thanks of the Court of Common Council and of the 
citizens here represented by its membership are due and are cordially ex- 
tended to the Donors; and 

Resolved, That a copy of these resolutions suitably engrossed be for- 
warded to the Mayor, Aldermen and Citizens of Norwich, England, 
in testimony of our appreciation of their distinguished consideration. 

Attest, City Clerk, Steven D. Moore." 

The Thomas Baret mentioned above was a brother of Margaret Baret Hun- 
tington, who came from Saybrook, Connecticut, in 1633, and who is the ancestress 
of all the Huntingtons in New England. Another exchange of felicitations took 
place in 1909 at the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of our city, at which 
time the following telegram was received : — 

"Norwich, England, July 5, 1909. 
Gilbert S. Raymond, 

Secretary of Anniversary Celebration Committee, 
Norwich, Conn. U.S.A. 

City of Norwich sends hearty congratulations to American daughter on 
her attaining two hundred and fifty years. 

Signed Walter Rye, Mayor." 

A suitable reply was sent by the Connecticut city. In many places in the city, the 
English flag was flown beside the Star Spangled Banner. 

Invitations were also sent to the Mother City to attend the Quarter Millen- 
nium held in 1909. An interesting ceremony during this celebration was held in 
Old Norwich Town burying ground where the guests of the occasion assembled, 
among the moss-covered stones that marked the graves of many of the forefathers, 
the graves of four being marked by a tall tree, upon the trunk of which were the 
names of the pioneers who were buried there, — Thomas Adgate, Simon Huntington, 
JohnPost and Thomas Waterman, — and also the name of Christopher Huntington, Jr., 
the first male child born in Norwich. We give on page 184 a cut of the monument 



184 



NORWICH, CONNECTICUT 




erected in the first burial place 
in Norwich Town to Major 
John Mason, often spoken of 
as the "Myles Standish of 
Connecticut," who with Win- 
throp, Fenway, Gardner, Hig- 
ginson and Fitch formed the 
first of the little colony at Say- 
brook on the coast. Interesting 
monuments have been placed 
on Sachem Street to Uncas, 
chief of the Mohegans, who 
captured Miantonomo, chief 
of the Narragansetts, names 
too well known in history to be 
described again. There is also 
a monument erected to Mian- 
tonomo on Sachem's Plain. 
There is still another memorial 
that has been erected to 
Thomas Leffingwell, who car- 
ried provisions to Uncas for the 
relief of the Mohegans when 
they were being besieged by 
their enemies. Our Norwich is 
called the "Rose of New Eng- 
land," which name perhaps 
would be disputed by many 
other towns and cities. 

Norwich, England, the cap- 
ital of Norfolk County, is often 
called the "City of Churches," 
and one writer describes it as "either a city in an orchard" or "an orchard 
in a city," as the houses and trees are so attractively blended together. Nor- 
wich is about twenty miles from Yarmouth and is noted for its great antiquity 
and interesting history, having been at one time the seat of the AngIo-Sa.\on 
princes; it has also been the scene of many happenings among the Iceni, Romans, 
Angles, Saxons, Jutes and Danes, its earliest name being, "North-wic," found 
on the early coins. The city has one of the finest market places in England, and 
in the old days it was said that at the Saturday markets the people showed more 
interest in the advance or fall in the price of butter than in any other event of the 




From a pliot'iiiraph 



By W. A'. Slaens 



THE FOUNDERS' MONUMENT, 

erected to Major John Mason and thirty-seven others who 
were settlers in Norwich, Connecticut, in 165Q and 1660. 



NORWICH, CONNECTICUT 185 

week. Americans are particularly interested in the "Maid's Head Hotel," which 
is very old, and which is situated in Tombland, the ancient name of the market 
place. 

The story is told of a Norfolk laborer who decided to migrate to America, and 
who was seen one day driving along the road near Norwich in his farm cart. He 
was asked where he was going, and he replied that he didn't "fare rightly to know 
by what route they were going to the United States," but added, "We'm gwine 
ter sleep't Debenham [thirty miles from Norwich] the first night, so's to kinder 
break the journey." An interesting event that took place in East Anglia was the 
"camping" contest, which was a form of football game between Norfolk and Suf- 
folk, and which took place on the common with three hundred or more on a side. 
These matches were often fatal and it is claimed that one contest resulted in the 
death of nine men during the fortnight of play. In one special event Suffolk won 
after fourteen hours of play, and just as the ball was being thrown in, the Norfolk 
men inquired of their opponents whether they had brought their coffins with them. 

One of the coach routes was between London and Norwich, and at certain times 
of the year the country nearby supplied so many turkeys and geese that the would-be 
passengers complained, particularly near Christmas time, that they could not get 
seats on the coach, as it was piled high, inside and out, with birds on their way to 
the London markets. There are amusing pictures showing the Norwich coach 
loaded with fowl and not a passenger anywhere to be seen. 

The history of the See at Norfolk dates back to the seventh century, when its 
seat was at Dummoc, a Roman station on the coast of Suffolk, now called "Dun- 
wich;" in 1094 the See was transferred to Norwich, and in 1096 Bishop Lozinga 
founded the present cathedral, and also a Benedictine Abbey. The castle which 
is the next important building to the cathedral, and which once covered many 
acres of land, was plundered in 12 16 and later made a prison; it goes back thirteen 
hundred years and perhaps has seen more fighting than any other castle in England. 

The Gurney family, well known in America, has been associated especially with 
Norwich, England, and at one time owned Gurney's Bank. It may be interesting 
also to mention that Edith Cavell's body was brought back from Belgium with great 
ceremony and was buried in an enclosure at the east end of the Cathedral. 

At one time the town of Castor nearby was larger than Norwich as shown by 

this rhyme: — 

"Caistor was a city when Norwich was none, 
And Norwich was built of Caistor stone." 



i86 



PORTSMOUTH AND RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 

THE histories of Portsmouth and Rye are so closely connected that we think 
it best to mention them together. 
The first actual settlement in New Hampshire was made in 1623 at 
Odiorne's Point, opposite Newcastle and across Little Harbour at the mouth of the 
Piscataqua River. The first \'isitor to this part of New Hampshire was Martin 
Pring from Bristol, England, who has been further described under our article on 
"Bristol." This first colony at Odiorne's Point, Rye, has usually been referred to 
as the "Thompson Settlement," for the reason that David Thompson was the 
most prominent person connected with the undertaking, he having been author- 
ized "To found a Plantacon on the river of Piscataqua, to cultivate the vine, 
discover mines, carry on the fisheries, and trade with the natives, to consecrate 
this soil to the service of God and liberty." He came over in the ship 
"Jonathan," and on this point of land erected a dwelling called "Mason Hall." 
Thompson was associated with Sir Ferdinando Gorges and Captain John Mason, 
who had been granted a charter from King James for "planting, ruling, ordering 

and governing New England in America; " 
the latter is usually regarded as the 
"founder of New Hampshire." Gorges 
and Mason we have also mentioned under 
"Bristol," for it is with that town in 
England that their names are so closely 
associated. We give on this page a 
picture of the tablet that has been 
erected to commemorate this first settle- 
ment in the State of New Hampshire. 
This settlement was called Sandy Beach 
for a number of years until the incorpora- 
tion of Newcastle in 1693, when with 
parts of Portsmouth and Hampton it was 
formed into a parish under the name of 
Rye. The few early pioneers, however, 
became discouraged, as they soon had the 
misfortune to bury forty of their number 
in the cemetery nearby, and had it not 
been for the courage of Captain Walter 
Neale, the Governor of the Colony, the 
settlement which finally resulted in the 




From a photograph 



Kindness Wallace Backett, Esq. 



TABLET PL.-^CED ON ODIORNE'S POINT, 
RYE, NEW H.\MPSHIRE, OPPOSITE NEW- 
CASTLE, 

to commemorate the first planting of an English 
colony on the soil of New Hampshire. 



PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



187 




From a photograph 



Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 



TABLET PLACED IN GARRISON CHURCH, PORTSMOUTH, ENGLAND, 

by seven well-known residents of Portsmouth, New Hampshire, in honour of Captain John Mason, who 
was the original proprietor of Portsmouth, New Hampshire, and who held the title of Vice- Admiral of New 
England. 



formation of the State of New Hampshire might have been abandoned. Some 
years later John Odiorne built a house here and established such a large farm that 
the point was finally named after him, and is so called to this day. 

Among the early settlers in Newcastle was Francis Jennings, or Jenness as he 
has sometimes been called, who in 1665 came here with some of his friends from Rye, 
England. A few years later he moved across the river to Sandy Beach and it was 
probably due to him that the name Rye was given to the New Hampshire town. 
Here it is said he established a bakery and distributed his bread among towns along 
the coast in his small pinnace. 

The city of Portsmouth was named in honour of Captain John Mason, who as 
we have said, was the original proprietor of the Pro\'ince of New Hampshire, and 
who was at one time Governor of Portsmouth, England. He had for some time 
been interested in the trade with the New England colonies, and foresaw the possi- 
bilities of this country. To his memory seven prominent citizens of Portsmouth, 
New Hampshire, John Scribner Jenness, Charles Levi Woodbury, Charles Wesley 
Tuttle, Alexander Hamilton Ladd, Charles Henry Bell, Eliza Appleton Haven 
and Charlotte Maria Haven, placed gas standards and a brass tablet, in 
1784, in Garrison Church, Portsmouth, England, the words on the tablet being 
as follows: — 



i88 PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 

To the glory of GOD and in memory of CAPTN 
JOHN MASON— Captain in the Royal Navy- 
Treasurer of the Army — Captain of South 
Sea Castle — Governor of the Colony of 
Newfoundland — Patentee and Founder of 
New Hampshire in America — Vice Admiral 
of New England — Born 1586 Died 1635. 
This faithful churchman, devoted patriot 
and gallant officer of whom England and 
America will ever be proud was buried 
in Westminster Abbey. 

It was not until 1653, though, that Brian Pendleton, Renald Fernald, John Shere- 
bourn, Richard Cutt and Samuel Gaines actually petitioned for the change of the 
name of this territory to its present one, the plantation ha\ang previously been 
called "Piscataqua Settlement" or "Strabery Banke " so named by reason of a 
bank near there where strawberries were found. The name Portsmouth was thought 
by many to be especially appropriate, as the land was situated near a good port 
and at the mouth of a river. 

Several times our city and its namesake in England have corresponded and 
exchanged presents; one of these occasions was in 1874 when the Mayors 
interchanged views of their respective cities and on another occasion the Mayor 
of our city, Hon. Wallace Hackett, who has kindly placed at our disposal a 
history of the English Portsmouth, received views of the English seaport and also 

a letter from the Mayor which read as follows: — 

"Mayor's Office. 
The Town Hall, 
Portsmouth, 28th October, 1908 
Dear Mr. Hackett:— 

Before retiring from Office, I should like to thank you very much for 
the Mementos of your City which you kindly sent me, and think it very 
appropriate indeed that the Mayor of Portsmouth in the new World 
should send such a friendly letter to the Mayor of this ancient Borough. 
I reciprocate the kindly sentiments which you express, and beg to 
extend to yourself or any Member of your Corporation a hearty wel- 
come, should you at any time be visiting this part of the Country. 

With hearty good wishes for the success of yourself and Colleagues 
and the prosperity of your City, 

I am 

Yours very truly, 
F. G. Foster, Mayor." 

In speaking of the early settlements in New Hampshire we must not forget to 
mention the Isles of Shoals which are situated about eight miles from the main- 
land. It is difficult for us to realize that in the early days they were the rendezvous 
of hundreds of English and other ships, that fishing there was carried on very 
actively, and that their population at one time was larger than that of any other 
place in the Eastern pro\dnces. It was also there that the English fishermen called 



PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



189 



in order to learn the latest news from their country. These early days at the Shoals 
are well described by John S. Jenness in these words: — 

"During the entire sixteenth century fishing vessels came hither 
from our eastern waters. Doggers and Pinckies of the English, clumsy 
Busses of Holland, light Fly-boats of Flanders, the Biskiner and 
Portingal and many other odd high-peaked vessels were attracted thither 
summer after summer." 



At one time, about 1661, it was suggested that these islands be called "Apledoore" 
from the Devon fishing village of Appledore, and even to this day one of the group 
bears this name. The islands are closely associated with that great explorer, 
Captain John Smith, who at first called the group by his own name, "Smith's 
Isles" and it was, therefore, quite fitting that the Society of Colonial Wars in 
the State of New Hampshire should dedicate in 1914 a memorial to him on Star 
Island, the services being held three 
hundred years after Captain Smith's 
visit to the shores of New England. 
The words on the tablet are as 
follows : — 



CAPTAIN JOHN SMITH 

1;'- - ir.;- 



Captain JOHN SMITH 

1579-1631 

After proving his valor in 

Europe and America became 

Governor of Virginia 

and 

Admiral of New England 

'While exploring this coast in the 

Spring of 16 14 made the first recorded 

visit to these islands, named by him 

Smith's Isles. 

Not only has this country honoured 
this early explorer, but England has also 
placed an epitaph to his memory in the 
church of St. Sepulchre, London, and the 
inscription thereon begins as follows: — 

"Here lies one conquer'd that hath 

conquer'd Kings, 
Subdu'd large Territories, and done 

things 
Which to the World impossible 

would seeme." 




Photographed Sy St. Clair Studio 

tablet placed on star island, isles 

of shoals, off the coast of new 

h.\:mpshire, 

in honour of the noted English explorer, Captain 
John Smith, who \asited the islands in 1614, naming 
them "Smith's Isles." 



Smith was the author of a book called "Generall Historie of Virginia, New England 
and the Summer Isles." Those who have read the story of his Ufe remember that 
at one time he slew three Turks in the Transylvania Campaign and it was in memory 



U)0 



PORTSMOUTH atid RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 




From " Thf Bfiiinnings of Colonial Maine," by Uenry 6". Burrage, D.D., Uistorian of Maine 

ST. SEPULCHRE CHURCH, LONDON, 

in which Captain John Smith was buried. He was one of the earliest explorers of the New England coast, 
and first named the Isles of Shoals "Smith's Isles." 



of this achievement that the three islands off Cape Ann were named by him " Three 
Turks' Heads" and there is still a Turk's Head Inn at Rockport near Gloucester. 
It is also interesting to mention that he was granted the right by the Heralds' 
College to use three Turks' heads on his coat of arms. Professor Smith, Governor 
of the New Hampshire Society for Colonial Wars, at the dedication of the memorial, 
referred to him as "the navigator, the sailor, the traveller, the explorer, the colo- 
nizer, the ruler, the author and one of the finest types of the race to which he be- 
longed." On the same day as the dedication of the Smith memorial another tablet 
was erected on Star Island to the memory of Rev. John Tucke, whose remains were 
placed under the obelisk. Tucke was born in Hampton, New Hampshire, to which 
town his great-grandfather had come from Suffolk, England. The younger Tucke 
lived at the Isles of Shoals for forty years, and, as the place was primarily a fishing 
settlement, he was paid at one time in "winter fish," and was often referred to as 
the "fisher of men." Another minister of the early days was Rev. John Brock; 
one day the fishermen all came to him begging him to postpone his meeting as they 
wished to go fishing. The minister replied, "If you will go away I say unto you, 



PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



191 



catch fish if you can, but as for you that will tarry and worship the Lord 
this day I will pray unto Him for you that you may catch fish until you are 
weary." The story reads that thirty of the number went fishing and caught 
four fish, while the five who stayed went out in their boats later and hauled in 
five hundred fish. It is also related that church meetings after this were always 
well attended. 

"God save Englonde and the town of Rye." (From Old Customal.) 

Rye in England is in the County of Sussex, and to the millions of 
people who have followed the British Army in Flanders, Ypres Castle in Rye will 
always be of special interest. This castle, which is really only a tower, is of 
great antiquity and was for centuries before the British soldiers fought over the 
famous battlefield of France called "Wipers" Tower, and it was, of course, 
natural that the battle of Ypres and the 
town where it was fought should be 
spelled and pronounced the same way 
as was the old tower in their native 
land. This structure which was built by 
William of Ypres, Earl of Kent, in the 
twelfth century, is in a good state of 
preservation. 

Old Rye is very quaint, with its red- 
roofed dwclKngs clustered about the huge 
rock, which rises sharply from the flat 
green stretches of Romney marshes. It is 
said that some of the streets of the town 
have grass growing between the cobble- 
stones, and there is a story that the Rye 
Corporation used to top-dress this grass 
every spring in order to make it grow so 
well. It is no wonder that artists have 
thronged this attractive place, which was 
called "Rye Royal" by Queen EUzabeth 
during her visit there. The earliest notice 
in history was at the time the Danes 
landed near there in a.d. 893. During the 
reign of Edward the Confessor, he gave 
Rye to the abbots and monks of Fecamp 
in Normandy, France, because he liked 
that country and wanted to help her 
people. Henry III, however, at once e.x- 




Plwlograph by F. Frith 
ty Co., Rngitind 



Kindness Ian Forbes- 
Robertson, F.sq. 



HOUSE IN RYE, ENGLAND, IN WHICH 

HENRY JAMES LIVED FROM 

1898 TO 1016 

It is on the right of the street and is known as 
the "Lamb House." The house in the back- 
ground is known as the banqueting-hall and 
was used by Mr. James as his Hbrary, where 
he did all his work, 



192 



PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 




I'hoUt^raph by F. Frith ^ Co., England Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson. Esq. 

MERMAID STREET, RYE, ENGLAND, SHOWING MERMAID INN (on right) 

Rye is a most attractive town, with its quaint and narrow streets, many of which are cobblestoned. 

changed Rye for other property in Gloucestershire and Lincolnshire, which he 
allowed the monks to hold. 

Rye is said to have received its name from the Latin Ria, or from the 
British word Rhy, meaning a ford or bay, although the best authorities 
claim the name came from the French Rie, meaning a bank of the sea. To 
New Englanders the cormection of Henry James with the English town is 
of special interest, for it was there that he lived for part of each of twenty 
years, in the old Lamb house, which we show on page 191 together with 
his Hbrary, in which he wrote many of his books. Mr. James was a familiar 
figure in the town and when he died he was much missed by the inhabitants. 
There is an interesting tragedy connected with this Lamb, who was the previous 
owner of the house in which James lived. Lamb once sentenced a certain butcher 
for false weights, whereupon the latter stabbed by mistake a man called Grebell, 
who had lived in the house before Lamb bought it and who was a relative of Lamb. 
This murder of an innocent man caused such a tremendous sensation that the skull 
of the butcher and the gibbet upon which he was hung are both preserved in the 
town hall. One of the attractive streets of the town is caUed Mermaid Street, 
upon which is situated Mermaid Inn. 



PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



193 

1 




From a copy of a picture by Turner, owned by a, Boston collector Formerly in the collection of J . H. Seers, Essex, England. 

PORTSMOUTH, ENGLAND, 1825 



Portsmouth Harbour, England, and the long sea road between the Isle of Wight 
and Hampshire is so safe for vessels that seamen often call it the "King's Bed- 
chamber." Portsmouth is one of the famous cities of England and, of course, 
received its name from the mouth of the port, which was believed in this case would 
become the port of England. The name was originally derived from the Roman 
word Portus. The earliest record of the island of Portsea, upon which the city is 
situated, was during the time of King Ethelred, who granted it to the new Minster 
at Winchester. Portsmouth Harbour was used by the Romans, who built the for- 
tress of Porchester; the port was also used by Henry III as the place for assembling 
his expeditions to Gascony, between which place and Portsmouth much trade was 
carried on at one time. To Portsmouth also came Charles I. A bust of this king 
is set up high in the wall of the great tower at the foot of High Street and beneath 
the bust is the following inscription: 

After his travels through all France into Spain, and having passed very 
many dangers both by sea and land, he arrived here the 5 th day of 
October, 1623. 

Here also landed Catherine, consort of Charles II, from Lisbon just previous to 
their marriage; here too landed the present Prince of Wales on his return from his 
recent visit to Canada and the United States. 



194 PORTSMOUTH and RYE, NEW EL^MPSHIRE 

A curious custom of the place was for the rope-makers from the great rope-walks 
to escort the kings when they visited the city. There was also in the city an old 
gun wharf, as it was called, which was built in 1662 by a contractor, whose name, 
curiously enough, was William Shakespeare, and the place where his workmen were 
paid off is still called Shakespeare's Head. In the center of the town is the parish 
church, which was erected in the early part of the thirteenth century, and which was 
dedicated to Thomas a Becket; in the cupola of this church was a lantern in which 
was a bell that used to be rung whenever a ship appeared in the harbour. Ports- 
mouth was also a great shipbuilding center as early as the days of King John, and 
from then until now many notable vessels of the English Navy have been launched 
there. The Free Mart Fair, which has been held in Portsmouth for many years 
and which we believe is held there to this day, is spoken of in these words: — • 

"Ye lovers of Fun to Portsmouth repair 
And see the delights that abound at our fair." 

It is impossible to mention all the important events that have taken place in 
this great English seaport, but it will be of special interest to Americans, as well 
as to Englishmen, to mention that Charles Dickens was born in the Borough of 
Portsmouth. 

Portsmouth, on the island of Newport, Rhode Island, was also named after the 
English city. Some of its early settlers became dissatisfied and removed to the 
other end of the island, founding Newport, one of the foremost watering places 
of the world. Among these early settlers of Newport were William Coddington, 
William Brenton and Thomas Hazard. Brenton owned a large farm on Bren- 
ton's Point, so called to this day. 



SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 

IN 1900 the late Col. Charles L. Norton of our Sandwich visited the town of the 
same name in England from which our Cape town got its name, and several 
years later he received three seals from the English Mayor, one of which he suc- 
ceeded in having adopted by Sandwich, Massachusetts, as its official seal. In 191 2, 
Henry B. Russell, Esq., of the neighboring town of Bourne, which was once part of 
Sandwich, visited the old town of Sandwich, England, and brought back a number 
of pictures, which now hang in the reference room of the Sandwich Public Library. 
Just before the Great War, William L. Nye, Esq., another resident of our town, 
had some correspondence with the Curator of the mother town, who sent a number 
of photographs which we have had reproduced on page 195. Mr. Nye has just 
been able to trace a piece of the wainscoting from the town hall of old Sandwich, 
which was sent in 1913 to a member of the Wing family of our town, by Mr. J. A. 
Jacobs, Curator of the Sandwich archives in England. This relic of old England, 




From 't picture in possession of William L. Nye, Esq., of Sandwich, Massachusetts A ituiness Wilii.im L . Xye, Esq. 

SANDWICH, ENGLAND— SANDOWN ROAD 




From a picture in poisessioit of William L. S ye, Esq., o; S^jtului. h. M 



Kiiuliii . \\'!.:i.im L. Xye, Esq 



CATTLE MARKET AND TOWX HALL, SANDWICH, ENGLAND 



196 



SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a photograph 



Kiruincss James L. Wesson, Esq., 
and Henry M. Hutchtni^s, Esq. 



NYE FAMILY BOULDER, SANDWICH, 

MASSACHUSETTS 
Erected by the Nye family in America in 
memory of their ancestors, the Nyes and the 
Tuppers, early settlers in this Cape Cod town. 
The inscription is given on page 197. 



dating back to the year 1570, has just 
been returned by Colonel Wing from out 
West, at the suggestion of Mr. Nye, and 
will now be placed among the antiquities 
in the Sandwich Historical Society. Mem- 
bers of the Wing family for many years 
have been corresponding with Mr. Jacobs. 
The Mayor of the English town also sent 
over to the Wing family (on the occasion 
of one of their family reunions) some 
books and papers. Further than this we 
have been unable to trace any direct com- 
munications between the two towns. 

This old Cape Cod town vies with its 
sister Yarmouth in attractions, and perhaps 
suggests something of the picturesque old 
English town of Sandwich on the river Stour, which was one of the Cinque-ports 
of the ancient days. Nothing but a forest wilderness, reaching down to the salt 
marshes which bordered the stretches of white beach, greeted the eyes of those 
first settlers who early in the year 1637 chose this spot on the Cape as a satisfactory 
place "to sit down." This territory had previously been used as a trading post, 
for it formed a most convenient halting place on the route between Plymouth and 
the Dutch colonies of New York. Its actual settlement, however, dates to that 
year, 1637, when, as stated in the old Plymouth records, "it is also agreed by the 
Court that these tenn men of Saugust, viz, Edmond Freeman, Henry Feake, 
Thomas Dexter, Edward Dillingham, William Wood, John Carman, Richard 
Chadwell, William Almy, Thomas Tupper, and George Knott shall have liberty 
to view a place to sitt down and have sufficient lands for three score famylies 
upon the conditions propounded to them by the Governor and Mr. Winslowe." 
The settlement was incorporated as a town on September 3, 1637, and named 
for Sandwich in Kent County, England, where several of the early settlers once 
lived. The boundary lines were established by the Puritan Captain, Miles 
Standish, and his friend John Alden, when Plymouth ordered the town to be laid 
out. Before the end of the year this little group of pioneers was joined by fifty 
others who came chiefly from Lynn, Saugus, Duxbury and Plymouth. The 
names that have appeared often in the history of the town are Freeman, 
Dillingham, Tuttle, Allen, Besse, Blackwell, Bodfish, Bourne, Briggs, Burgess, 
Ewer, Hallett, Harlow, Holway, Sanders, Nye and Wing; the few lines of poetry 
which we quote and which were written at the time of the two hundred and 
fiftieth anniversary make further mention of some of the names that have meant 
so much to the town:^ 



SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 

"The names of Freeman and of Bourne, 
Nye, Dillingham, and their compeers; 
We trace, from first to last, upon 
The annals of this ancient town." 



197 



In 1908 there was erected in the village of Sandwich, in the village square 
near the present town house, a large boulder shown on page 196 to which 
was affixed a tablet in memory of the an- 
cestors of Benjamin Nye, the earliest an- 
cestor of the Nye family in this country, and 
the inscription thereon reads as follows: — 

1637 

ERECTED BY THE NYE FAMILY OF AMERICA 

TO THE MEMORY OF THEIR ANCESTORS 

BENJAMIN NYE AND 

KATHARINE TUPPER HIS WIFE 

WE BEST SERVE THE INTEREST OF POSTERITY 

BY TREASURING THE MEMORY OF OUR ANCESTORS 

1908 

On the farm still owned by the descen- 
dants of Edmond Freeman there are two 
large boulders called the Saddle and Pil- 
lion Rocks which mark the graves of him- 
self and his wife. The tradition is that 
after the death of his wife, Freeman, who 
was the first settler in Sandwich of that 
name, had these boulders drawn by oxen 
to their present location, placing the Pil- 
lion stone over the grave of his wife, 
giving at the same time instructions that 
the Saddle stone should be placed over his 
own grave, upon his death. 

Within a few years descendants of 
Edmond Freeman and his wife have had a 
The inscription on the Saddle stone reads 




From <I photoi^rj ph 

Kindness Ciiplain John S. Carpenter, V.S.N ., and Benry 
M. HuUhings, Esq. 

THE "SADDLE" ROCK, SANDWICH, 
MASSACHUSETTS, 

placed over the grave of Edmond Freeman, 
who was one of the earliest settlers in our 
Sandwich, and who was bom in England in 
1590. 



tablet set into each of these stones, 
as follows: — 



EDMOND FREEMAN 

BORN IN ENGLAND 159O 

DIED IN SANDWICH 1 68 2 

A FOUNDER OF THE TOWN OF SANDWICH IN 1637 

ASSISTANT TO GOVERNOR BRADFORD 

164I-1647 



198 



SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a photoKr<iph 

Kindness Captain John S, Carpenter, USJf., and Benry M Butchings, Esq. 

THE "PILLION"' ROCK, SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS, 

marking the grave of Edmond Freeman's wife, Elizabeth. These 
two stones, known as the "Saddle" and "Pillion" Rocks, are on the 
farm still owned by Edmond Freeman's descendants. After the death 
of his wife. Edmond Freeman placed the "Pillion" over her grave 
and directed that upon his death the "Saddle" should be placed 
over his own grave. 



The inscription on the 
tablet on the Pillion Rock 
reads as follows: — 

EUZABETH WIFE OF 

EDMOND FREEMAN 

BORN IN ENGLAND 1600 

DIED IN SANDWICH 1675-6 

During King Philip's 
War, which resulted in the 
devastation of so many 
frontier towns, Sandwich 
and several other Cape 
Cod towns invited the 
dwellers in the stricken 
settlements to take refuge 
with them, for none of the 
Cape tribes joined with 
Philip in this uprising, 
many even serving against 
him. The friendliness on 
the part of these Indians was due in no small measure to the work of the Cape Cod 
missionaries, among whom were Richard Bourne and Thomas Tupper of Sandwich. 
The former settled in the town in 1637, became an instructor to the Mashpee In- 
dians in 1658, and was ordained as a preacher by Eliot and Cotton in 1670. So 
great was the affection of the Indians for this missionary and his family, that in 
1723, forty-one years after his death, when a Bourne child was suffering from a 
disease which the physicians believed incurable, the Indians came with their medicine 
men, and, with the mother's permission, gave the child their simple remedies which 
resulted in a cure. Thomas Tupper was a missionary among the Herring River 
Indians, and in the diary of Judge Samuel Sewall are found extracts relating to a 
church which was built for the Indians at this place under Tupper's supervision, 
and at the expense of Judge Sewall. This was the first meeting house in this vicinity 
to be made of sound and lasting material, in the English fashion, the carjienter, 
Edward Milton of Sandwich, having been ordered to build a "convenient, com- 
fortable meeting-house for the natives at Sandwich" and to finish it properly, 
"by making and well hanging the doors, clapboarding in the inside well and filling 
the walls with shavings or other suitable matter for warmth." From that time 
to the present. Sandwich has well maintained its churches. There are now five 
church buildings in the village, and the sight of the spires and towers across the 
meadows which meets the eye of the traveler on the railroad when approaching 
the town is an inspiring one. The spire of the Congregational Church, although 



SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 



199 




From a photograph 



Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq., and J. A . Jacobs, Esq. 

BARBICAN, SANDWICH, ENGLAND, 
a picturesque gate of the town. 



somewhat reduced in dimensions, is on the same beautiful lines as that of the Park 
Street Church in Boston. 

There was a curious law in our Sandwich in the early days forbidding a }'oung 
man to marry imtil he had killed so many blackbirds, which was a condition that 
was imposed in order to keep a constant ratio between the number of spinsters and 
the number of poor marksmen. It was quite natural that Sandwich, situated as 
it was upon the seacoast, should have become a seafaring community. Here mari- 
time pursuits were carried on sometimes in defiance of the King, as in the case of 
drift whales which from time immemorial had belonged to the crown. Another 
reference to this industry appears in the records of the year 1702, when the town 
voted to its pastor, Rev. Rowland Cotton, as part of his salary, "all such drift 
whales as shall, during the time of his ministry, be driven or cast ashore within the 
limits of the town, being such as shall not be killed with hands." It may be as- 
sumed that some of the funds thus diverted from the King's treasury went towards 
a new Sunday gown for Madam Cotton. The revenue that the settlers derived 
from a tax on mackerel was used for the support of the public school. 



200 SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 

The Earl of Sandwich, who died in 1792, derived his title from Sandwich, Eng- 
land. He was the First Lord of the Admiralty in 1778, when Captain Cook dis- 
covered the Sandwich Islands, which were named for him. There is so much history 
surrounding the English town that we can mention only a few of the important 
events that are connected with the ancient seaport, which was at one time known as 
"Sondwic." Most of the pioneers who came from Kent to this country doubtless 
often had visions of this sleepy, picturesque Old World town, with its ancient 
churches, its crooked streets, and its high gables — the port where once the galleys of 
imperial Rome lay at anchor. The town is first mentioned in 664 during the life 
of St. Wilfrid, when it is related that the Bishop returning from France arrived 
"happily and pleasantly " in the haven of Sandwich, the town probably having been 
founded about that time. The territory about Sandwich was reclaimed from the seas 
in historic times, but it can hardly be said to be a port now, as the sands have shifted 
to such a great extent. Its decline began during the Tudor days and during the reign 
of Henry VII the river diminished so much that the harbour became very poor, 
while during the reign of Queen Elizabeth it was hardly used at all. Few vessels 
now go up the river Stour, and the shipping that once existed there to a considerable 
degree has been abandoned. At one time the Corporation of Sandwich complained 
that the people carried ofl too much sand that was left when the river fell; the 
Corporation claimed that these persons should be sentenced to capital punishment, 
but that the river had become so low it would be impossible to drown them if it 
got much lower. Many more attempts were made to improve the harbour but 
without much success. Soon after the time of Queen Elizabeth the town grew 
very prosperous, and many serge, baize and flannel workers came to the town, 
which fact has been commented upon in England in the following words: — 

"Hops, Reformation, baize and beer 
Came into England all in a year." 

Fortunately, as the town lost the use of its harbour, a number of Huguenots were 
brought over by Queen Ehzabeth from the Netherlands and they founded the in- 
dustries of weaving and market-gardening, thereby causing great prosperity. It 
is also said that celery was first grown in England by these new-comers to Sand- 
wich. We will mention only a few names connected with the town and not neces- 
sarily in chronological order. In 851, Athelstan, King of Kent, fought a battle 
here against the Danes, which resulted in their defeat and the capture of nine of 
their ships. A few months later, the enemy again appeared in the mouth of the 
Thames with three hundred and fifty vessels, landed on the Kentish shore, and 
pillaged Sandwich and Canterbury; there is a legend that King Arthur set out 
from here with his army and a great multitude of ships to give battle against Rome, 
returning also to this port; here Edward the Confessor lived for some time, while 
collecting his fleet; from here in 1 164 Thomas a Becket, after his flight from North- 



SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 



20I 



ampton, set sail on a fishing vessel, later 
returning to the same port, where he was 
received with great joy by the towns- 
people; here, too, in 1194 King Richard I 
landed after imprisonment by Leopold, 
Duke of Austria; here Edward IH went 
to rendezvous his fleet before sailing for 
France. About this time a curious regu- 
lation was made that the dredgers were not 
allowed to sell their oysters to strangers 
until all the inhabitants of Sandwich had 
first been supplied. Another event that 
we might mention was the arrival at Sand- 
wich in 1357 of Edward the Black Prince, 
with his prisoner the luckless John, King 
of France, on their way from Bordeaux, 
after the battle of Poitiers. Queen Eliza- 
beth was so interested in the town that in 
1572 she made a visit there and was re- 
ceived with much splendor. The house 
where she stayed is now used as a private 
residence. In 1670, Queen Catherine 

visited the town with her great cavalcade, and her visit has been commemorated 
by a series of paintings which were formerly in a private house, but which have 
now been removed to the Guildhall. The old town was also the resort of many 
others of the royalty of England. 

There is also a Sandwich in New Hampshire. 




From a photograph 



STRAND STREET, SANDWICH, 
ENGLAND 

Most of the streets in Sandwich are narrow 
and winding. 



WAREHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 



THE only official correspondence between the Warehams of old England 
and New England took place in 1879 at the time of the bi-centennial of 
Rochester, now part of our Wareham, when Hon. Thomas Lean Skewes 
of the English town wrote to our town. There is no question but that the Cape 
Cod town, Uke many others nearby, was named after the old town in Dorset 
County, England, which is a quaint, sleepy village of about two thousand inhabit- 
ants, dating back to the time when the Romans held possession of England. It 
is occasionally enlivened, however, at the time of the election for the local member 
of Parliament, when the respective candidates address their constituents from the 
"hustings," as they are called, where many a battle royal has been fought and many 




From li pliolograph Kni-m ... ., .' , 

ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH, \VAREH.\M, ENGLAXD 
A rare example of a Sa.xon building, having remained practically intact for over twelve hundred years. 



WAREHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 203 

a head has been broken. The town is very tranquil, as another picture on the 
following page shows, and all that remains of the ancient days are the huge earth- 
works of Roman construction which almost surround the town. There is also 
evidence that the place was a British camp even before the Romans landed on 
English soil and fortified the place. 

The eastern part of Wareham, on Cape Cod, was known to the Indians as " Aga- 
wam" and was sold to the Plymouth colony in 1655, which some years later resold 
it to Joseph Warren, WilUam Clark, Joseph Bartlett, Josiah Morton, Isaac Little 
and Seth Pope. The western part belonged to Rochester, and in the year 1739 
both tracts of land were incorporated under the name of Wareham. The earliest 
permanent settlers, however, came from Hingham, Massachusetts, chief of them 
being Israel Fearing, whose family played an important part in the history of the 
town. The township was incorporated in July, 1739, the first minister chosen being 
Rev. Roland Thatcher, who was born in Barnstable, Massachusetts, and who was 
ordained December 26th, 1739. He was succeeded by Rev. Josiah Cotton. Other 
settlers of Wareham came from Sandwich, Rochester and Barnstable, Massachu- 
setts. 

Wareham, at the mouth of the Frome River in Dorsetshire, occupies the site 
of the old Roman station Morino, and takes its name from the Roman designation 
of the town. Its fame is undoubtedly due to the fact that Horace Walpole was a 
native of the town, and that from there lime and cement are exported, as well as 
potter's clay, much of which is sent to America and various parts of the Continent. 

An historian says: "In Saxon times it was already a place of note, and it is 
said that Beohrtric, King of Wessex, was buried here a.d. 800. During the period 
of the Danish invasions those piratical marauders continually landed at Wareham, 
and made it their headquarters. In 1015 Canute entered the Frome, and having 
ravaged Dorset, Somerset and Wilts, and plundered Ceme Abbey, returned hither, 
and sailed thence to Brownsea. At the time of the Domesday Survey the unfor- 
tunate town was in very simken fortunes, but it revived again under the rule of the 
Conqueror, who appointed two mint masters here, the same number it had in the 
time of .iEthelstan. The strength of its position brought much misery on the in- 
habitants during the struggle between Stephen and the Empress Maud. It was 
seized for the latter by Robert of Gloucester in 1138. The next year Baldwin de 
Redvers, one of the Empress' warmest adherents, landed here and seized Corfe 
Castle. It was taken and burned by Stephen in 1 142 during the temporary absence 
of the Earl of Gloucester, who on his return with young Prince Henry, then a boy of 
nine, retook the town and castle, the latter after an obstinate defence of three weeks. 
In 1 146, when Prince Henry was forced to leave the kingdom, he took ship here for 
Anjou. After this the poor town seems to have enjoyed a breathing time. John 
landed here in 1205, and again eleven years later. In 12 13 Peter of Pomfret, the 
hermit, who had foretold the king's deposition, was brought out of his prison at 




Iri'ni ,j /"i .'. ,r ;/i/j Kindtuss liiH Forbcs'Robertson, Esq. 

TOW PATH, SOUTH BRIDGE AND TRINITY CHURCH TOWER, WAREHAM, ENGLAND 




hfom a photograph Kiruiness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

NORTH STREET, WAREHAM, ENGLAND, 
showing St. Martin's Church on the right in the background. 



WAREHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 205 

Corfe, and, after being dragged through the streets of the town, was hanged and 
quartered here. 

"During the civil wars of the seventeenth century it again became the object 
of contention between the two parties, being repeatedly taken and retaken, after 
its first occupation for the Parliament in 1642. The townspeople were chiefly loyal 
to the Crown. Their 'dreadful mahgnancy' was used as an argument by Sir 
Anthony Ashley Cooper for the complete destruction of the town, as it would cer- 
tainly be occupied by the royal forces on the first opportunity, unless it was 'plucked 
down and made no town.' The ruin averted then was accomplished one hundred 
and twenty years later, July 25, 1762, when nearly the whole town was consumed by 
fire; but two years after, it rose from its ashes ' fairer than before. ' " 



WOODSTOCK, VERMONT, AND WOODSTOCK, CONNECTICUT 

IN St. James Episcopal Church at Woodstock, Vermont, shown in the cut, are 
two carved wooden panels which came from St. Mary Magdalen's Church 
in Woodstock, England. One of these panels is on each side of the chancel, 
and below one is the following inscription: — 

These panels were given by the Rector and Parishioners of St. Mary 
Magdalen's Church Woodstock (Oxfordshire) England and once formed 
a part of the eighteenth century organ loft of that ancient church. 

This attractive Vermont town was named after the place of the same name in 
Coimecticut, which in turn was so called from the town of Woodstock in England. 
The first person to settle in the Vermont town was James Sanderson, who came 
there about 1670 from Leicester, Massachusetts, having previously Hved in Water- 
town, Massachusetts. The records show that he was chosen one of the hog drivers 
of Woodstock in the year 1774. 

Woodstock, Connecticut, is closely associated with Massachusetts, for we are 
told that Rev. John Ehot was Avont to pray from his pulpit in Roxbury for his 
parishioners, the fathers of the Connecticut town, many of whom went there from 
Roxbury. 

A town meeting was held in Roxbun.' in 1683 to arrange for the new settlement 
in Connecticut, and at this meeting a number of prominent citizens drew up a 
petition to the General Court of Massachusetts which was at once granted. The 
following year, after the terms set forth were accepted by Roxbur^^ Samuel and 
John Ruggles, John Curtis and Edward Morris were sent out to "view the wilder- 
ness and find a convenient place." At first the settlement was called New Roxbury 
after the Massachusetts town, but finally the citizens, desiring to have a name of 



2o6 WOODSTOCK, VERMONT, and WOODSTOCK, CONNECTICUT 




nm a photograph Kituinr^^ Wm. RoiJm'in Fay, Esq. 

ST. JAMES CHURCH, WOODSTOCK, VERMONT 
In this church are two panels given by St. Mar>- Magdalen's Church, in Woodstock, England. 



their own, adopted the suggestion of Judge Sewall, that it be called Woodstock, 
his notes on this subject appearing in his diary as follows: — 

■' I gave New Roxbury the name of Woodstock, because of its nearness 
to Oxford, for the sake of Queen Elizabeth, and the notable meetings 
that have been held at the place bearing that name in England, some 
of which Dr. Gilbert informed me of when in England. It stands on 
a Hill. I saw it as I (went) to Coventry, but left it on the left hand. 
Some told Capt. Ruggles that I gave the name and put words in his 
mouth to desire of me a Bell for the Town." 

The two New England Woodstocks remember with pride their historic mother 
town, which is about eight miles from the town of O.xford, and fifty odd miles from 
London. The appearance of the town has hardly changed an iota during the last 
three quarters of a century. Here have dwelt many of the kings of England; here 
King Alfred translated Boethius' Consolations of Philosophy; and here, to the dis- 
pleasure of his French wife, Eleanor, Duchess of Aquitaine, Henry II brought 
the fair Rosamond, around whose name cluster so many stories which the light of 
modern research has proved untrue. Algernon Charles Swinburne has made use 
of one of the myths in his "Rosamond," the first scene of which is laid in 
"The Maze at Woodstock," while Tennyson refers to Rosamond's terror of Queen 
Eleanor in his "Dream of Fair Women." Here Becket came, and Chaucer too. 



2o8 WOODSTOCK, VERMONT, and WOODSTOCK, CONNECTICUT 

who laid one of his scenes in "The Dream" in the park of Woodstock; Princess 
Elizabeth was also imprisoned here by her sister Mary. Tennyson also has faith- 
fully reproduced the scene and the inscription made by Elizabeth on her prison 
window : — 

"Much suspected, of me 
Nothing proved can be, 
Quoth Elizabeth, Prisoner." 

From this town Sir Walter Scott, too, procured the material for his novel "Wood- 
stock." 

Saxon and Norman kings for centuries hunted and feasted in Woodstock. One 
of the last royal banquets was held here for James II in 1687. Some years later 
the palace was declared to be beyond repair, and in 1 704 the royal manor of Wood- 
stock was given to John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, as a reward for his famous 
\actory at Blenheim. Parliament bestowed £500,000 with which to build the 
present palace that bears the name of the little village where the Duke of Marl- 
borough attained his victory, and in the park the trees are said to be arranged in 
the order of the battle of Blenheim. The acorns from one of the oaks in this park 
were collected a few years ago and sent either to Woodstock, Vermont, or to Wood- 
stock, Connecticut. Much of the beauty of the modern park is due to the genius 
of "Capability" Brown, the landscape gardener, who by damming the river Glyme, 
formed a lovely lake on the grounds of the palace, boasting that 

' ' The Thames will never forgive me for what 
I have done at Blenheim!" 

Doctor Johnson, however, who visited the park many years later, irascibly re- 
marked, "The epigram has been drowned!" The present Duke of Marlborough, 
Charles John Spencer Churchill, K.G., married Consuelo, the daughter of W. K. 
\'anderbilt, Esq., of New York. 



WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

WORCESTER, Massachusetts, was undoubtedly named after the Battle 
of Worcester which was fought on Worcester Plains in 165 1 between 
the armies of King Charles II and Cromwell. An ancient building in 
old Worcester called The Commandery, founded by St. Wulfstan in 1095, is 
pointed out as the house in which the King took refuge, and from which he escaped 
by the back door. Many relics of this battle have been dug up, and in 190S the 
mother city sent to her namesake two suits of annour which had been worn by 
soldiers of King Charles in this conflict. On page 210 is a picture of one of 
these suits, both of which were placed in the Mayor's office in City Hall. The 




E^-^iSST^f^w ^^ 






Photographed J roni " TAe History and A ntiquilies of the City and Suburbs of Worcester," by Valentine Green, i/(j6 




Photograph by F. Frith <3' Co., England 



Kindness Mrs. Mary Fijield King 



WORCESTER, ENGLAND 



210 




From a photograph By E. B. Line 

ONE OF TWO SUITS 
OF ARMOUR USED 
IN THE BATTLE OF 
WORCESTER 

brought over in 1908 
by Col. Albert Webb of 
VVorcester, England, as a 
present to Worcester, 
Massachusetts. It is now 
in the City Hall, Worcester, 
Massiichusctts. 



at th 



WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

presentation of these interesting gifts was made by Col. 

Albert Webb, who brought them over as a donation from 

the Corporation of Worcester, England, together with this 

letter from the Mayor of old Worcester, Hon. John Stal- 

lard : — 

"The Mayor, Aldermen and citizens of the city of Worces- 
ter and county of the same name in England send a hearty greet- 
ing to the Mayor and Corporation of the city of Worcester in 
Massachusetts, and beg their acceptance, as a token of friendly 
remembrance, of the accompanying two suits of armour, form- 
ing part of nine suits, which, with a brass cannon, were [pre- 
sented to our city by a former member of the corporation as 
having been used by the soldiers of King Charles the Second 
at the battle of Worcester, September 3d, 1651, and we have 
intrusted Col. Albert Webb, V.D., JP-, a member of our cor- 
poration to make the presentation of the said suits of armour, 
with a hearty assurance of our good will toward the city of 
Worcester in America. Given under our common seal this 
1 6th day of October, 1908." 

A committee of well-known Worcester people which in- 
cluded Louis H. Buckley, Charles W. Stevens, Frederick 
Midgley, John A. Larkin, Frederick H. Luke, George H. 
Coates, Arthur B. Brunell, John P. Holmgren, Peter F. 
Sulhvan, Samuel S. Green and Nathaniel Paine was ap- 
pointed to receive Colonel Webb, who during his visit 
stayed at the house of Mr. Paine. The presentation took 
place in the Mayor's room in City Hall and the gifts 
were received by Hon. James Logan, who was Mayor 
time. Colonel Webb in his speech made the following 



of Worcester 
remarks: — 

"Good-will and high esteem e.xist all over our country towards this great and power- 
ful nation. We hope that this incident will create an alwavs broadening movement of 
cordial good feeling in America towards the mother country that will be felt even to the 
farthest confines of this continent. We wish it to be a token and a proof that only the 
best of good feeUng prevails in England towards America and we hope that the good-will 
which now exists, and is so essential to the peace of the whole world, will be welded into 
an unbreakable tie between us. I hope that you will always see in the significance of this 
gift the guarantee that the two great English-speaking nations of the earth are indisso- 
lubly bound together by ties of blood and friendship that nothing can sever." 

Mayor Logan's reply included these words: — 

' ' We will give these relics an honored place in our city as a memorial of the men who 
fought for both you and us in Worcester, England, so many years ago." 

The first settlers of Massachusetts at an early date began to move from the 
coast towards the beautiful Lake Quinsigamond, which was the name of the set- 



WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



211 

1 




B.YlE^-yoi-^'OlRCiCSTlEa CATHlliJDIRAIL, 1789 . 



1/ 



I ,wf// -JS^ J^^f /y/v/<«#i. (S^-il/i/f 



. '^ „>& 

from an old print in " The History and A ntiquities of the City and Suburbs of Worcester,'^ Valentine Green, ijgd 

NORTHEAST VIEW OF WORCESTER CATHEDRAL, ENGLAND, 1789 
Some fragments from this cathedral were sent to All Saints Church in Worcester, Massachusetts. 

tlement on the place where Worcester now is. It was called Quinsigamond, mean- 
ing "fishing place for pickerel," until 1684, when it was changed to Worcester. 
There had been a settlement at Springfield and the General Court thought it desir- 
able to have a place midway between this town and Boston where travelers and 
horses could rest and spend the night. Daniel Gookin, Edward Johnson, Joshua 
Fisher and Thomas Noyes were therefore appointed a committee in 1665 to 
survey the land near the lake and to determine if there was a "meet place for a 
plantation." A few years later, the committee, though somewhat changed in 
personnel, reported that the place showed great prospects of being made into an 
attractive village, and recommended that the Court " reserve it for a town." From 
1657 to 1664 the Court made grants of this land to the church at Maiden, to 
Increase Norwell of Charlestown, and to Thomas Noyes of Sudbury. The latter 
sold his land to Ephraim Curtis of Sudbury, who has been considered the first 
white settler of Worcester. He was the only white man between Marlboro and 
Brookfield, and it is said that after a hard day's work he would sit down and, look- 



WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a photograph 

ALL SAIXTS CHURCH, WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 
In this church are relics, shown in another cut, sent as a present by Worcester Cathedral, Worcester, England. 

ing towards Sudbury, in his loneliness would shed tears. He distinguished himself 

later during the attack of King Phihp at Brookfield. The village, destroyed by 

the Indians several years later, was rebuilt, but again was destroyed, remaining 

unoccupied until 1684, when Captain Henchman and his associates returned and 

built a citadel. Curtis' son was one of the number and has gone down in history 

as the first of his family to become a permanent settler. This settlement was 

again destroyed by the Indians, but was rebuilt in 17 13 by Jonas Rice, who 

was really responsible for the establishment of the first permanent settlement in 

the town. A tablet to his memory has been placed on a boulder on Heywood 

Street, the inscription reading as follows: — 

On this site 

In 1 713 

Major Jonas Rice 

Made the first 

Permanent Settlement 

in Worcester 

Placed by 

The Worcester Society of Antiquity. 



WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



213 




lUMdKtttTA'n. 



There have been some other interchanges of presents between the two cities, 
the chief one being some fragments of the Cathedral of Worcester, England, which 
have been placed as an attractive decoration in the wall of the porch of All Saints 
Church in our Worcester. At the time of the dispute over the Oregon boundary, 
when our relations with England were somewhat strained, letters were sent from 
Worcester, America, to Worcester, England, assuring them of our friendship, and 
a cordial answer was returned, both of which are preserved in the Worcester Public 
Library here. Other correspondence followed, including a letter written during the 
Mexican War by friends in Worcester, England, to the superintendents, teachers and 
friends of Sabbath-schools and religious education in Worcester, Massachusetts. 
Some years later, in the year 1874, John Davis Washburn, representing a com- 
mittee, took over to the English town a collection of books as a present. It was at 
this time that the fragments from the Cathedral of Worcester were brought back to 
this country, and the tablet shown in the cut below carefully describes their history. 

The English Mayor a few years later 
wrote to the American city as follows : — 

"I truly am doubtful which is best; to 
have a comfortable past behind you all 
settled and arranged or a future before you, 
with all its possibilities." 

At the formal opening of the Public 
Library and Hastings Museum at old 
Worcester, in 1881, our minister at the 
Court of St. James, Hon. James Russell 
Lowell, performed the ceremony, and 
the librarian of the Free Public Library 
at Worcester, Massachusetts, sent a 
cable of greeting to the Mayor of old 
Worcester which was received as the pro- 
cession was entering the building. The 
English Mayor replied by cable. 

At the time of the celebration of the 
two hundredth anniversary of the nam- 
ing of Worcester, Massachusetts, held in 
1884, the Mayor of old Worcester, Hon. 
W. M. Williamson, was invited to attend 
the ceremonies, but owing to pressing 
duties at home he was unable to accept. 
Several residents of old Worcester, how- 
ever, have visited the Massachusetts city 
which bears its name. 




By E. B.Litce 



From a photograph 

RELICS FROM WORCESTER CATHEDRAL, 
WORCESTER, ENGLAND, 

presented to All Saints Church, Worcester, Massa- 
chusetts. The tablet records the event. 



214 



WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a photograph 



Kindness Mrs. ifary Fifveld KinK 



FRIAR STREET, WORCESTER, EXGLAXD 



Another Englishman who visited our Worcester was Henry Willis, and shortly 
after our city sent over numerous other books and pamphlets. Samuel S. 
Green also visited the English town as a representative of our Worcester, and was 
received with great courtesy. It should also be mentioned that Mayor Williamson 
of old Worcester visited our city, and after his return home sent over two beautiful 
albums of photographs of members of the Corporation of Worcester, England, 
taken during the Jubilee year, 1887, and other presents. 

English Worcester is a quaint and large cathedral city situated on both sides 
of the river Severn. It became important in early English history owing to the 
fact of its close proximity to Wales which made it the scene of much fighting in re- 
pelling invaders, and time after time the gallant little garrison of the town stemmed 
the attacks. In 1 1 13 the Welsh burned the town; in 1 140 it was taken by the Em- 
press Maud; in 1 150 Stephen burned the town, but failed in his attack on the Castle; 
again in 1189 and 1202 Worcester was burned. The city dates back to 585 a.d., 
having been built on the site of a Roman town. It was the Wigorna-ceastre of the 
Sa.xons, from which comes Worcester, meaning "War Castle," which is an appro- 
priate name, as Briton, Roman, Sa.xon, Dane and Norman have all fought there. 
Bishops St. Dunstan and St. Oswald both lived there, the latter becoming the patron 
saint of the city. St. Oswald dedicated the Cathedral, which was destroyed and 
rebuilt in the eleventh century by Wulfstan 11, who was an even greater saint. 
The present church in 12 18 was again partially rebuilt and dedicated with great 



WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



2IS 




brorn Barber s Iln^ltrrtio! t 



WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS (MAIN STREET) 
An old view. 



pomp, St. Wulfstan's body being enshrined in the altar. In this church there also 
is a tomb of King John, which is the oldest regal tomb in England; in 1797 it was 
opened to prove to archaeologists that the body was really that of the king. 

The Guildhall was built in 1721 and contains many suits of armour which were 
worn during the Battle of Worcester and which are similar to the ones sent to 
this country. 

Queen Elizabeth on her visit to Worcester in 1574 granted a charter to some 
clothiers, forming them into a corporation which still exists. Another item of 
interest is that Sir Henry Washington who was made Governor of Worcester in 
the absence of the regular Governor, while the latter was a prisoner during the 
siege of Worcester, was supposed to be connected with the ancestry of Gen. 
George Washington. Dean Swift was also a resident of the city. 

The present Mayor of the English Worcester, Hon. Arthur Carlton, during the 
war suggested that the citizens of his town "adopt" Worcester, Massachusetts, 
and invite all officers and men of the American Army hailing from Worcester, and 
who took part in the Great War, to visit the homes of the people of his city during 
any leave of absence. This idea of the English Mayor was enlarged upon and about 
three hundred towns in England "adopted" other towns in America, in most cases 
choosing those of the same name as their own. 

The latest expression of interest towards England was shown very recently by 
the Worcester Art Museum, which assumed responsibility for, and made possible, 
the tour of the British Government Exhibition of War Pictures in this country. 
The paintings were by Sir William Orpen, the well-known Irishman and other 
artists of the British Empire. 



2l6 



YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 



AT Yarmouth, England, also known as Great Yarmouth, Admiral Nelson 
/\ was given the freedom of the city, and the Town Clerk, as he administered 
^ JL the oath, said, "Hold up your right hand, my Lord," to which came the 
reply, "That is at Teneriffe," whereupon the people renewed their shouting in 
their jubilation over the recent successes of the British Navy. It is said that 
Yarmouth watched the Admiral's career with unusual interest, and it is certain 
that on this visit the people showed special enthusiasm, for they took the horses 
from his carriage and themselves drew him through the crowded streets of the 
town. This incident took place in 1800 after the battle of the Nile, and to the 
present time the Nelson room in the "Old Star Hotel" on the Quay is pointed out 
with interest to the visitor, as Nelson is said to have lodged there on another occa- 
sion when he landed at that seaport. The paneUing from the Nelson room was 
sold to an American some years ago and is believed now to be in Washington, D.C. 
This hotel was not used always as an inn, having been built in the last part of the 
sixteenth century by William Crowe as his private residence. 

Many jokes have been made about Yarmouth and its herrings, it having often 
been said that the town was "built upon herring bones." Another person in 
describing it said it was known for its herrings and excursionists, while still another 
writer in speaking of its herring fishery says, "It is the worthiest herring fishery in 
Europe, which draweth great concourse of people, which maketh the town much 
richer all the year following, but very unsavory for the time." Once a year Yar- 
mouth used to hold a herring fair. At one time this port registered six hundred 
and thirty-one sailing vessels, and claimed that its herring nets, added to those 
owned by the nearby town of Lowestoft, would stretch over two hundred miles. 
Certainly the Yarmouth bloater has made a world-wide reputation, although in 
the old days it was claimed that there was so much smuggling between Holland 
and the English coast that spirits were sometimes more profitable than fishing. 
On the town arms are three herrings with lions' heads, a svTnbol of the prosperity 
of the town and also a recognition of loyalty to the King. 

It was the beachmen's colony in Yarmouth that especially attracted the atten- 
tion of Dickens; these beachmen used to derive their living from salvaging boats 
that went ashore off the Yarmouth coast, and according to one of the historians 
of the town the customary prayer of the children of this little colony was, " Pray 
God send daddy a good ship ashore before morning." There are many people in 
Yarmouth who remember Dickens' "Mr. Peggotty's house," which was an old 
ship on the beach where he Uved. Dickens must have been very fond of the town, 
because he is said to have made the remark that if one had a grudge against any 
particular insurance company the best way to gratify it would be to buy a large 
annuity and then retire to Yarmouth to live. 



YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 



217 




From an old print: photograph by Alfred Yallop Kindness Ian Forhes-Roberlsan. Esq. 

THE QUAY, YARMOUTH, ENGLAND, 
as it looked in 1814, showing Custom-House and Town House. The Quay is over a mile in length. 



In the town there are many quaint houses, which have a very foreign appear- 
ance, resembhng very much the old buildings of Amsterdam and Rotterdam; 
David Copperfield himself thought they looked very Dutch, also saying that "if 
land had been a Httle more separated from the sea and the town and the tide had 
not been quite so mixed up, like toast and water, it would have been much nicer," 
but after he had smelt the fish, pitch, oakum and tallow, and had seen the sailors 
walking about, he said he felt he had done the place an injustice. Characteristic 
of the town are the numerous "Rows," or narrow alleys, one of which, called 
"Kitty Witches," is at one point only twenty-nine inches Avide. 

An interesting visitor to Yarmouth was Charles II who was received there in 
167 1, and who was presented with four herrings made of gold with ruby eyes. 
These few words describe his visit :^ 

" Yarmouth had first (O, more than happy port!) 
The honour to receive the King and Court, 
And entertain, season providing dishes, 
The King of England with the king of fishes!" 

It may be interesting also to mention that Governor Winthrop in the "Arbella" 
sailed from this port, while still another occasion of interest was a dinner along the 
Quay which was held in 1814. to celebrate the restoration of King Louis XVIII of 



2l8 



YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 




From an old print owned by a Boston collector 



I <■' "i- r V iM the collection of J. H. Seers, Essex, England 

THE QUAY, YARMOUTH, ENGLAND 



France. There was a curious superstition in the town that when an old maid died 
the steeple nodded. 

The old seaport contains one of the largest parish churches in England, Herbert 
de Lozenga, the first Norman Bishop of Norwich, being responsible for its erection 
in iioi. It is dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of fishermen. It is 
claimed that the people of Yarmouth have some Danish fighting blood in their 
veins, but however this may be, they have always proved great fishermen, sailors 
and fighters. At one time the town also pursued both the cod and whale fisheries. 

Yarmouth is situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the Yare River, from 
which, of course, it gets its name. Much of the land was marsh land and was 
eaten away by the sea, which caused an old salt once to remark quite truthfully 
that "it would take a heap of money to make us quite safe." Much of the land, 
however, has been reclaimed, and many cattle now graze on pastures where Roman 
galleys once sailed. 

When the Dutch lived in the town the friendship between them and the other 
residents of Yarmouth was so strong that the Yamiouthites inaugurated what they 
called a "Dutch" Sunday, which was the Sunday before September 21st, when the 
herring fishing began. This important event began with a ceremony called "Wetting 



YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 219 

the Nets," the nature of which is easily guessed. Of course, the Dutchmen arrived 
in time for this important occasion, and Nail, the Yarmouth historian, quotes the 
words of an eye-witness to their arrival: "With the afternoon's tide the Dutchmen 
began to enter the haven's mouth; and it was pleasing to see them proceed, one 
after the other, up the river to the town. ... Of these vessels about fifty came up 
this year. All of them arrived in the course of Friday evening; and at night I 
took a walk to view them by moonlight. The odd line of masts, e.xactly uniform ; 
the yards and furled sails disposed in a regular row, the crews sitting on deck with 
their pipes, calmly enjoying their repose, and conversing in a strange tongue, 
impressed the imagination in a forcible but pleasing manner; the quiet and order 
which reigned among so large a number was much to be admired. On Saturday 
the streets were sprinkled with parties of Dutchmen, easily distinguished by their 
round caps, short jackets and most capacious breeches. . . . On the ensuing Sun- 
day, called 'Dutch Sunday' all the country round, as far as Norwich, flocked to 
see the show. The Dutch did honour to their visitors by decorating their schuyts 
with flags in the gayest manner they were able. The whole length of the quay 
was crowded by people of all ranks, in their best apparel. ... It was a view 
equally striking and singular, and not to be matched in any part of the kingdom." 
"Dutch Sunday" is now an obsolete festival, and the Dutchmen no longer "wet 
theirnets" at Yarmouth; but they still come here and to Lowestoft in considerable 
numbers at Christmas for pickled herring, and then look very like their forerunners 
of a century and a half ago. They are still distinguished by their "round caps, short 
jackets, and most capacious breeches." The Great Yarmouth PubUc Library 
possesses many books, pamphlets, prints and photographs relating to our Yar- 
mouth and sent over by our town. 

Yarmouth on Cape Cod is one of the most beautiful towns on the Cape, and 
at one time included not only the present Yarmouth but also Dennis, which was 
made a separate township in 1794. The First Church of Yarmouth was founded 
in 1639, the early ministers in their order being Rev. Marmaduke Matthews, Rev. 
John Miller, Rev. Thomas Thornton and Rev. John Cotton, a grandson of John 
Cotton. It is particularly interesting to learn that one hundred and ninety-one 
Indians attended this little church during the pastorates of Miller and Thornton. 
The names of those to whom the first grant was made were Antony Thacher 
(usually spelled Anthony) , Thomas Howes and John Crow, who proceeded at once 
to organize the town, erecting a fort at Fort Hill near the old cemetery. ^\nthony 
Thacher was the oldest settler of the town and the most helpful man in the colony, 
his descendants being among the leading citizens of Yarmouth and Boston at the 
present day. The farm now owned by a member of the family, Hon. Thomas C. 
Thacher, belonged to his ancestor, and in his memory in 1905 he and others of his 
family placed a stone on the supposed site of the old house; the inscription reads 
as follows: — 




riwloiifjph by F. Frith i- Co.. J:n,..,„.l K iiulnes! Ijn Farbei-K- 

GKKV IklARS ROW, VARMUUTH, ENGLAND 
These very narrow " Rows," or alleys, are characteristic of the town. 



YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 221 

Near this Site Lived and Was Buried 

Antony Thacher 

He came to America in 1635 

from Somersetsliire England. 

Shipwrecked on Thacher's Island 1635. 

Settled in Yarmouth 1639. 

Three years later the Thacher family gave to the town a road called the Thacher 

Shore Road, built over what is supposed to be the location of the old Colonial 

road laid out by the early settlers of Yarmouth. Much of it runs through the 

Anthony Thacher farm. There is an inscription on a tablet placed at its eastern 

end, worded as follows: — 

Thacher Shore Road 

Given to the Town of Yarmouth 

in memory of 

Henry C. Thacher 

by his wife and children 

1908 

Thomas Howes later went to North Dennis, where a memorial shaft was set up 
in 1834 to his memory in the old Howes burial ground and, as it was one of the 
earliest monuments to the early settlers erected in this country, we give the 
inscription : — 

Thus from the central part of Britton's isle they came 

And on Columbia's soil did propigate a name 

We their descendants the Patriarch own 

And to the first Howes do dedicate this stone. 
This monument was erected in 1834, etc. 

Richard Sears, usually referred to as "The Pilgrim," was another important man in 
the history of the Cape and particularly at Yarmouth and Chatham, where in the 
cemeteries of these towns monuments have been set up to the memory of himself 
and his descendants. He married Dorothy Thacher, the daughter of Anthony, 
and is said to have attended the Yarmouth church for twenty-three years. This 
Richard Sears, the founder of the American line, sought refuge in Leyden and in 
1630 sailed for the New World, landing at Plymouth in May of the year 1630. In 
1643 he removed to Yarmouth. The monument at Yarmouth bears the follow- 
ing inscription: — 

Sacred to the memory of 

Richard Sears, 

Son of John Bourchier Sears and 

Marie L. Van Egmont, 

In lineal descent from 

Richard Sears of Colchester 

And Aim Bourchier Knyvet, 

England. 

He landed at Plymouth in 1630. 

Married Dorothy Thacher, 

And died in Yarmouth in 

1676. 



YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 



223 



There are also tablets on this monu- 
ment to the memory of his three sons, 
Knyvet, Paul and Sylas. The monu- 
ment in the Chatham cemetery, which 
is simDar in form to the one in Yar- 
mouth, bears inscriptions to the mem- 
ory of Daniel Sears, a grandson of 
Richard Sears, and other descendants 
of "The Pilgrim." 

The original family name in Eng- 
land was Scearstan, the more modern 
spelHng having been Sarre, Syer, Sayer, 
Saers, Sayers and Sears ton. There is 
a village on the Isle of Alney, in the 
county of Gloucester, named Scearstan. 
The family of Sayers or Sears is to be 
found in the vicinity of Colchester in 
the county of Essex, this branch being 
the direct descendants of Adam Sare, 
whose great-grandson served in Parlia- 
ment for the town and port of Sand- 
wich. Members of this family appear 
frequently on the early records of Col- 
chester, one John Sayer having held 
the ofEce of Alderman. There is a 
monument and many tablets to the 
Sears family in the parish church of St. 
Peter in Colchester, England. On the 
two hundred and fiftieth anniversary 





From a phtt'^^ra pi: 



. ■ ...■ Wtllard T. 
:>t-drs ami H<ins t-.tierfmrd, Esq. 

IN 



MONUMENT TO RICHARD SEARS 
YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 

He was the founder of the American line of Sears, 
coming to Massachusetts in 1630. Some of his de- 
scendants settled at Chatham, among them being 
his grandson, Daniel Sears, over whose gra\e a mon- 
ument similar to the one in Yarmouth has been 
erected. The name of Sears is closely associated 
with the early history of Cape Cod. Richard 
Sears married Dorothy, daughter of Antony 
Thacher of Yarmouth, Massachusetts, one of the 
first three grantees of land in that town. 



of the founding of the Massachusetts 
town, which was held in 1889, one of the descendants of Richard Sears, Philip 
Howes Sears, was the orator of the day. One of the inscriptions over the lunch 
tent on this occasion was "Mattacheese 1639 — Yarmouth 1889," the former word 
being the Indian name of the town. Another inscription on the tent was the 
motto, "We will our celebration keep," which were the words of King Henry IV. 
It is especially interesting to mention that our Yarmouth was as much interested 
in whaling as its forefathers in the old town in Britain, and has also furnished 
many shipmasters and sailors. It is also interesting to record that Yarmouth, 
Barnstable and Sandwich were all founded on the same day, as one orator at the 
Yarmouth celebration pointed out, and which fact, he said, may have prevented 
his making two more speeches. The following lines written by Mrs. Mary M. 



2 24 YARMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 

Bray at the time of this celebration tell us of those names so well known in this 
quaint Cape Cod town: — 

' ' We search the records once again and read 
The names of those who pioneered the way, 
Hallclt and Matthews, Thacher, Howes and Crow, 
Simpkins and Ryder, Taylor, Sears and Gray." 

Other lines written for the occasion we also quote: — 

"We lift the Pilgrims' war cry still 
For freedom and for God, 
And wear as proudest title yet 
The sons of old Cape Cod." 



NAMES 

From Somerset and Devon, 

From York and Worcestershire, 

The younger sons came sailing 
With hearts of steel and fire. 

From leafy lane and valley. 

Fair glebe and ancient wood, 
The counties of old England 

Poured forth their warmest blood. 

Out of the grey-walled cities. 

Away from the castled towns. 
Corners of thatch and roses. 

Heathery combes and downs, 

With neither crown nor penny. 

But an iron will they came; 
Heirs of an old tradition 

And a good old English name. 

A stark great silence met them 

On a nameless, savage shore ; 
But they called the wild, — "New England," 

For the sake of the blood they bore. 

"Plymouth, Exeter, Bristol, 

Boston, Windsor, Wells." 
Beloved names of England 

Rang in their hearts like bells. 



NAMES 225 

They named their rocky farmlands, 

Their hamlets by the sea, 
For the mother-towns that bred them. 

In racial loyalty. 

"Cambridge, Hartford, Gloucester, 

Hampton, Norwich, Stowe." 
The younger sons looked backward 

And sealed their sonship so. 

The old blood thrills in answer. 

As centuries go by. 
To names that meant a challenge, 

A signal, or a sigh. 

Now over friendly oceans 

The old towns, each to each. 
Call with the kinship in a name; 

One race, one truth, one speech. 

This poem, "Names," is used by permission of Miss Abbie Farwell Brown, from 
her new volume of verses, "Heart of New England." 



END OF PART I 



Edited, designed and printed by direction 0/ 

fVatlon Advertising cr Printing Co. 

Boston, Mass. 

U. S. A. 



TOWNS of NEW ENGLAND 

AND 

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IRELAND and SCOTLAND 

^TATijr II ^ 



Connecting Links between Cities and Towns 

of New England and Those of the Same 

Name in England, Ireland and Scotland 

Containing Narratives, Descriptions, 

and Many Views, some done 

from Old Prints 




Also much Matter pertaining to 
tEf)e Jf ounber£{ anb Settlers of i^eto Cnglanb 

and to their Memorials on both sides of the Atlantic 



Written by Allan Forbes and 
Printed to Commemorate The Tercentenary of 

THE LANDING of the PILGRIMS 

PUBLISHED BY 

^, 3^. Putnam's! ^onsi 

NP:W YORK AND LONDON 
MCMXXI 



This Work 

was planned and prepared 

by direction and under the auspices of 

The State Street Trust Company 

Boston, Massachusetts 

U.S.A. 



It was but natural that the Lion 
and the Unicorn should have been used 
on the Old State House for decorative pur- 
poses when the building was first erected before 
the Declaration of Independence. At the time that 
the name of King Street was changed to State Street, 
the original figures were destroyed, being replaced, however, 
when the building was restored in 1S82. Still again there was 
a change due to the fact that the old wooden figures began to decay, 
necessitating the substitution, soon after 1900, of the present ones, which 
are made of copper. The wooden Lion and Unicorn now beautify a lawn in 
Chestnut Hill, on the outskirts of Boston. The Lion and the Unicorn are called 
in heraldic terms "supporters," for the reason that they are the figures placed on either 
side of a coat of arms shield, suggesting their support of it. They seem to have been origi- 
nally introduced by the engravers of seals purely from an artistic point of view to fill up the 
space between the shield of arms and the circle in which it is usually set. but they have nothing 
to do with the coat of arms itself. The Unicorn is a favorite "supporter" in Scottish heraldry, 
having first appeared about the year 1480. In 1505 it is recorded that the Scottish 
Arms were supported by two Unicorns. As late as the year 1766 the Unicom was 
still placed on the right, but after the LTnion it became the left supporter, the 
Lion being the right supporter. The Unicorn is, of course, a fabulous ani- 
mal. The earliest heraldic lion known is the rampant lion of Flanders, 
which appeared in the seal of Richard I. These two present sup- 
porters of the shield of the United Kingdom were introduced 
by King James I of England and VI of Scotland on his 
accession to the throne of England in 1603 and have 
remained unchanged to this day. Before this date, 
howe\er, supporters were constantl\- being 
changed. A picture of the Old State 
House, upon which appear the Lion 
and the Unicorn, is on page 39. 



CopYRioBT, 1021 

BY THE 

STATE STREET TRUST COMPANY 

Boston, Mass. 

U. S. A. 

Printed in the United Slates of America 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



PAGE 

Boston, Massachusetts 17 

Athol, Massachusetts 40 

Attleboro, Massachusetts 44 

Biddeford, Maine So 

Braintree, Massachusetts 52 

Bridgewater, Massachusetts 5S 

Brighton, Massachusetts 59 

Coventry, Connecticut S9 

Dover, Massachusetts 65 

Exeter, New Hampshire 69 

Framingham, Massachusetts 72 

Greenwich, Connecticut 77 

Haverhill, Massachusetts 80 

Hull, Massachusetts 87 

Ipswich, Massachusetts 89 

Lancaster, Massachusetts 97 

Lincoln, Massachusetts 100 

Londonderry, New Hampshire 102 

Lynn, Massachusetts 106 

Maiden, Massachusetts 115 

Manchester, New Hampshire 118 

Medford, Massachusetts 123 

Newbury, Massachusetts 125 

Newcastle, New Hampshire 13S 

New London, Connecticut 138 

Oxford, Massachusetts 148 

Reading, Massachusetts 1S2 

Rowley, Massachusetts iSS 

Salisbury, Massachusetts 162 

Sherbom, Massachusetts 164 

Springfield, Massachusetts 170 

Stratford, Connecticut 176 

Sudbury, Massachusetts 183 

Taunton, Massachusetts 185 

Topsfield, Massachusetts 192 

Waltham, Massachusetts i94 

Warwick, Massachusetts and Rhode Island 197 

Watertown, Massachusetts 203 

Weymouth, Massachusetts 205 

Winchester, Massachusetts 209 

Windsor, Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts and Connecticut 212 

Woburn, Massachusetts 214 

York, Maine 218 



LIST OF ILLUSTIL\TIONS 



PAGE 

May Sheep Fair, Boston, Lincolnshire, England Frontispiece 

Map of England showing English Towns mentioned in Part I and in Part II 

Opposite Foreword 

St. Botolph's Church, Boston, England i6 

Small Box sent in igig to Hon. Andrew J. Peters, Mayor of Boston, Xew England, by 

his Worshipful A. Cooke Yarborough, Mayor of Old Boston, England i8 

Old Seals of Boston, England 19 

Message from the Mayor of Boston, England, to the Mayor of Boston, Massachtisetts 20 

Section of Railing from the Guildhall, Boston, England 22 

Memorial to John Cotton in the First Church, Boston, Massachusetts 23 

Cotton Chapel (formerly caUed Founders Chapel) in St. Botolph's Church, Boston, 

England 25 

Boston, Lincolnshire, England 26 

Tracery Window from St. Botolph's in the cloister of Trinity Church, Boston, Massa- 
chusetts 28 

Memorial Tablet in Cotton Chapel, St. Botolph's Church, England 29 

Loving Cup, formerly the property of the Corporation of Boston, England 30 

Coat of Arms of Boston, England 31 

Tablet in Guildhall, Boston, England 32 

The Guildhall, Boston, England 33 

The Pulpit in St. Botolph's Church, Boston, England 34 

Figure of St. Botolph on St. Botolph's Church, Boston, England 35 

Boston, England, from the Tower of St. Botolph's Church 36 

Boston, England 36 

Statue of Anne Hutchinson in the State House, Boston, Massachusetts 37 

Tablet on Boston Common recording its Purchase from William Blackslone, First Settler 

in Boston, Massachusetts 38 

The Old State House, Boston, Massachusetts 39 

High School Building, Alhol, Massachusetts 41 

Blair Castle, Blair Atholl, Perthshire, Scotland 42 

William Blackslone Memorial in Lonsdale, Rhode Island 45 

St. Mary's Church, Attleborough, England 46 

Second Congregational Church, Attleboro, Massachusetts 48 

Stone in Second Congregational Church, Attleboro, Massachusetts 49 

Memorial Tablet at Winter Harbour, now Biddeford Pool, Maine 51 

Hideford, England 52 

Tablet placed by the Quincy Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution, in 

Quincy, Massachusetts 53 

Braintrce, Essex, England 54 

Hridgewater, Kngland 56 

Brighton, England 58 

A Recent View of Brighton, England 58 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Coventry, England 6i 

The Davenport House, Coventry, England 62 

Effigy of Peeping Tom, King's Head Hotel, Coventry, England 63 

Dover, England 66 

Embarkation of Henry VTII at Dover in 1520 67 

Dover Castle, Dover, England 68 

Replica of the Coat of Arms of Exeter, England, in the Administration Building of 

Phillips-Exeter Academy, Exeter, New Hampshire 6g 

Administration Building of Phillips-Exeter Academy, Exeter, New Hampshire .... 70 

Exeter Cathedral, Exeter, England 70 

The Exe Bridge, Exeter, England 71 

Framlingham Church, Framlingham, England 73 

Framlingham Castle, Suffolk, England 75 

Greenwich Hospital, Greenwich, London, England, now the Royal Naval College ... 78 

Address from Haverhill, England, to Haverhill, Massachusetts 81 

Shield sent by Haverhill, Massachusetts, to Haverhill, England, in 1890 82 

Memorial Tablet in the Parish Church, HaverhiU, England 83 

Parish Church, Haverhill, England 85 

Withersfield Road, Haverhill, England 86 

Hull, England 88 

Clock presented to the First Church of Ipswich, Massachusetts 90 

St. Matthew's Gate, Ipswich, Suffolk, England 91 

Great White Horse Hotel, Ipswich, England 92 

The Ancient House, Ipswich, England 94 

Tablet on the South Green, Ipswich, Massachusetts 96 

South View of the Gateway Tower of Lancaster Castle, Lancaster, England 98 

Prescott Tablet in Old Burying-ficld, Lancaster, Massachusetts 99 

Lincoln, England, from the River Witham loi 

A View on Castle HQl, Lincoln, England 102 

An Irish Jaunting Car 103 

Londonderry, Ireland 104 

Shaft over the Grave of Rev. Samuel Whiting, the First Minister of Lynn, Massachu- 
setts, in West Lynn Cemeter>', Lynn, Massachusetts 107 

St. Margaret's Church, Lynn Regis, England 108 

St. Stephen's Church, Lynn, Massachusetts loq 

Stone sent by St. ^Margaret's Church, King's Lynn no 

Lynn Regis. Norfolk, England 112 

Maldon, Essex, England 116 

.\11 Saints Church, Maldon, Essex, England 117 

City Hall, Manchester, England 119 

Old Derryfield Meeting House 120 

Manchester, England 121 

Meaford, Staffordshire, England 124 

All Saints Church, West Newbury, Massachusetts 128 

St, Nicholas Church, Newbury, England 129 

Stone marking Landing Place of the First Settlers, 1635, on Parker River. Newbury, 

Massachusetts 130 

Ship Monument placed on the Oldtown Lower Green in Newbury, Massachusetts . . 131 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Newburyport, Massachusetts, in 1847, from Salisbury 132 

Newbury Street, Newbury, England 133 

Jack of Newbury's House, Newbury, England 134 

A Street in Newcastle, New Hampshire 136 

Newcastle, New Hampshire 137 

Old Town Grist Mill, New London, Connecticut 140 

Abraham Lincoln 141 

Statue of John Winthrop, the Younger, in New London, Connecticut 142 

A Rare Old View of the Tower of London and the Mint 144 

A Rare Old View of the House of Lords and Commons, London 146 

Huguenot Monument, Oxford, Massachusetts 149 

Oxford, England, showing the Cathedral and Radcliff Library 150 

Reading Abbey, Reading, England 153 

St. Giles's Church, Reading. England 154 

Rowley Church, Rowley, England 156 

Monument in the Old Cemetery in Rowley, Massachusetts 157 

Communion Cups given by Rev. Ezekiel Rogers and Others in Rowley Church, Rowley, 

Massachusetts 159 

Tablet in Rowley, Massachusetts 160 

Rowley, Yorkshire, England 161 

Salisburj', England 163 

Long Street and Conduit, Sherborne, England 167 

Sherborne, England, and Sherborn, Massachusetts 168 

Sherborne Castle, Sherborne, England 169 

Pynchon Family Memorial in the Peabody Cemetery, Springfield, Massachusetts ... 170 

All Saints Church, Springfield, Essex County, England 171 

All Saints Church, Springfield, Massachusetts 172 

The Pynchon Tablet in Writtle, England 173 

Interior of the Church in Wraysbury, England 173 

Old View of Court Square, Springfield, Massachusetts 174 

Shakespeare Fountain, Stratford-on-Avon, England 177 

Shakespeare's Birthplace, Stratford-on-Avon, England 178 

Stratford Library, Stratford, Connecticut 179 

Shakespeare Window in the Stratford Librar>', Stratford, Connecticut 180 

Gainsborough's Birthplace in Sudbury, England 184 

Judge Edmund H. Bennett, First Mayor of Taunton, Massachusetts, on a visit to Dun- 

ster Castle, near Taunton, Somersetshire, England 1S6 

Monument in Mt. Pleasant Cemetery, Taunton, Massachusetts 187 

Old View of Taunton, England 188 

Message sent by Taunton, Massachusetts, to Taunton, England, in 1889 189 

Taunton Castle, Taunton, England 191 

Toppesfield, England 192 

St. Margaret's Church, Toppesfield, England 193 

Waltham Abbey, Waltham, England 196 

Warwick Castle, Warwickshire, England 198 

The Harvard Surgical LTnit. at Warwick Castle, Warwickshire, England 199 

Leicester Hospital, Warwick, England 201 

Church of St. John the Baptist, Halifax, Yorkshire, England 202 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Nether Saltonstall, near Halifax, England 205 

The Old Chapel. Over Saltonstall, near Halifax, England 204 

Unveiling of the John Endicott and Richard Clark Memorial in Weymouth, England, 

in 1914 206 

Bronze Medallion placed on the Memorial in Weymouth, England 207 

Weymouth Bay, Weymouth, England 2C38 

Temporary Memorial placed in Winchester Cathedral, Winchester, England 210 

Winchester Cathedral, Winchester, England 211 

House in Winchester, England, where Jane Austen lived and died 212 

Windsor Castle 213 

Wobum Abbey, Woburn, England 215 

Town Hall and George Street, Woburn, England 216 

York, England 219 

York Cathedral, York, England 220 

The Shambles, York, England 221 

City Walls, York, England 222 

St. Budeaux Church, near Plymouth, England, in which is the Memorial to Sir Ferdi- 

nando Gorges 222 

Church at Long Ashton, England, in which Sir Ferdinando Gorges was buried 224 

Crossed Swords of Colonel \A'illiam Prescott and Captain John Linzee 225 




ENGLAND, 

showing by capital letters and dots within the circles, location of the English towns mentioned in Part I 

and in Part II. 



FOREWORD 

THIS book, as in the case of Part I, has been compiled by the State Street 
Trust Company with the object in view of placing before the people of New 
England, in commemoration of the Tercentenary of the Landing of the 
Pilgrims, information concerning those cities and towns in New England which 
have been named for places in England, Ireland and Scotland. The work en- 
deavors to relate the experiences of the early settlers, to make clear the origin of 
the names of the new communities and to record the connecting links between 
places in the old country and their New England namesakes. The sketches of the 
early history of these cities and towns in New England include pictures and in- 
scriptions of many tablets and memorials on both sides of the Atlantic which con- 
nect places of the same name in New England and Great Britain, together with 
many photographs and prints of interest. 

The Trust Company has endeavored to include in this volume the most im- 
portant cides and towns in New England which were named after those in England, 
Ireland and Scotland and which were not included in Part I. The places described 
last year were Plymouth and Southampton, Andover, Barnstable, Bath, Belfast, 
Beverly, Bristol, Cambridge, Chatham, Chelmsford, Dartmouth, New Bedford 
and Bedford, Dedham, Dorchester, Dublin, Falmouth, Gloucester, Groton, Hart- 
ford, Harwich, Hingham, Melrose, Northampton, Norwich, Portsmouth and Rye, 
Sandwich, Wareham, Woodstock, Worcester and Yarmouth. 

There are a few towns in the New England States which, for lack of space, it 
has been necessary to omit from both Part I and Part II, but we believe that we 
have described in the two volumes most of the important places in New England 
which have connections with the places in the British Isles whence they derived 
their names. 

We have thought it fitting to begin Part II with Boston, the other towns follow- 
ing alphabetically. 

The issuance of this book, which is the seventeenth annual publication of the 
Company presenting a collection of matters pertaining to the history of New 
England, not easily obtainable in books of reference now extant, is several months 



lo FOREWORD 

ahead of the usual time in order that it may appear during the season when there 
will be many pilgrimages from all parts of the world to the places in New England 
associated with the early history of the Pilgrims. 

We repeat here that the idea was suggested to us by Walter R. Whiting, Esq., 
who showed us several pamphlets written by Rev. Louis C. Cornish showing the 
connecting links between Hingham, Massachusetts, and Hingham, England. 

The Company is very grateful for the assistance given by the Mayors of 
the towns in the British Isles, heads of Museums and of Historical Societies who 
contributed much valuable material but all of whose names, unfortunately, we do 
not have. 

The Trust Company wishes to give credit again to Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq., 
of Farnham, Surrey, England, who gave such valuable assistance concerning the 
places in Great Britain and who obtained most of the pictures of points of interest 
in those towns, for without such help as his these two volumes could not have been 
compiled. 

The Trust Company, too, is indebted to the late Oscar Fay Adams, who com- 
piled a history of many towns in Great Britain but who unfortunately died before 
it could be published. This material was presented to us through the kindness of 
Miss Abbie Farwell Brown and Miss M. B. Lazenby. His manuscript was of great 
help in checking the information concerning these towns across the water and it is 
fitting that his work and his name should share in the preparation of these two 
publications. 

Thanks are due to Mayors of our cities. Selectmen of towns, officials of Libraries 
and Historical Societies and other residents of places in New England who have 
forwarded to the Trust Company for examination letters, records (in many cases 
original documents) and photographs; to these persons the Trust Company and 
the readers of this book are especially indebted. It has been our endeavor to 
remember all who have assisted us, and we have included these in a list below. 
There may be others, however, who, through the great volume of correspondence, 
may have been overlooked, and to these persons the Trust Company offers both its 
apologies and its thanks. 

Much credit is due likewise to Perry Walton, Esq., of the Walton Advertising 
and Printing Company, who has assisted in compiling and arranging all our publica- 
tions for the past si.xteen years, and to his efficient staff wliich includes Josephine 
Sullivan, Hans Eberhard, Mary N. Cornell, Corneha Randall, Ruth P. Wedge 
and William Bond Wheelwright. Thanks are also due for the assistance given 
by Mrs. Louise Ames Norman. 

At the suggestion of a number of readers of Part I of this commemorative 
series, the author of both books has reluctantly subscribed his name at the end of 
this Foreword and wishes at the same time to add that he was assisted in their 
preparation by Ashton L. Carr, Vice President of the Trust Company, by Ralph 



FOREWORD 



II 



M. Eastman, Assistant to the President, by Miss Edith E. Olson of the Trust 
Company stafif and by Miss Florence H. Cabot, now Mrs. Herman H. Fardelman. 

The Trust Company thanks the people of New England for the appreciation 
with which Part I was received and trusts this one, its successor, will prove equally 
interesting. Although these books were prepared to commemorate the Tercen- 
tenary of the landing of the Pilgrims, and are of special interest to Americans, 
they also appeal to the peoples of the British Empire. This has been shown by 
the demand for Part I from all parts of the EngUsh-speaking world, and it is hoped 
that these books will cement a closer friendship between the two nations. 

We would like again to thank his E.xcellency, Governor Calvin Coolidge, now 
Vice President of the United States, and his former Secretary, Henry F. Long, Esq., 
and also the many other persons who helped us on last year's book and who were 
thanked in the Foreword of Part I. 

In the preparation of this year's volume we are indebted especially to Hon. 
Andrew J. Peters, Mayor of Boston, and his Secretary, E. V. B. Parke, Esq., who 
helped us in regard to Boston. We also wish to thank Rt. Rev. Bishop Lawrence 
for valuable help given us in connection with interchanges between churches in the 
two countries; Rev. WilUam S. Key, formerly of Boston, England; Charles F. 
Belden, Esq., Otto Fleischner, Esq., and other officials and clerks of the Boston 
Public Library, for untiring efforts in procuring information of value for this book; 
also Mrs. Mary Fifield King, Walter K. Watkins, Esq. and George Francis Dow, 
Esq., for a number of pictures of towns in Great Britain. 

The list of those who helped us on different cities and towns is appended. 

Boston: Thomas Tileston Baldwin, Abbie Farwell Brown, Rev. Howard N. Brown, 
George W. Coleman, Frederic H. Curtiss, Rev. William H. Dewart, Henry H. Edes, Rev. 
Prescott Evarts, P. K. Foley, J. Pennington Gardiner, Edward M. Hartwell, Rev. W. S. 
Key, Fred H. Kimball, Rt. Rev. William Lawrence, Rev. Alexander Mann, Robert Treat 
Paine, Rev. Charles E. Park, Charles F. Read, Henry B. Sawyer, Ralph A. Stewart, 
Charles H. Taylor, Jr., Julius H. Tuttle, Rev. William Harman van Allen. 

Athol: Duke of Atholl (Blair AthoU, Scotland), William G. Lord, Pearl L. Mason, 
William B. McSkimmon, F. E. Wing. Attleboro: Mrs. Walter M. Kendall, Walter O. 
Lochner, Rev. Charles H. Pennoyer, Mrs. Lucinda F. Spofford, Mrs. Joseph L. Sweet. 

Biddeford: Walter H. Bradley, Frank C. Deering, Rev. George A. Gordon, Emma 
Hatch, E. L. Alorrill, Burton H. Winslow. Braintree: Marion S. Arnold, Mrs. Caroline 
A. Bill, Charles H. Taylor, Jr. Bridgewater: Lucia L. Christian, Joshua E. Crane. 

Coventry: William L. Higgins, Mrs. W. R. Thurber. 

Dover: Clara P. Atkinson, Arthur G. Fuller, C. H. Garland, Corwin McDowell, 
Augustin H. Parker, Frank Smith. 

Exeter: Edmund S. Boyer, Miss Carrie W. Bvington, Mmnie T. Knight, Harry V. 
Lawrence, Winifred L. MacKay, Dr. Edward O. Otis. 

Framingh.4M: Nathaniel I. Bowditch, Peter N. Everett, John M. Merriam. 



12 FOREWORD 

Greenwich: H. Ashton Crosby, Erwin Edwards, Spencer P. Mead, Major Evelyn 
Wrench, Dr. James F. Muirhead. 

Haverhill: Paul E. Gray, Daniel M. Gurteen (Haverhill, England), John G. Moulton, 
Leonard W. Smith, C. S. Whittier. Hull: John H. Grout (.American Consul, Hull, 
England), Charles H. Pearson, T. Sheppard (Hull, England). 

Ipswich: Francis R. Appleton, Joseph I. Horton, Herbert W. Mason, Mrs. Augustus 
N. Rantoul, Augustus N. Rantoul, the late T. Franklin Waters. 

Lancaster: Virginia M. Keyes, Mrs. Nathaniel Thayer. Lincoln: Mrs. John P. 
Bowditch, John P. Bowditch, Moorfield Storey, George G. Tarbell. Londonderry: 
A. E. Cudworth, Norreys Jephson O'Conor. Lynn: John Albree, Luther Atwood, Major 
Coxon (Lynn Regis, England), Hon. Walter H. Creamer, R. M. De Cormis, Francis 
Gray, Mrs. G. G. Hammond, Joseph F. Hannan, B. N. Johnson, Rev. W. Appleton 
Lawrence, Waller R. Whiting. 

Malden: Hon. Charles M. Blodgett, A. L. Clarke (Maldon, England), Dr. Godfrey 
Ryder, F. A. Shove, W. G. A. Turner. Manchester, New Hampshire: E. Howard 
George, Alfred S. Jewett, H. A. McElwain, A. W. Phinney, C. W. Sutton (Manchester, 
England), Miss F. Mabel Winchell. IMedford: N. Penrose Hallowell, Moses W. Mann. 

Newbury: Miss Susan Ilsley Adams, Harriette E. Jones, Rev. Herljert Edwin Lom- 
bard, Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse, Mrs. F. S. Moseley, J. B. Shearer, Rev. Arthur H. Wright. 
Newcastle: Wallace Hackett, William D. Tiurner. New London: M. M. Baker, Miss 
EUzabeth Gorton, P. Le Roy Harwood, Dr. J. F. Muirhead, Ernest E. Rogers, Major 
Evelyn Wrench. 

Oxford: Everett Carleton, William Arthur Dupee, Mrs. Clara A. Fuller, Dr. Elliott 
P. Joslin, Mrs. William B. Scofield, Harry Worcester Smith, Benjamin H. Stone, 
Stead W. Rodgers. 

Reading: The late Solon Bancroft, Rev. J. J. Cogan, Miss Emma Florence Eaton, 
Charles A. Loring, Rev. Austin Rice, Horace G. Wadlin. Rowley: Charles F. Allen, 
Amos E. Jewett. 

Salisbury: Edmund Chase Eastman. Sherborn: Francis Bardwell, Henry G. 
Vaughan. Springfield: W. F. Adams, G. C. Baldwin, Frank H. Page. Str.\tford: 
Edward Fo.x, Esq., J. P. (Mayor of Stratford-on-Avon, England), Miss Frances B. Russell. 
Sudbury: Mrs. John P. Bowditch, John P. Bowditch, Rev. Paul Revere Frothingham, 
Frank F. Gerry, J. V. Lee, John M. Merriam. 

Taunton: The late Edith M. Hodgman, Frank Walcott Hutt, Edward Lovering, 
Edward H. Temple, Edwin A. Tetlow. Topsfield: George Francis Dow, T. W. Pierce. 

Waltham: Thomas H. Armstrong, C. F. French, E. L. Sanderson, Charles Stone, 
John H. Storer, Rev. Francis E. Webster. Warwick: Herbert O. Brigham, Howard M. 
Chapin, H. R. Curtis, Mrs. H. W. Marsh, H. W. Marsh (Warwick, England), Thomas 
S. Longridge, Herbert H. White. Watertown: R. M. Saltonstall. Weymouth: Judge 
Louis A. Cook, E. R. Hastings, The Times, London. Winchester: George H. Eustis, 
Sinclair Kennedy, Librarian at Guildhall Library, London, Henry G. Lord, Bowen Tufts, 
Major Evelyn Wrench. Windsor: Julia M. Clapp, Gilbert F. Davis, G. G. Wilder. 
Woburn: Judge Edward F. Johnson. 

York: Mrs. J. P. Bowditch, A. M. Bragdon, Henry S. Burrage, D.D. (Historian of 



FOREWORD 13 

Maine), Alfred Johnson, Edward C. Moody, James Brown Thornton, M.D., Sophia 
Turner. 

General: Rodolphe L. Agassiz, Hon. Thomas W. Bicknell, Mrs. Charles S. Bird, 
Grace Blanchard, Mrs. Alice E. Boynton, F. B. Brightman, Thomas G. Brown, Howard 
M. Buck, Charles H. Butler, Mrs. George Leonard Chaney, Howard M. Chapin, George 
K. Clarke, Luther Conant, Rev. Louis C. Cornish, Mrs. George H. Davis, Mrs. Henry 
Dorrance, Richard H. Evans, Fred T. Field, Redington Fiske, George S. Godard, Mrs. 
Albert L. HaU, Henry M. Hutchings, Mrs. Minnie T. Knight, Miss Mabel E. Knowlton, 
Willard P. Lewis, C. D. Lyons & Company, E. A. Marsh, Louis L. Robinson, Samuel 
Russell, Robert B. Smith, Louis E. Stoddard, Thomas Sutton, J. B. Taylor, Lucien Thomp- 
son, Hon. John J. Treat, Walter K. Watkins, George E. Watters, Harold E. Watters, 
Miss Florence E. Wheeler, Elbert W. Whitney, Robert Whittaker, Miss Elizabeth 
Wilkinson. 

In closing this Foreword we would like to express our belief that the spirit of our 
forefathers so well referred to in a poem by John Pierpont almost one hundred years 
ago in 1824, at the Plj-mouth celebration, will always endure in America. 

"The Pilgrim Fathers, — where are they? 

The waves that brought them o'er 
Still roll in the bay, and throw their spray, 

As they break along the shore; 
Still roll in the bay, as they rolled that day 

When the Mayflower moored below, 
When the sea around was black with storms, 

And white the shore with snow. 

The mists that wrapped the PUgrim's sleep 

Still brood upon the tide; 
And the rocks yet keep their watch by the deep, 

To stay its waves of pride. 
But the snow-white sail that he gave to the gale, 

WTien the heavens looked dark, is gone; 
As an angel's wing, through an opening cloud. 

Is seen, and then withdrawn. 

The Pilgrim exile, — sainted name! 

The hill whose icy brow 
Rejoiced, when he came, in the morning's flame, 

In the morning's flame burns now; 
And the moon's cold light, as it lay that night 

On the hill-side and the sea. 
Still lies where he laid his houseless head; 

But the Pilgrim, — where is he? 

The Pilgrim Fathers are at rest: 

When Summer is throned on high, 
And the world's warm breast is in verdure dressed. 

Go, stand on the hill where they lie. 



14 FOREWORD 

The earliest ray of the golden day 

On that hallowed spot is cast; 
And the evening sun as he leaves the world, 

Looks kindly on that spot last. 

The Pilgrim spirit has not fled: 

It walks in noon's broad light; 
And it watches the bed of the glorious dead, 

With the holy stars, by night. 
It watches the bed of the brave who have bled, 

And shall guard this ice-bound shore 
Till the waves of the bay, where the IVIaj'flower lay, 

Shall foam and freeze no more." 

(Tke fourth verse of this ode was printed on page 29 of Part I.) 

This poem was also on the program of the Tercentennial Celebration held at 
Plymouth, ISIassachusetts, on December 21, 1920. On this occasion Governor 
Calvin Coolidge of Massachusetts sat in the chair brought over by Go\ernor Brad- 
ford, which is now owned by William R. Hedge, Henry R. Hedge and their sister, 
direct descendants of this early Governor. 

ALLAN FORBES, 
President, State Street Trust Company. 
Boston, 1921. 







From an engraving in the St. Botolpk Club, Boston, Massachusetts Kmd'uss oj the Cvirrnors of the St. Botolph Club 

ST. BOTOLPH'S CHURCH, BOSTON, ENGLAND 

There is also an etching of this church in the St. Botolph Club, presented in 1903 by William Hanvood 

of Boston, England. 



TOWNS of NEW ENGLAND 



and 



Old England, Ireland and Scotland 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

"St. Botolph's Town! Hither across the plains 
And fens of Lincolnshire, in garb austere, 
There came a Saxon monli, and founded here 
A Priory, pillaged by marauding Danes, 
So that thereof no vestige now remains; 

Only a name, that, spoken loud and clear, 

And echoed in another hemisphere, 

Survives the sculptured walls and painted panes. 

St. Botolph's Town! Far over leagues of land 

And leagues of sea looks forth its noble tower, 

And far around the chiming bells are heard; 
So may that sacred name forever stand 

A landmark, and a symbol of the power 

That lies concentred in a single word." 

fT. BOTOLPH'S TOWN, so weU described by Longfellow 
in these well-known lines, and our Boston have had many 
interchanges, one of the most interesting being the collec- 
tion of sLx seals of old Boston which now hangs in the 
Committee Room of the City Council in our City Hall, a 
present sent by Hon. Meabum Staniland, Mayor of the 
old town, at the suggestion of John Lewis Clark, Esq., 
who made a visit to Boston, England, in 1849. ^r. Clark 
in a letter now on file in our City Hall gives an account of this gift in a commu- 
nication addressed to IMayor John P. Bigelow of this city in 185 1. The seals are 
all of the period of Henry VHI, when the borough was incorporated, and the 
wooden frame was made from one of the original timbers of St. Botolph's Church, 
of which Rev. John Cotton was vicar for twenty-one years. The frame bears the 
following inscription: — 




BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 




Photographed by George B. Brayton Kindness Hon. Andrew ]. Peters, Mayor of Boston, Massachusetts, and E. J'. B. Parke, Esq, 

SMALL BOX SENT IN 1919 TO HON. ANDREW J. PETERS, MAYOR OF BOSTON, NEW ENG- 
LAND, BY HIS WORSHIPFUL A. COOKE YARBOROUGH, MAYOR OF OLD BOSTON 

It is made from the railings that formed part of the dock in the old Guildhall, where the Pilgrim Fathers 
were tried in 1607. The message that came within the box appears in another illustration. 



TO THE CITY OF BOSTON, UNITED ST.\TES 

FROM 

MEABURN STANILAND, ESQUIRE, MAYOR 

OF BOSTON, OLD ENGLAND, 1 849. 

Our Mayor gratefully acknowledged receipt of the seals and at the same time sent 
some books and reports of our city to the English city. Another interesting pres- 
ent sent over here in 19 19 to our City Hall is an oak box containing a scroll upon 
which the ]\Iayor, Aldermen and Burgesses of Boston, England, congratulate the 
Mayor and Governing Body of our Boston on the victories of the American armies 
in France and the valuable assistance given to the AUied cause by the American 
Na\'y. The English officials also refer with pride to the connection between their 
ancient borough and the capital of Massachusetts. The plate on the outside of 
the bo.x explains its history: — 

To the Honourable Andrew J. Peters, 

Mayor and to the Governing Body 

of the City of Boston, Massachusetts: 
This box (which is made from the rails which formed a part of the dock in 
the old Guildhall, where the Pilgrim P\ilhers were tried in the year 1607) 
with the enclosed address of good fellowship, is presented by the Wor- 
shipful the Mayor and Corporation of the Borough of Boston, England. 

A. Cooke Yarborough, Mayor. 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



19 









Photographed by George B. Brayton 



Kindness Hon. Andrezi' j . Peters, Mayor of Boston, Massachusetts^ 
E. K B. Parke, Esq., and E. M. Hartwetl, Esq. 



OLD SEALS OF BOSTON, ENGLAND, 

now in the Committee Room of the City Council in City Hall, Boston, Massachusetts. They are of 
the period of Henry VIII and were presented to our city in 1849 by Hon. Meaburn Staniland, Mayor 
of Boston, England. The frame was made from one of the original timbers of St. Botolph's Church, 
Boston, England. 

Among other documents in City Hall is a communication sent in 1856 from old 
Boston to our City Government expressing appreciation of the visit of Hon. Joseph 
Story, President of the Boston Common Coimcil, who made a visit to St. Botolph's 
Town the year before. Still another document was written in 1865 expressing 
the sorrow of the people of old Boston at the time of the death of Abraham 
Lincoln. 

Another interchange of greetings occurred during the Mayoralty of the Hon. 
Frederick 0. Prince of our Boston, who invited the Mayor of the English town to 
be present at the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of our city. 
The Vicar of Boston at this time wrote: — ■ 

"I beg you to convey in such way as you deem most suitable my 
most grateful acknowledgments to those, who with yourself have been 
the cause of mj' late invitation, assuring them that both as a successor 
of John Cotton, one of your honoured founders, and as an inhabitant of 
the Town from which your city takes its name, I shall ever cherish the 
deepest interest in its welfare, both political and religious, and desire the 
blessing of Almighty God upon it. 







1 t*(.ni<piiliiUilu'ii.^ fii ll-Y tiiiufiii-|i»-iui s*iflt>Mf."».oj Ipi- «^<iiUi»I Ciuunit'.iii 

• llio III "'>1(ltur. OU<^ llv llKdluoWf "lAM.-loHCf f>iVfii Ic Uv C'llflff' .■ 

— ■11 if-'i- -V<i lii| 11.11 CQiunuvm wUi>,-.i(. ;. 

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lUv pupfr of CTiiinii'o aic (fis-uu) Ic Jjoici' C^ifcit ^loicltdr in 

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i-J • liihoii.> out' If Ibc <'l\-lfl.MllloH 41 ll-'i' llciM. ;. 

E ate t-noiii? of lU- bi,>l>.nn- fiuiKiluni Mwcrii cio i^ucuul^Wtouq^ 



cnr f.noiii 
.1 






uii!;li to alifx tu 



|«n lyir.il t"'ilij. 4iiu^ mt l.wpr lloat fifCi' 'wf' cciic/'ii.'.iou 
<f lUc 'llui .nil"' I'lji'ir I'liiufiOiiii -•of.j'ifn.' If li<iic_J<.. ,t4.-,n (frmil-iij 
null of ijoiin ^VUir-w .iii<ii| fir oHc Ic ^'(.iit out cSovHt' <!«<? tr 

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*" " I'l" InotiVii rtno un.vt'' Hoi oiiiif on oni coiuimcm v> 

love folr 
iviff 



l"iu^iuic|c -l>iil on COiiuiioii uViiIa au^" ti ^^ 



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Photographed by Grarie B. tirjyton Kindnns Hon. Andre:v J. Pltrn. Mayor of Boston, Massachusetts, and E. I'. K. I'jrkr. F.^q. 

MESSAGE FROM THE MAYOR OF BOSTON, ENGLAND, TO THE M.WOR OF BOSTON, 

M.\SSACHUSETTS 
It was enclosed in the bo.^ shown in another illustration. 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 21 

I need hardly say that the Mother regards not only with no envy but 
with honest pride of all right minded parents the far greater progress 
which the daughter across the Atlantic has made and is likely to 
make . . . 

I have the honour to remain 

Your faithful and obliged servant, 

G. B. Blenkin, Vicar of Boston." 

Soon after the sending of the box to City Hall our Public Library received a 
valuable present from St. Botolph's Town, which was presented by Alfred J. 
Ogston, Esq., acting British Consul in Boston, and which was received on behalf 
of this city, by Hon. Andrew J. Peters, our Mayor. Hon. George W. Coleman, 
President of the City Council in 191 5, and a member of the Council in 1914 and 
1916, made a visit to the old town in 1918 and while walking along the river he 
noticed part of an ancient oaken balustrade that once stood in the Court Room of 
the old Guildhall before which some of the Pilgrim Fathers, among whom was Elder 
William Brewster, had appeared as prisoners in 1607. The association of this 
relic with our city is even more closely brought home to us when it is reaUzed that 
Richard Bellingham, Governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, held the posi- 
tion of Recorder of the city of old Boston, doubtless passing by the raiUng many 
times a day during his routine of business. Mr. Coleman suggested to Hon. A. 
Cooke Yarborough, Mayor of old Boston, that it would be a very fitting thing if 
his town could send the rail, which was then being used as a back-yard fence along 
the river bank, to the daughter across the Atlantic and it arrived in May of the 
following year and is now one of the most interesting relics owned by the Library, 
standing on the Huntington Avenue side of the delivery room of the central office 
at Copley Square, the inscription on it reachng: — 

Before this raihng, 

once part of the dock 

in the Guildhall of Boston, 

Lincolnshire, 

stood on trial in 1607 

some of the Pilgrim Fathers 



The gift of the City of Boston, England, 1919. 



Mr. Ogston in presenting it said in part: — 

"I have the pleasure, your Honour, of requesting your acceptance of this ancient 
railing, as a token of the kindly and cordial feeling entertained by the City of Boston in 
England for the City of Boston in New England, and emblematic of the feeling of love and 
esteem which exists between the two nations." 



22 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 




Photo^mpkfd by 
George B. Brayton 



Kindness Charles f. Belden, Esq., 
and Otto FUischneVy Esq. 



SECTION OF RAILING FROM THE GUILD- 
H.\LL, BOSTON, ENGLAND, 

once part of the dock in the Guildhall, before which 
some of the Pilgrim Fathers were tried, now an in- 
teresting relic in the Boston Public Library, Boston, 
Massachusetts. This ancient raiUng was dis- 
covered by Hon. George W. Coleman, of our city, 
on a visit to the mother town, and given to our 
Library by Hon. A. Cooke Yarborough, Mayor of 
old Boston. The presentation, which took place on 
May 29, igiq, was made by .\lfred J. Ogston, Esq., 
acting British Consul in Boston, and the relic ac- 
cepted for our City by its Mayor, Hon. Andrew 
J. Peters. 



Mayor Peters during his address made 
the following remarks: — 

"Standing here it will serve as a link 
between the old day.s and the new, mutely 
teaching the great virtue of reverence to 
our children. It will furnish a fresh bond 
of attachment between ourselves and the 
people of Boston in Lincolnshire. As Mayor 
of the younger City bearing that honored 
name, I send back sympathetic greetings 
and warm appreciation to our kindred across 
the ocean who have been inspired to this 
act of gracious courtesy." 

The First Church in Boston, on the 
corner of Berkeley and Marlborough 
Streets, contains so many tablets of in- 
terest that they form almost a history 
in themselves of the early days of the 
Colony. The chief memorial is a re- 
cumbent statue of John Cotton which 
was erected to his memory by his de- 
scendants and which was unveiled in 
1907. The inscription records his birth 
in Derbyshire, England, in 1585, and his 
death in the Colony of Massachusetts 
Bay in 1652; it also mentions that he 
was a fellow of Emmanuel College, Cam- 
bridge, in 1607, that he was Vicar of 
the Church of St. Botolph, Boston, 
Lincolnshire, from 1612 to 1633, and 
that he was Teacher of the Boston 
Church from 1633 to 1652. The most 
interesting feature of this memorial is 
the stone pendant from the east portal 



of St. Botolph's Church, which now 
forms a part of the front of the pedestal upon which his statue rests. This 
stone, which can easily be identified in the accompanying cut, dates from the 
beginning of the fourteenth century and doubtless formed a part of the main en- 
trance during the time Cotton was Vicar. John Cotton's body rests in a big tomb, 
the First Church Vault, in King's Chapel Graveyard, but no other tablet in Boston 
commemorates his valuable work for the Colony. Rev. Paul Revere Frothingham, 
who is a descendant of John Cotton on his mother's side, made the address on the 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



23 



occasion of the dedication of this 
monument and during his address 
referred to Cotton's great power 
of application as a student, evi- 
denced by a four-hour sand glass 
which he turned over three times 
a day, whereby he figured his 
working hours. 

While on the subject of Vicar 
Cotton it may be interesting to 
mention that, a month after sail- 
ing, his fourth child was born on 
the Atlantic Ocean and the 
parents decided, therefore, to call 
him "Seaborn," presumably the 
suggestion having come from 
Stephen Hopkins, one of the Pil- 
grim Fathers, who thirteen years 
before had a son born on the out- 
ward voyage of the "Mayflower," 
whom he named "Oceanus." 
John Cotton's house stood on 
the upper part of the present 
site of the Suffolk Savings Bank. 

The people of Boston will 
always associate John Cotton 
with the old town in England 
from which he came, and they 
will appreciate him as much as 
the inhabitants of old Boston, 
who, it is said, believed 




from a pr 



Rev. Charles E. 



rk, J:il,u! II. Tutllr, I:.,., 
and Henry II. EJei , E^q. 



MEMORIAL TO JOHN COTTON IN THE FIRST 
CHURCH, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

On the pedestal can be seen an old stone pendant, dating 
from the fourteenth century, from the east portal of St. 
Botolph's Church, Boston, England, of which Cotton was 
\'icar for twenty-one years. Rev. Paul Revere Frothing- 
ham, a descendant of John Cotton on his mother's side, 
made an interesting address at the dedication. 



"The lantern of St. Botolph's ceased to burn 
When from the portals of that church he came 
To be a burning and a shining light 
Here in the wilderness." 

Another connecting link between the two Bostons has been made by the restora- 
tion of the chapel in St. Botolph's, now called Cotton Chapel, and by a memorial 
placed upon its walls to his memory, mainly through the liberality of his American 
descendants. Here is recorded a Latin inscription of his life-work written by Hon. 
Edward Everett of our city, whose wife, by the way, was a descendant of John 
Cotton; translated into English it reads as follows: — 



24 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

"That here John Cotton's memory may survive 
Where for so long he laboured when alive, 
In James' reign — and Charles's, ere it ceased, — 
A grave, skilled, learned, earnest parish priest; 
Till from the strife that tossed the Church of God 
He in a new world sought a new abode. 
To a new England — a new Boston — came, 
(That took to honour him that rev'rend name) 
Fed the first flock of Christ that gathered there — 
Till death deprived it of its Shepherd's care — 
There well resolved all doubts of minds perplext, 
Whether with cares of this world, or the next: 
Two centuries five lustra, from the year 
That saw the exile leave his labours here, 
His family, his townsmen, with delight — 
(Whom to the task their English kin invite) — 
To the fair fane he served so well of yore. 
His name, in two worlds honoured, thus restore, 
This chapel renovate, this tablet place. 
In this the vear of man's recovered Grace. 
1855" 

The restoration of the chapel was brought about chiefly through the help of three 
American citizens, George Peabody, Joshua Bates and Russell Sturgis, who were 
at that time living in London. They found that the chapel was being used as a 
lumber-room and that for some time the town fire-engine had been kept there. 
The corbels supporting the timber ceiling of Cotton Chapel are carved with the 
arms of early colonists of New England. 

The visitor to the First Church in our Boston will find tablets placed on its walls 
to John Winthrop, Thomas Dudley, Isaac Johnson and John Wilson, all founders 
of the church and all so well known that they need no description here. There are 
also other memorials to John Leverett, Sir Henry Vane, placed there by one of 
Vane's descendants in England, Thomas Oliver, Jeremiah Dummcr, Ezekiel 
Cheever, John Davenport, Simon and Anne Bradstreet and Anne Hutchinson. 
Other tablets to distinguished citizens of this city were erected later to Edward 
Everett, the Emersons, Robert Treat Paine, John Quincy Adams, Rev. Nathaniel 
L. Frothingham and other persons too numerous to mention here. A doorway has 
also been erected in the church by the Colonial Society of Massachusetts to the 
memory of Governor Thomas Hutchinson "in grateful recognition of a long and 
distinguished career of public service always guided by a conscientious desire to be 
loyal both to the Province and to the Crown." The only statue outside of the church 
is that of Governor John Winthrop and it is interesting to mention to our readers 
that a descendant of his now lives in the house directly opposite this First Church. 

Dr. Charles E. Park, the present minister of this church, and Rev. A. G. Peaston, 
of the Spain Lane Unitarian Chapel of old Boston, carried on a correspondence in 
1915, and parts of their letters are here given: — 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



25 




From a recer.i /■/; ■; 



<;, /;. U.u-^-f'Td. noflr,n. Eni^lund 



Kindness Ian Forbes 'Robertson, Esq. 



COTTON CHAPEL (FORMERLY CALLED FOUNDERS CIL\PEL) IN ST. BOTOLPH'S 

CHURCH, BOSTON, ENGLAND, 

restored in 1855 chiefly through the help of three American citizens then living in London, George Peabody, 
Joshua Bates and Russell Sturgis. The memorial tablet to John Cotton, shown in another illustration, is 
in this Chapel. 



"To THE Minister and Members of 
THE First Church, Boston, Mass. U.S.A. 

Dear Brethren: 

The celebration of a century of peace between the U.S.A. and Gt. 
Britain, which we had hoped to commemorate suitably this month, 
affords us the agreeable privilege of greeting you with cordiality and 
affection. December 24th, 1S14, will be ever memorable in this 
Country, not only for 'ringing in the hundred years of peace,' but as the 
inauguration of a sentiment of kinship, trust and good-will, which has 
gained strength steadily, and has made a suggestion of armed conflict 
between the two nations literally unthinkable. 

A. G. Peaston, Minister, 
H. Barron Clark, President, 
F. KiME, Secretary." 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 27 

To which Mr. Park made a reply which we quote in part: — 

"To THE Minister and Congregation of the 
Spain Lane Unitarian Chapel, 
Boston, Lincolnshire, 
England. 

Dear Bnihrcn: — 

Your cordial communication having been received and read in Congregation, we are 
directed by the First Church in Boston to address you in acknowledgment of your letter, 
and to assure you of the lively and heartfelt gratification which your friendliness has 
aroused in us. 

We share with you the pride and pleasure of the thought that one hundred years of 
unbroken peace have cemented the relations of these two countries in a union of ideals 
and an identity of sympathies, which we are emboldened to hope and believe, can never 
again be dissolved; and these feelings we believe to be by no means peculiar to us, but to 
be the common property of all true citizens of the United States of America. 

We are deeply conscious of the significance of this Centennial, standing, as it does, 
almost if not quite unique in history, as the symbol of the longest peace that has ever 
existed between two nations in such active and constant intercourse as ours; and giving 
the world a notable object lesson in international comity and fellowship. . . . 

The value of our own Centennial is tragically accentuated by these momentous events. 
Our hopes and our wishes go forth to you day and night, that you come to a peace, that 
shall be speedy if it may be, but that shall be honorable at all costs. . . . 

On behalf of the First Church in Boston, 

Charles E. Park, Minister, 
John W. Bartol, 

Henry H. Edes for the Standing Committee, 
Jan. 25, igi5. JoHN W. Denny, Clerk." 

The First Church also sent over funds during the war to be used by this church in 
old Boston for the relief of soldiers' families. In 1880 Rev. Dr. Rufus Ellis, min- 
ister of the First Church, visited the old town and brought back a number of 
presents. 

Another connecting link between old Boston and this city is a beautiful stone 
tracery of an ancient window which was sent as a present from St. Botolph's Church 
to our Trinity Church and which is placed on one side of the cloister leading from 
the Clarendon Street entrance. The inscription on the plate nearby reads as fol- 
lows : — 

Part of the original tracery from a window 

of the ancient Church of St. Botolph, Boston, 

Lincolnshire, England, of which John Cotton 

was Vicar for XXI vcars until he came to 

New England m MDCXXXIII. 

Presented to Trinity Church by the 

Reverend G. B. Blenkin, Vicar of St. Botolph's 

and placed here as a precious memorial of the 

Church of our Fathers, October MDCCCLXXIX. 

The fragments of this window had been discarded in old Boston and an American 
visitor, seeing them in the corner of the church, expressed the wish that they be sent 



28 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



over here to Trinity Church, 
which was accomplished in the 
j-ear 1879. There was a friendly 
rivalry in our Boston as to 
which church should be favored 
with this gift from the old city. 
Rev. Rufus Ellis, pastor of the 
First Church, and, therefore, a 
successor of John Cotton, 
thought that his edifice was the 
fitting place for the tracery to 
be installed, while Rev. Phillips 
Brooks as rector of Trinity 
Church, the foremost Episcopal 
church of Boston, urged that the 
gift was without doubt intended 
for his church. After several 
pleasant discussions it was ami- 
cably settled, and the media'val 
stone work found a final resting- 
place in the cloister of Trinity 
Church. The Rector of Trinity 
at the time of the receipt of this 
relic spoke of the great value 
which attaches in New England 
to anything associated with the 
name of John Cotton and added: 
"For ourselves and for the church 
which we represent we acknowl- 
edge a peculiar gratification in 
affixing to our new walls so wel- 
come a reminder of our mother 
country and of our Mother Church, for whose prosperity and welfare we shall 
ever pray. . . . The gift has attracted the interest not only of our own parishioners, 
but of all our citizens I" 

Trinity Church has five pieces of communion silver given by his "Maj'^. K. 
George 2°'* by his Exc^. Gov^ Shirley: 1742," and on each one is the English coat 
of arms. There is also in this church a memorial to Rev. Arthur Stanley, Dean of 
Westminster, a great friend of Rev. Phillips Brooks, in memory of the first sermon 
he preached while in America in 1878. Rev. Phillips Brooks preached several times 
in St. Botolph's Church and also in Westminster Abbey, London. On one occasion 




TRACEKV WINDOW IRUM ST. UUTULPII'S IX THE 

CLOISTER OF TRINITY CHURCH, 

BOSTON, M.-\SSACHUSErrS, 

sent as a present by the Vicar of the English church. It is 
placed in the open corridor on the Clarendon Street side of 
the building. 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



29 



"^^^'^^^^^/^it/^^U^ 



when he preached in St. Botolph's, all the other 
places of worship in the town were closed in 
order that their congregations might hear him. 

King's Chapel possessed for a number of 
years some church silver, which Governor 
Hutchinson exchanged for a new communion 
service, the gift of King George III, at wliich 
time he took away the old service, sending 
some pieces to Christ Church, Cambridge, two 
of which are marked, "The gift of King 
William and Queen Mary to ye Reve'd. Sam'l 
Myles for ye use of their Maj'ties Chappell 
in New England, 1694." Other pieces were 
sent to St. Paul's Church, Newburyport. King's 
Chapel was foimded in 1686 and the first 
building was the first Church of England in 
Boston. The corner-stone of the present build- 
ing was laid on August 11, 1749, the architect 
being Peter Harrison, who was born in Eng- 
land in 1716. In 1918 a tablet was placed 
near the entrance of the church in his honour 
by certain architects of Boston. There are 
also many interesting tablets to the early settlers 
and to important members of the congrega- 
tion up to the present day, including such well- 
known people as Ohver Wendell Holmes, Roger 
Wolcott, Samuel Appleton, Charles P. Curtis, 
Francis E. Foote, Henry Wilder Foote, Ephraim 
Peabody, Robert S. Peabody, Thomas Newton, 
one of the founders of the church, John Lowell, 
Kirk Boott and Arthur T. Lyman. 

Christ Church, which is usually referred to as the Old North Church, and 
which is situated on Salem Street, once called Green Lane when it was the most 
fashionable thoroughfare in Boston, is the possessor of two flagons bearing the royal 
arms of King George and among other relics is the well-known "vinegar" Bible 
also given by this king. 

The St. Botolph Club in our city possesses some interesting relics of the mother 
town, which are best described by quoting from the original records of the Club. 
A meeting of the members was held on the 25th of February, 1882, Francis Park- 
man, Esq., the President, presiding, at which a letter was read by the Secretary, 
parts of which are here given : — 




from a phoingrapk 



Kindness 
Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 



MEMORIAL TABLET IN COTTON 

CHAPEL, ST. BOTOLPH'S CHURCH, 

ENGLAND, 

placed there in memory of Rev. John 
Cotton, by his American descendants 
and others. A Latin inscription, written 
by Hon. Edward Everett, given in the 
text in English, describes the placing of 
this memorial, in the year 1855. 



3° 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 




PhoiORraphed by 
Geoff^e B, Brayton 



Kindness of the Governors 

oj the St. Hotolpk Club. 

Boston, Massachusetts 



LOVING CUP, FORMERLY THE PROPERTY 

OF THE CORPORATION OF BOSTON, 

ENGLAND, 

presented to the St. Botolph Club, Boston, Mas- 
sachusetts, by Rev. George E. Ellis, whose nephew, 
Arthur B. Ellis, Esq., brought it to this country. 
It was ])resentcd to the Club on Februarj' 25, 
1882, and accepted on behalf of the Club by Francis 
Parknian, Esq., then President. The cup is marked 
beneath the Borough Arms, "Richard Bell, Mayor, 
I745-" 



"Dear Mr. Parkman: — 

I herewith — through you as its Presi- 
dent, — present to the St. Botolph Club, of 
this City, a massive Silver-Gilt 'Loving 
Cup' formerly belonging to the Corporation 
of our Mother-town, Boston, Lincolnshire, 
England. The Cup, with other pieces of 
Silver-plate belonging to that Corporation, 
was sold by auction in June, 1837, was pur- 
chased by Mr. Daniel Jackson, and by him 
bequeathed to his Son, Mr. George Jackson, 
on whose death in May, 1881, it was at the 
disposal of his widow. 

My nephew, Mr. Arthur B. Ellis, being 
in Boston last summer, and having the 
opportunity, thinking I might wish to 
possess the Cup, was allowed to bring it to 
this country. 

It seemed to me that the St. Botolph 
Club .should fitly have the Cup in its pwsses- 
sion and would value it though it is not 
requisite that the)- should put it to its origi- 
nal use. . . . 

George E. Ellis." 

On motion of Mr. Bradford it was 

"Voted that the thanks of the Club be 
tendered to the Rev'd. Dr. George E. Ellis 
for his valuable gift of a 'Loving Cup,' 
formerly owned by the Corporation of Bos- 
ton, England, which is hereby gratefully 
accepted upon the conditions named in his 
letter of the 22nd day of February, 1882. 

Adjourned, T. R. Suluvan, Secretary." 



This cup is marked beneath the Borough Arms, "Richard Bell, Mayor, 1745.'' 
Three years later the Club received another valuable relic of old Boston, the gift 
being made at a special meeting of the Club held on Monday, June 22. The Presi- 
dent, Francis Parkman, Esq., called the meeting to order and introduced to the 
members Rev. William S. Key of Boston, England, who then presented to the 
Club on behalf of the Municipal Charity Trustees of St. Botolph's Town a casting, 
or reproduction, of its Borough Arms. On this occasion the cup was filled and 
passed round among those present, who drank suitable toasts to the two Bostons 
and to the mermaids that appear on the shield. After an acceptance of the gift by 
the President, the following votes of thanks were passed by the meeting: — 

"Voted that the cordial thanks of the St. Botolph Club be e.xtended 
to the Rev. William S. Key for the kind efforts which he has made in 
securing this interesting gift for permanent exhibition by the Club. 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



31 



Voted that we accept with warm thanks 
the kind and welcome gift of the Municipal 
Charity Trustees of the Borough of Boston, 
England. 

Voted that the Arms of the Town of 
St. Botolph be placed in our Club-House as 
a memorial of Old Boston and a token of 
the cordial regard borne towards her by her 
namesake." 

These records are signed by Arthur B. 
Ellis, Esq., Secretary. The discovery 
of this relic and its voyage to our 
Boston are worth describing. In 1881 
Rev. William S. Key and two friends 
of his, sons of Rev. Rufus Ellis, former 
pastor of the First Church, Boston, 
Massachusetts, while visiting the Town 
Hall in old Boston, formerly the Hall of 
the Guild of St. Mary, where the leaders 
of the Pilgrim band were confined, un- 
earthed from a pile of rubbish in the 
basement the original Borough Arms 
made of wood which used to hang over 
the Recorder's seat in the Hall. A year 
later Mr. Key received an invitation 
from his Worshipful the Mayor, John 
Cabourn Simonds, who for some time 
carried on an extensive business with 




Photographtd by George B. Brayton Kindness of the Governors 
oj the St. Botolph Club, Boston, Massachusetts 

COAT OF ARMS OF BOSTON, ENGLAND 

A replica of the old Coat of Arms which was dis- 
covered by Rev. William S. Key, in the Guildhall 
of Boston, England, where the leaders of the Pilgrim 
band were tried. The original used to hang over 
the Recorder's desk and was unearthed from a pile 
of rubbish in the basement of the building. This 
reproduction was presented by John Caboum 
Simonds, Mayor of the old town, the St. Botolph 
Club accepting it at a meeting of the Club on June 
22, 1885. It now hangs on the Club walls. 



American firms in corn and cotton-seed, 

to attend a meeting of the Pilot Commissioners to be held in the Hall of Justice, 
or Court Room, where Elder Brewster and his friends had been tried. The 
people of St. Botolph's Town had not known of the existence of this treasure 
and at the meeting thanked the discoverer and suggested that a replica be made 
in metal and that it should be presented to the St. Botolph Club in Boston, 
Massachusetts, which organization, as the presiding officer expressed it, "stands for 
the closest relationship between our own town and its namesake beyond the Atlan- 
tic." It was necessary to determine the exact colouring to be used in reproducing the 
various symbolic figures and this was attained by a visit to the Herald's College in 
London. When finished, the Arms was exhibited in a window in the market-place 
of old Boston, while over the building floated the Stars and Stripes, the occasion 
arousing great interest. Upon its arrival at this port the Custom House authori- 
ties were in a quandary as to how to classify it and a charge would have been 



32 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

loroucjh >^'P-5 of 13o5tou 



niuC5 (glfy.drsq ilapr 19lO-lK^l9lH2.mfaburn§tnnil{inOCroiun(rifrk. 

; ftJr It hnoiun that this anrimt biulOjim \vm pi\vth;\'irfi luj ifrauli inirnsoii.CEsquirf.^.JJ n rrsitimt of this 
foiunfrom the (Sourniors of thr t5iiston (bvmiimiir ^lUool jfouiiOationanO bq him ronunjri) to thr/lUiyar 
AlCimiim nut) iiuvjifssrs of this (Gorough f nr thrir u!ir m pri prtiutij nnJ through thf hbrraliti) of thf inhahitauts anil a 
subotautial Oonation from thf (Costonian ipotu-tii Uoi.ton jllassarhusftfs IS.ip A a funi vuas rai%rD by thf 
iUai)Dr, aub apfntifb \n the pri'!irroatin\\ of tlir <rimliimi\ \n coiiimcmotation of thf Knnn of Xi\a latr /llajr sty , 

^diirn Urtiiuavfi llll 

From the BoiUmian Society PuUkations Kindness C. F. Rtad, Esq., and Charles 11. Taylor, Jr., Liq. 

TABLET IN GUILDHALL, BOSTON, ENGLAND 

recording the fact that members of the Bostonian Society, of Boston, Massachusetts, subscribed i'loo 

towards the restoration of this building. 

levied had not Oliver Wendell Holmes, James Russell Lowell and Francis Park- 
man, President of the St. Botolph Club, persuaded the Collector of the Port to 
release it. Both of these presents, together with a number of pictures of the Eng- 
lish town, adorn the walls of the St. Botolph Club, which takes its name from the 
Patron Saint of the town. On every seventeenth of June the Club has a lunch- 
eon to celebrate his birthday. Members of the Club sent funds some time ago to 
help defray expenses for repairs to St. Botolph's Church. 

The Bostonian Society, in the Old State House, Boston, Mass., is proud of the 
fact that a tablet in the Guildhall of old Boston records that the members of this 
well-known society subscribed £ioo in 191 5, towards the restoration of this ancient 
building and the following letter of thanks was sent by Hon. James Eley, Mayor of 
Boston, England, to Grenville H. Norcross, Esq., President of the Bostonian 
Society : — 

"Your letter of the 22nd ult. is to hand, and I beg to thank you for your kindly thought 
of me. No ceremony with reference to the preservation of the Guildhall has yet taken 
place. I waited during last summer in the hope that some of your members might be in 
the old country, and I intended arrangements whereby the completion of the work and the 
splendid generosity of the Bostonian Society should be recognized and placed on record. 
However, I trust the pleasure is only deferred, and when this terrible war is over, I look 
forward to something of the kind. . . . The country will generally wait for the victory and 
deem no sacrifice too great to secure a lasting and honourable peace. 

I am. Dear Sir, very truly yours, 

James Eley." 

The Bostonian Society, which owns a splendid collection of Boston relics of the 
old daj's, also has on \iew to the many visitors who go there a wooden model of 
St. Botolph's Church and, also, many attractive pictures of old Boston. This 
Society some years ago sent to the Guildhall a large picture of our Old State House. 
While Hon. William Bedford was Mayor of the EngUsh Boston, he carried on an 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



33 



interesting correspondence with the Bostonian 

Society and always entertained visitors from 

this city. There have been so many visits 

by our prominent citizens to the old town 

that it is impossible to mention more than a 

few. In 1895, Hon. T. F. Bayard, the first 

Ambassador to Great Britain from the United 

States, went to Boston, Lincolnshire, and 

distributed prizes at the old grammar school 

and while there attended a banquet given in 

his honour by the Mayor and Corporation 

of the town. In a speech Mr. Bayard spoke 

as follows: — 

"This Boston — this Boston of old England — 
is the mother and the name giver of a younger 
and a stronger Boston far away across the sea. 
And yet the younger and the stronger Boston, 
the city that holds perhaps one half-million of 
inhabitants, owes so much, how much cannot be 
fully stated or measured, to the little town of 
twenty thousand people that preserves its exist- 
ence and holds its own on this side of the At- 
lantic." 




From a recent photograph 



Ian Forbes-kobfrtson, tsq. 



THE GUILDHALL, BOSTON, 
ENGLAND, 



where the Pilgrim Fathers were tried. The 
Bostonian Society of our Boston subscribed 
towards its restoration in 1915 and a tablet 
shown in another illustration records this 
fact. The Boston Public Library is the pos- 
sessor of part of the ancient raiUng that came 
from this building, also shown in another cut. 



In the following year a party of American 

Congregationalists, chief of whom was Rev. 

Dr. Dunning of Boston, landed in PljTnouth 

and visited the old town in Lincolnshire, being 

entertained while there by the Mayor and 

other officials. Dr. Dunning spoke of our city 

and of John Cotton in the following terms: — 

"Old Boston is our home, and we feel that we have come back to the land to which we 
belong. It was a Vicar of Old Boston that practically founded the city of New Boston. 
I suppose we may accept the opinion that the successors of John Cotton have preached as 
well as he did, for we have abundant testimony that they do." 

In 1897 Rt. Rev. William Lawrence, Bishop of Massachusetts, visited the old 

town and from the pulpit of St. Botolph's Church referred in these words to the 

ties that united the two Bostons: — 

"You little realize what it is for one born in Boston, in the United States, a citizen of 
Boston, the Bishop not only of Boston, but of the State, of which Boston is the capital— 
you little realize, with what deep emotion he comes here and looks in the faces of you who 
are citizens of old Boston, and recalls to mind what the newer Boston owes to you, with 
what sympathv it turns towards you, and with what sincerity it tells you that we are 
brethren— brethren not only in Christ and in the Church — but brethren in race, in blood, 
in free institutions — brethren as sons of England." 



34 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 




from 11 photograph 



Another %isit was that of Rev. George W. 
Shinn, Rector of Grace Church, Newton, who 
journeyed there in 1905 to inspect the plan of 
St. Botolph's Church mth the idea that some 
church in this country might copy the old 
church "where Cotton served so long and at 
whose altars so many of the colonists to 
America had worshipped." In 1909, on the 
sexcentenary of the founding of St. Botolph's 
Church, many Americans attended unofficially 
the celebration, although the Mayor of our 
city and other distinguished persons who had 
been invited were unable to be present. 

It has often been supposed that our city 
was named by, or for, John Cotton but this is 
not so, as Cotton came to this country three 
years after our city had been changed from 
Trimountain to Boston. There have been 
many legends concerning its name; some his- 
torians believe our Boston was so named as a 
compliment to Isaac Johnson of old Boston, 
who came here in 1630; other historians be- 
lieve it was so called to encourage John Cotton 
to come to this country and assist the colony, 
while Hon. R. C.Winthrop stated that "The 
name of Boston was especially dear to the 
Massachusetts colonists from its associations 
with St. Botolph's town and this was probably 
really the reason for its selection." In speaking of the early settlers, Governor 
Hutchinson mentioned that "Lincolnshire contributed greatly to the new planta- 
tion and more of our principal families derive their origin from thence than from 
any part of England, unless the City of London be an exception." The writer 
of "Pilgrim Fathers of New England" makes the statement that "probably 
there is no town in England that has sent forth so many of its best and worthiest 
citizens to the great work of colonizing America than this town of Boston." 
As a proof of this statement, we may mention the names of some of the early 
settlers in our city who lived in the English Boston or nearby: Isaac Johnson 
and John Humphrey, brothers-in-law of the third Earl of Lincoln, who was a 
leader of the Puritan party and who lived at Sempringham, not far from old 
Boston; Thomas Dudley who was steward or manager of the Earl's estate 
lived in or near Boston; also Simon Bradstreet who was a member of his 



Ian Forbei-Robertson, Eiq. 



THE PULPIT IN ST. BOTOLPH'S 
CHURCH, BOSTON, ENGLAND, 

from which Rev. John Cotton preached be- 
fore he came to New England. He was Vicar 
of this EngHsh church for twenty-one years. 
Once when Rev. Phillips Brooks preached 
from this pulpit, all the other churches in 
old Boston were closed so that the congrega- 
tions could listen to his excellent sermon. 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



35 



household. To our town also came John 
Leverett, whose father, Thomas Leverett, 
had been an Alderman of Boston in Lincoln- 
shire; Richard Bellingham, who had held the 
position of Recorder there as already men- 
tioned, and Atherton Hough, who had been 
Mayor of the city in 1628. William Codding- 
ton, one of the early governors of Rhode 
Island, was born in Boston, England, in 1601. 
The English town, as we have seen, furnished, 
therefore, four governors of Massachusetts 
and one of Rhode Island. 

Few places in England possess a more 
impressive history than Boston. Its records 
go back to the middle of the seventh century 
when Botolf, a Saxon monk, often called "the 
Saint of seafaring men," founded a monastery 
on the site of an inconspicuous village called 
Icanhoe in 654. The word "Boston" is 
usually held to mean Botolf 's ton (or town). 
As early as 1270 the form Botolfston is found 
in an English poem and in the fourteenth 
century such names as " Botolestone " and 
"Botolf's tune" occur. Still later, Lambarde, 
about the year 1577, states that the place was 
then called Bostonstow, though "commonly 
and corruptly called Boston." Towards the 
end of the ninth century the Danes invaded 
the place and the followers of St. Botolph and his buildings were swept away. In 
1309 the church, which tradition says was built on wool-packs, was rebuilt, largely 
through the efforts of Margaret Tilney, to whom a memorial has been placed in the 
church. The tower which is usually known as "Boston Stump" can be seen forty 
miles out to sea, and the many American visitors there are never tired of speaking 
of the impressiveness of the old church, with its high tower, on the banks of the river 
Witham. The church has some peculiar architectural features. It has a narrow 
winding stone staircase composed of three hundred and si.xty-five steps, the e.xact 
number of days in a year ; seven doors, being the number of days in a week ; is lighted 
by fifty-two windows, the number of weeks in a year. The clerestory roof is sup- 
ported on twelve massive stone columns, the number of months in a year; while, 
in order to reach the library located over the South porch, which contains official 
relics of Rev. John Cotton's family, among them being the baptismal registers of 




From an enlnrgeincnt m the S[. Rotolpli Club, Boston, 
Massachusetts 
Kindness oj the Governors oj the St. Botolph Club 

FIGURE OF ST. BOTOLPH ON ST. 

BOTOLPH'S CHURCH, BOSTON, 

ENGLAND 




From an old print owned by Allan I ■ 

BOSTON, ENGLAND, FROM THE TOWER OF ST. BOTOLPH'S CHURCH 




From an old print engraved by J. H'alker from a drawing by If. Brand, published ijQS, London 

BOSTON, ENGLAND 



Owned by Allan Forbes 



BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



37 



his children, the visitor has to 
climb twenty-four much worn 
stone steps, — the same number 
as the hours in a day. To reach 
the roof of the chancel one must 
climb sixty steps, the exact num- 
ber of minutes in an hour and 
seconds in a minute. At the left 
as one enters the door of St. 
Botolph's Church there is a 
heavy oak chest, iron-bound and 
with a heavy padlock attached, 
which is filled every Saturday 
night with four-pound "quar- 
tern" loaves purchased out of 
the income derived from legacies 
left by different benefactors who 
made the bequests between the 
years 1600 and 1755 a.d. and on 
Sunday, at the close of morning 
service, the loaves are distributed 
to a number of deserving women. 
This chest was discovered in the 
belfry of the church by Hon. 
Edward Everett while he was 
Minister to England on a trip 
made to Boston, during which 
he ascended the "Stump," or 
tower of the church, and espied 
the chest from his high position. 
The Vicar was much surprised 
to hear of his discovery and 
immediately had it brought 
down, thoroughly overhauled 
and put to its present use. 

Boston is about four miles 
from the sea and a lantern in the 
top of the tower formerly acted 
as a guide to mariners. It was 
this lamp in the old tower that is 
home for the wilderness of New 




From a photof^rapk Kindness Fred H. Kimball, £:'j. 

STATUE OF ANNE HUTCfflNSON IN THE STATE 
HOUSE, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

Anne Hutchinson, who was .\nne Marburj' before her mar- 
riage, was the daughter of a minister at .Alford in Lincolnshire. 
She was the first woman to be conspicuously connected with 
public life and the placing of her statue recently in the State 
Capitol in a sense marks the advent of woman suffrage in 
Massachusetts. While in our Boston, her opinions seem to 
have been favored by Rev. John Cotton. 

said to have ceased to burn when Cotton left his 
England. Old Boston was once a large seaport 




photographed by Cevrge H. Urayton 

TABLET ON BOSTON COMMON RECORDING ITS PURCHASE FROM WILLIAM BLACKSTONE, 
FIRST SETTLER IN BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

He died in Attleboro, Massachusetts, in that part of the city now Lonsdale, Rhode Island, a picture of the 
monument near his grave being shown on page 45. 
This tablet stands near the comer of Tremont and Park Streets, the inscription reading: — 

In or about 

the year of our Lord 

One thousand six hundred 

thirty and four 

the then present inhabitants 

of sd Town of Boston of whom 

the Honble John ^\■inthrop Esq'' 

Govur of the Colony was chiefe 

did treate and agree with 

Mr. William Blackstone 

for the purchase of his 

Estate and rights in any 

neck of Land called 

Boston 

after which purchase the 

Town laid out a plan for 

a trayning field w^hich ever 

since and now is used for 

that purpose and for 

the feeding of cattell 

The de[>osition of John Odlin and others concerning the sale of Blackstone's land known as Boston 
Common. 




from a photograph by George £. Brayton 

THE OLD STATE HOUSE, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

It stands at the head of State Street, on the site of the original town-house, and has witnessed many 
important historic events. The significance of the Lion and the Unicorn is explained on the copyripht 
page. 



40 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

and in the first part of the fourteenth century was one of the ten most important 
ports of the Kingdom, during the reign of King John even rivaling London. It 
was made a staple port in 1369, being the principal place in the east of England 
for the export of wool to Flanders and for the import of woolen cloth from there. 

The May Sheep Fair is one of the most important yearly events held 
in Boston. From early historic times Lincolnshire has been famous for the 
number of sheep raised there and for the superior quality of the wool and 
mutton. Fabulous prices have been paid by well-known sheep herders, farmers 
and exporters for Lincolnshire rams and ewes, for shipment to Argentina and other 
South American countries, as well as to Australia, New Zealand and other parts 
of the world, the purchase price for one ram often reaching $5,000. The exact 
date when the great sheep fair was started is lost in the mazes of early history, 
but there is a definite record in the year 1623, which mentions the price of pens 
for the accommodation of the animals while on sale. The importance of this fair 
has steadily increased and at the present time it ranks as one of the most important 
in England, occasionally assuming such large proportions that at times forty 
thousand sheep have been known to change hands in less than three hours. A 
scene at the fair is shown in the frontispiece. 

The fens stretched out towards the sea, even after the Normans had con- 
quered the territory, and it is said that the natives sometimes went out on 
stilts to meet the foe in order to be able to retreat in safety across the marshes 
to their strongholds after an attack. It may be interesting to New Englanders 
to know that eight miles from the town is a place called "Bunker's Hill," and 
also that a mile or so away is a small village called "New York" which 
recalls the remark of a New York driver in "Martin Chuzzlewit" who said 
"it brought Old York home to him quite vivid on account of its being so 
exactly unlike in every respect." 

ATHOL, MASSACHUSETTS 

THE Scotch tartan of the Murray clan was used in the decorations for the 
one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the incorporation of the town of 
Athol, Massachusetts, which was named in honour of Col. John Murray 
who was the founder of our town and who gave it its name for Blair Atholl, his 
native town in Scotland. At this celebration, which was held in June of the year 
191 2, the committee used letter paper on which appeared in colours this attractive 
tartan. John Murray was probably a distant relative of the Duke of Atholl, head 
of the great Murray clan, but he was not his son as many people have supposed. 
The present Duke, the eighth in line, is a t>pical Highland Chieftain. He served 
in the Nile expedition; in the South African War; commanded a Scottish cavalry 
regiment in the Great War and later took part in the fighting at Gallipoli. He and 



ATHOL, MASSACHUSETTS 



41 









k 



4 



From a photograph Kindness F. E. ff'ing, Esq. 

HIGH SCHOOL BUILDING, ATHOL, 
MASSACHUSETTS, 

showing the colours of the Duke of Atholl, of 
Blair Atholl, Scotland, fl>'ing at half mast at 
the time of the death of one of the Dukes in 
191 7. The colours were a present from this 
Duke some years before. 



his family have taken the greatest interest 

in the Massachusetts Athol, which, by the 

way, has always been wrongly spelled with 

only one "1." The interchanges began in 1904 

with an interesting correspondence between 

Lodge St. John's No. 14 of Dunkeld (near 

Atholl), in Perthshire, Scotland, of which the 

late Duke was a member, and F. E. Wing, 

Esq., one of Athol's foremost citizens and 

Worshipful Master of Star Lodge in his town. 

This friendship resulted during the same year 

in the gift of a gavel, by the Duke of Atholl, 

to the Massachusetts Lodge, copied from the 

one used in the Scotch Lodge and made from 

one of the larch trees which abound in the 

Duke's private park and which were planted 

by the Duke himself. This gavel was pre- 
sented at one of the meetings of the Lodge 

and is still used on all important occasions, the inscription thereon reading as 

follows: — 

Gavel made of larch grown on the Atholl Plantation Scotland: pre- 
sented by John 7th Duke of Atholl K. T. to the Star Lodge of Free and 
Accepted Masons, Athol, Massachusetts, U.S.A. : Frank E. Wing, Worship- 
ful Master: 1904. 

During the following year the distinguished Scotchman was elected an honorary 
member of Star Lodge and was invited to visit the town on several occasions, 
one being the one hundred and fiftieth aimiversary of Athol. Li 191 1 the Duke 
sent Mr. Wing a flag similar to his private colours flown over his castle, the pattern 
consisting of alternate horizontal stripes of orange and black. It is interesting to 
mention that this flag, by order of the Board of Selectmen and School Committee, 
was flown at half mast from the High School building of our Athol when the Duke 
died in the year 191 7. At the same time, at the suggestion of Mr. Wing, the 
Selectmen sent the following cable to the Duke's son: "Town of Athol, Massa- 
chusetts, mourns death of His Grace, your father. Athol colors half staff one week." 
A reply cable in these words was received and entered upon the records of Athol: 
"Atholl men this side, family and self, deeply touched that you share in our sor- 
row." Cables were also exchanged in 1914 at the time of the Duke's Jubilee cele- 
bration of accession to the title. 

The Scotch godmother of our Athol, a name which is understood to mean 
"pleasant land," is situated among the hills of Perthshire on the southern slope of 
the Grampian hills, the river Tay flowing through the district. In the picturesque 



42 



ATHOL, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a recent photograph by Valentine 6* Co.t Dundee^ Scotland Kindness inn Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

BLAIR CASTLE, BLMR ATHOLL, PERTHSHIRE, SCOTLAND, 

the residence of the Dukes of Atholl. The Massachusetts town of Athol was named for this Scotch town by 
Col. John Murray, who was probably a distant relative of the Dukes of Atholl, who have always shown a 
great interest in the New England town. 



pass of Killiecrankie, nearby, Claverhouse fell in 1689, though \ictorious over the 
troops of King William. 

The Duke of Atholl, grandfather of the present Duke and head of the Murray 
clan, was a great Scottish chieftain, having the title of Marquess of TuUibardine. 
In 1839 for the Eglinton Tournament he formed a Guard of Honour composed of 
Atholl men in Highland uniform and armed with Lochaber axes and swords, like 
the Yeomen of the Guard. Three years later, on Queen \'ictoria's first visit 
to Scotland, two hundred and fifty men formed a Guard of Honour to her at 
Dunkcld and, in commemoration of the event. Her Majesty presented the Atholl 
Highlanders with Colours, which was practically a recognition of the body as a 
unit, a picturesque relic of bygone days. Since then they have been armed with 
rifles. Drills are still held for ceremonial purposes and their execution is said to 
be very fine. Every man of this body who could enlist in the Great War did so. 
This Atholl "army" used to drill in front of Blair Castle and is described as speak- 
ing Gaelic fluently. It was customary for it to conduct a wild dance on driU 



ATHOL, MASSACHUSETTS 43 

days, known as the "Ram's Reel." The thrill of the AthoU pipes is well described 
in these lines written by James Hogg of Perthshire: — 

"A' the din o' a' the drummers 
Canna rouse like AthoU cummers [noise of the pipes]. 
When I'm dowie, wet, or weary, 
Soon my heart grows light and cheery, 
Wlien I hear the sprightly nummcrs 
O' my dear, my Atholl cummers. 
When the fickle lasses vex me, 
When the cares o' hfe perplex me. 
When I'm fley'd wi' frightfu' rumors, 
Then I cry for Atholl cummers." 

Another event of interest in connection with this Scotch town was the visit of 
Robert Bruce to Blair Castle; his hosts enjoyed his visit so much and were so 
anxious to prolong his stay, that they sent a servant to persuade his coach- 
man to remove a shoe from one of the horses in order to retard his departure. 
At another time King George IV was a visitor to Scotland; it is said that he ap- 
peared at a ball given by the Duchess of Gordon with his shoes tied with silk rib- 
bons instead of the usual buckles, thereby causing ruin to all persons engaged in 
the buckle trade. 

Another story is told of two Scotchmen who, having just decided to fight a 
duel, repaired at once to the appointed place. Upon reaching their destination, 
one of them scribbled these words on a card which he handed to his rival: "Nae th- 
ing should be done in a hurry but catching fleas." The recipient of the card burst 
out laughing and the two departed good friends. Another anecdote is related of 
an old Scotch woman, who, unfortunately, had been indulging in too much Hquid 
refreshment. She was, as a result, brought before a magistrate, who asked her if 
she knew where all drunkards go. "Yes," she replied, "where they get the best 
whiskey." 

Colonel Murray came to America before the Revolution, settling in 
Rutland, but when the war broke out, his property was seized, as he remained 
loyal to the King. He went to Hahfax by way of Boston with the royal army 
and became a resident of St. John, New Brunswick, where his descendants 
still possess many relics of his early days in Athol, including the deeds to his 
lands in this town and also in Rutland and Lenox. There is a portrait of him 
in the Hazen family of St. John. There was a hole in this painting and there 
is a tradition in the family that a number of persons who searched for the 
Colonel after his flight from Massachusetts became vexed because he had 
escaped and so pierced the canvas with their bayonets, vowing they would leave 
their mark behind them. 

Athol, formerly called Pequiog, is supposed to resemble in scenery Blair Atholl 
and this fact may have been an added inducement to Colonel Murray to give his 



44 ATHOL, MASSACHUSETTS 

new abode the name of his ancestral home in Scotland. The township was first 
laid out in 1732 by the General Court, the incorporators including the well-known 
names of Oliver, Lee and Lord, other early settlers being the families of Field, 
Kendall, Goddard, Bancroft, Fay, Twichell and Wheeler. Rev. James Hum- 
phreys was the first minister of the town and he arrived on horseback, to assume 
his new duties, with his sermons and his goods in his saddle-bags. 



ATTLEBORO, :\IASSACHUSETTS 

4 TTLEBORO, Massachusetts, derived its name from the market town 
/_\ of Attleborough, County Norfolk, England, whence some of the early 
JL A. inhabitants of the Massachusetts city emigrated to America, gi\ing their 
settlement this name in remembrance of their native place. This origin of the 
name is further confirmed by the fact that in the English town there is a river 
called Bungay of about the same size as the one of that name in Attleboro, Massa- 
chusetts. The name of the Massachusetts city was formerly spelled the same as 
the town in England from which it took its name, but to conform, apparently, with 
the American idea of time saving and efficiency the final "ugh" was left off some 
time ago. 

The first inhabitant within the original limits of Attleboro was the celebrated 
William Blackstone, who was also the first settler and sole proprietor of " Shawmut," 
now Boston. He was a graduate of Emmanuel College, Cambridge University, 
and had been a clergjonan in England, emigrating about the year 1625 to this 
country that he might enjoy his own religious opinions here unmolested. He even 
found Governor Winthrop's colonists too intolerant, so he sought another retreat, 
selling his right and title to his old home on "Blackstone's Neck," as the Peninsula 
of Boston was then called, to the new inhabitants, each one paying him sbc shillings 
and some of them more, amounting in all to £30. With the purchase money he 
bought a "stock of cows" which he took with him to his new home on the banks 
of the Pawtucket River, now called Blackstone River in his honour. The Valley 
of the Blackstone has become justly celebrated as a manufacturing district, and 
contributes, by the advantages of its water-power, to the wealth and industry of 
New England. The place where he settled was within the ancient limits of Attle- 
boro, in that part called "The Gore," now Cumberland, Rhode Island, where he 
died in 1675. His house he called "Study Hall," and the eminence on which it 
was built was named "Study Hill," being so called to this day. The site of his 
dwelling and grave is now occupied by the Ann and Hope Mill of the Lonsdale 
Company, there being a monument in the mill yard in line with his grave, erected 
by his descendants in i88g, a picture of which is shown on the next page. Black- 
stone is best known through his connection with Boston, though he lived in the latter 



ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS 



45 



place but ten years as compared 
with forty years in Attleboro. 
He was fond of study and contem- 
plation, and preached sometimes 
for Roger Williams at Providence. 
He was also skillful in horticulture 
and woodcraft, caring more for 
solitude than for society. The 
library of one hundred and eighty- 
four volumes in his wilderness 
home was remarkable for those 
early days in this country. He 
was a man of many eccentricities 
and among other things is recorded 
as keeping a trained bull which 
he is pictured as riding up and 
down the sandy shore of Charles 
Street in Boston. Later, after he 
had moved from the latter city, 
he used to visit his friends in 
Providence, similarly mounted, 
such animals being used quite 
frequently in those days for carry- 
ing burdens of all kinds. 

The original purchaser of Attle- 
boro land was Captain Thomas 
Willett, an EngUshman who had 
lived with the Pilgrims in Holland 
and who became the successor of 
Miles Standish as the Commander 
of the MiHtary Company of New 
PljTnouth. Captain Willett was 

the best kind of diplomat, an able man of justice who inspired confidence among 
all, including the Indians, with whom he was always on friendly terms. By authority 
of the Court of New PljTnouth in 1666 he obtained the Rehoboth North Purchase, 
which became Attleboro, buying the land from Massasoit's eldest son, Wamsutta, 
who was then the reigning sachem of Pokanoket. He was honoured by selection as 
organizer of the new government after New York had been surrendered by the 
Dutch, was chosen the first English Mayor of the American metropolis and 
re-elected to that position. He afterwards returned to Swansea, near Attleboro, 
where he died August 11, 1674. His great-grandson. Col. Marinus Willett, 




From a photograph 

WILLIAM BLACKSTONE MEMORI.\L IN LONS- 
DALE, RHODE ISLAND, 

formerly part of .Attleboro, Massachusetts, now part of 
Cumberland, Rhode Island. It is placed in the yard of 
the .Ann and Hope Mill of the Lonsdale Company in line 
with his grave. The above mill now occupies the site of 
Blackstone's home where he spent forty years of his life. 
While he is best known on account of his connection with 
the early histor>' of Boston, Blackstone lived a far greater 
length of time within the original limits of Attleboro. 



46 



ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a phalonraph 



Ktndnrs! Rev. J. Ue MilcklU. Ph.D., and .Mn. Ilnlttr M. Kendall 



ST. MARY'S CHURCH, ATTLKBOROUGH, ENGLAND 

A stone which once formed a capital in this church was obtained through the efforts of the late Major Everett 
S. Horton , and placed in the ladies' parlor of the Second Congregational Church of Attleboro, Massachusetts. 

a distinguished officer in the Revolutionary War, was also a Mayor of New 
York City. 

The first actual settlement within the bounds of the original town of Attleboro 
was in the neighborhood of the Baptist meeting-house and was begun by John 
Woodcock and his sons soon after the first division of lands. In May, 1676, while 
his sons were at work in a cornfield near the house, they were surprised by Indians, 
and one son, Nathaniel, was killed. 

Attleboro was incorporated as a township October 19, 1694, but the first town 
meeting on record appears to have been held in 1696 at which time John 
Woodcock and John Rogers were chosen to manage the affairs of the township, 
other names identified with the early history of the town being Daniel Sheppison, 
John Callendar, John Lane, George Robinson, David Freeman, Anthony Sprague 
and Daniel Jenks. 

One Thomas Doggett came to this country from Attleborough, England, and 
he is supposed to be a brother of John, the first ancestor in this country of the 
Daggetts (the present way of spelling the family name) of Massachusetts and 
Connecticut. This John Doggett came over in Winthrop's fleet in 1630. Another 
early settler who came from Attleborough, England, was John Sutton, whose 
daughter Anne became the wife of John Doggett. Thomas Mayhew, who 
was listed as "a merchant," was born in Southampton, England, and was also 



ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS 47 

one of the early settlers of Attleboro. That the Daggett family still takes an 
important part in the activities of the city is shown by the fact that Mrs. 
Homer Daggett, wife of a direct descendant of John Doggett, ran for election as 
Mayor in 1920. 

The jewelry industry, now the most important in the city, had its commence- 
ment in 1780 when a Frenchman, who was called "the foreigner," very likely be- 
cause his real name was too difficult of pronunciation, began to make jewelry. 
The first shop erected expressly for the manufacture of jewelry, the forerunner of 
over one hundred concerns of today, was that of Col. Obed Robinson. His partners 
were Otis Robinson and Milton Barrows, the latter being the great-grandfather of 
those now carrying on the business of H. F. Barrows Company. Other men 
prominent in estabhshing this industry were Freeman, Bates, Simmons, Dean, 
BUss, Sturdy, Whitney and Richards. 

Attleboro became a city in 1914, Hon. Harold E. Sweet being the first Mayor. 

The original post-office is still in e.xistence and is located in the drawing- 
room of the Holman homestead on Pleasant Street. The "post-office" was 
merely an old-fashioned table into the drawer of which the stage-coach driver 
of long ago hastily dropped the town's letters. The residents walked to the 
homestead or drove to the door and made their waj- to the "post-office room" 
unheeded. There were no clerks nor locks and each caller sorted the mail in 
search of his own. 

The most tragic encounter of the whole Indian War, Pierce's Fight, took 
place in old Attleboro. Sixty Plymouth colonists were surprised and almost 
annihilated on March 26, 1676, and later the same day the remainder were 
massacred at the spot, a few miles distant, called to the present time "Nine 
Men's Misery." 

The first religious meetings on record date back to 1704 and the first minister 
called was in 1707. The First Church of Christ, Congregational, of Attleboro, is 
still active at Oldtown, and the present pastor, Rev. John Whitehill, who is in his 
fifty-third year of service there, was born at Paisley, Scotland, August 11, 1833, 
coming to this country when a child. 

There have been no official letters or visits exchanged between the English town 
and its namesake in Massachusetts but there is now in the Second Congregational 
Church, Attleboro, a stone which once formed a capital in St. Mary's Church, 
Attleborough, England. This was obtained at the instigation of the late Major 
Everett S. Horton, who was very much interested in the erection of the new Second 
Congregational Church. He conceived the idea of having Mr. Louis J. Lamb, 
who was about to start on a trip to England, obtain some sort of memento in the 
old town to have a place in the new building, which was then under construction 
in Attleboro, Massachusetts. Mr. Lamb readily pledged hearty co-operation and 
a copy of the letter regarding the finding of this stone now hangs in the ladies' 



48 



ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS 



parlor of the Second Congrega- 
tional Church and is interesting 
enough to be repeated here: — 

"Royal Hotel 

Attleborouch, Norfolk, England 
August 2 2d, 1902 

Mr. Everett S. Horton, 
Attleboro, Mass. U.S.A. 

My dear Major: 

Have had your commission to 
find you a stone in Attleborough, 
England, in mind ever since leaving 
home in May and as soon as we ar- 
rived here today made inquiries for a 
builder and were introduced to Mr. 
John Harrison, leading contractor 
and builder in this vicinity. We 
told him our errand — that we wanted 
to secure if possible a stone in some 
way identified with the Old Parish 
Church or other pubUc building in 
town to be placed in a new church 
now building in Attleboro, Mass., 
U.S.A. He was immediately inter- 
ested and said 'A few years since 
while I was employed in making some 
repairs on the old church, it became 
necessary to clear out a lot of refuse 
stone and other material which had 
been left under a portion of the 
church at the time it was ''restored" 
about one hundred years ago. There 
was one piece so shapely and well 
adapted to the purpose that I saved 
it and took it home to make a base or pedestal for my flower vase in front garden and 
I should think it would answer your purpose.' 

We went to his house and viewed the stone and I assure you it did not take long to 
secure it and arrange for its shipment to you via Cunard Line from Liverpwol to Boston 
and you should receive it about the middle of September. 

We had found just what we wanted — a good shaped, fair sized stone and withal with 
a history — for the Old Parish Church is said to be about 600 years old and as the stone 
gives evidence that it has been cut and fashioned something after the style of a capital 
for a column, it is probable that it was originally part of the ornamental architecture of 
the building. We believe you and the 'White Church' friends will be pleased with it. 

Attleborough, England, is very unlike its younger namesake in Massachusetts but it 
is a quiet, thrifty little English village with three public houses, Post-Telegraph and 
Telephone office. Railway Station, several stores and the usual adjuncts of a trading centre 
in rural England. The inhabitants and the homes give evidence that no extreme poverty 
prevails and the few people whom we have met are very cordial and interested to hear 




From a photogrupk 



Kmdnrsi Rr.\ J. Lee Milchrll. I'll. I)., and Mri. 
Ifalur M. KtndaU 



SECOND CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, ATTLE- 
BORO, MASSACHUSETTS, 

in which there is a stone from St. Mary's Church, Attle- 
borough, England, which was obtained through the efforts 
of the late Major Everett S. Horton. 



ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS 



49 




from a photograph 



Kindntjs Rev. J. Lee Mitchell, 
Ph.D., and Mrs. IValler M. Kendall 



about the other Attleboro beyond the sea. I 
know you would enjoy a visit here. Will tell 
you more about it on our return. 

With cordial remembrances of our entire 
party, 

Yours very truly, 

Loms J. Lamb." 

It is interesting to record that this letter is 
framed in a piece of wood which came from 
England as part of the crate around the 
stone. The stone now occupies a niche at 
the right of the entrance of the Second Con- 
gregational Church, bearing the following 
inscription: — 

COURTESY OF 

MR. JOHN HARRISON, 

ATTLEBOROUGH, NORFOLK, ENGLAND 

MR. L. J. LAMB, 

ATTLEBOROUGH, MASSACHUSETTS, U.S.A. 

PRESENTED BY MAJOR E. S. HORTON 

In writing about this Attleboro church, 
it is amusing to note that in 1868 a clock 
which struck every five minutes was installed 
in the vestry, the purpose of this being, 
apparently, to discourage any long speeches. 

The late Major Horton exchanged many gifts with Mrs. John Harrison of Attle- 
borough, England (wife of the gentleman mentioned in Mr. Lamb's letter, who 
pro\-ided the stone sent to Attleboro, Massachusetts), sending her pictures of the 
Massachusetts city and articles of jewelry for the manufacture of which our 
Attleboro is justly famous, receiving pieces of crockery which had been in the 
Slade family of Attleborough, England, for many years, also a sampler and a quilt 
made by a woman of that town who had reached the age of one hundred and four 
years. 

The Angle Tree Stone which was erected at the time of the settlement of a long 
controversy in regard to the Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay Colonies' boimdary 
line between Attleboro, Dorchester, Stoughton, Norton, Easton and Wrentham 
is of historic interest to visitors. 

On January 4, 1921, the Attleboro Community Fellowship, which takes a very 
active interest in the affairs of the Massachusetts city, passed a set of resolutions 
to encourage the interchange of correspondence between citizens of their city and 
Attleborough, England. The reasons given in the preamble for favoring these 
resolutions were that history may and should be made humanly interesting and 
helpful; that this is a time W'hen New England towns are making considerable 



STONE IN SECOND CONGREGATIONAL 

CHURCH, ATTLEBORO, 

MASSACHUSETTS, 

formerly a capital in St. Mary's Church, 
Attleborough, England. 



50 ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS 

study of their Old World pioneer inheritances, and as the history of the American 
Attleboro connects at the beginning with Attleborough, England, it is fitting that 
communications be exchanged in order to add to the proud fund of historic data 
already collected. 

The town of Attleborough, England, lies in the southern part of County Nor- 
folk, and is a pleasant Httle place situated in the midst of a level bit of country, 
its most important feature being St. Mary's Church, which was built centuries 
ago and which contains some very interesting architectural features, the window 
tracery being extremely beautiful. Attleborough shared with other towns of the 
county a custom which allowed any person out of a home to seek refuge in the 
church porch until other lodgings could be found, showing that housing conditions 
in the early days sometimes resembled the present condition in New England. 
In legendary history, St. Edmund, King of East Anglia, is said to have gone to 
Attleborough and remained there an entire year, engaged in the pious duty of 
committing the psalter to memory. Although surpassed in commercial pursuits 
by its Massachusetts namesake, the town of Attleborough still has a charm of its 
own which the younger place can never hope to attain. 



BIDDEFORD, MAINE 

A MEMORIAL tablet has been placed at Winter Harbour, now known as 
/\ Biddeford Pool, near the mouth of the Saco River, on the spot where the 
jL \- well-known English explorer Captain Richard Vines and his adventurous 
crew of sixteen spent the winter of 1616-17, even before the settlement of PljTnouth. 
After landing they proceeded about eight miles up the Saco River which carried 
them to the Great Falls, as they called them, which now furnish power to the cotton 
mills of the Pepperell Manufacturing Company and the York Manufacturing Com- 
pany, both well known throughout the world, also to several other thri\ing 
industries of Biddeford, including the Saco-Lowell machine shops which have sent 
to many foreign countries the most modern mill equipment. Vines and his men 
returned to England in the year 1617 with favorable reports and continued to make 
voyages to this country for a number of years, transporting colonists, so that as 
early as the year 1620 there were a number of families, including that of Richard 
Vines, in this very early Maine settlement. For his services this explorer received 
from Sir Ferdinando Gorges a grant of all the land within the present limits of 
Biddeford, the original deed, dated February 12, 1629, being now in the possession 
of the Maine Historical Society. 

Two earlier English explorers of this territory were Martin Pring, mentioned 
in Part I, and Captain George Weymouth who, two years later, in 1605, took 



BIDDEFORD, MAINE 



51 



i 



^ 



Ifc'^: 




possession of these lands in the 
name of King James I. 

Biddeford, Maine, probably 
owes its name to John Parker and 
others who came from Bideford, 
England, about the time of the 
town meeting, November 14, 
1 7 18, when the settlement on the 
west side of the Saco River was 
set off from Saco, on the east 
side, under the name of Biddeford, 
the name being spelled, it will be 
noticed, differently from that of 
the mother town. 

The First Congregational 
Church of Biddeford, Maine, was 
formed in 1730, and it is a tradi- 
tion among some of the older 
residents of Biddeford that the 
good people of Bideford, Eng- 
land, gave the Maine town a 
church bell which arrived in Bos- 
ton, whereupon it is supposed to 
have passed into the hands of a 
Boston church for the reason that 
the Biddeford parish was at that 
time too poor to pay freight on 
it. Some believe it was a chan- 
deUer instead of a bell which thus 
went astray. 

The EngUsh Bideford, mean- 
ing "by the ford," like Biddeford, 
Maine, is on a river near the sea, 
with a long bridge uniting the 
two parts of the town similar to 
the bridge between Biddeford 
and Saco. Visitors from Bidde- 
ford, Maine, to Bideford, Eng- 
land, also discover that both have a St. Mary's Church. The English town is 
now much the smaller of the two places, not having grown like its namesake. 
Bideford, which received the right to hold a market in 127 1 and was made a free 




From a photograph 



Kindness Walter //. Bradley. Esq., and 
Burton H. Winsloio, Esq. 



MEMORIAL TABLET AT WINTER HARBOUR, NOW 
BIDDEFORD POOL, MAINE, 

near mouth of the Saco River, where Captain Richard 
Vines, the English explorer, and his adventurous crew of 
sixteen spent the winter of 1616-17. Vines received a grant 
of the lands within the present Hmits of Biddeford. 
The words on the Tablet read as follows : — 

Richard Vines, agent of Sir Ferdinando 
Gorges, to experience and report upon the 
Climate of New England; visits the Indians in 
their huts, and passes the winter of 1616 at the 
present Leighton's Point, territory of 
Biddeford, while his ship lay in the nearby 
"Winter Harbor" until spring. 



52 



BIDDEFORD, MAINE 




from " Thr tl'e^t Coait of England," Pictorial Guide, Second Edition Kmdnesi li'alter K. ff'aikinj, Enj. 

BIDEFORD, ENGLAND 
Biddeford, Maine, is named fur this town. 

borough in 1573, is a seaport and market-town in Devonshire, England, on the 
banks of the river Torridge. In the sixteenth century Sir Richard Grenville did 
much to stimulate the commercial trade of Bideford with America. 



BRAINTREE, MASSACHUSETTS 

BRAINTREE, first called Mt. Wollaston, formerly included Quincy and 
Randolph and is one of the oldest communities in the State. The first 
settlement was made on Black's Creek as early as 1625, when Captain 
Wollaston and thirty of his followers came over from England and started a plan- 
tation here, and a tablet has recently been presented by the Quincy Chapter of the 
Daughters of the American Revolution to mark the establishment of this early 
trading-post. It is believed some of these settlers came from Braintree, England, 
and therefore gave the town its present name. The colony was a failure owing to 
the intrigues of Thomas Morton of Clifford's Inn, London, who became notorious 
on account of his gay May Day festival held at Ma-re-mount, of which much has 



BRAINTREE, MASSACHUSETTS 



53 



'v^^! 





CAfTAW WniLASTON M 1826 
CSrABLISKEO TR4DINC POSTS ON 

THIS SHORE. From him wollaston 

DERIVED ITS NAME. 



tHECTM n 

A8I0AIL PHILLIPS quiNCY Chapter 

Dauohters of the 

American revolution 

1920. 




.T?*:^'. ^ 



been written. What we generally 
understand to be the "Braintree 
Company" that came from Eng- 
land to our Braintree was a group 
of people including James 01m- 
stedd, J. Talcott and a Dr. Good- 
wyn who came over some years 
later, in 1632, in the ship "Lyon" 
under the auspices of Thomas 
Hooker of Chelmsford, and who 
settled in our Cambridge. Some 
confusion has therefore arisen as 
to these two groups of pioneers. 
The town of Braintree, at first 
often spelled Braintry, was really 
not permanently settled until 1634, 
when a number of people came 
over here from the counties of 
Devonshire, Lincolnshire and 
Essex. The town was incorporated 
in 1640 and comprised the land 
now included within the bounds 
of Quincy, Braintree, Randolph 

and Holbrook, the business center being at Quincy. Among those to whom early 
grants were given were Coddington, Wilson, Quincy, Hutchinson and Wheelwright. 
Joseph Loomys, or Lummys, who came from Braintree, England, was another 
early settler. He was a woolen merchant and the founder of the American branch 
of this family, the name now being spelled Loomis. Quincy was formed into a 
separate township in 1792, and is known the world over as having been the New 
England home of two Presidents of the United States. 

The first attempt to estabhsh an industry at Braintree was made in 1643 when 
Governor Winthrop brought over some workmen to start there the manufacture 
of iron, among the newcomers being Lionel Copeley from York County, Nicholas 
Bond and others. Lynn, however, began this industry before Braintree and was 
evidently more successful if we may judge from the words of one writer who said 
that in the latter town they "pounded out less iron than they hammered out law 
suits." 

It may be interesting to mention that Captain John Smith on his map gave 
Quincy the name of London; and the figures of a castle and cathedral were annexed 
as showing the prosperity and grandeur to which he believed the town would attain. 

There is also a Braintree in Vermont. 



Kindttfu of thf Boston Post 

TABLET PLACED BY THE QUINCY CHAPTER OF 
THE DAUGHTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVO- 
LUTION, IN QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS, 

once part of Braintree, where Captain WoUaston in 1625 
first established a trading post at Black's Creek. From 
him WoUaston, near Quincy and Braintree, received its 
name. 




z^ 



(3 

Zx3 



S 

^ 



< 

o 

to 

W 

< 
Pi 
n 



BRAINTREE, MASSACHUSETTS 55 

The English town of Braintree in Essex County was once called "Branchetreu," 
a Saxon name meaning "town near a river," and was once the seat of the Bishops 
of London. It bears evidence of having existed for generations. The earliest 
part of the town was located on the banks of Pods Brook in the vicinity of what 
is now known as Skitt's Hill; as the settlement expanded and the Romans built 
their great roads, the population shifted toward the intersection of the two great 
Roman highways. The annals of Braintree are rich in names that have become 
famous not only in Britain but throughout the world; among these are John Ray, 
the naturalist; Benjamin Allen, surgeon; Sir William Tilbury, who, though once 
a boot-boy in a shop near the Square, became tutor of the children of the Em- 
peror of Brazil; and Samuel Dale, author. Braintree's taverns also have been a 
subject of considerable interest, and there are still left a number of them to tell of 
the coaching days long past; one of the most famous is "The George Inn," the 
sign of which stretched over the entire width of New Street. This town, with 
Colchester, Dedham and several others, was called one of the "clothing towns" 
of England on account of the fact that the woolen cloth weavers carried on their 
business there. Toward the end of the eighteenth century hard times overtook 
Braintree and in 1804 appeared these lines: — 

"We saw two large townships called Braintree and Bocking 
Where the tale of distress was of late years most shocking." 

Silk mills, however, were erected there some years later, and both towns then 
began to prosper. 

Little Square is perhaps the most typical part of old Braintree, which contains 
also many attractive and quaint streets. The parish church of St. Michael dates 
back to 1 199. 



BRIDGEWATER, MASSACHUSETTS 

ON the roll of Mayors and members of Parliament of the town of Bridge- 
water in Somersetshire, England, are found the names of Allen, Bryant, 
Hooper and Mitchell, and because these names are familiar in the annals 
of Bridgewater, Massachusetts, it is supposed that it was so called for English 
Bridgewater in honour of that lovely village from which staunch Puritans emigrated 
to American shores. The town of Bridgewater, Massachusetts, was incorporated 
in 1656 and at first included territory now comprised by Brockton (formerly North 
Bridgewater), East Bridgewater, West Bridgewater and parts of the towns of 
Abington and Hanson. The land was originally a part of what was known as 
"Duxbury New Plantation," which Miles Standish and others in 1645 had received 
permission from the Old Colony Government to purchase from the Indians. Soon 
after the purchase, some of the Duxbury proprietors, of whom there were in all 



56 



BRIDGEWATER, MASSACHUSETTS 




Photographed by Valentine &• Co., Dundee. Scotland 

BRIDGEWATER, ENGLAXD 



Kindness Ian Forbfs-Rohfrtson, Esq. 



fifty-four, became settlers here, and among the first to be associated with them was 
Deacon Samuel Edson, of Salem, the owner of their first mill, who became a pro- 
prietor and settled with the Duxbury men near the Town River, where Tavern 
Bridge crosses it. "And," continues the chronicler, "because this was the richest 
land in the whole region, some of the Duxbury people who had taken shares in the 
purchase settled near him, about the same time, on scattered farms from below 
the present village of West Bridgewater gradually extending up the river to within 
a mile of the head of it in Lake Xippenicket. One of the first of these was John 
Howard, whose house was the first tavern — for more than a centurj' the only tavern 
— in the region ; and for a long time the bridge nearby was the only bridge over the 
river. This was, therefore, the center to which all the primitive paths converged — 
one from the Massachusetts Bay towns on the north, known as 'the Bay path;' 
two others to the southeast along the river on opposite sides of it, through the 
wilderness which is now Bridgewater, on the way to Plymouth; and others through 
the woods north and south of Lake Nippenicket to Taunton on the southwest, 
where the first settlers went to trade and carried grist on foot." 

The Duxbury settlers, who in 1651 to 1656 founded what is now West Bridge- 
water, in 1662 to 1665 settled the land covered by the present Bridgewater, and 
among the early farms were those of the Leonards, Washburns and Edsons. Until 



BRIDGEWATER, MASSACHUSETTS 57 

1822 the town meetings were held in West Bridgewater and for more than half a 
century the church services were conducted in the same place. 

The English seaport of Bridgewater lies in a romantic and historic part of Somer- 
setshire where tales of King Alfred are still told, and where, sLx miles distant, the 
noble Saxon king in 878 took refuge from the Danes encamped near the town. 
This county, according to tradition, also witnessed King Arthur's desperate 
encounters with the Saxon hordes who invaded Britain and who were met by 
this famous king in that great battle in the West. The town itself grew up 
around the ford, which appears to have been the only one across the river Parret, 
as all roads led to it. "The ford," says the historian, "gave the name of Brugie, 
or bridge, to the village in Saxon times. When William the Conqueror, after the 
year 1066, parcelled England with his Norman barons, Brugie and the vicinity were 
given to a Baron Walter and the place began to be known as Brugie- Walter, or 
Walter's Bridge, which finally became Bridgewater." 

In 1649 when Miles Standish and others purchased the "Duxbury New Plan- 
tation" in America, the mother town was one of the most important places in 
southwestern England and in that year Cromwell's army attacked the town and 
castle which surrendered with sixteen hundred officers and men. Portions of the 
old walls of the town and castle were standing until a century past. Two hundred 
years after Cromwell assaulted and conquered Bridgewater and after Miles Stan- 
dish had made his valuable purchase of New England territory, representative citizens 
of Bridgewater, England, sent a letter dated September 10, 1846, to the town of 
Bridgewater, Massachusetts. Correspondence ensued which made it apparent 
that the English town presented to Parliament the first petition against the slave- 
trade, with successful results. In these letters appeared names common to both 
towns. Certain books and maps were sent to England with a letter from our 
Bridgewater which was drafted by Rev. Paul Couch and Hon. Jesse Perkins of North 
Bridgewater, Rev. Darius Forbes and Hon. John E. Howard of West Bridgewater, 
Rev. Baalis Sanford and Rev. Nathaniel Whitman of East Bridgewater and Rev. 
David Brigham and Rev. Claudius Bradford of Bridgewater. Hon. John Reed 
also served on the committee. There are Bridgewaters also in Maine, New Hamp- 
shire, Vermont and Connecticut. 




:ir. CK/un ritH \! BDlSHTOn '!!!! CHAPJVCTr,K> 



Photographed by George H. Brayton from a very old print by G. Atkinson 

BRIGHTON, ENGLAND, 
showing in the distance the Chain Pier. 



1 

Otcned by Allan Forbes 




From d ;Jv'l ',-T^ph 



A RECENT VIEW OK BRIGHTON, ENGLAND 



59 

BRIGHTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

THE ancestors of several of the first settlers of Brighton, Massachusetts, came 
from the vicinity of the EngUsh Brighton, called in early days Bristelmestune, 
Bruyton and later Brighthelmstone, named from Brighthelm, an Anglo- 
Saxon bishop of the tenth century. It is fair, therefore, to suppose that our Brighton, 
incorporated in 1807 and now a part of Boston, was named for the fashionable 
•watering place in England frequented by King Edward VII, Queen Victoria and many 
other royal persons, as well as by legions of "trippers" during the summer season. 
The Royal Pavilion, built by King George IV as a maritime residence when he 
was Prince of Wales, is imdoubtedly the most interesting feature of the town and 
cost such a fabulous sum that Byron wrote about it the following couplet: — 

"Shut up — no, not the King, but the Pavilion, 
Or else 'twill cost us all another million." 

This building is no longer a residence but is used for various purposes. Part of it 
serves as a museum and among other interesting objects therein is a collection of 
pottery decorated with American subjects, such as "The Landing of the Fathers 
at Plymouth," "Landing of Roger Williams at Providence," bust of George Wash- 
ington, etc. 

Four miles from Brighton is the pretty village of Rottingdean where Rudyard 
KipUng Hved for some time. 

Our Brighton was set apart from Cambridge in 1779, the committee appointed 
to wait on the Honourable General Court with the petition being Samuel WilUs 
Pomeroy, Gorham Parsons, Stephen and Thomas Dana and Daniel Bowen. 

There is also a Brighton in Maine and one in Vermont. 



COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 

"And to-day, as we look o'er that village. 
Named for the one 'cross the sea. 
It seems to extend hearty welcome 
To you, from old Coventry." 

(The above is part of the last verse written by Ruth ,\melia Higgins on the occasion of the 
two hundredth anni\-ersarj' of the founding of Coventr\'. Connecticut.) 

A LTHOUGH a small town, Coventry has had such close relations with 
/\ Coventry in England, that it should be included in this book. Pre- 
^ X. vious to this two hundredth anniversary celebration, William L. Higgins, 
who has always shown a great interest in old Coventry across the water, and who 
was President of the Coventr>' Town Committee, sent the foUowmg letter to the 
Mayor of Coventry, England: — 



6o COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 

"Coventry, Conn. U.S. 
July 6, igi2. 

To THE Honourable Mayor, Coventry, England. 
Dear Sir: — 

We are about to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the founding of this town, which 
according to tradition, was named after Coventry in England. In view of the fact that 
the first settlers in this town of Coventry were either EngUshmen or of Enghsh descent, 
some of whom, or their ancestors, may have come from your English city, or from its 
vicinity, it is very probable that in selecting a name for this place, as in the establish- 
ment of laws and customs, their minds reverted to the mother country and to the town 
and surroundings from whence they came. We, therefore, accept the tradition as true 
and feel that some communication either in person or by letter from you would be most 
welcome to the people of this town, and very appropriate to the occasion. On behalf of 
this town of Coventry we therefore extend to you a cordial invitation to be present as a 
representative of your city at the celebrations of our anniversary, which will take place 
during the last week in August, 1912, known as 'Old Home Week.' In case you cannot 
be here, and are unable to send a representative, it will give us great pleasure to receive 
some kind of acknowledgment or communication from you as a memorial of Coventry 
in England. 

Respectfully yours, 

William L. Higgins, President Toum Committee 
Curtis Dean, Secretary Town Committee " 

We are also going to quote the reply in order to show the great interest taken by the 

old town in its namesake : — 

"The Charterhouse, Coventry 
July 30, 1912. 
To 

Wiluam L. Higgins, Esq., M.D. 
President of Town Committee, 
South Coventry, Conn. U.S.A. 
Dear Sir: — 

I was much interested to receive your letter of July 6th inviting me to the celebration 
of the 200th anni\'ersary of the founding of your town and I only regret that I am unable 
to accept your kind invitation, but unfortunately all my days are practically taken up 
and mapped out up to the end of my term of office, November ist, next. 

I see no reason to doubt that the original founders of your town were connected with 
our city as its citizens have always been capable of adapting themselves to the needs of 
the age, as witnessed by their adoption of comparatively new industries such as the 
bicycle and motor trades, after the shrinkage in the old watch and ribbon trades intro- 
duced by the Huguenots, and this spirit of originality no doubt prompted some of our 
ancestors 200 years ago to seek their fortunes in the New World, and to name their town 
in memory of their old home. 

At any rate there is a strong feeling among us that we have brothers and sisters in 
America, and I shall with pleasure make known to our citizens the reception of the kind 
wishes and sentiments of the New Coventry over the water, which are heartily reciprocated 
and I trust that your Town may prosper in the same way as this ancient city has done. 

I am sending you a few photographs of some of the beauty spots of our ancient city, 
and believe me 

With cordial greetings, 

Yours very truly, 

W. F. WvLEY, Mayor 0/ Coventry " 



COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 



6i 




From a print dated 1704 owned by Allan Forbes 



Formerly in the collection of J. H. Seers, Essex, England 



COVENTRY, ENGLAND 



This correspondence was followed by the following resolution passed by the citizens 

of the Connecticut town at the regular town meeting held on the 7 th of October, 

1912: — 

"Resolved, That, We, citizens of the Town of Coventry in town meeting assembled 
do hereby send to Coventry, England, Greeting: that we express to its Mayor and City 
Council our hearty appreciation of and thanks for the kind reception which our bi-cen- 
tennial message received from them, and also for the numerous books, pictures, papers 
and other tokens of their interest and regard sent to us in return ; that we sincerely recipro- 
cate the kind wishes and sentiments expressed in Mayor Wyley's letter to us, and that we 
shall ever hold Coventry across the sea in affectionate remembrance and regard and 
rejoice in her prosperity. 

Attest. 

John S. Champlin, Town Clerk " 

This celebration and the correspondence that ensued created a great deal of interest 
in old Coventry, which, by the way, is sometimes referred to as the "town of the 
three spires," and an account of the proceedings was printed in the Coventry Herald 
in the English to\vn. Many friendly letters were also received by our Coventry, 
which included a very impressive letter from an English workman describing his 
pleasure at the interchange of friendly messages between the two towns. These 
letters including the article in the Coventry Herald, together with a number of 



62 



COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 



books, pictures and presents, sent 
from the ancient city, are prized 
very highly by the town com- 
mittee of our Coventry. Still 
another eWdence of the friendship 
between the two countries was 
shown on this occasion of the 
anniversary of the Connecticut 
town, when ribbons from 
Stephen's Factory in the English 
town were worn as badges by the 
citizens of our town. 

Some years ago Dean Beau- 
mont of Coventry, England, 
visited New Haven and while 
there recalled the fact that their 
first Governor was Theophilus 
Eaton, who was the son of an 
early vicar of Holy Trinity. 
Coventr>% England, and that the 
first pastor of the New Haven 
church was John Davenport, the 
son of a former Mayor of the 
English Coventry. Davenport 
with some friends visited Quin- 
nipiac, the old Indian name for 
New Haven, and founded a colony 
there in the year 1638. Both had been students at the Coventry Grammar School. 
Canon Beaumont at one time was able to save an historic building in New Haven, 
whereupon he was made a corresponding member of its Historical Society. While 
a guest of the town, Beaumont was received with much courtesy by Professor 
Dexter of Yale University, whose \vife was a descendant of Davenport, and who 
had several times visited the old town in search of historical information respecting 
the founders of her city. 

There are at least five Coventrys in America, four of which are situated in 
Connecticut, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island and Vermont, the Connecticut Coventry 
being incorporated in 171 2. The early petition to the Court gave a list 
of six families most of whom are said to have come from Hartford, Connecticut, 
and Northampton, Massachusetts. One of the interesting objects in connection 
with the early history of the Connecticut Coventry was the will of the Indian 
sachem "Joshua," which is preserv^ed in the State Library at Hartford. The 




Photographed hy Ernest IV. AppUby Kindness Ian Forbes -Robertson, Esq. 

THE D.WENPORT HOUSE, COVENTRY, 
ENGLAND 

The home of the ancestors of John Davenport, who was one 
of the founders of New Haven, Connecticut, and first pastor 
of the church there. 



COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 



63 



redskin made careful provisions for 
his children and their bringing 
up, recording his wishes in these 
words : — 

"Further my Will is that my 
Children be brought up the first four 
years with Trusty and their mother to 
teach them Enghsh . . . and at the 
expiration of the said four Years I 
desire that my Children may be kept 
at the Enghsh Schoole." 

He especially desired that they 
should be kept apart from the Con- 
necticut Indians, and made the 
further request that he be buried 
at "Saybrook in a Coffin after the 
English manner." 

The town is best known as the 
birthplace and home of Nathan 
Hale who was shot as a spy in the 
Revolutionary War, his last words, 
"My only regret is that I have but 
one life to lose for my country," 
being known the world over. A 
beautiful monument has been set 
up to his memory in the Nathan 

Hale Cemetery in Coventry, other memorials also having been erected in 
the east corridor of the State Capitol, Hartford, Connecticut, on the front 
lawn of the Wadsworth Athenaeum, Hartford, Connecticut, in City Hall Park, 
New York, and on the Yale Campus, New Haven. The town of this name 
in Vermont was named for the Connecticut town in honour of Major 
Elias Buel, whose father. Captain Peter Buel, was one of the first settlers in 
the latter place. 

To the reader the English Coventry, of course, suggests Lady Godiva and the 
"Peeping Tom" incident. Tradition has been heaped upon tradition until 
the story has assumed large proportions and today in the English town there 
is an effigy of the curious one — who was a tailor — in the wall of the King's Head 
Hotel on Hertford Street. For his rashness, according to Tennyson, — 

"His eyes, before they had their will 
Were shrivell'd into darkness in his head, 
And dropped before him." 




Photographed by Erneit ff. AppUby Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertsonj Esq. 

EFFIGY OF PEEPING TOM, KING'S HEAD HOTEL, 
COVENTRY, ENGLAND 



64 COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 

It must be remembered, however, that Lady Godiva was a real person, the wife of 
Leofric, mother of ^Ifgar, Earl of East Anglia, and that her remains were buried 
in the monastery at Coventry. 

The town itself has been the scene of many charming stories and a modern 
chronicler well described its place in British history in these words: "It is a topi- 
cally EngUsh city, whose history might serve as the ' abstract and brief chronicles ' 
of the time. A thoroughly corrupt borough in the worst days of municipal cor- 
ruption, rigidly Puritan under the Stuarts, loyal under Elizabeth, steady for hered- 
itary right at Mary's accession — but Protestant, as witness its martyrs — Lollard 
in the heyday of Lollardry, patriotic and tolerant throughout the Hundred Years' 
War — as England was, so was Coventry. In art and letters, also, the city recalls 
what is most characteristic in the achievements of the English people. Here 
flourished mediaeval architecture, an art wherein Englishmen have excelled greatly; 
. . . while chance and the sojourn of George Eliot, have given the city associations 
with the literary outburst of the Victorian time." 

A part of the old wall begun in 1356 still remains; it is recorded that Charles I 
made a breach in this wall in 1642 and that some years later another breach was 
ordered by Charles II in revenge for the repulsing of his father's forces. Many 
have believed that the famous Mother Shipton foretold the final destruction of 
this wall when she prophesied that a pigeon should pull it down, which turned out 
to be true, for the walls were eventually taken down during the Mayoralty of 
Thomas Pigeon. 

There are many old landmarks in Coventry and among other attractive feat- 
ures are "the three tall spires" shown in the cut, which lend a dignity to the view as 
one approaches the city. One of these spires is that of St. Michael's, said to be one 
of the finest specimens of the florid or perpendicular style of architecture in England. 

Coventry is the center of many industries such as woolens, hosiery, textiles, 
watches, iron and brass foundries, printing, motor and cycle manufacturing. It is 
well described by Michael Drayton, Poet Laureate in 1626, in these hnes: — 

"Now flourishing with fanes [temples] and proud pyramides [spires] 
Her walls in good repair, her ports [gates] so bravely built, 
Her halls in good estate, her cross so richly gilt 
As scorning all the Towns that stand within her view." 

In ancient documents the town was called Coventree, sometimes Coventria, 

both names probably being derived from a convent established there in the 

seventh century of which St. Osburg was the Abbess. WTien Queen Elizabeth 

visited Coventry, the Mayor is supposed to have received his Sovereign with these 

words: — 

"We men of Coventree 
Are very glad to see 
Your Gracious Majestic. 
Good Lord, how fair ye be!" 



COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 65 

To which the Queen is said to have replied: — 

"Our gracious Majestic 
Is very glad to see 
Ye men of Coventree. 
Good lack, what fools are ye!" 

In St. Michael's Cathedral is the burial-place of Ann Sewell, wife of WiUiam 
Sewell, who is an ancestor of many of the family of this name in New England. 
The famous Mrs. Siddons was married in Holy Trinity Church. John Davenport 
was born in Coventry in 15 17 and his house is still standing. The town quite re- 
cently commemorated the centenary of George Eliot. 



DOVER, MASSACHUSETTS 

FORTY-FOUR American and Colonial Dovers, including the Maine and 
Massachusetts Dovers and possibly the New Hampshire Dover, were rep- 
resented at the great pageant held in Dover, England, in 1908. The chorus 
sang the following two verses, one expressing the pleasure of Dover, England, in 
receiving so many of her offspring, the other being an ode to the famous English 
port: — 

"And ye that hearken the while we sing, 
Look up, and behold a wondrous thing! 
For these her daughters from oversea. 
That follow in Dover's company. 
Forty and four 
The wide world o'er, 
And mothers of mighty sons to be — 
These from the ends of the earth who came. 
Share her honour, and bear her name — 
With home-felt rapture around her throng. 
And thrill to the close of her triumph-song!" 

"Oh, fair and majestic haven, couched under the seaclififs white, 
That title upon thee graven, Invicta, was thine of right. 
For one with the waves thy glory, and one with the winds thy might, 
And the web of thine endless storj' is woven by day and night, 
Of ocean's infinite yearning, criss-crossed with the to-and-fro 
Of a thousand keels returning, a thousand that outward go! 
From the frowning towers above thee, to the fringing foam below 
To think of thee is to love thee, as all that have known thee know." 

The scene of this pageant must have been very inspiring, for nearby was the historic 
Dover Castle, shown in the cut on the next page, and also Shakespeare Cliff, which 
was chosen by Shakespeare for his famous scene between Edgar and Gloucester in 
"King Lear." A monument is to be raised on the CUffs to the men who fell during 







^ 



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o 
O 



c4 

la 



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Z 

< 

o 

a 

as" 

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o 
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DOVER, MASSACHUSETTS 



67 




From a print in the collfrlion of Carltton A. Shaw, Eiq. Kindnia Carlrlon A. Shnu; Esq.. and Arthur I,, t uUrr, /■, </. 

EMBARKATION OF HENRY VIII AT DOVER IN 1520 

The original of this picture hangs in the Royal Apartments at Windsor Castle. It can be seen that even 
in those days Dover ranlied high among the important ports of the world. 

the Great War while serving in the splendid "Dover Patrol," whose duties were 
shared by many Americans. A similar monoHth will be erected near Cape Blanc Nez 
in France and also on some government land overlooking New York Harbour, the cost 
of the latter having been defrayed by subscriptions to the Dover Patrol Memorial 
Fund Committee, the presentation of which was made on April 21, 1920, to our 
Secretary of War by Major Evelyn Wrench, Hon. Secretary of the London Branch 
of the English-Speaking Union. The memorial will testify to the spirit of co-opera- 
tion which existed between the x\merican and British navies during the late war. 
Most of the travelers to Dover in the past have thought first of all of the channel 
passage, whether it was to be rough or smooth, but it is inevitable that tourists 
should in the future take more interest in this town, which is a prosperous port, 
an important garrison town, a naval depot, a popular watering place and a busy 
commercial center, with a population of about forty-two thousand. It is only 
twenty-two miles to France, and on a clear day the coast is clearly discernible, as 
Wordsworth described in these words: — 

"And saw, while sea was calm and air was clear. 
The coast of France! the coast of France how near!" 

It was from Dover that the first successful start was made to cross the Channel in 
a balloon, on January 7, 1785, and in this port on July 25, 1909, landed M. Bleriot, 
the first to cross these waters in a monoplane. 

Dover, situated in County Kent on the river Dour, is one of the historic Cinque 
Ports, and furnished five ships which helped considerably in defeating the Armada. 



68 



DOVER, MASSACHUSETTS 




Photographed by The f'ieiv 5- Portrait Supply Co., is. Lisle St., Leicester Sq,^ JV, 

DOVER CASTLE, DOVER, ENGLAND 



Kindness Ian Forbei-Robfrtson, Eiq. 



The Massachusetts town has taken a great deal of interest in the English Dover 
and, about the year 1845, oificially appointed the Rev. Dr. Sanger in town meeting 
to write a suitable reply to a letter of greeting sent from this channel port, but as 
the subject did not appear in the Town Warrant, there is no record of this interest- 
ing event. Again in 1898, when the Dover First Parish celebrated the one hun- 
dred and fiftieth anniversary of its organization, fitting reference was made to the 
mother town. In 1918, H. J. Taylor, Esq., of Dover, England, a member of the 
British American Fellowship Committee, sent Dover an invitation to have any of 
its men serving in the war vasit the EngHsh seaport and so far as possible notices 
were sent to all Dover boys informing them of this in\itation. 

In 1920 various publications giving the history of Dover were sent to the mother 
town and were acknowledged for the corporation by the town clerk, Reginald E. 
Knocker, Esq. In e.xchange, the Dover, Massachusetts, Public Library received 
"Annals of Dover" by J. Bavington Jones; "Dover and the Great War;" and 
"Dover, England's Gate" by Walter Emden, late Mayor of Dover, all volumes 
being highly prized by the Ubrary. 

Dover, Massachusetts, was incorporated as the Springfield Parish of Dedham 
in 1748, as the District of Dover in 1784 and as the town of Dover in 1836. 

There is also a Dover in Vermont. 



69 



EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 

THE beginnings of Exeter, New Hampshire, date back to the year 1638 when 
Rev. John Wheelwright, being denied by the Massachusetts Bay Colony 
freedom in religious matters and having incurred the displeasure of the 
authorities, was banished from the Colony in 1637. With a small band of follow- 
ers and companions he turned to the North and was given by the Indian sagamore 
and his son, by deeds dated 1638 which are still preserved, title to a tract of land 
about the Falls of the Squamscott. The name of Exeter was given to this settle- 
ment in honour of Godfrey Dear- 
born of Exeter, England, who had 
accompanied Rev. Mr. Wheel- 
wright in his exile. There is on 
record an estimate of the prowess 
of Rev. Mr. Wheelwright on the 
football field, written by OHver 
Cromwell who often played 
against him while they were fel- 
low-students at Cambridge Uni- 
versity, and who declared later 
that he used to be more afraid of 
meeting Wheelwright at football 
than he had been since of meeting 
an army in the field. After grad- 
uation Wheelwright took holy 
orders and later became allied 
with the Puritan movement and 
was silenced for non-conformity. 
In 1636 he landed in Boston and 
soon after became pastor of a new 
church gathered at Mt. Wollas- 
ton, now Quincy. After faUing 
under the ban of the Massachu- 
setts Bay Colony and settling in 
this New Hampshire territory, 
now Exeter, one of the first deeds 
accomplished was the founding 
of a church which still remains 
the Town Church. Rev. Samuel 
Dudley, son of Governor Thomas 




from a photograph Kindness Edmund S. Boyer, Esq., and Joseph S. 

Ford, Esq. 

REPLICA OF THE COAT OF ARMS OF EXETER, 

ENGLAND, IN THE ADMINISTRATION BUILDING 

OF PHILLIPS-EXETER ACADEMY, EXETER, NEW 

HAMPSHIRE, 

procured by Joseph S. Ford, Esq., at the suggestion of the 
President of the Board of Trustees of the Academy, S. 
Sidney Smith, Esq. The present was sent in 1915 by A. 
Wheaton, Esq., of the English E.\eter, and with it came a 
copy of the e.xemphfication of the coat of arms gi\'en by 
Queen Ehzabeth, dated August 6, 1564, the town being 
spelled Exccter at that time. The building in which it is 
placed is shown in the accompanpng cut. 




from " I.tje (it txri^r" Kindness Edmund S. Boyer, Esq., and fhittip'-h.xeUr .-icademy 

ADMINISTRATION BUILDING OF PHILLIPS-EXETER ACADEMY, EXETER, NEW 

HAMPSHIRE, 
in which there is a reproduction of the coat of arms of Exeter, England, shown in another illustration. 




From "32 PhotographU Vim-s </ S.-;.;.! /'-' -;," C ;,'. ,./ _ ; . . ; . 1 Kindness W^ 

EXETER CATHEDRAL, EXETER, ENGLAND 



EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



71 




From " The lift 1 



.'" Pictorial Guide— Second Edition 

THE EXE BRIDGE, EXETER, ENGLAND 



Kindness JValler K, It'atkins, Eiq. 



Dudley, a native of England, was pastor of this church for thirty-three years. 
Another man who added to the fame of Exeter was John Phillips, who, bom in 
Andover, Massachusetts, moved to Exeter in 1741. He taught for a time, then 
engaged in trade in which he was very successful. He gave liberally to the cause 
of education, contributing to Dartmouth College and, joining with his brother, 
Samuel, founded PhilUps-Andover. He later founded and organized Phillips- 
Exeter Academy in 1783, remaining for twelve years as its head. Daniel Web- 
ster, Edward Everett and General Lewis Cass (who was born in Exeter in a house 
which is still standing) are three well-known graduates of this Academy. The 
Oilman, Ladd, French and Folsom families are others who have done much for 
the development of the town from its earliest days down to the present time. 
William H. Folsom who pitched the first curved ball for Harvard University was a 
native of Exeter. 

In 1915, through the efforts of Mr. Joseph S. Ford, at the suggestion of the Presi- 
dent of the Board of Trustees of the Academy, S. Sidney Smith, Esq., of New York 
City, a replica of the City Arms of Exeter, England, was sent to the New Hampshire 
town by Mr. A. Wheaton, book publisher in the English Exeter. This now hangs 
in the Administration Building of Phillips-Exeter Academy. An exemplification 
of the coat of arms, as granted by Queen Elizabeth, dated August 6, 1564, and 
verified as a copy by Mr. H. Lloyd Parry, Town Clerk, was sent from England 
as descriptive of the replica and is now preserved in the Library of the Academy. 
At the time the original document was written the manner of spelling the name of 
the town in England was "Exceter." 

E.xeter, England, is situated in the county of Devon, on the river Exe, which 
plainly shows whence came its name. This old English town is famous for the 
number of sieges it sustained as the chief j)iace in the southwest of England. In 
early times it was called Caer Isc by the Britons, while later the Romans called it 



72 EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 

Isca Damnoniorum. On an eminence near one of the railway stations may be seen 
the ruins of Rougemont Castle, built by William the Conqueror, which was so 
named for the colour of the rock on which it was built. Exeter's principal edifice 
is the cathedral, begun in iioo, which is famed for the beauty of its design and 
the richness of its decorations. In the chapter-house of the cathedral is preser\-ed, 
among other valuable ancient manuscripts, Leofric's famous book of Saxon poetry. 
The city has some shipping trade, communication with the sea being furnished 
by the ship-canal originally cut in the reign of Elizabeth in 1564. This waterway 
is an interesting work, being the first one carried out in the United Kingdom for 
the purpose of enabling seagoing vessels to pass to an inland port. 



FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 

FRAMLINGHAM, England, which is spelled with an "1," is a small town 
near Ipswich as shown in a letter written in 1900 by Rev. J. Holme PiLking- 
ton, Rector of Framlingham, to Peter N. Everett, Esq., Secretary of the 
Bicentennial Committee of Framingham, Massachusetts: — 

"A remark in an Ipswich paper a week or two back, will, I think, give you a good 
idea of our present condition. It says 'Framlingham went to sleep in the time of Queen 
Elizabeth, and has not woke up yet. You may make as much noise as you like, you will 
never wake it now.' I am afraid there is much truth underlying the sarcasm." 

Another note written in 1900 describes Framlingham as a "small town of rather 
more than two thousand inhabitants. Though a small and (except locally) unim- 
portant place now, it has great and interesting historical associations and the im- 
posing ruins of Framhngham Castle testify to its ancient grandeur. I expect the 
American daughter has altogether eclipsed her English Mother." 

There have been a few interchanges of presents which have been sent chiefly 
by the Rector, as the town does not boast of a Mayor. The most interesting 
report, however, of the old town has been written by Mr. John M. Merriam and 
we believe we cannot do better than quote parts of his account of his visit to Fram- 
lingham, which he has kindly furnished for this article: — 

"It was an unusual pleasure which fell to our lot May 26, 1914, to visit the Town of 
FramUngham, in England, and it has been a continuing pleasure since our return to our 
home in Massachusetts to study, so far as we have been able, the history of this old 
Mother town. 

These two far distant Towns are connected through the life of Thomas Danforth. 
When the Pilgrims were endeavoring to preserve their frail settlement on these Massa- 
chusetts shores in 1622, a son was born to Nicholas Danforth in Framlingham, England. 
The father, Nicholas, was a man of position in his community, in England, being a Vestrv- 
nian in the established church. According to the custom of the church the son was bap- 
tised at the old Font in front of the Altar and this font is still in use, and the record of his 
baptism is preserved in the Parish records which can still be e.xamined in consecutive order 
from the century preceding his birth to the present time. The father moved from Eng- 



FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 



73 




-■..')!, Esg.. of Framuii:li.i'y:. Massachusetts 

IKAMLINGHAM CHURCH, FRAMLINGHAM, ENGLAND 

The Rector of this church, Rev. J. Hohne Pilkington, sent letters at the time of the Bicentennial 
celebration of the incorporation of Framingham, Massachusetts, in 1900. 

land in 1634. He had lost his wife in 1629 and he brought with him the sLx children 
she had left. He was among the early settlers of Cambridge. The son, Thomas, was 
destined for important service in this new land. . . . According to Governor Hutchinson, 
he had a 'great share in managing the public affairs in the most difficult times.' For 
his public service, and for money spent by him in the public interest, several grants of 
land were made to him which were known as 'Danforth Farms' and this territory was 
incorporated in 1700 as Framingham in remembrance of the town of his birth. Danforth 
had died in the preceding year, November 5, 1699. The name was in use before the incor- 
poration of the town and occurs in Danforth's own letters, spelled Framingham. Our Town 
Historian, Rev. Josiah H. Temple, gives a few references in our Colonial records in which 
the English spelling Framlingham was followed. I have found a further instance of 
this spelling in Cotton Mather's Diary, where he records, August 14, 17 18, 'Divisions and 
Confusions in the Church at Framlingham call for my best endeavors to bring them to 
a period.' This will suffice to show the connection historically of Framlingham, England, 
and Framingham, Mass. 

A branch railroad leaves the main line about eighty miles from London, and ends at 
the little Town of Framhngham, a township of some two thousand people in the northern 
part of Suffolk County near the line of Norfolk. 

. . . The oak seems to have flourished near Framlingham. Probably many of these 



74 FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 

giants of the forest went into the frigates and merchantmen which have carried the Eng- 
Hsh flag to all the seas of the world. One of these old giants was known as the ' Framling- 
ham Oak,' an account of which is given in the 'Library of Entertaining Knowledge.' 
This tree was used in the construction of the 'Royal Sovereign.' It yielded, so we read, 
four square beams, each one forty-four feet in length, the largest one of which was four 
feet nine inches square. These old English oaks were very dear to the English people, 
as some of their old songs abundantly prove. Listen to the words of the familiar song 
'Hearts of Oak.' 

'Hearts of oak are our ships. 

Jolly tars are our men. 

We always arc read}'. 

Steady boys, steady. 

We'll fight and we'll conquer 

Again and again.' 

'They swear they'll invade us, these terrible foes, 
They frighten our women, our children, our beaux, 
But should their flat bottoms in darkness get o'er 
StiU Britons they'll find to receive them on shore.' 

Let us now turn to the history of Framlingham. It is a town of great antiquity begin- 
ning possibly with the Roman occupation. The ruins of a castle of very considerable 
proportions crown the highest land, and with the old church nearby, are the principal 
objects of interest. This old Castle is among the prominent ones of early England. All 
it needs is the genius of another Scott to cast around it romantic interest similar to that 
of Kenilworth. This Castle was the home of perhaps the foremost family in England, 
the Howards, famous for many generations as the great House of Norfolk. It was this 
family which furnished Thomas Howard, the second Duke of Norfolk, the English leader 
of the battle resulting in the defeat of Scotland at Flodden Field. Closely connected with 
the same family were those unfortunate royal cousins, Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, 
wives of Henry VIII, who lost their heads at the command of their husband and king. 
Another Howard was their powerful uncle, Thomas the Duke of Norfolk, who was saved 
from death at the block by the death of the king himself the day before the time appointed 
for the execution. . . . The present representative of the Howard family in England is 
the Duke of Norfolk, often called the premier duke of England, as his title can be traced 
to the earliest sources of all present titles. 

Among the paintings of the last century is one of Frarrdingham Castle bearing date 
1828, by John Sell Cotman, .\.W.S. A friend recently gave to me a portfolio of copies 
of English oils and water colors, and in it I was delighted to find a copy of Cotman's paint- 
ing, which shows the castle as it stood eighty-six years ago. . . . 

The author, Richard Green, gives two possible sources of the name Framlingham; 
one from the Saxon words FriendUng and Ham — a stranger's home, or a habitation of 
strangers; and the other from the name of the stream Fromas. The name antedates the 
Domesday Book of William the Conqueror when it is written 'Framincham.' It became 
a family name in 1330 as there is record of John de Framlingham, a Rector of Kelsale, 
and in 1540 Henry VIII conferred a grant of land to Francis Framlingham, who held the 
same from Thomas Howard, third Duke of Norfolk, as ' Lord of the Manor of Framlingham 
ad Castrum.' 

In this history of Green's the Castle is called a 'pile of unknown antiquity.' An early 
description by Dr. Henr\' Sampson, the Rector of Framlingham in 1650-1660 is this: 
'Framlingham Castle is a very ancient structure, and said to have been built in the time 
of the Saxons. It was one of the principal seats of St. Edmund the King and Martyr. 
When he fled from Dunwich, being pursued by the pagan Danes, he took refuge in this 
Castle but being hard besieged, and having no hope of rescue, he fled from thence, and 



FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 



75 




From a prttit dated 1S13, owned by Allan Forbes Formerly in the collection of J. If. Srer', Essex, England 

FRAMLINGHAM CASTLE, SUFFOLK, ENGLAND 
Framingham, Massachusetts, is named for Framlingham, England. 

being overtaken by his enemies, was beheaded at Hoxon, from where long after his corpse 
was removed and reinterred at Bury, called since Bury St. Edmunds.' 

Dr. Henry Sampson gives the interesting description of Framlingham Castle. 'This 
castle was given by King Edward I to his second son, Thomas of Brotheron, Earl of 
Norfolk and Marshall of England, who repaired it, as appeareth by his arms in diverse 
places thereof.' 

But the chief interest in Framlingham Castle is in its association with Mary, who 
became Queen of England upon the death of her younger brother, Edward \T, in 1553. 
WTien he died Mary was at Hunsdon in the north of England, and the message came to 
her that her right to succeed was disputed and that she was destined for imprisonment 
in the Tower of London. She turned as a fugitive toward Kenninghall in Norfolk County, 
where at one time she had lived. . . . Kenninghall was unfortified, but only twenty miles 
away was Framlingham Castle, encircled with moats and completely fortified, and here 
she determined to make her stand as England's Queen. Directly Mary stood within the 
magnificent area formed by the circling towers of Framlingham Castle, she felt herself 
a sovereign; she immediately defied her enemies, by displaying her standard over the 
gate-tower, and assumed the title of queen-regent of England and Ireland. 

With the arrival of Queen Mary, Framlingham Castle became and remained for a 
few days the seat of Government. Mary appointed a privy council who came to her 
assistance at Framlingham and royal proclamations were issued from ihi^ Castle. . . . 
On the last day of July, Mary began her triumphal march from Framlingliam to London. 
The opposition to her succession to the throne had been overcome, influential leaders had 



76 FRAM INGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 

come to her support, an army had been placed at her command, ships sent to Yarmouth 
in order to besiege, the FramUngham Castle had surrendered upon her order, money had 
been supplied, and she had organized a Government. This event in the life of Queen 
Mary is thus summed up by the historian Knight; — 'Here Mary remained till the last 
day of July. She entered the gates of Framlingham after a hurried ride of secrecy and 
fear. She went forth surrounded with armed thousands in the state of a Queen.' . . . 

The old church at Framlingham, as well as the Castle, is of unusual interest; it is 
situated near the entrance to the castle. In this Church are the tombs of Henry Howard, 
Duke of Norfolk, and his son the Earl of Surrey. 

In the same corner of the Church is the tomb of Henry Fitzroy, the natural son of 
King Henry VIII, known in history as the Earl of Richmond. This King wrought speedy 
punishment upon his wives, Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard when slander impeach- 
ing their fidelity was brought to him, but he saw no wrong in his own association with 
Lady Elizabeth Talbois, resulting in the birth of this son in 1519. This boy lived only 
seventeen years, but before his death he married Mary Howard, the sister of the Earl of 
Surrey. This boy was not only acknowledged by his father, but had all the favor and 
training which could have been given him as the legitimate Prince. Froude states that 
he was 'a gallant high spirited boy,' that his 'beauty and noble promise' were at once 
'his father's misery and pride,' and adds 'if this boy had hved he would have been named 
to follow Edward VT in this succession and would have become King of England.' To 
what strange fancy are we led as we pause at the tomb of this boy in the Framlingham 
Church and conjecture how his life, had it been spared, might have changed the whole 
course of Enghsh history. 

But our most pleasant recollection of Framhngham centers around the Rectory occu- 
pied by the Rev. James Holme Pilkington. Our letter of introduction from Mr. Peter N. 
Everett in the name of the Selectmen of Framingham secured a very cordial welcome 
from the Rector and his wife. He recalled his correspondence with our Bicentennial 
Committee in iSgg and 1900, parts of which have already been quoted, and expressed an 
interest in our populous community, which in commercial prosperity has far outstripped 
the English town. We were made welcome in his home, learned from him something of 
the history of the Castle and of the Church, saw the old Parish register, partook of tea at 
his table, and walked about his beautiful grounds. It was a welcome many miles from 
home, and in a strange land, from one we had never met before, but it had the warmth 
and sincerity as from an old friend. The hospitahty of our host e.xpressed to us a bond 
of real kinship between the Enghsh Framlingham and the American Framingham." 

The English Rector in one of his letters to Mr. Everett wrote: — 

"I am sending by this post a packet containing the guide to Framlingham which I prom- 
ised, and also a small local Almanack containing a short retrospect of the past year, with 
three or four back numbers of our small local paper. Vou will see, as you doubtless al- 
ready know, that we are very much behind you in the matter of journalism. I am unable 
to send you a facsimile of our official seal, as Framhngham does not possess such a thing. 
We are under the rule of Parish Council, which are seal-less corporations." 

There is only one Framingham in the United States. 



77 



GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT 

THE town of Greenwich in the county of Kent, England, from which Green- 
wich, Connecticut, received its name, is celebrated as the home of many dis- 
tinguished individuals. Dr. Johnson lived there for a short time and liked 
the town, although he and his companion agreed that they liked London much 
better. He must have enjoyed the place a great deal, however, for he described it 
in the following lines: — 

"On Thames's banks in silent thought we stood. 
Where Greenwich smiles upon the silver flood; 
Pleased with the seat that gave Eliza birth. 
We kneel and kiss the consecrated earth." 
(Eliza refers to Queen Elizabeth.) 

Greenwich has been spoken of as the "marine residence" of the kings and 
reached its zenith at the time of Charles I. During the reign of Henry VIII many 
tilting tournaments were held there, the King himself being most skillful at this 
ancient sport. Besides excelling in tilting, he was also good at other games, for 
we are told that once on a visit to France he defeated a huge German in a combat 
^vith battle-axes, being beaten, however, by Francis I of France in wrestling. King 
Henry's brother-in-law, Charles Brandon, whose marriage took place at Greenwich 
in 1515, was also an expert at the tilts, and at one tournament held in France he 
won over all comers in a contest in which pointed spears were used. The following 
extract from a challenge issued in 1606 well expresses the romance and excitement 
attending one of these tournaments : — 

"To all honourable men at arrmes, and knights, adventurers of hereditarie note and 
exemplarie noblesse that for moste maintainable actions do wield eyther sword or lance in 
quest of glorie." 

At another meeting it is said that three hundred spears were "shivered" in one 
day's sport. 

Henry VIII was born in Greenwich and Hved there the greater part of his early 
life, in the gay days of the town. It was there that he resided after his marriage in 
1509 to Catherine of Aragon, with whom he lived happily for several years. While 
she was in the good graces of the king, Catherine took an active interest in the 
affairs of the nation. It is told of her that when business was dull in Bedfordshire, 
the center of the lace industry, she burned her lace, ordering more to be made, 
and, in recognition of this royal patronage, as late as the nineteenth century the 
lace makers kept "Cattcrn's Day" as a holiday of their craft. It was from Green- 
wich that this unfortunate wife had to depart in 1531 to give place to Anne Boleyn, 
and from that time on, the cruel career of King Henry is only too well known. 
Queen Elizabeth, who was a daughter of King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn, was 



78 



GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT 




From an old print Owned by Allan Forbes 

GREENWICH HOSPITAL, GREENWICH, LONDON, ENGLAND, 

NOW THE ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE 

Greenwich is now part of London. Many important events in England's history took place there. 

born at Greenwich and raised the village to the position of a town. It was during 
the reign of this queen that Drake circumnavigated the globe and after this event 
sailed up the Thames in front of her Greenwich Palace to receive honours from 
Queen Elizabeth, who dined on board Drake's vessel and knighted the famous 
explorer. 

The Royal Naval College is a feature second only in importance to the Ro}-al 
Observatory. Before being taken over for the present purpose, this splendid range 
of buildings was known as Greenwich Hospital, and it is interesting to know that its 
pensioners were benefited indirectly by the well-known pirate Captain Kidd, whose 
property was sold after his execution in London and £6472 therefrom given to the 
hospital. There is a "Nelson" room in this College, containing some fine paintings 
of that great seaman's victories. On the site of this building once stood the Royal 
Palace in which Henry VIII, Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth were born, and 
Edward VI died. 

Cardinal Wolsey lived in Greenwich and also the family of General Wolfe of 



GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT 79 

Canadian fame. It is from the meridian of Greenwich that geographers reckon 
longitude and from the Royal Observatory the hours are flashed to every part of 
England and Scotland by means of the "motor" clock which is one of the many 
extraordinary instruments of this institution. 

The connecting links between old Greenwich in England and new Greenwich in 
Connecticut were the two brothers John Mead and Joseph Mead, who were born 
in Greenwich, England, now part of Greater London, and who settled in that part 
of Greenwich, Connecticut, now called Sound Beach, formerly named Elizabeth's 
Neck in honour of Queen Elizabeth, and later Greenwich, to commemorate the birth- 
place of these two Meads. The two brothers were buried in the old cemetery in 
Sound Beach, having lived in that Connecticut town for the greater part of their 
lives, e.xcept during the time of the controversy between the English and the Dutch 
over the sovereignty of the settlement, when they temporarily moved to Hempstead, 
Long Island. 

John Mead made his first purchase of land in Greenwich in the year 1660 and 
from then to the present time this name has been one of the most important in the 
town. Eleven out of twenty-three subscribers towards the Greenwich Library 
were members of the ]\Iead family. The follo\ving storj' is told in Greenwich of 
this early settler: — 

One day when he was riding on horseback Mead overtook a man walking along 
the road with a heavy bundle and asked him whether he couldn't carry it for him. 
''No," was the reply, "you don't get my bundle, for I can read men's thoughts." 
This, of course, irritated Mead. In a short time they came to a river which had 
to be forded, whereupon the horseman offered to take the suspecting traveler over 
the stream on his horse; the offer was accepted, and ISIead, on reaching the deepest 
part, precipitated his passenger into the water, telling him it would teach him a good 
lesson. 

Joseph Mead, the brother, was one of the " Twxnty-seven Proprietors of 1672" 
of the Town of Greenwich; other important names were Peck, Lockwood, Reynolds, 
Close, Ferris and Palmer. 

Two other early settlers were George Hubbard and Robert Husted, both well- 
known names in our Greenwich. The former was probably born in Somerset, 
England, coming to this country about 1635 and buying land in the town in the 
year 1659; the latter sailed from England for Massachusetts in 1635, moving to 
Stamford, Connecticut, several years later. He was a witness in 1640 to the Indian 
deed to Greenwich, conveying part of the town to Robert Feaks and Captain Daniel 
Patrick, who landed at Greenwich Point as agents of the New Haven Colony for 
the purpose of acquiring that property at Greenwich. It may be interesting to 
mention that Peaks' wife was the widow of Henry Winthrop, son of Governor 
Winthrop of Massachusetts. These two men at once settled at Greenwich, where 
they died a few years later. 



8o GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT 

The early settlers had much trouble with the Indians, but finally made an 
agreement with the Dutch providing that their combined forces should be used in 
case of Indian attacks. 

The early town of Greenwich, or Old Town, as it was caUed, included the terri- 
tory between the Mianus River on the west and the town of Stamford on the east. 
The town soon spread westward beyond the river, this settlement being known in 
1669 by the curious name of Horseneck, so called because its shape was said to 
resemble a horse with his neck outstretched. This name was used until 1849, 
although the consolidation of the two towns took place in 1705. The patent for 
the town was granted only on the condition that an orthodox church should be 
maintained and the first church stood near the Greenwich Cove. 

In the year 1673 postal trips on horseback were inaugurated over the trail that 
was at first known as the Westchester Path, later called the Country Road, then 
the King's Highway, Post Road, Turnpike Road, and finally the Post Road again, 
by which name it is now known. The messenger allowed people to travel with 
him. A weekly packet service between Greenwich and New York was also es- 
tablished as early as 1696, to carry produce and passengers. 

No visitor should go to Greenwich without visiting the scene of General Israel 
Putnam's famous ride of the Revolutionary War. The centennial of this event 
was held at Greenwich on February 26, 1879, and on that occasion there were 
present as guests a great-grandson of Putnam and also a grandson of Thomas 
Merritt of Canada, the Tory who chased the General to the brow of the hill, down 
which he galloped his horse, "daring to lead where not one of many hundred foes 
dared to follow." 

The history of the nearby city of Stamford is closely connected with that of 
Greenwich, as the latter place was in the early days part of the former. 

There is also a Greenwich in Massachusetts. 



HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 

"Graceful in name and in thyself, our river 

None fairer saw in John Ward's pilgrim flock. 
Proof that upon their century-rooted stock 
The English roses bloom as fresh as e\'er. 

Take the warm welcome of new friends with thee, 
And listening to thy home's familiar chime 
Dream that thou hearest, with it keeping time, 

The bells on Mcrrimac sound across the sea. 

Think of our thrushes, when the lark sings clear. 
Of our sweet Mayflowers when the daisies bloom; 
And bear to our and thy ancestral home 

The kindly greeting of its children here. 



HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 



8i 



Say that our love survives the severing strain; 
That the New England, with the Old, holds fast 
The proud, fond memories of a common past; 

Unbroken still the ties of blood remain!" 

THE above lines were written by the poet John Greenleaf Whittier, at the 
time that Hon. Daniel Gurteen, Jr., Chairman of the Local Board of Ha- 
verhill, England, and his daughter, Miss Grace Gurteen, officially visited 
our city of Haverhill, in 1890, on 
its two htmdred and fiftieth anni- 
versary. Mr. Gurteen and his 
daughter called on Mr. Whittier 
at his home in Danvers and it 
was there that he wrote these 
impromptu lines, which he dedi- 
cated to the young English 
woman. The English Chairman 
in the following letter had been 
officially asked by the Mayor of 
Haverhill, Massachusetts, Hon. 
Thomas E. Burnham, to repre- 
sent his town at this celebra- 
tion : — 

"Mayor's Office, Haverhill, Mass. 
March 15, 1890. 

To THE Chairman of the Local 
Board, 

Haverhill, England. 
Sir:— 

In the year 1640, Rev. John 
Ward, born in Haverhill, England, 
penetrated with a small band of 
followers into what was then a 
wilderness, and formed a Uttle set- 
tlement on the banks of the jMerri- 
mac River, in what is now Essex 
County, Massachusetts. In honor 
of their devout pastor they named 
the settlement Haverhill for his 
home in England. . . . 

This year, on the second and 
third of July, we propose to have 
a celebration of the quarter-millen- 
nial anniversary of the settlement 
of our city, and recognizing the ties 
that bind us to your own ancient 
town, and feeling that it would 




From a photOf.raph Kindnfii Jnhn C. MoulU'n. E"J. 

ADDRESS FROM H.WERHILL, ENGLAND, TO 
HAVERHILL, MASS.VCHUSETTS, 

brought to this country by Hon. Daniel Gurteen, Jr., Chair- 
man of the Local Board of the English town, on the occasion 
of the two hundred and fiftieth annivers;iry of our town, in 
i8qo. It is now in the Haverhill (Massachusetts) Public 
Libra r\-. 

.\nothcr document sent by the English town twenty-five 
years later hangs in the Mayor's ofhce in the City Hall of our 
Haverhill. 



82 



HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 




Photographed by J. H. Godden Kindness Ian Forbes -Robert son, Esq. 

SHIELD SENT BY HAVERHILL, MASSACHU- 
SETTS, TO HAVERHILL, ENGLAND, IN 1890, 

where it now hangs in the Town Hall. It is made of 
wood from an old oak tree that grew on the place in 
Haverhill where Whittier was born. 



afford real pleasure not only to myself 
but to the people whom I have the 
honor to represent to have Old Haver- 
hill over the sea represented on that 
occasion, I take great pleasure in ex- 
tendinc; to you the freedom of the city 
during that event, and in inviting 
yourself and lady to be the guests of 
the city on that occasion. 

Hoping that >-ou will favor us with 
your presence, and that we shall receive 
an early acceptance of the formal invi- 
tation that will be forwarded to your 
Honor in a few days, 

I am yours truly, 

Thom.\s E. Burnham, 

Mayor of Haverhill, Mass. U.S.A." 

The Englishman brought with him 
the following congratulatory ad- 
dress, very attractively gotten up 
and signed by the town officers, 
ministers and citizens of his town; 
it is now in our Haverhill Public 
Library : — 

"To THE HONOITRABLE THE MaYOR, 

THE City Council and citizens 
OF Haverhill, Massachusetts, in 
the United States of America: 



We, the undersigned local authori- 
ties, i)ublic officers, and citizens of the 
ancient mother town of Haverhill, in the counties of Suffolk and Essex, in England, desire 
to convey to you our friendly greeting and hearty congratulation upon the celebration of 
the 250th anniversary of the settlement, in the year a.d. 1640, by John Ward, a native of 
this place, and others who accompanied him from the Old World to the New. We thank 
you for the opportunity of being represented on this auspicious occasion, not merely as 
an acknowledgment of the natural tie which exists between our respective communities, 
but also as a proof of the kindly spirit which prevails on your side towards us here. We 
assure you that your good will is most cordially reciprocated, and that we highly appre- 
ciate the kind invitation extended to us through our representative; and we trust that 
his visit may still further promote friendly relations of an abiding kind. We rejoice with 
you at the continued progress of your city, and earnestly hope that it is destined to enjoy 
still greater prosperity, so that its future may be even brighter than its past, and that it 
may steadily grow in everything conducive to the welfare of its citizens and the advance- 
ment of our common civilization. 

Dated this 27th day of May, iSgo." 

In recognition of the courtesy shown by the English town and in memory of the 
visit of Mr. Gurtcen and liis daughter, our citv of Haverhill sent to the English 



HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 



83 



town a medallion, a shield in 
the form of the coat of arms 
of the Commonwealth of Mas- 
sachusetts, carved in wood 
from an old oak tree that 
grew on the place in Haver- 
hill where Whittier was born, 
with the city seal in the center 
and smaller carved medallions 
in the comers. It now hangs 
in the Town Hall of the Eng- 
lish Haverhill. An album was 
also sent to Mr. Gurteen con- 
taining photographs of some 
of the prominent citizens of 
the Massachusetts city. Hon. 
William H. Moody, afterwards 
Secretary of the Navy, Attor- 
ney-General and Justice of 
the Supreme Court of the 
United States, was one of the 
Committee appointed to pre- 
sent these gifts. These presents 
were received with a great deal 
of ceremony at a large recep- 
tion held in the Town Hall 
and acknowledgment was sent 
to our city later. Details of 
these English proceedings and 
of the Haverhill celebration 
are given in "The Story of a 
New England Town" pub- 
lished in 1 89 1, which gives all 
the correspondence and an ac- 
count of Mr. Gurteen 's visit, 
with copies of articles from 
the papers of Haverhill, Eng- 
land. The Haverhill Public 
Library treasures several auto- 
graphed letters of Mr. Gurteen 
which were sent to residents 




From a photoi^Taph 



Kirjdnet; John C MouUon, Esq. 



MEMORIAL TABLET IN THE PARISH CHURCH, 
HAVERHILL, ENGLAND, 

erected to Rev. John Ward, grandfather of Rev. John Ward 
who was the first minister of Haverhill, Massachusetts. A 
drawing made from the original tablet is owned by the Haver- 
hill, Massachusetts, Public Library, and is loaned to the 
Haverhill Historical Society. The inscription is in the te.xt. 

Haverhill, Massachusetts, was so named in honour of Rev. 
John Ward, who, born in the town of the same name in Eng- 
land, settled on the banks of the Merrimac soon after 1640. 



84 HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 

of Haverhill, Massachusetts, in 1891 and 1892, and it also has received news- 
papers, books and other presents which have come across the ocean as gifts 
from the English Haverhill. On the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth 
anniversary, cables were interchanged between the two Haverhills and at the 
anniversary banquet an address was made by Hon. Leverett Saltonstall of 
Boston, a descendant of Richard Saltonstall, who was very active in the early 
days of our Haverhill and who was descended from Rev. John Ward, Nathaniel 
Saltonstall having married a daughter of John Ward. Whittier wrote a poem 
for the occasion which was read at the literary exercises, in which he alluded to 
old Haverhill, as follows: — 

"We see, their rude-built huts beside, 
Grave men and women an.xious-eyed, 
And wistful youth remembering still 
Dear homes in England's Haverhill." 

In 1915 when our Haverhill commemorated its two hundred and seventy-fifth 
anniversary, there was another exchange of greetings between the two Haverhills 
and at this time the English town sent a ver>' attractive document which has been 
framed and which now hangs in the Mayor's Ofhce, City Hall. Hon. Albert L. 
Bartlett was Mayor of our Haverhill at that time and wrote an account of old 
Haverhill in which we have found much of interest. The first part of the name is 
derived from the Anglo-Saxon "hoefer" meaning a "he-goat." In the old records 
the name is spelled "Haverell" or "HaverhuU." The town is situated partly in 
Essex County and partly in SufTolk County, about fifty-five miles northeast of 
London and not far from Cambridge, High Street which runs through the town 
being part of an old Roman road connecting Cambridge and Colchester. Into 
this settlement the Huguenot, or Flemish, exiles brought the art of weaving three 
hundred and more years ago and on their hand looms was first woven the coarse 
homespun cloth of linen and wool. From these humble beginnings, however, have 
grown the present mills, employing many hundreds of operatives. The town is 
partly a manufacturing and partly an agricultural center and withal a market 
town; its annals, although interesting, contain no events of national importance. 
Messrs. Gurteen and Sons are the leading manufacturers of the English town, 
employing in their textile plant more than half of the population of forty-five hun- 
dred persons living there. The Town Hall was built in 1883 by the late Daniel 
Gurteen to commemorate his golden wedding and it was in this hall that the gifts 
sent to Haverhill, England, in September, 1890, were exhibited. Unfortunately 
the early records of the town perished in the fire of 1665. 

In 1881 Rev. F. T. Ingalls, a native of Haverhill, Massachusetts, vi.sited the 
English Haverhill and wrote a letter describing the place, which was published in 
one of the newspapers of our city. 



HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 



8S 




From a photograph 



Kindness John G. Moulton, Esq. 



PARISH CHURCH, HAVERHILL, ENGLAND, 



in which the original tablet, shown in another illustration, has been placed in memory of Rev. John Ward, 
grandfather of Rev. John Ward, first minister of Haverhill, Massachusetts. This picture is in the HaverhiU 
Public Library, Haverhill, Massachusetts. 



The Indian name for the site of our city was "Pen tucket" and when it was 
settled in 1640 it was named Haverhill in honour of its first minister, Rev. John 
Ward, mentioned above, who was bom in Haverhill, England, in 1606, and who 
was the son of Rev. Nathaniel Ward, first minister of our Ipswich. The home 
of John Ward, afterwards owned by the Saltonstalls, and the first framed house 
in the town (now a city), is still preserved on the exact spot on which it was orig- 
inally built in the si.vteen hundred and forties, on the grounds of the Haverhill 
Historical Society. Over the mantel of the old house is a tablet which gives the 
history of the house and of the Saltonstall family and which also commemorates 
the fact that it was given to the Historical Society in memon,- of that family. In the 
Historical Society is a painting of the memorial tablet to John Ward's grandfather 
copied from the original in the Parish Church in Haverhill, England, the wording 
being as follows: — 



86 



HAVERHILL, AL\SSACHUSETTS 




From a phoVj^Td^h Kindness George Francis Dow, Es^. 

WITHERSFIELD ROAD, HAVERHILL, ENGLAND 

John Warde after he with great evidence & 
power of ye spirit & with much fruit preached 
ye gospel at Haveril & Bury in Sutf' 25 
yeares was heere gathered to his fathers 
Susan his widdowe married Richard Rogers 
that worthie Pastor of Wethersfielde. He 
left T, sonnes Samuel Nathaniel John preachers 
who for them & theirs wish no greater blessinge 
than yt they may continue in beleeveing 
and preaching the same Gospel till ye comming 
of Christ Come Lord Jesus come quicklye 



There is also a Haverhill in New Hampshire which took its name from Haver- 
hill, Massachusetts, for the reason that the first white persons who permanently 
occupied its territory came from that town about 1761. 



87 



HULL, MASSACHUSETTS 



HULL, Massachusetts, was undoubtedly named for Hull, England. It will 
be remembered that the passengers on the "Mary and John" were put 
ashore here at Nantasket Point, her captain leaving the "Godly families 
from Devonshire and Dorsetshire" to shift for themselves. Roger Clap later on 
took some of his shipmates up the river to Watertown. Among the first permanent 
settlers of our Hull was John Prince, an exile in Cromwell's day. 

Hull, England, officially known as Kingston-upon-Hull, is the third port of 
the United Kingdom, and was founded by King Edward I in 1296. From 1598 
to 1865 this seaport engaged in the whale fishery, and has the distinction of being 
the first port to dispatch to the fishing grounds a steam-whaler, which was called 
the Diana. 

This city has several features of historical interest, mainly connected with 
the struggle for civil and rehgious freedom in the seventeenth century. At the 
opening of the contest between Charles I and his parhament the King failed in his 
attempt to win over the city of York and, indeed, narrowly escaped capture. He 
fled in haste to Hull, confidently expecting its gates to open to him and to have 
there a base for further operations. A severe blow was dealt at the royaUst cause 
when the citizens stoutly refused entrance to him, closed the gates, and declared 
for the Parliament. 

James H, perhaps in revenge for his father's rebuff, took from the city its charter 
and everything else he could lay his hands on, just as he did from London, when 
the Lord Mayor of that City was so overcome that he fell upon his knees crying 
cynically, "Will your Alajesty please leave us the Thames? " This, like all James' 
arbitrary acts, was reversed when WiUiam of Orange ascended the throne with 
Queen Mary. 

It is not as widely known as it should be how closely Hull was associated with 
the Pilgrim Fathers. The earHest exiles for religious liberty were drav/n from 
Gainsborough and its neighborhood, little more than thirty miles from Hull. 
Their immediate objective was Holland, for which country there were two possible 
places of embarkation — Boston and the estuary of the Humber. In 1609 they 
made the attempt by Boston, were betrayed by a ship's captain, arrested and cast 
into prison. Being eventually hberated, they repeated the venture the following 
year, led by John Bradford, the future Governor, and Elder Brewster. This time 
they were, at least, partially successful. Their leaders escaped from a creek op- 
posite Hull and the rest followed later in separate groups, mostly from the same 
estuary. 

Amongst the most courageous and determined of the Pilgrims who twelve years 
later sailed from Dclfshaven were thosewho had come from the Gainsborough district. 

From Hull sailed the Rev. Ezekiel Rogers, Rector of the nearby village of 



88 



HULL, MASSACHUSETTS 




PhntoiTaphed by Turner 6* Drinkxvater 



Kmamris I m Forbes -Rohertson, Esq. 



mJLL, ENGLAND, 
showing Princes Dock. Hull is the third port of importance in the United Kingdom. 

Rowley, who is described under our article on that place. Along with Rogers 
sailed the greater portion of his congregation. William Penn also made Hull his 
port of departure. 

Andrew Marvell, patriot, wit and satirist as well as earnest Puritan, whose 
statue now occupies an honoured place in the city, was the son of a Puritan clergj'- 
man of Hull. He became Latin Secretary to Cromwell, along with John Milton, 
and represented Hull in Parliament from 1660 to the end of his life in 1678. 

In still later days Hull was the birthplace and home of William Wilberforce, 
whose name will ever be associated with the abolition of slavery in the British 
dominions. His residence, once the home of a Puritan Mayor of the city, is still 
preserved in its original state. It is now used as a museum and is full of deeply 
interesting mementos both of the slave trade and the city's history. Wilberforce's 
memorial — a lofty pillar on a massive pediment crowned with his statue — is in 
the very heart of the city. 

In prehistoric times the district embracing Hull was inhabited by a race of 
Celts called "Dolicho-Cephaloid," these Greek words merely meaning "Long- 
Heads," still a characteristic of Yorkshiremen. Then came the Brigantes, or high- 
landers, named in Juvenal as the most numerous and important of the British 
tribes, which were the last of the ancient Britons to submit to the Romans. 



HULL, MASSACHUSETTS 89 

At a meeting held in Hull, England, recently, a fund, the equivalent of about 
one hundred and fifty dollars, was raised for the erection of a monument at Killing- 
holme to commemorate the spot whence most of the Pilgrims left for Holland. 



IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 

" I love to think of old Ipswich town, 

Old Ipswich town in the East countree, 
Whence, on the tide, you can tloat down 

Through the long salt grass to the wailing sea, 
Where the ' Mayflower ' drifted off the bar. 

Sea-worn and weary, long years ago. 
And dared not enter, but sailed away 
Till she landed her boats in Plymouth Bay. 

I love to think of old Ipswich town; 

Where they shut up the witches until the day 
When they should be roasted so thoroughly brown. 

In Salem village, twelve miles away; 
They've moved it off for a stable now; 

But there are the holes where the stout jail stood. 
And at night, they say, that over the holes 
You can see the ghost of Goody Coles. 

I love to think of old Ipswich town; 

That house to your right, a rod or more. 
Where the stern old elm trees seem to frown 

If you peer too hard through the open door, 
Sheltered the regicide judges three 

When the royal sheriffs were after them, 
And a queer old villager once I met, 
Who says, in the cellar, they're living yet. 

I love to think of old Ipswich town; 

There's a graveyard up on the old High Street, 
Where ten generations are looking down 

On the one that is toiling at their feet; 
Where the stones stand shoulder to shoulder, Uke troops 

Drawn up to receive a cavalry charge. 
And graves have been dug in graves, till the sod 
Is the mould of good men gone to God." 

(The above are some of the verses of a poem written by James .•Vppleton Morgan, entitled "Ipswich 
Town.") 

THERE are probably few residents of Ipswich, Massachusetts, who are aware 
of the fact that the clock now in the Chapel of the First Church, marked 
"Moore, Ipswich," was a present sent by the English town from which Ips- 
wich got its name. It was sent over, together with some photographs of old Ipswich, 
by Sir Daniel Goddard of the Congregational Church of Ipswich, England, just 



90 



IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 



after the celebration of the two 
hundred and fiftieth anniversary 
of the incorporation of the Mas- 
sachusetts town held in 1884, and 
with it came a cable of congratu- 
lations given below. Sir Daniel 
Goddard, M.P., was a guest of 
the town, and only a short time 
ago Hon. WiUiam F. Paul, for- 
merly Mayor of old Ipswich, sent 
to the Historical Society of the 
Massachusetts town several vol- 
umes of illustrations of ancient 
buildings of his town and an 
elaborate portfolio containing a 
copy of the proclamation of King 
Edward VII. In return the new 
Ipswich sent a history of the 
town written by the late Rev. 
Thomas Franklin Waters, A.M., 
President of the Historical So- 
ciety. On the anniversary of 
the Massachusetts town, above 
referred to, in 1884, a letter was 
read from the Mayor of Ipswich, 
England, part of which is as 
follows : — 

"I regret it is not in my power to be 
present at the celebration of the two 
hundred and fiftieth anniversary of 
the incorporation of the town of 
Ipswich, Mass., as my mayoralty duties entirely prevent my being absent from home 
for any long period during my year of office. I should have returned thanks for old 
Ipswich among some of the descendants of those who emigrated from their native land 
in order that they might have freedom to carry out their political and religious opinions, 
which was denied them in England. . . . Wishing that your enterprising town may 
increase and prosper, and ever be celebrated for its civil and religious liberty. 

Yours faithfully, 

John May, Mayor of Ipsunch, England. 
To John Heard, Esq., of the Committee of .Arrangements." 

The following was the cable received from the Corporation of Ipswich, conveying 
congratulations: — 




Photographed by George G. Dexter, Ipswich, Massachusetts 
Kindness Francis R. Appleton, Esq., Joseph I. Norton, Esq. and the late 

T. franklin Waters 

CLOCK PRESENTED TO THE FIRST CHURCH 
OF IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS, 

by Sir Daniel Goddard of the Congregational Club of 
I[)swich, England, in 1884. 



IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 



91 




From an old pnnt 



Owned by Allan Forbes 



ST. MATTHEW'S GATE, IPSWICH, SUFFOLK, ENGLAND 



"Aug. is, 1884. 
The Corporation of Ipswich, England, send their hearty congratulations to the Corpora- 
tion of Ipswich, Mass., on the celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of 
their incorporation, and wish them continued prosperity. 

Mayor of Ipswich, England." 

This letter and cablegram were both read at the celebration, an answering cable 
being sent as follows: — 

"The town of Ipswich, celebrating its two hundred and fiftieth anniversary, sends thanks 
to Mother Ipswich for her kindly greeting and best wishes for her continued prosperity." 

The most recent \isitor from the English Ipswich was Rev. John A. Patten, 
minister of the Tacket Street Congregational Church, of which one of the congre- 
gation is Arthur Goddard, son of Sir Daniel, who has always taken such a great 
interest in the New England Ipswich. 

The English Ipswich was a great coaching center and the Bull Inn, Whitechapel, 
London, was one of the taverns at which the Ipswich coaches put up for the night. 
It was from there that IMr. Pickwick set out, who quotes Tony Weller as saying 
just before the coach left the courtyard, "Take care o' the archway, genTmcn." 
This Inn for a long time belonged to the Nelson family, which was a noted race of inn 
and coach proprietors, and at one time was managed by Mrs. Ann Nelson upon the 



92 



IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 




from a photograph by ff\ DotL-nes Kindness Ian Forbes-Robfrtson, Esq. 

GREAT WHITE HORSE HOTEL, IPSWICH, ENGLAND, 
of Pickwick fame. A model was sent to the Chicago Exposition. 

death of her husband. In her coaching speculations she was usually associated with 
a pastry cook who owned a little shop adjoining the gateway of the "Bull," and 
who often complained of being interrupted in his work when a new hand on one of 
the coaches sent the nose of one of his leaders through his shop window, the gate 
being very narrow and Mrs. Nelson's coachmen not being very deliberate. This 
woman coach proprietor was a martinet, and spared neither herself nor her servants, 
up to her seventieth year being the last up at night and the first up in the morning. 
Her team of "Ipswich Blues," as they were called, was famous even after an opposi- 
tion coach was started. The proprietress insisted on rigid punctuaUty, and if a 
coachman brought one of her crack coaches into the yard five minutes late, he 
received a severe reprimand; if he were ten minutes late, he was fined half a crown; 
and if he were one-quarter of an hour late, he stood a good chance of being dis- 
missed from service. Once when she was called into Court, the Chairman of the 
Bench said to her, "I understand that you give your coachmen instructions to race 
the rival coach." "Not exactly," she replied. "My orders to them are simply 
that they are to get the road and keep it." Towards the year 1830, there was a 
whisper of coming changes, and the coachmen and travelers talked in the stable- 



IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 93 

yard and in the cozy rooms of the "Bull" of men with strange instruments encount- 
ered along the road; "chaps with telescopes on three sticks and other chaps with 
chains and things measuring the fields." The Eastern Counties Railway was 
being projected to run from London to Colchester, Norwich and Yarmouth, and 
the days of the coaches were to be no longer. 

Ipswich is the front door of East Anglia, which means the eastern part of Eng- 
land. It was here that Daniel Defoe, the author of "Robinson Crusoe," stayed 
for a short time, mentioning that he found "very agreeable and improving com- 
pany almost of every kind." Here is the Great White Horse Tavern where Pick- 
wick accidentally encountered the elderly lady in the yellow curl-papers; his bed- 
room No. 36 is still preser\'ed, and although the Tavern has been much changed, 
over the entrance still stands the "white painted stone statue of some rampageous 
animal with flowing mane and tail, distantly resembUng an insane cart-horse." 
Dickens does not give a very favorable description of this Tavern, for he stated 
that 

"the Great White Horse is famous in the neighborhood in the same degree as a prize ox, 
or county paper-chronicled turnip or unwieldy pig — for its enormous size." 

This amusing account of the place, however, made it all the more popular. King 
George II \-isited this noted Tavern in 1736, as also did Louis XVIII, King of 
France, as he passed through the town. It may be interesting to Americans to 
know that a model of this building was exhibited at the Chicago World's Fair. 
The greatest treasure, however, possessed by Ipswich is "The Ancient House," in 
the Buttermarket, in which King Charles II sought refuge when he was flee- 
ing from the Parliamentary Army. Cardinal Wolsey was born in Ipswich, and 
connected with the town are the names of Clara Reeves; Gainsborough, the artist, 
who lived there for some time; also David Garrick, the actor, who made his debut 
there in 1740. The Duke of Buckingham, known as the "Great Duke," A-isited 
the town, which is really most attractive, but his account of it was not very inspir- 
ing, for he wrote that it "was a town without inhabitants, a river without water, 
streets without names, and where the asses wore boots." It used to be called 
Gippeswiche from the river Gipping and "Wick" meaning creek or haven for ships. 
Captain John Smith mentioned our Agawam as early as 1614, stating that 
Prince Charles changed its name to Southampton and this name actually appears 
on Smith's map. The first real historj' of our Ipswich, called on the seal of the 
town "Birthplace of American Independence," began in 1620 when we learn that 
some of the Pilgrim colony, before settUng here "urged greatly the going to Angoan, 
Anguum or Angoum, meaning 'Agawam' a place twenty leagues ofT to the north- 
ward which they heard to be an excellent harbour for ships, better ground and bet- 
ter fishing." Of course, in respect to the harbour they were very much mistaken. 
Ten years later a messenger was sent to Agawam with a message saying "a war- 




From a photograph by JV. Dowries Kindnas I^n Vurhc , 

THE ANCIENT HOUSE, IPSWICH, ENGLAND, 
in which King Charles II sought refuge when he was fleeing from the Parliamentarj' Army. It is one of 

the chief objects of interest in the town. 



IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 95 

rant shall be presently sent to Agawam for those planted there, to come away." 
Three years later we learn that the Court of Assistance ordered that a plantation 
be begun here as it was the best place in the land for tillage and cattle, lest an 
enemy finding it should take possession from them. John Winthrop, Jr., was 
instructed to undertake the settlement and it was suggested that twelve men 
should go with him to assist him. In 1634, Rev. Nathaniel Ward, the son of John 
Ward, of Ipswich, England, and his friends, came to the town and ordered the 
name changed to Ipswich, after the town of the same name in England, in honour 
of Ward and also "in acknowledgment of the great honour and kindness done to 
our people who took shipping there." The Court believed that the town was large 
enough to give up the Indian name. Another reason for the change in name was 
the resemblance of the approach to our Ipswich to the territory near old Ipswich 
on the river Orwell. 

Nathaniel Ward bore one of the best known names in the early history of New 
England, having been born in Haverhill, England, in 1570, where his father 
had been a clergyman. It is interesting also to mention that he was granted six 
hundred acres of land by the General Court in Haverhill in Massachusetts, then 
called "Pentucket," where his son was later a minister. He wrote several books, 
the best known being called "The Simple Cobler of Aggawam in America," which 
was meant to be a lesson to the early colonists and to accomplish his purpose he 
chose to write about the cobbler, describing him as 

"willing to mend his Native Country, lamentably tattoed, both in the upper leather and 
sole, with all the honest stitches he can take." 

Nathaniel Rogers, who was also born in Haverhill, England, was another promi- 
nent person in the early history of our Ipswich. The Rogers family held a place 
of great distinction both in this town and in the Colony, John Rogers, the son of 
Rev. Nathaniel Rogers, becoming President of Harvard College while the grandson 
of Rev. Nathaniel, also named John, was a minister at Ipswich. Therefore, grand- 
father and grandson between them held the pastorate of the Ipswich Church for 
seventy years. 

The Ipswich Historical Society has erected tablets in a small triangle in the 
South Common, in memory of Nathaniel Ward, Nathaniel Rogers and Richard 
Saltonstall, another early settler, and two of the inscriptions on the south side of 
the tablet, which stands in front of the South Church, read as follows: — 

ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE COMMON 

WAS THE HOUSE OF 

REV. NATHANIEL WARD 

1634 IHNISTER OF IPSWTCH 1 63 7 

AUTHOR OF 

"the simple COBLER OF AGGAW.\M " 

COMPILER OF 

THE BODY OF LIBERTIES 



96 



IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 




Photographed by GeorRf G. DfxUr Kindness Frandy H. .-IppUton, Esq.. 

and Jo.'ffh I. Unrton, Esq. 

TABLET ON THE SOUTH GREEN, IPSWICH. 

MASSACHUSETTS, 

placed there in memory of Ezekiel Cheever, first master of 
the Grammar School; also as a memorial of Rev. Nathaniel 
Ward's first house nearby, and also to commemorate the 
early houses of Richard Saltonstall and Rev. Nathaniel 
Rogers, both early settlers in this New England town. 



THE RESIDENCE OF 

RICHARD SALTONSTALL 

WAS ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE COMMON 

AND THAT OF 

REV. NATHANIEL ROGERS 

PASTOR OF IPSWICH CHURCH 

1638-1655 

WAS ON THE WEST SIDE 

The oldest house in the town, 
now known as the Burnham 
House, was built in 1640 by 
Thomas Hart of England, soon 
after his arrival in this country. 
Se\'eral of the old rooms are still 
in their original condition and 
afford much interest to the sight- 
seer who stops here. 

One of the streets of Ipswich 
which leads from the town to 
Castle Hill, the place originally 
granted to John Winlhrop, Jr., 
now ow-ned by Richard T. Crane 
of Chicago, is called "Argilla 
Road," after the estate in Eng- 
land owned by the Symonds 
family which settled here. The 
present High Street was once 
called Pudding Street, the 
origin of its name being told 
in a legendary poem written 
by J. K. F.:— 



"I can remember very well 
A tale the old folks used to tell. 
Of how a street, well known to fame, 
Received its somewhat curious name. 
The oven, then, so long ago, 
Was built outside the house, and so 
While the good wife was getting dinner, 
There came along a tramping sinner. 
Who, having not the fear of man. 
Opened the oven door and ran. 
The pudding had so much of heat, 
He quickly dropped it in the street, 



IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 97 

And fearing in that place to stay, 
Kicked it before him on his way. 
The pudding bag, so stout at first, 
By violence at last was burst, 
And ever since that wicked feat. 
The thoroughfare is Pudding Street." 

Another fact of interest to Americans and Britons alike is that the ancestors 
of the late Joseph H. Choate lived in Ipswich, Massachusetts, a member of the 
family still residing here near the town on Hog Island, often referred to as Choate 
Island, which is also owned by Richard T. Crane of Chicago. 

The town of Ipswich is responsible for the settlements of Chebacco, which when 
incorporated was called Essex; and Hamilton, which was first called "The Hamlet." 



LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

IN 1913 the mother town of Lancaster sent the following message of good wishes 
to her daughter on this side of the ocean: — 
"TO 
The Selectmen, Officials and Inhabitants of the Town of Lancaster, Mas- 
sachusetts. 

At a meeting of the Town Council of the Borough of Lancaster in the County of Lan- 
caster England held on Wednesday the 24th day of September 1913 the following resolu- 
tion was passed unanimously: — 

'That the Mayor, Aldermen and Burgesses of the Borough of Lancaster in Council 
assembled heartily reciprocated on behalf of the Burgesses and Inhabitants of this 
County Town the greetings so well expressed in the resolution of the daughter Town 
of Lancaster Massachusetts . . . and wish that all prosperity may in the future 
attend the Selectmen, Officials and Inhabitants of that Town.' 

The Common seal of the Corporation of 
Lancaster England was hereunto aflEixed 
in the presence of 
C. F. Seward, Mayor. " 

Some authorities claim that Edward Breck was the earUest settler in this 
Bay State town, but such is not the case, for this honour belongs to John Pres- 
cott, who was not only the earliest settler here but was also the founder of 
the town. Others interested in its early success were Thomas King, Harmon 
Garrett of Charlestown, Thomas Skidmore of Cambridge and Stephen Dave, 
who, it will be remembered, was the first printer in Cambridge. Prescott, how- 
ever, was the only one to take up his residence here. They expressed the wish 
that the town should be called "Prescott" in honour of John Prescott and later 
suggested it might be named "West Town." The people of Lancaster have 
remembered the founder of their town by a slate tablet near his grav-e in Old 
Burying Field which records in the words of the late Senator George F. Hoar: — 



98 



LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS 




Photographed from a print 

SOUTH VIEW OF THE GATEWAY 



Owned by Allan Forbes 

CASTLE, LANCASTER, 



TOWER OF LANCASTER 
ENGLAND 
The castle is the chief object of interest in Lancaster, being now used as a jail, 

Here 

with his children about him lies 

John Prescott 

founder of Lancaster and first settler 

of Worcester County 

born at Standish, Lancashire, England 

Died at Lancaster, Massachusetts, December, 1681. 

Inspired by the love of liberty and the fear of God 

this stout-hearted pioneer 

forsaking the pleasant vales of England 

took up his abode in the unbroken forest 

and encountered wild beast and savage 

to secure freedom 

for himself and his posterity. 

His faith and virtues 

have been inherited by many descendants 

who in every generation have well served the state 

in war, in literature, at the bar, in the pulpit, in pubhc life, 

and in Christian homes. 



LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



99 




^•^^ 



This tablet was set in place in 
time for the two hundred and 
fiftieth anniversary of Lancaster's 
incorporation, in 1903. In this 
cemetery are also the graves of 
Jonathan Fairbanks, formerly of 
Dedham, and his wife, who was 
Lydia Prescott, daughter of this 
first settler, their marriage being 
the first recorded within the limits 
of Lancaster. One year after 
the incorporation of the town 
came Rev. Joseph Rowlandson, 
then John Whiting, and later 
on, in 1793, Rev. Xathaniel 
Thayer, Edward Hamilton 
Sears and George M. Bartol, 
whose descendants have been 
prominent citizens of Massa- 
chusetts. 

There is also a Lancaster in 
New Hampshire. 

Tradition says that the Eng- 
lish Lancaster was once a Roman 
station and later was used as a 
fort by the Saxons. On a hill 
in the town stands Lancaster 
Church, and near its site Agri- 
cola more than two thousand 
years ago planned his second 
year's campaign in Britain and from there also he directed the march of his Roman 
legions. A thousand years later came Roger of Poictou, a Norman Baron, who 
recognized the military importance of the town and erected there a great keep. 
In later years the town for two centuries was the center of Norman chivalry; it 
was there, too, that John of Gaunt held his Court, which in pomp rivaled that of 
the King himself; it was from there also that many edicts of great importance were 
issued, and through its castle walls rode many a gallant herald carrying tidings of 
peace or war. In fact few towns can claim a greater connection with royalty 
than Lancaster. 

The Scots attacked the fortress of Lancaster innumerable times, and in 13 14, 
after the defeat of Edward II at Bannockburn, they burned the town and succeeded 



'■'-^FLWASra'ANOKimT'^rTl'- 

^ • ■■■'■'^IW.ENCLA^:D 




photographed by Janxes Macdonald 

PRESCOTT TABLET IN OLD BURYING-FIELU, 
LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS, 

in memory of John Prescott of Lancashire, England, founder 
of the New England Lancaster, and first settler of Worcester 
County. 



loo LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

in partially destroying the Castle. During the Wars of the Roses, it was alter- 
nately occupied by both parties and there not infrequently monarchs took refuge. 
At one period Court was held there, parts of the Castle being used as a prison. It 
was in 1715 that the prisoners of the Castle, climbing to the parapets, watched and 
cheered the Scottish Army as it captured the town. After a ceremony, during 
which the Stuart Pretender was proclaimed King, the soldiers dispersed to seek 
quarters, and a council was held that night to decide whether the prisoners at the 
Castle should be released. It was decided to set free those on the Crown side. 
On the following day the officers, after attending service at the Lancaster Church, 
"dressed and trimed themselves up in their best cloathes for to drink a dish of tea 
with the Ladys of this town." We are told that "the Ladys also here appeared 
in their best riging, and had their tea tables richly furnished for to entertain their 
new suitors." It is further related that the swains left the towm very reluctantly, 
as they did not wish to part with their new loves. The last hostile army to enter 
Lancaster was that of Bonnie Prince Charlie, known as the Young Pretender, who 
marched through the town on November 24, 1745. 



LINCOLN, MASSACHUSETTS 

HISTORY tells us that the part of England between the Wash and the 
river Humber, whence came the pioneers of our Lincoln, was wrested 
from the Britons and occupied by the tribe of Angs, or Angles, from 
which the word "England" is derived. "Lindum Coloniae" (or "Colonia") was 
the name given to Lincoln by the Romans, who while possessing it surrounded the 
place by strong walls and made it one of the chief seats of Roman power in that 
section of the island. During the Sa.xon period it was the capital of Mercia and in 
786 was subjected to assault by the Danes. Lincoln is one of the most important 
cities in England, so important, in fact, that at one time it rivaled London, as 
these lines show us: — 

"Lincoln was, London is, and York shall be, 
The greatest city of the three." 

It is situated on a hill, overlooking the lowlands of England's eastern coast, and 
the high towers of the cathedral are most impressive. The river Witham flows by 
the city on its way to Boston and at one time was noted for its fish, if we believe 
the following lines written about the river: — 

"Wytham eel and Ancum pike: 
In all the world there is no syke" (such). 

When Phillips Brooks visited Lincoln, England, he said, "Be proud of your City, 
and show your pride of her by seeking to become worthy of her." 



LINCOLN, MASSACHUSETTS 



lOI 




, ' tj Formerly in the collection of ]. II. Seer.<, £:.'e\. England 

LINCOLN, ENGLAND, FROM THE RIVER WITHAM 



In 1896 a band of Pilgrims from the United States, headed by the Rev. Dr. 
Dunning of our Boston, visited Lincoln, England (which claims John Robinson 
as its own), and other towns associated with the Pilgrim Church, being particularly 
impressed by the cathedral, which is the pride of Lincoln and which Ruskin claimed 
was the most precious piece of architecture in the British Isles. Work on this 
edifice was begun in 1075 by Bishop Remigius but was not completed until the 
fourteenth century. The burial at Lincoln of St. Hugh of Avalon, who was made 
bishop in 1186, was attended by two kings and many other notables of that day. 
It may be interesting to remind Americans that Tennyson, the poet, was bom 
near Lincoln and that a statue has been erected to his memory in the close of the 
cathedral. It is also noteworthy that there is a Bunker Hill about a mile from the city. 

Our Lincoln was not set apart as a town until 1754, when the Honourable 
Chambers Russell, whose ancestors had come from Lincolnshire, England, persuaded 
the legislature to call it Lincoln after the English city. Rev. William Lawrence, 
the first minister, John Hoar, Edward Flint, Stephen Weston and Benjamin Brown 
were very helpful to the Colony in the early days. Chambers Russell was honoured 
by being allowed to choose the first pew in the church. 

Edward Flint came over to Concord in 1636 with his family, and his will was 
the first one recorded in Middlesex County records, Cambridge. The family place 
on the Lexington road, we believe, has never gone out of the possession of a member 



I02 



LINCOLN, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a photograph by S. Smith, Lincom, L-ngiand Kindnfts Ian ForOfS'Kut.'frt.on, Esq. 

A VIEW ON CASTLE HILL, LINCOLN, ENGL.\ND 

of this family. Lincoln was often called in jest "Niptown" by the surrounding 
communities, which claimed that it was made up by "nipping off" the best parts 
of three or four other towns. 

There are also places by the name of Lincoln in Maine, New Hampshire. 
Rhode Island and Vermont. 



LONDONDERRY, NEW IL^MPSHIRE 

jL T the one himdred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of this New 

l_\ Hampshire town, Rev. Dr. William McClure of Londonderry, Ireland, 

jL Jk. was invited to attend the ceremony and the following reply was received 

by R. C. Mack, Esq., Secretary of the Celebration Committee: — 

,, , „. "Londonderry, Ireland, June 3, 1S69. 

My dear Sir: — 

I have been from home some time, attending the meetings of the General Assemblies 
in Edinburgh. This must be my apology for not writing to you sooner. However de- 
lightful it would be to be present at your one hundred and fiftieth anniversary, I must 



LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



103 




From a print daUd 1814 



AN IRISH JAUNTING CAR 



deny myself the pleasure. My occupations at home are so pressing and numerous that I 
cannot leave. The citizens of the parent Londonderry, in Ireland, will be greatly interested 
in your proceedings, and we trust everything will go on prosperously and well. I will be 
very glad to have, either by letter or newspaper, an account of the ceremonies. 

Very sincerely yours, 

WlLLI.^M McCniRE." 

Invitations were also sent to the Mayor and Aldermen of Londonderry, Ireland. 

In April, 17 19, sixteen Scotch-Irish families came over from the north of Ire- 
land and they were followed within a short time by many others, their reason for 
migrating to this country being to secure more religious liberty. It can, therefore, 
be said that they played the same part in Ireland that the Puritans did in Eng- 
land in relation to the new country. The newcomers spent their first winter in the 
harbour near Portland, Maine, where they suffered great hardship, as their vessel 
was frozen in the ice and it was difficult to procure supplies. When spring came, 
however, they wandered to the territory called by them "Londonderry" from the 
town of the same name in Ireland, so well known to them. The first thing they 
did was to purchase from John Wheelwright the title to these lands that had been 
purchased by his family from the Indians a long time before; it was in this way that 
they became possessors of this territory which was at that time called "Nutfield," 



LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE 105 

on account of its many chestnut-trees. The name Londonderry was given in 1722. 
The early days brought many hardships to these settlers. They were once at- 
tacked by an armed party in the hope of dispossessing them b>' force from the 
newly acquired property. At the time of this raid they were attending church 
services and it is said that the gallant Londonderry clergyman threw off his coat 
and ofifered to lead the attack should the enemy persist in trying to drive out the 
congregation. It is also said that the hrst minister, Rev. Mr. MacGregor, always 
carried his loaded gun into the pulpit and it is beUeved that this weapon is still 
in the possession of one of the citizens of the nearby city of Manchester, New 
Hampshire. 

It may be interesting to give the names of some of the distinguished families 
of our Londonderry. Among them were the Morrisons, MacGregors, McKeans. 
Duncans, Greggs, Bells, Pattersons and Dinsmores. It is also worthy of men- 
tion that the well-known Elias Hasket Derby, who was born in Salem in 1803, lived 
for some time in this town. 

Among the articles on exhibition at the time of the armiversary in 1869 were 
plates brought over from Ireland in 1720 by some of the early emigrants, who soon 
after leaving the Irish coast were captured by pirates. A daughter was born to 
one of these emigrants on board the pirate vessel and these plates came into her 
possession and at the time of the celebration belonged to one of her descendants. 
There was also a powder-horn used at the siege of Derry, in Ireland, which was 
brought over by Rev. Mr. MacGregor. These early emigrants are said to have 
introduced the potato into New England in 17 19. The people of Londonderry are 
also responsible for the settlement of a number of other towns in New Hampshire, 
New York, Michigan and Nova Scotia. Londonderry in Vermont, formerly called 
Kent, owes its name to the original settlers most of whom came from Londonderry, 
New Hampshire, and it can, therefore, be said that the town owes its name, indi- 
rectly, to the Irish city. 

The ancient city of Londonderry, the capital of County Londonderry, Ireland, 
is situated on the river Foyle, about ninety-five miles northwest of Belfast. It 
was formerly called Derry, — a name derived from Doire, meaning the "place of 
oaks." The city owes its origin to the monastery which was founded there by 
Columba in 545. Like all towns of the British Isles, Derry suffered by the inroads 
of the Danes and was burned more than once by these invaders, but they were 
finally e.xpcllcd by Murtagh O'Brian in the early part of the twelfth century. Its 
chief historic interest, however, centers around the "siege of Derry" in 1690, when 
the Irish Protestants successfully defended the town against the forces of James II. 
George Walker, the rector of Donaghmore, who with Major Baker had been chosen 
to govern the town, won lasting fame for himself by his bravery and hopefulness 
during this siege, and the famous reply of "no surrender" which was made to the 
enemy became the watchword of the men of Derry and has been accorded a place 



io6 LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE 

of honour in the annals of history. When the plucky garrison had almost reached 
its last extremity on the 30th of July, some ships broke through the obstruction 
across the harbour and brought relief to the sufTering town. King William, as a 
recognition of the importance of the work of the inhabitants of "Old Londonderry" 
in this memorable siege, caused an act to be passed whereby those who partici- 
pated in the defense of the city, bearing arms, were thereafter to be exempt from 
taxation throughout the British dominions. Some of the settlers of London- 
derry, New Hampshire, were entitled to such exemption and availed themselves 
of their right until the Revolution. On the Royal bastion from which the men of 
Derry defied the enemy stands a tall column bearing a statue of Walker, in com- 
memoration of the siege. The anniversary of the relief is still celebrated. 

The ancient rampart, with its gates and bastions, which surrounds a section of 
Londonderry, and a few ancient houses with high, pyramidal gables, give the town 
an atmosphere of antiquity in spite of its numerous modern features. The indus- 
tries carried on there include the manufacture of linen, shipbuilding, iron foun- 
dries and fisheries. It is interesting to recall that the Cathedral, completed in 
1633, was built by money subscribed from London. The town was a great port of 
emigration to the United States in the days before the transatlantic steamers came 
into operation, the emigrants sailing in "clippers" owned by Derry merchants. 

LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 

IT is interesting to notice that the first visitor to England, according to some 
writers, from the territory that is now called Lynn, was probably Monto- 
wampate, the Indian chieftain, who Hved here peacefully for some time with 
the new settlers, but, having been defrauded of twenty beaver skins by a trader 
in England, he journeyed to London in 1631, armed with a letter from Governor 
Winthrop to Emmanuel Downing of London. The redskin was received with 
much respect and was given the money for his furs, but not liking the English bill 
of fare, it is said that he returned to his native hunting ground to enjoy his clams 
and succotash. The first settlement in the town, which was called "Saugus" or 
"Saugust," was made nine years after the landing of the Pilgrims, and the first 
five men to whom is given the honour of making the settlement are Edmund and 
Francis Ingalls, William DLxey and John and William Wood. These pioneers were 
with Captain John Endicott's colony, which came to Salem in 162S and, as it has 
been expressed, "strayed over" to Lynn the following year. They set out, we are 
told, from Salem with leave to go "where we would" and having discovered "a 
faire playne" lying between Salem and Charlestown, called Saugus, they took 
"peaceable possession." The organized settlement did not take place, however, 
until two years later. Edmund Ingalls came from Lincolnshire, England, in 1629, 
and was drowned in 1648, when he and his horse fell through the old Saugus Bridge. 



Some of the names connected with 
the early history of Lynn were 
Breed, Newhall, Mansfield, Burrill, 
Hood, Alley, Lewis, Fuller, Baker, 
Dexter and Bassett. In 1636, Rev. 
Samuel Whiting, who has been 
called the "Father of L>-nn" and 
the "Angel of Lynn," was installed 
minister of the little church at 
Saugus. He was born in Boston, 
England, and was the son of Sir 
John Whiting, who was twice 
Mayor of that town. Samuel's 
brother, John, was Mayor of 
Boston, England, in 1626, 1627, 
1644 and 1645, that being the 
only instance of any man having 
been Mayor four times pre^^ous 
to the Municipal Act of 1835. 
Another brother, James, also was 
Mayor of Boston, in 1640. Rev. 
Mr. Whiting was Rector of St. 
Margaret's Church, L>Tin Regis, 
and also of Skirbeck Church, 
Boston, England, but on account 
of his non-conformist tendencies 
he decided to come to this country, 
bringing with him his second wife, 
who was a daughter of Oliver St. 
John, Chief Justice of England at 
one time, and a cousin of Oliver 
Cromwell. In honour of this 
preacher the name of the town 
during the ne.xt year was changed 
from Saugus to L}-nn, by order of 
the General Court, being recorded 
in these words, " Saugust is called 
Lin." Whiting on the voyage over 
said, "I would much rather under- 
go six weeks' imprisonment for 
a good cause, than sLx weeks of 



LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 



107 




From a photograph 



KindnfS! Rrv. William Appleton Latcr^nce, 
John Albree, Esq., and li'aher R. K'hiting, Esq. 



SHAFT OVER THE GRAVE OF REV. SAMUEL 
WHITING, THE FIRST MINISTER OF LYNN, 
MASSACHUSETTS, IN WEST LYNN CEMETERY, 

LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 
Rev. Samuel Whiting had been rector of St. Margaret's 
Church, L>'nn Regis, England, a picture of which is shown 
in another illustration. 



io8 



LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 




PkotogTapkfd by Amy E, Purdy, The Studio, King's Lynn ^ : ■ . ■ - / . / ' ■ ,- '/ on, Esq, 

ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH, LYNN REGIS, ENGLAND, 

the church of which Rev. Samuel Whiting was Rector before coming to the New England Lynn. .\ stone 
from this church was sent, in 1880, to St. Stephen's Church, in Lynn, Massachusetts. 



such terrible sea-sickness." He lies buried in the old Western Burying-ground, Lynn, 
and a granite memorial shaft has been erected over his grave by Hon. William 
Whiting of our Boston. There are many of his descendants in different parts of this 
country. The Whiting family has been prominent in the history of old Boston and 
the neighborhood not only for generations but for centuries, for in a document known 
as the Subsidy Roll of Edward IH (1333) occurs the name of William Whytynge. 
There have been many interchanges between the two places, and it is evident 
that the pecnle of old Lynn were in s>Tnpathy with their kinsmen in the New 
World from the very first, for in the records of St. Margaret's Church in 1653 is 
the following entry: — 

"Collected for the natives and distressed people of Newe England, and that from 
house to house within the parrish, and paid unto Mr. Joshua Green, ald'n. the 20th of 
Nov. 1653, £25: 13:00" 

The corner-stone of the present St. Stephen's Memorial Church, formerly called 
St. Stephen's Church, and still before that, Christ Church, was laid in the year 
1880. Several years previously Rev. Louis De Cormis, the Rector of the Parish at 



LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 




FTom a photograph Kindiias Rev. JVilliam AppUton Lawrence 

ST. STEPHEN'S CHURCH, LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, 
which has a stone sent from St. Margaret's Church, Lynn Regis, England. 

that time, suggested that a block of stone from one of the churches in Lynn, Eng- 
land, might be sent and inserted in the wall of his church and suitably inscribed. 
It was, therefore, decided that Hon. Roland G. Usher, a former Mayor of our 
Lynn, should take a letter from Rev. Mr. De Cormis to the English Rector, con- 
taining this suggestion. Part of this message read as follows: — 

"Lynn, Mass. United States 
Rn. and Dear Brother:— 0<^'- ^9, 1879- 

The recent celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding 
of our Citv, in bringing to mind the history of our name and the home of our first settlers, 
has generally revived and increased our attachment for the old parent city of Lynn, 
England; and I think you will understand how natural the desire is to increase it in the 
coming years, and especially to link our religious life as firmly as we can with that of our 
forefathers in the great English Church. To this good end, I am about to ask a very spe- 
cial favor of you. St. Stephen's Episcopal Church here is about erecting an elegant and 
commodious Church building, and it has occurred to many of us, that if we could secure 
a block of stone from the structure of one of the old churches of Lynn, England, to be 
inserted into one of our walls, with an inscription plate upon it, it would be a very beautiful 
and desirable thing to do." 



no 



LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 




A reply to this letter, dated 
June 28, 1880, read as follows: — 

' ' Rev. and Dear Brother: 

M}' thanks are due to you for 
kindly introducing to me so pleasant 
and friendly a man as the Honourable 
R. G. Usher, and also for the kind 
and Ijrotherly greeting contained in 
your letter. . . . Mr. Usher and I 
have selected a stone for your inter- 
esting purpose, from such fragments 
as were availalile in our grand old 
church. My only regret is that all the 
jjieces were so small. I hope, however, 
that our inability to find a piece of 
stone better adapted for your wishes 
will not materially lessen the satisfac- 
tion of your.self and your Church 
people on the receipt of a relic which 
it has been a real pleasure to me 
to send. 

John Durst, Rector of North Lynn 
and Vicar of King's Lynn, England" 

The stone, quarried during the 
eleventh century, was carefully 
i selected by the English Rector 
and Mr. Usher from this building, 
which is the old parish church, 
and sent to this country where 
it now occupies a place of honour 
in St. Stephen's Memorial Church 
in our Lynn, and makes a very 
tangible link between the new 

and the old Lynn. It forms a part of a window-jamb and bears the following 

inscription on one side: — 

ST. Margaret's church, lynn, England 

TO 

ST. Stephen's church, lynn, mass. u. s. a. 
28TH JUNE, 1880 

The other side was left imtouched as it had been for years. An inscription is also cut 
on a stone panel just below the shelf on which the stone is placed, as shown in the 
illustration on this page. At the laying of the corner-stone, Mr. Usher said in part : — 

"It comes as the expression of the interest and good will of the people of St. Mar- 
garet's — as a link to connect our Lynn with old King's Lynn in England. ... we pray 



1. -i-«" 

Kindneis Rev. UiHuim AppUton Ltitirence 

STONE SENT BY ST. M.\R(;.\RET'S CHURCH, 
KING'S LYNN, 

of which Rev. Samuel Whiting, Lynn's first minister, was 
rector before coming to New England. This relic is now 
in St. Stephen's Church, Lynn, Massachusetts, having 
been procured from the English Church in 1S80 by Hon. 
Roland G. Usher, and Rev. Louis De Cormis, once a 
minister of this church in our Lynn. 



LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS iii 

that the record for the ages to come of St. Stephen's Memorial Church, may be for use- 
fulness and influence equal to that of St. Margaret's." 

A formal resolution of thanks was adopted and sent across the water. A Centen- 
nial Memorial of Lynn, Massachusetts, was also sent over about this time, by 
Mr. Usher, to the English Lynn. 

The good will between the two places had been manifested also during the 
celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of Lynn, Massachusetts, 
held in June, 1879, at which time an invitation was sent by Mayor George D. 
Sanderson to Mayor Thomas A. Seppings of Lynn Regis to be present. Although 
unable to accept, the English Mayor replied most cordially, sending his congrat- 
ulations and best wishes to our city. Another letter was received from Rev. 
Edward J. Alvis, Vicar of East Winch and a native of old Lynn, who also sent an 
interesting engraving of his town. Another resident of the English town, John 
Coulton, sent a poem written by himself and dedicated to our Lynn, which was 
read at the anniversary, the last stanza of which was: — 

"For each a happy future is in store. 
If wisdom's counsels shall unite the nations 
Firmer in friendship for our feuds of yore — 
Alone, unrivall'd in our lofty stations 
Old England new in brighter destinies. 
New England old in hallow'd memories." 

Still another letter was received from Robert Brooks in which he said in part: — 

"Many of us when youths at school, scanning the map of the 'Young Giant' your 
country, have had our eyes drawn to 'Norfolk' and to 'Lynn' in a far distant land, — the 
names of our count}' and loved old town — we have wondered how it was, and at times with 
anxiety have wished to learn something of your history. At last kindly words 'have 
come across the sea.' You tell a tale of affection for one you were pleased to honour, — ■ 
' A beloved clergyman ' who once claimed our home as his ; in honouring him you honoured 
us. We now, in no formal words. Thank you.'^ 

Another occasion of interest was the celebration by the Lynn Historical Society, 
called "King's Lynn Night," which was observed a few years ago with appropriate 
exercises, including lectures on historical subjects pertaining to the old Lynn, stere- 
opticon views of the places of interest and a description of the town by some of the 
citizens of new Lynn who had visited there. In the records of this society mention 
is made of a Queen Victoria Medal which was presented to the organization in 
1S99 through Mayor Walter S. Ramsdell, having been sent from old Lynn accom- 
panied by a letter from the Mayor. At this time it was also mentioned that St. 
Stephen's Church had been sent some small organ pipes from St. Margaret's Church, 
but as no inscriptions were placed upon them they cannot be identified. 

The first offspring of our Lynn was Reading, which became a separate township 
in 1644 and which is dealt with later on in this volume. Nahant was granted in 
1622 by the Council in England to Captain Robert Gorges, who in turn gave part 






LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 113 

of the island and Saugus to John Oldham. Still later Nahant was purchased for 
the price of a suit of clothes by Thomas Dexter, who was then a farmer and who 
was one of the "ten men of Saugust" to found Sandwich in 1639. Even to this 
day the seal of Nahant depicts Dexter offering his suit of clothes to the Indian 
in exchange for the lands. In these early days and for many years there was a 
fence across Lynn Neck to keep in the cows and sheep that were pastured in Na- 
hant by the people of Lynn. It may be interesting also to record that in 1803 there 
were only five houses in Nahant, the Johnson family owning one of these. It is 
said that the wolf-pits of 1630 in the Ljoin Woods are the oldest unchanged works 
of man in the Colony. 

The English town now called Lynn, on the river Ouse, was once named 
Bishop's Lynn, but was later changed to Lynn Regis, or King's Lynn, during the 
reign of Henry VIII. It is situated in the county of Norfolk and is especially 
famous for its fine churches, its Custom House and its Guildhall; it also has an 
excellent public library, the gift of Andrew Carnegie. Through the fourteenth 
century the town was given o\er almost entirely to religious orders, and many 
monasteries were built there, chiefly by the Franciscans, Augustinians and Domini- 
cans, the best known of all these scholarly monks being John Capgrave, who wrote 
much poetry. Daniel Defoe visited the town in 1722 and described it as a "rich 
and populous port-town." 

Lynn rose rapidly from a marsh town to a seaport, still being an important port, 
as expressed in the following lines: — 

' ' Rising was a sea-port town 
When Lynn was but a marsh; 
Now Lynn it is a sea-port 
And Rising fares the worse." 

The derivation of the name is from the Celtic "lyn," meaning a "lake," which 
referred to the sea which covered a large part of the immediate district called 
Marshland, now reclaimed. One of the chief events in the history of the borough 
was the Siege of Lynn, which occurred in the time of the conflict between Charles I 
and the Parliamentary forces. The town, which sided with the Royalist cause, 
was fortified and awaited the attack by the Earl of Manchester. While divine 
worship was being held one day a cannon ball was sent through the church, 
scattering the congregation. This did not daimt them, however, for they 
said, "As soon might the Earl of IManchester raise his good father from the 
dead as force his entrance into Lynn." No help, however, came to the men 
who held the town and they were finally forced to surrender to the Parlia- 
mentary' troops. 

It is told that Oliver Cromwell, when a child, fell into the Ouse and was pulled out 
by a Royalist parson who was fishing nearby. Years later when Oliver the Protector 
revisited the scenes of his youth with his triumphant army, he met his rescuer and 



114 LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 

asked him if he remembered the occurrence. "Truly do I," was the prompt reply, 
"and the Lord forgive me but I wish I'd let thee drown." 

Lynn's church was founded by Herbert de Losinga, the first Norman bishop 
of East Anglia, and is famous for two fine sepulchral brasses, one of which shows 
a wonderful feast, among the delicacies on the table being a peacock "that noble 
bird, the food of lovers and the meat of Lords." An attendant is shown bringing 
in the peacock, and one of the guests is depicted in the act of straddling the table 
in his desire to obtain possession of it, while his neighbors remonstrate with him 
on his bad manners. The famous navigator George Vancouver, for whom Van- 
couver Island was named, was born in the English Lynn. 

Some one who visited the town remarked, "There's a bit o' life sometimes 
there," e.xplaining further that he liked it very much as compared to the quiet coun- 
try, which he said was like "living in a teapot and 'peekin' at the world through 
the spout." 

Among the important people of our Lyim should be mentioned Joseph Rcdnap, 
the cooper, who established his business here in 1634; Francis Ingalls, who estab- 
lished in the town the first tannery; Philip Kertland, a shoemaker, John Adam 
Dagyr, who was called the "celebrated shoemaker of Essex," and who added a new 
chapter to the shoe industry by introducing the more skillful French method of 
making shoes, making footwear, it is said, for the brides of Boston. In these early 
days shoemaking was carried on in the homes. To the town also came from London 
William Rose, who understood the art of manufacturing morocco and who, it is 
claimed, was the first to set up this business in the town. 

The dies for the Pine Tree shillings were made at the Saugus Iron Works by 
Esther Jenkes, the wife of the Superintendent. These works were established 
in 1642 near the present site of Pranker's Mills and they laid the foundation for the 
iron industry of the United States. The first Superintendent was Joseph Jenkes, 
who on May 14, 1646, received, for a water wheel which he designed, the first patent 
granted on the continent of North America. Jenkes was also the inventor of the 
American scythe. In the Public Library of Lynn is exhibited an iron kettle which 
is supposed to represent the first iron casting made in the New World. 

In the early days the preachers frequently timed their sermons with an hour 
glass and on one occasion a minister is said to have remarked, " I know you are good 
fellows; stay and take another glass." 



"S 



MALDEN, MASSACHUSETTS 

WE believe we can do no better than reproduce a letter written by Hon. 
Charles L. Dean, Mayor of Maiden, Massachusetts, to His Worship 
Edward A. Fitch, Mayor of Maldon, Essex, England, in reply to one 
received from Mr. Fitch on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary 
of the incorporation of our Maiden. With this letter from the English official 
came a short account of his old borough, with a request for information in regard 
to our Maiden. This letter runs as follows: — 

"Malden, Mass. May 13, 1899. 
Dear Sir; — 

Your valued communication of April 22nd duly received, also a copy of your book 
entitled Maldon and the Blackwater. I appreciate your kindness and am grateful for 
the trouble you have taken. I regret that you will not be able to be with us on our birth- 
day, but you may be assured that the people of Maiden in New England will not forget 
the old mother on the Blackwater at that time. 

Our historian has given me the following items of information in regard to the old 
settlers and I hope that you may be able to trace some of them as coming directly from 
your borough. 

A leader in the settlement of our town was Joseph Hills, who was married at Burstead 
Magna, Billericay, in 1624. He was of your parish of All Saints in 1631, and the births 
of his children are recorded there. In 1638 he came to New England with others. His 
son-in-law, John Wayte, who was a leading man here, was from Wethersfield, Esse.x. 
Another of our early settlers, Richard Pratt, is said to have been a son of John Pratt of 
your borough, where he was baptized in 1615. The authority for this statement is not 
known. Salmon, History of Esse.x, 424, says that John Pratt, an alderman of Maldon, 
was buried in All Saints in 1619. Thomas Ruck, an early landholder but not a settler, 
is said to have come from Alaldon. 

It may interest you to know that out of the little settlement of 1649, which was named 
Maldon (now changed to Maiden) have grown three cities with an aggregate population 
of about seventy thousand people. 

Again expressing our regret that you will not be able to be present at our anniversary 
exercises, I am, with kind regards, 

Very truly yours, 

Charles L. Dean, Mayor." 

The territory now included in Maiden, Everett and Melrose originally belonged to 
Charlestown and in 1634 it was known as "Mystic Side." The settlement of 
Maiden was actually made in 1640, but the town was not incorporated until 1649, 
when the following record appears: "In answer to the peticon of seull inhabitants 
of Misticke side their request is graunted, viz, to be a distinct towne of themselves 
& the name thereof to be Maulden." The name has been spelled Maldon, Mauldon, 
Maulden and Maiden. The town became a city in 1882. The first minister of 
the settlement was Marmaduke Matthews, who came from South Wales. 

At the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the incorporation of the town, 
St. Paul's Church exhibited a number of seals of England, and a sermon was at 



MALDEN, MASSACHUSETTS 



117 




Photographed by Hazeltine Frost, ClendaU Studio, Matdi-i Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson. Esq. 

ALL SAINTS CHURCH, MALDON, ESSEX, ENGLAND 

In the graveyard of this church he the remains of Lawrence Washington, the great-grandfather of George 
Washington, and his burial record is in the register of the church. 

that time preached by Rev. William Cunningham, Vicar of Great St. Mary's Church, 
Cambridge, England. 

Maldon, England, is in Essex County, about thirty-eight miles from London. 
It is said that once it had the distinction of being the real Camulodunum where 
King Arthur held his court, about which cluster the finest tales of chivalry ever 
recorded. While Maldon does not insist on this ancient claim, it can still boast of 
being the oldest chartered city in the county of Essex. In the Saxon Chronicle 
there are two references to Maldon. In 913 King Edward the Elder, while fighting 
the Danes, encamped there with his forces, during the construction of a fortress, 
and there he fought a great battle, drixing the enemy out of the town and slaying 
them by the thousands. In 920 Edward rebuilt Maldon and raised and garrisoned 
a castle there. 

The death of a Saxon hero during this early conflict brought forth one of the 
gems of old English poetry, — " Brihtnoth's Death," — that, even though imperfectly 
preserved, dramatically relates the story of the Battle of Maldon. Many times did 



ii8 MALDEN, MASSACHUSETTS 

the Northmen invade the East Anglian shores, but after centuries under the con- 
flicting rule of four nations, Maldon passed through a period of peace sufiiciently 
extended to enable the people to build churches. Before the Norman Conquest 
beautiful St. Mary's was erected, the tower of which fell in the seventeenth century, 
being rebuilt at the time of the emigration of the men who carried the name of 
Maldon into New England. 

Though a borough at the time of the Conquest, it is thought that the town's 
corporate existence must have begun under Saxon rule. The first recorded charter 
was granted in 1154 by Henry H. "Bloody Mary" gave a second charter in 1553 
and in 1810 the present charter was granted. 

The three lions depicted on the shield of the old borough appear in the town 
and city seal of Maiden, Massachusetts. American travelers through Essex County, 
England, invariably visit the old churchyard of All Saints, Maldon, where rest the 
remains of George Washington's great-grandfather, Lawrence Washington, who 
held the living of Purleigh. His burial record is also in the register of All Saints, 
Maldon. 

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 

THE one hundredth anniversary' celebration of the naming of the city of 
Manchester, New Hampshire, was held in 1910, and on this occasion the 
Lord ]\Iayor of Manchester, England, sent the following letter to Isaac 
Huse, Esq., President of the Manchester Historic Association: — 

"My dear Sir: — 

Your interesting letter of the iSth IVIay, informing me that one hundred years ago 
your town adopted the name of Manchester in the hope that it would attain a position of 
importance in manufactures and population, has given me great pleasure and I trust that 
your Centenary proceedings will prove a great success. 

Your expressions of goodwill towards us are much appreciated and reciprocated. 

I am, yours faithfully 

Charles Behrens, 

Lord Mayor." 

The City Library in Manchester, New Hampshire, has exchanged reports and letters 
with the library in Manchester, England, and also contains about three hundred 
books, pamphlets, reports and histories relating to the antiquities of the English 
city and a description of the cotton industry for which that place is famous. Most 
of this collection came originally from the library of the late G. H. Adshead, Esq., 
of Manchester, England, being purchased from his nephew, Hon. John Hyde of 
Washington, D.C. At the time of the semi-centennial celebration in 1896 Charles 
K. Walker, superintendent of the City Water Works, procured a photograph of 



MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



119 




Photographed by Fred T. Irwin 



CITY HALL, MANCHESTER, ENGLAND, 



Kindnesi Mijs F. Mabel WinciuU 



from a picture in the office of the Water Works of Manchester, New Hampshire, procured by Charles K. 
Walker, Manager of that Department at the time of the semi-centennial of the city. 



the City Hall of Manchester, England, which together with a photograph of the 
City Hall of Manchester, New Hampshire, may now be seen in the office of the 
Manchester Water Works Department. 

The early history of this important New England city is of great interest: — 
On June 13, 1810, John Langdon, Governor of New Hampshire, affixed his seal 
to a bill by which the name of the town of Derryfield was changed to IManchester, 
the exact phraseology of the essential part of the bill being as follows : — 

"Be it Enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives in General Court 
conaen-ed : 
That said town of Derryfield shall forever hereafter be called and known by the name 
of Manchester, any law, usage or custom to the contrary notwithstanding." 

The reason for this form of expression may perhaps be found in the fact that the 
place now designated as Manchester had already borne several different names. 
There is a tradition that the territory was originally called by the Indians Kas- 
kaashadi, "the place of broken water," referring to the falls of Amoskeag. If this 
was the case this name must have given way to Namaoskeag, meaning "a great 
place for fish." The white settlers in this locality called it Nutfield, or the Chestnut 



I20 



MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



^f^^T^ 




-'-v"i..:^f-*tf5^^- 



from " The Centennial Celebration nf Mcnchtfter, N.fl." 

OLD DERRYFIELD MEETING HOUSE 

Manchester, New Hampshire, was at one time called Derryfield because the people of Derry used to 

pasture their cows there. 

Countr)-, on account of the abundance of chestnut trees, Tyng's Township being 
another name, meaning the land granted to Tyng and his men. Still later it was 
called by the derisive name of Harrytown, a shortened form of "Old Harry's 
Town," and in 1751 it was called Derryfield, because the people of the nearby 
town of Derry were accustomed to pasture their cows there. These names did 
not all apply to precisely the same district, nevertheless they were all, excepting 
possibly the first, applied at some time to the whole or a part of the territory which 
in 1810 by act of legislature acquired the name of Manchester. The early settlers 
were either the families of the Scotch-Irish, who had come to this part of Xew 
Hampshire in 1719, or the descendants of the English Puritans. 

The name of Manchester was given to the town as a compliment to Judge 
Samuel Blodget, who had built a home for himself near Amoskeag Falls in 1793 
and who became the pioneer of internal improvements in New Hampshire. He 
was the first to realize the value of the water power at Amoskeag and for its devel- 
opment he worked incessantly, finally achieving his triumph in 1807, when he rode 
through the canal amid the applause and praise of the people who had gathered on 
the banks to wdtness the event. On the occasion of a xisit to England in 1787 he 
prophesied that his home town would some time suqjass old Manchester as a man- 



MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



121 




From an old print o-j-ned hy AlUn Forher 



Formerly in the collrclion of J. R, Krrrs, Etsrx, Enghnd 

MANCHESTER, ENGLAND 



ufacturing center but at the time that Manchester received its name there was little 
to indicate that Judge Blodget's prophecy would ever in any measure be fulfilled. 
In an address delivered at the centennial celebration of the naming of Manchester 
it was said that in the year 1810 there seemed to be but two facts that made the 
place in any way notable; one was the existence of the Amoskeag Falls with their 
fisheries and possibihties while the other was that the town was the home of Major 
General John Stark, the Revolutionary hero, who was then passing a peaceful old 
age on his estate near the Falls. 

In 1 8 14 the navigation of the Merrimack was fully opened and the river became 
a considerable water highway whose traffic continued for some years after the 
opening of the Concord railroad in 1842. The manufacture of cloth near the 
Amoskeag Falls was begun before Manchester was so named and, in the year of 
its naming, a company was formed known as the Amoskeag Cotton and Wool 
Factory. This company, however, had little capital or machinery and its output 
was small. In the year 183 1 the present Amoskeag Manufacturing Company was 
chartered with a capital of a million dollars, a large sum for that time, and Samuel 
Blodget's dreams of the future began in some degree to be realized. The new- 
company was organized "for the purpose of taking over the old company, devel- 
oping water power, acquiring and selling land, selling sites and power to other man- 
ufacturing concerns, building and operating mills of its own and so bringing about 
the growth of a flourishing manufacturing town worthy the name it had been 



122 MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 

given." Other prominent companies here are the International Cotton Mills, the 
largest producers of cotton duck in this country, and the W. H. McElwain Com- 
pany, makers of shoes. In connection with all these industries it has been humor- 
ously remarked that if one of the old Indian chieftains should come down the Mer- 
rimack in his canoe in quest of clothing, he could obtain a complete outfit of apparel 
made in Manchester and could even put the finishing touch to his modem equipment 
by placing between his lips a Manchester-made cigar. 

It is an interesting fact that Manchester, England, obtained a city charter 
only eight years earlier than Manchester, New Hampshire, and that the English 
town did not receive the title of city until its namesake had enjoyed that honour 
for seven years. Old Manchester, however, had had a long history before it could 
be called a city. On the banks of the river now known as the Irwell in that part 
of England called Lancashire the ancient Romans had a camp, or"castrum," 
named Mancunium. The Saxon records show that about the year 923 King 
Edward sent a number of his Mercian troops to repair and garrison the fortress of 
Manig-ceaster. The place was mentioned in the Domesday Book as one of four 
in southeast Lancashire. It is known that woolen manufacture was carried on 
there in the thirteenth century and in 1552, in the reign of Edward \T, laws were 
passed by Parliament regulating the length of Manchester cotton, which, notwith- 
standing the name, was probably woolen. In 1650 the cloth manufactures of Man- 
chester ranked among the first in England in extent and importance, and its people 
were described as "the most industrious in the northern part of the kingdom." 
The inadequate supply of cotton goods about the middle of the eighteenth century 
stimulated efforts for increasing the means of production and the machines succes- 
sively invented by Arkwright, Hargreaves and others furnished this means; the 
efificiency of these machines was greatly increased by the perfection of Watt's 
steam-engine. The English city has long been known as the center of English 
cotton manufacture and, if the entire population of the urban district were in- 
cluded, greater Manchester would probably rival London in the number of its 
inhabitants. To such a Manchester, it may well be believed, there is "none like 
nor second." 

In 1783 the English Manchester, with Salford on the other side of the river, 
had a population of 39,000 mainly given over to the manufacture of cloth, and it 
may, therefore, be interesting to note that the late Hon. Edwin F. Jones found in 
this fact a literal fulfillment of Samuel Blodget's prophecy. "Our Manchester," 
said he, speaking in 1910, "is the Manchester of America! and it is today larger 
and more prosperous than was the original Manchester when Judge Blodget 
returned from England in 1787." 

The early emigration to the American colonies from Manchester and the dis- 
tricts nearby was very small, the names of Henry Dunster, Samuel Gorton, Oba- 
diah Holmes and the ancestors of the Sewell and Dana families being the only ones 



MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 123 

we are able to trace to New England. Some of the Saltonstall family are well 
known in the English Manchester, several having died at Holme Hall. 

Manchester, Massachusetts, was named perhaps for Manchester, England, but 
more probably for the Earl of Manchester who had an official connection with the 
colonies. We are sure, however, that those who settled in the Massachusetts town 
came from the eastern counties of England. 

There are also places by the name of Manchester in Connecticut, Maine and 
Vermont. 

MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 

MED FORD, one of the earhest permanent settlements of the Massachusetts 
Bay Colony, unlike all others, was the proprietary of the "Governour" 
of the colonizing company and to Matthew Cradock the large city of 
today owes its name. Those early explorers. Captain John Smith and Bartholo- 
mew Gosnold, may have seen or looked from its hills, but the first recorded visit 
of white men was by an exploring party from Plymouth in September of the year 
1621, consisting of "Standish the stalwart, with eight of his valorous army, led by 
their Indian guide ..." as expressed by Longfellow. They encoimtered some 
redskins and with inducements of trade and promises to come again they returned 
to Pl>Tnouth. It was, however, left to others to become Medford's first settlers, 
nearly seven years later, the company comprising fishermen, farmers and mechan- 
ics in the employ of Matthew Cradock, a wealthy merchant, who, besides his asso- 
ciated interests in the "London Company of Massachusetts Bay," ventured to a 
certain extent on his own account. These Englishmen coming to Salem in the 
migration of 1628, or earUer, soon foimd their way to the Mistick Valley and made 
a permanent settlement "four miles along the river." Title to this territory was 
later confirmed to Cradock by the General Court, thereby making it his proprie- 
tary. It was then known by the various names of "Mr. Cradock's Farm," 
"Mistick" and "Medford." It was also styled a "plantation," but was never 
called a town until a half-century had passed. Cradock has been called "the 
Father of our Medford," although curiously enough he never came overseas, his 
business here being conducted by agents. He was the first president of the trading 
company chartered by King Charles I, his official title being "Governour." He 
suggested the transfer of the Colony's government to these shores but resigned his 
important office to Winthrop, who brought the charter with him, and coincident 
with this charter are our present titles of Governor and General Court. Cradock 
had a country seat at a Httle hamlet in Staffordshire, England, called Medford, the 
EngUsh name having been spelled at different times Medford, Metford, Mepford, 
Mefiford and, at the present time, Meaford. It is considered by careful historians 
that he gave the name of his English possession to this new venture in the Bay 



124 



MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 




from a ptctuff pufjli^hfd by T. C Jdif ^ Co. Ki'-J'f 1 :>: F •' f h' ■ ^r[ nn, K,tj. 

MEAFORD, STAFFORDSHIRE, ENGLAND 

Medford, Massachusetts, was named for this small English hamlet which was the country-seat of Matthew 
Cradock, "Governour of the London Company of Massachusetts Bay." Though he never came to New 
Englan<l, he was founder of our Medford and until his death was its sole proprietor. 

Colony and that his agent gave it to the General Court, the clerk of which spelled 
it Meadford; thus it appears in the earliest records of the town at the time of its 
incorporation half a century later. It is also spelled in this way by Dudley in his 
letter to the Countess of Lincoln, from which shire, as well as from SufTolk and Essex, 
came these early Medford settlers. Cradock 's business interests were none too 
well managed by his agents, although at first they were considerable, as seen in 
Wood's "New England Prospect:" — 

"Mistic . . . is seated by the water-side very pleasantly; there are not many houses 
as yet. . . . On the east side is Mr. Cradock's plantation where he hath impaled a 
park where he keeps his cattle till he can store it with deer. Here, likewise, he is at charges 
of building ships. The last year one was upon the stocks of an hundred tons; that being 
finished they are to build one twice her burthen." 

After Cradock's death, his great farm passed into various ownerships. Several 
sons of Thomas Brooks settled here, one branch of the family still remaining in 
possession of the ancestral acres over which Standish marched and where died 
Nanepashemit, the Indian king. Other descendants were John Brooks, seven 
years Governor of Massachusetts, Peter Chardon Brooks, and Rev. Charles Brooks, 
the first historian of Medford. 
■ "Mistick" was the Englishman's way of pronouncing the name of the river 



MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 125 

which the Indians called "Missi-tuk," meaning "the great tidal river;" Mystic it 
is still called, but there is nothing mystical or mysterious about it. This river, 
often called Medford River, was a highway of trade, and on its banks, between 
1802 and 1873, were built five hundred and sixty-seven vessels, — all in Medford, — - 
a remarkable record. The names of some of the people who have contributed to 
make this industry so famous are Magoun, Turner, Lapham, Hastings, Sprague, 
James, Fuller, Rogers, Stetson, Waterman, Ewell, Curtis, Foster and Taylor. One 
of the first ships launched in this country was the well-known "Blessing of the 
Bay" which was built in 163 1 at "Ten Hills Farm," the property of Governor 
Winthrop, part of which was within the present Umits of Medford. Of " Medford," 
the first recorded mention was in September, 1630, when a tax of three pounds was 
levied for military instruction. 

Fifteen other Medfords in as many States, all more or less traceable to ours, 
bear the name of that little hamlet on the river Trent in Staffordshire, in old Eng- 
land, the country home of Governor Matthew Cradock. 



NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 

"They came, so simply the quaint records tell, 
'From England's stately homes' they loved full well, 
'For conscience and religion's sake,' to dwell 
'Amid this wilderness,' by God's good grace. 
To rear in Quascacunquen, Newbury's race. 
This goodly land, sea-fronting levels wide. 
Their earnest gaze espied. 
Ripe for the planting of a continent." 

THE above is an extract from an ode written by Mrs. Louisa P. Hopkins on 
the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of 
Newbury, Massachusetts. It is not strictly correct to state that these 
Newbury settlers came to this country for "rehgion's sake," for they came really 
for farming and stock-raising. Many of them did not separate from the Church 
of England before sailing and some of their grandchildren even returned to this 
form of worship and built Queen Anne's Chapel in 17 11, stating that they were 
of "the pure Episcopal Church of England." At this same aimiversary celebra- 
tion Dr. Samuel C. Bartlett in his address called attention to the words of Judge 
Samuel Sewall, who was born a few years after the settlement of our Newbury. 
These words were later changed into verse by John Greenleaf Whittier and were 
published in the history of the town issued by the Towle Manufacturing Com- 
pany. We quote the first part: — 

"As long as Plum Island, to guard the coast 
As God appointed, shall keep its post; 
As long as the salmon shall haunt the deep 
Of Merrimac River, or sturgeon leap; 



126 NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 

As long as pickerel, swift and slim 

Or red-backed perch, in Crane Pond swim; 

As long as the annual sea-fowl know 

Their time to come and their time to go; 

As long as cattle shall roam at will 

The green, grass meadows of Turkey Hill; 

As long as sheep shall look from the side 

Of Oldtown Hill on marshes wide. 

And Parker River and salt-sea tide; 

As long as a wandering pigeon shall search 

The fields below from his white-oak perch. 

When the barley harvest is ripe and shorn. 

And the dry husks fall from the standing corn; 

As long as Nature shall not grow old, 

Nor drop her work from her doting hold. 

And her care for the Indian corn forget, 

And the yellow rows in pairs to set; — 

So long shall Christians here be born, 

Grow up and ripen as God's sweet corn I'' 

This prediction of the prosperity of our Newbury has materialized, for from this 
early settlement also started West Newbury, the city of Newburyport and other 
nearby towns. 

The people of Newbury have long taken a great interest in their mother town 
in England and just previous to the two hundred and fiftieth anniversarj', on mo- 
tion of Mayor Benjamin Perley Poore, the Committee on Literary Exercises was 
empowered to invite the Municipal Authorities and other delegates from Newbury, 
England, to participate in the celebration. The following answer was received: — ■ 

"Borough of Newbury, Berks. 

To wit: 

At a meeting of the Mayor and Corporation of the said Borough held at the Council 
Chamber of and in the said Borough on Tuesday the thirteenth day of January, one 
thousand eight hundred and eighty five, it was unanimously Resolved — That this council 
desires to express to the ]Mayor and Citizens of the Town of Newburyport, Massachu- 
setts, in the United States of America, its hearty congratulations in the approaching 
celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth Anniversary of its Incorporation, recognizing 
its Municipality as in some sort the offspring of this Ancient Borough, the past history 
of which is so largely interwoven with that of the Parent Country. That they desire to 
greet with hearty goodwill and sympathy the Municipality of Newburyport, and to rejoice 
with them on the remarkable progress and prosperity which, by the blessing of Providence, 
and the efforts of those enterprising men who in the Seventeenth Century left their native 
land to found a new home in the Western Continent, has attended their Corporate exist- 
ence for so long a period. That it is peculiarly gratifying to the Corporate Body and to 
the Inhabitants of this Borough to know that a former Minister of this Town — the Rev'd. 
Thomas Parker, was one of the original Settlers at Newburyport, in the year 1634; and 
that the name of a Rector of this Parish — the Rev'd. Benjamin Woodbridge, occupies the 
first place on the List of Graduates of Harvard University, and very sincerely do they 
trust that the town of Newburyport may continue to flourish and contribute many illus- 
trious names to the Roll of x\merican Worthies. 



NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 127 

Resolved further: — That a Copy of these Resolutions, suitably engrossed, be 
sealed with the Common seal of the Corporation, signed by the Mayor, and forwarded 
to the Mayor of Newburyport by the Town Clerk. 

William Hall, Mayor (Seal) 
H. Burke Godwin, Town Clerk." 

The English town sent another letter a short time later, which was elaborately 
engraved on parchment and which has been placed in the archives of the City of 
Newburyport. Another evidence of the interest taken by the English town in her 
namesake occurred in 1911 when at the suggestion of Walter Money, the historian 
of Newbury, England, Alfred Camp, Mayor of that town, sent a copy of the charter 
of incorporation of the Borough of Newbury, which was granted by Queen Eliza- 
beth and which is now a valued relic in the Historical Society of Old Newbury, 
Massachusetts. This interesting record is dated 1596 and appoints Bartholomew 
Yates as the first Mayor of the town. With this present also came a letter from 
Mayor Camp, part of which is as follows: — 

"March 16, igii. 
MtrericiPAL Buildings 
Newbury 
As you observe, the possession of this photographic copy will be our Historical link 
between our ancient Borough and your own Newburyport, and I trust while being so, 
it will also be a worthy addition and adornment to your Museum collection. Wishing 
Newburyport all prosperity in its future career, and in emulation of the best traditions 
of the old Borough and Country, 
Believe me. 

Yours very sincerely, 

Alfred Camp, Mayor." 

A few years ago. Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse, Rector of All Saints Church, West 
Newbury, and President of the Historical Society of Old Newbury, visited the old 
town in England and there met Mr. Money and officials of the town. When Mr. 
Morse built his church, he wrote to the Rector of St. Nicholas Church in Newbury, 
England, and asked him if he would send him a stone or some present to place in 
his church here. The war started soon after, which prevented at that time the 
carrying out of this suggestion, but in February, 1920, Mr. Morse received from 
him a Bible which had been used for many years in the Lady Chapel of St. Nicholas 
Church. Mr. Morse, as can be seen by the photographs of both churches, followed 
the perpendicular Gothic style of architecture of the Newbury church when he super- 
intended the building of his church in West Newbury in 191 2. Mr. Morse has taken 
a great interest in the old town as his ancestors were among the early settlers. An- 
other visit we should mention was made by Rev. Mr. Titmarsh, pastor of the Congre- 
gational church in Newbury, England, who came to Newbury, Massachusetts, at the 
time of the International Conference of Congregational Churches, which was held in 
Boston in 1899, and while here he preached at the First Church in Newbury and also 
spoke before the Historical Society, where he told them all about his town. 



128 



NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a print 



ALL SAINTS CHURCH, WEST NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 



This church was built in igi3-i4 under the supervision of its Rector, Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse, who followed 
the character of St. Nicholas Church in Newbury, England, shown in another illustration. 

The earliest commemoration of the settlement of our Newbury of which we have 
any knowledge was the first Centennial held in 1735 which, according to tradition, 
took place in Col. Joseph Coffin's front yard. Another celebration in the town 
took place in 1759, when the British and Colonial Arms were triumphant at Que- 
bec. The citizens on this occasion are said to have roasted an ox in the west yard 
of Mr. Lowell's meeting-house, when they doubtless sang these and other words: — 

"With true British valour we broke every line 
And conquered Quebec in the year fifty-nine." 

The lands near Newburv had for some time attracted the attention of the Ens- 
Hsh, for we read that one Wilham Wood returned to the old country in 1633 after 
a four years' residence in Massachusetts, and pubhshed in London a book giving 
a "description of that part of America commonly called New England," and in this 
review of all the settlements he reserved his choicest words for the last. " Agawam " 
he says, "is the best place but one, which is Merrimack, lying eight miles beyond 



NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 



129 




From an old print Brought from Ne^'bury, England, by Rev. GUnn TilUy Mont 

ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH, NEWBURY, ENGLAND 

The character of this church was copied by Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse, when All Saints Church in West 
Newbury, Massachusetts, was built in 1913. 

it, where is a river twenty leagues navigable. All along the river are fresh marshes, 
in some places three miles broad. In this river is sturgeon, salmon and bass, and 
divers other kinds of fishes. To conclude, the country hath not that which this 
place does not yield." His Merrimack was our Newbury. 

It takes but b'ttle imagination to see the first Uttle band, consisting of about 
twenty-three men and their families, as they sailed from Ipswich one morning in 
the spring of 1635, wending their way through Plum Island Sound and up the 
Parker River to a spot on its northern bank one hundred rods below the present 
bridge, where Nicholas Noyes was said to be the first to leap ashore. This spot is 
held quite sacred by the people of Newbury, who placed there a stone, shown in 
the illustration on the next page, the inscription upon which reads as follows:^ 

1902 

LANDING PLACE 

OF THE 

FIRST SETTLERS 

163s 



13° 



NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a phutatT'iph by Noyrs, Nruiuryport :i..Tr\nt! E, Jones dnd Rn. Glrnn Tillty Morse 

STONE MARKING LANDING PLACE OF THE FIRST SETTLERS, 1635, ON PARKER 
RIVER, NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 
It is placed not far from the Ship Monument. 

Rev. Thomas Parker and James Noyes were also with these pioneers and were 
chosen pastor and "teacher," respectively, of their church. Farther up the river, 
on Oldtown lower green, has been placed another monument, surmounted by a 
model of a ship of the old days, erected in honour of these early settlers, the inscrip- 
tion being as follows: — 

To the men and women 

who settled in Newbury 

from 1635 to 1650 and 

founded its municipal 

social and religious life, 

this monument is dedicated 
190S 

Rev. Benjamin Woodbridge, a settler in the town, has the honour of having ranked 
first in the first class graduated from Harvard College. 

Curiously enough, Newbury in Massachusetts was formerly called Old Newbury, 
although before this it was named Oldtown and still before that Wescussacco; its 
present name of Newbury was given in the year 1635. In this year the General 
Court of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay appointed a board of commissioners to 
set out the bounds between Ipswn'ch and Quascacunquen and at the same time 
ordered that the new plantation should be called Newbury from the old town in 



NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 



131 



Berkshire, England, where Rev. 
Mr. Parker had preached before 
coming to this country. The list 
of names identified with the early 
history of Newbury is a long 
one and includes Daniel Pierce, 
Thomas and James Noyes, Henry 
Sewall, Caleb Moody, Anthony 
Morse, Captain Stephen Green- 
leaf, Richard Dummer, Colonel 
Kent and Edward Rawson; while 
those names later identified with 
the town were Adams, Chase, 
Poore, Hale, Lunt, Somerby, 
Lowell, Little, Sawyer, Bartlett, 
Brown, Jaques, Knight, Emery 
and Titcomb. Newburyport was 
not incorporated until 1764, this 
step being taken chiefly on ac- 
count of the need for public school 
accommodations in that part of 
the township. The best-known 
names in this flourishing city are 
Lowell, Dalton, Tracy, Jackson, 
Todd, Cushing, Sawyer, Coffin, 
Jones, Wheelwright, Huse, Cary, 
Greenleaf, Hooper and Moseley; 
while those who were best known 
in West Newbury soon after its 
settlement were Moses and Joshua 
Brown, Josiah Bartlett, Benjamin 
Perley Poore, also the Ordway, 
Chase, Johnson, Dole, Greenleaf, 
Little, Smith, Bailey, Emery, 
Rogers, Felton and Morse fami- 
lies. Timothy De.xter, who origi- 
nated the well-known T. D. pipe, 

was one of the curious characters of Newburyport in recent times. At the time 
that he wrote his book "A Pickle for the Knowing Ones," there were so many 
discussions in regard to proper punctuation that he left out all marks of punctu- 
ation in the body of his book but at the end printed several pages of periods, 




Photographed by Noyfs, Nrrbiiryport 



Kindness Miss Uarriette E.Jones 
and Rev, Glenn Tilley Morse 



SHIP MONUMENT PLACED ON THE OLDTOWN 
LOWER GREEN IN NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS, 

in honour of the early settlers. Their leader was Rev. 
Thomas Parker, who had previously preached in Newbury, 
England, and it was out of respect to him that this name 
was given to the Massachusetts town. The names of all 
the earhest settlers arc on the other side of this memorial. 



132 



NEWBURY. MASSACHUSETTS 




i^hoiograpked from an old print in the Marine Museum, Boston, Massachusetts Kindness Robert B. Smith, Esf. 

NF.WBURVPORT, MASSACHUSETTS, IN 1847, FROM SALISBURY 
Newburj-port was at one time a part of Newbury. 

commas, etc., which he declared the reader could insert as he desired. It is a 
curious fact that from near Indian Hill Farm, West Newbury, can be seen many 
towns which bear the same names as English ones, such as Newbury. SaUsbury, 
Gloucester, Hampton, E.xeter, Amesbury and Andover; in fact almost all of the 
names in this region betray the origin of its colonists. Settlers from Newbury also 
helped found the towns of Nantucket, Concord, New Hampshire, Andover. Haver- 
hill, Salisbury and Hampton. 

There is also a Newbury in New Hampshire and one in \'ermonl. 

St. Paul's Church in Newburyport used to own some silver plate that was 
sent over by King WiUiam and Queen Mary, but this was stolen from the 
church in 1887 and has never been recovered, though duplicates have been made. 
Another fact of interest is the bell presented by the Bishop of London in 
1 7 18 to Queen Anne's chapel, situated on the road between West Newbury 
and Newburyport. 

Newbury, England, is on the river Kennet, a branch of the Thames, and was 
once known as "New Bourg," being situated on the road between London and 
Bath. The town was formerly noted for the manufacture of cloth, an industry 
which started during the reign of Henry VIII. In this trade the most prominent 
character seems to have been "Jack of Newbury," as he has been called, who, 
according to tradition, proved himself a hero during the battle of Flodden Field 



NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 



133 




From a pamphUt pri/nrtj b\ thf Towle Manufacturing Company, Nrwhuryport, Massachuictt; 

NEWBURY STREET, NEWBURY, ENGLAND 

when he and his brother warriors fought so bravely that they have gone down 
in history in these words: — 

"The Cheshire lads were brisk and brave, 
And the Kendall Laddies as free, 
But none surpassed or I'm a knave 
The Laddies of Newberrie." 

Another interesting event in the town's history has been handed down to us. In 
the year 181 1, Sir John Throckmorton made a bet of one thousand guineas that 
John Coxeter, an experienced weaver, could produce a finished woolen coat from the 
raw material on the sheep's back all within the space of twenty-four hours. This 
he succeeded in doing, much to the surprise of those who lost their money by betting 
against Sir John, and the winner of the wager sat down to dinner that same evening 
wearing the garment. It still exists and has been sent to a number of exhibi- 
tions, including the International one in 1851 ; also a painting recording this episode 
was made at the time and is now in the possession of one of the family. 

In the old days the people of Newbury often journeyed by stage to Bath where 
they would spend their holidays and as it was possible to carry very Uttle baggage 
on the coach with them, it is said that the women usually had to wait indoors sev- 
eral days after their arrival until their fine dresses came up later by wagon. In 



134 



NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a photograph Kindness S. C. Aecu, L:<i. 

JACK OF NEWBURY'S HOUSE, NEWBURY, 
ENGLAND, 

the old Cloth Hall, now used as a museum. One of the 
most prominent characters in the cloth trade was "Jack 
of Newbury." A picture of this ancient house hangs, 
with other photographs, in the Public Library of New- 
burjport, Massachusetts. 



Newbury is a parish called 

Speenhamland and it was there 

that the well-known Pelican Inn. 

so noted for its good dinners and 

high prices, received the many 

stage-coach travelers, one of whom 

wrote these amusing lines :^ 

"The famous inn at Speenhamland 
That stands below the hill, 
May well be called the Pelican 
From its enormous bill." 

In ancient times the Newbury 
church appointed officers called 
"dog rappers," whose duty it was 
to drive dogs out of church should 
they wander within its doors, the 
whips carried by these officials 
being used by the church wardens 
as symbols of service. Another 
event in the early history of New- 
bury was the siege of the castle 
in the year 1152 by King Stephen. 
There is practically nothing left 
of the fortress, though a picture 
of it on the seal of the old town 
still reminds us of its previous 
existence. This castle was de- 



fended during the siege by John 
Marshall, the representative of Matilda, who was the daughter of Henry I. Mar- 
shall, in command of the castle forces, pretended that he was desirous of consulting 
Matilda in regard to surrender and arranged with the enemy to grant an armistice, 
giving his Uttle son as a hostage; but, in the meantime, he secretly endeavored to 
get provisions. His scheme was discovered by King Stephen, who ordered that 
the boy should be thrown by a sUng against the castle walls. Fortunately the 
King relented. Several times as he was about to murder the hostage he changed 
his mind and finally promised to spare his hfe. A few days later the two were 
seen playing some game together, the King having become very fond of the boy. 
Near Newbury is the Falkland memorial which was built in 1878 to commemo- 
rate Lord Falkland and those of his friends who died on the field of Newbury while 
fighting on the King's side. The old Cloth Hall, now a museum, is an interesting 
example of mediaeval architecture. Another object of interest is the market-place 



NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 135 

containing the municipal buildings and a statue of Queen Victoria presented to 
the borough by the well-known circus king, George Sanger, who was born in the 
town. Horse races were also held in the town as early as the time of King Charles 
n. The Mortimer family owned much land there at one time. 

NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 

ALTHOUGH Newcastle was probably not directly named for Newcastle, 
/\ England, yet the town, with its narrow rambUng streets and small low 
A \ houses, reminds one so much of the English fishing villages of Cornwall 
and Devon from which many of the early settlers of the Island came, that we are 
going to include in this book a number of interesting connections between the 
New Hampshire town and the mother country. 

In 1873, the postmaster of Newcastle, New Hampshire, Mr. H. M. Curtis, re- 
ceived a letter written by Mr. Henry Starr of London, informing him that one of his 
friends, a certain Captain Bokenham, of Hertfordshire, England, had in his posses- 
sion some of the early records of this New Hampshire town. The inhabitants were 
very much astonished and were very skeptical as to the authenticity of these docu- 
ments, but finally decided to inquire what e.xpense there would be in getting them 
back. Much to the surprise and delight of the people of Newcastle the reply was 
the volumes themselves, which came by the ne.xt English mail and proved to be 
the records from the date of the incorporation of the town in 1693 to the year 
1726, in perfect preservation and written in the handwriting of Francis Tucker, 
Theodore Atkinson and Sampson Sheafe, three of the earlier officials of the town. 
It is a curious fact that Captain Bokenham, in whose house the records were found, 
had no idea how they came there and no definite conclusion has ever been arrived 
at. These records were all the more valuable owing to the fact that the early 
records of the neighboring city of Portsmouth had been destroyed by fire. The 
town of Newcastle at the ne.xt annual meeting, held in 1874, passed a vote of thanks 
to the gentlemen who had discovered and given the records and this vote was 
engrossed on parchment and sent to London. 

An interesting custom adopted at the early town meetings was described by 
an inhabitant, who stated that the voters used to deliberate with their hats on, as 
they wished to copy the British Parhament. Another custom in the early times 
was for all the inhabitants of the Province to assemble at the fort and to fire a 
salute whenever any important news came from England. 

The town of Newcastle, at first called "Great Island," was not incorporated until 
1693, although it was settled before the neighboring city of Portsmouth, and for the 
first seventy-five years it was the capital of the Province of New Hampshire and also 
the place of residence of the Governors. The chief industry of the town used to be, 
and still is to a certain extent, its fisheries, and in the old days one of the principal 



136 



NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 




From a photograph Kindness fVillizm D. Turner, Esq. 

A STREET IN NEWCASTLE, NKW HAMPSHIRE 

This attractive fishing village, with its narrow, winding streets and quaint low houses, is much like some of 

the English fishing villages of Cornwall and Devon. 

town officials had the title of "culler of fish and staves." It is also a well-known 
fact that the States of New Hampshire and Maine both owe their discovery and 
early settlement to the fishing industry carried on b\' the English from their own 
harbours. Many distinguished families have lived in Newcastle and among the 
most prominent in Colonial days were the Sheafes, Atkinsons, JatTreys, Vaughans, 
Waltons, Jacksons, Wentworths, Frosts and Odiornes. In mentioning the Sheafes it 
might be well to record that a member of the family owned the original settlement 
of Newcastle and that the family has been very prominent both in New Hampshire 
and in Massachusetts. Their ancestors came from Kent, England, and there is in 
that county an interesting inscription on a family monument reading as follows: — 

Here are buried under this stone, 
Thomas Sheff and his wife, Marion; 
Sometyme we warr as yee now bee 
And now we are as bee shall yee; 
Wfierefore of your charite, 
Pray for us to the Trinite. 

Obyt. Mcccbcxxxiii 



NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



137 




Inm ■• NcacaslU" by Johr. Alhie, iSSs 



NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSfflRE 



Kindnesi li'illia^i D. Turner. Esq. 



It was formerly called "Great Island" and was for seventy-five years the capital of the Province of New 
Hampshire and seat of the Royal Governors. " Little Harbour " is seen on the right. The river Piscataqua 
runs past both sides of the island, which is connected with Portsmouth only by a causeway. 

Governor Wentworth's mansion is at Little Harbour and here have hved many 
of the family, so prominent in the history of the State. Here Samuel Wentworth, 
ancestor of three Governors and one of Newcastle's most respected citizens, kept a 
tavern called "At Ye Sign of Ye Dolphin." We wish that we had more space to 
describe others of the bygone daj's. 

The people of Newcastle were very independent, and it was said that the only 
time citizens of Portsmouth took any interest in them was just before election. 
for the Island vote was so influential in the state elections that there was a proph- 
ecy "as goes Newcastle, so goes the State." 

It has been said that a Newcastle sailor, as soon as he was able, always returned 
to his birthplace like the Kentites of the old days. It has also been claimed that 
the natives were so attached to their home that when a woman native of the town 
married a man who did not live on the island the husband always had to move 
his residence and business to her place of abode. 

There are said to be many unmarked graves on the island, and one of the farm- 
ers, who did a great deal of plowing with his yoke of oxen, said that he was always 
in fear lest his cattle should stumble into one of the ancient graves, an accident 
which he admitted had often happened. He used to boast that he knew where 



138 NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 

many of the family burial places were, although they were not marked. "I've 
been in them," he said. "In old times they didn't dig very deep, and when the 
coffin gets empty and the wood thin and a heavy ox steps on the right place down 
he goes." Another citizen of the town asked a friend of his how he could fmd out 
his family history. "By running for office" was the amusing reply. 

The most important visitor to Newcastle was George Washington who visited 
there in 1789; naturally, the natives immediately took him fishing, but, of course, 
catching a fish was out of the question on account of the din of the brass band. A 
bright fisherman, however, anticipating this possibility, had tied a fish to the end 
of his line and "the Father of his Country" hauled up a large cod which should 
have been mounted and placed among other Newcastle antiquities. Washington 
was entertained at the Wentworth mansion and a salute in his honour was fired 
from Fort Constitution. This fort was occupied by many of our soldiers during the 
Great War. 

There is also a Newcastle in Maine. 

Newcastle, in Northumberland, claimed a number of ships by the name "May- 
flower." The inhabitants of this part of England took no active interest in the 
Puritan movement. 



NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 

"Whereas, It hath been a commendable practice of the inhabitants of all the colonies 
of these parts, that as this country hath its denomination from our dear native country of 
England, and thence is called New England, so the planters, in their first settling of most 
new plantations, have given names to those plantations of some cities and towns in England, 
thereby intending to keep up and leave to posterity the memorial of several places of note 
there, as Boston, Hartford, Windsor, York, Ipswich, Braintree, Exeter. This court con- 
sidering that there hath yet no place in any of the colonies been named in memory of the 
city of London, there being a new plantation within this jurisdiction of Connecticut, 
settled upon the fair river of Monhegin, in the Pequot country, it being an excellent har- 
bour, and a tit and convenient place for future trade, it being also the only place which 
the English of these parts have possessed by conquest, and that by a very just war, upon 
the great and warUke people, the Pequots, that therefore, they might thereby leave to 
posterity the memory of that renowned city of London, from whence we had our trans- 
portation, have thought fit, in honor to that famous city, to call the said plantation New 
London." 

THE above was the vote passed by the General Court on March 24, 1658, 
granting permission to the early settlers to use the name "New London." 
It had been the wish of these pioneers that their adopted town should bear the 
name of London, but there was a difference of opinion, some of the colom' prefer- 
ring the name of Faire Harbour. They persisted, however, in calling it by its earlier 
Indian names of Pequot and Nameaug until they finally had their wish gratified by 
being allowed to use the name they desired. It was quite natural that they should 
also want the river, which had been called up to that time "Monhegin" (often 



NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 139 

spelled Mohegan) changed shortly after the naming of the town (now a city) to 
the Thames for the English river so well described by Pope in these words: — 

"My eye descending from the hill, surveys 
Where Thames among the wanton valleys strays. 
Thames, the most loved of all the ocean's sons. 
By his old sire to his embraces runs." 

From the time that Block explored this coast and named the island "Block 
Island," probably no civihzed person landed on the shores of New London until 
Captain John Endicott went there in 1636, as he was returning to Boston from 
an expedition against the Indians, when he landed at Groton on the opposite side 
of the Thames. A year later the Stoughton expedition pitched camp at New 
London and built the first English house ever erected in the place. 

The settlement was formed in the year 1646 by the son of Gov. John Winthrop 
of Massachusetts, who bore the same name as his father. He was assisted by his 
friend Rev. Thomas Peters, a brother of the well-known Hugh Peters of Salem. 
The Massachusetts Court gave these two men authority to govern the plantation, 
although it was soon after decided that it did not come under the jurisdiction of 
Massachusetts, but belonged to Connecticut. We think it may be interesting to 
sketch the career of young Winthrop who, we are told, was a pioneer, traveler, 
scholar, statesman, lawyer, magistrate and physician. We first hear of him as 
advising his father to come to this country and it is very probable that he influ- 
enced his parent's decision. He was born in 1606 in the home of his ancestors in 
Groton, England. In 163 1 he was married and sailed for Boston the latter part 
of the same year, whereupon he busied himself with the founding of Ipswich, as we 
have described in our story on that town, where he hved until he took up his resi- 
dence in New London in the year 1647. In the meantime he made a trip to Eng- 
land in 163s, where he married again, returning to this country in the same year 
with a commission from Lord Saye and Sele, Lord Brooke and Sir Richard Salton- 
stall and others "to begin a plantation at Connecticut and be Governor there." 
This settlement he called "Saybrook" in honour of the two Lords who gave him 
the grant. It is also interesting to note that while forming this colony he coasted 
along the shore and visited the mouth of the Thames River, which he liked so 
much that he finally was induced to start a settlement at New London. He moved, 
however, none too soon to the Connecticut River, for hardly had his vessels ap- 
peared than the Dutch likewise hove in sight, but as the English flag and the 
English cannon had just been placed there ahead of them, they prudently turned 
back their prows towards New York. Winthrop remained "Governor of the river 
Connecticut, with the places adjoining thereunto" for the space of one year as 
commissioned by the patentees, then returned to the town of Ipswich which he 
had pre\-iously founded in the Bay Colony. Some years later he went abroad, 
returning in 1643 ^th workmen, tools and stock with which to take up the busi- 



140 



NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 




From a picture published by H. D. L'tley, Ne-.v London. Conn. /. ;/.,.,;. ,, i..- ,, ; /.. A -I,,. L..q, 

OLD TOWN GRIST MILL, NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT, 

established bj- John Winthrop, the younger, when he was chief magistrate of New London in 1650. It was 
used continuously until a few years ago. It is now owned by the city and is kept intact as an historic 
building. 

ness of smelting and refining iron at Lynn and Braintree, which, for a time, was 
prosecuted with zeal and success, thereby earning him the distinction of being the 
first person in the United States to engage in that business. In 1644 he obtained 
from the General Court of Massachusetts this grant "1644, June 28. Granted to 
Mr. Winthrop, a plantation at or near Pequod [New London] for iron works." 
As we have noted, he began the settlement of New London in 1646, estabHshing 
a town government the next year. His family also moved there the same year 
and has been represented in the community ever since. He was Governor of 
Connecticut by election in 1657 and in 1659 and every year after that until the 
time of his death in 1676, an honour conferred upon no other Governor of the 
State. Still another position had been thrust upon him in 1641, when Massa- 
chusetts sent him to the Court of St. James, where he showed great ability. He 
chose a tomb for himself in New London, but death overtook him on a visit to 
Boston and he was therefore buried with his father in the family vault in King's 
Chapel Cemetery. Henry Winthrop who resides in New London at the present 
time is a direct descendant of John Winthrop. 

The two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the settlement of New London was 
celebrated in May, 1896, on which occasion the corner-stone of the monument to 




From a pkotogrn-pk by Boston Photo News Co. 



ABRAIi.\iM LINCOLN 



The St. Gaudens statue, a replica of which was formally presented to the British nation by the Hon. 
Klihu Rout on behalf of the .\merican people, and unveiled in London by the Duke of Connaught 
on July 29, 1920. This is one of the latest connecting links between the Old World and the New. 



142 



NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 




from a photograph 



Kindness Ernest E. Rogers, Esq. 



STATUE OF JOHN WINTHROP, THE YOUNGER, IN NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT, 

unveiled in 1905. 

He was the first governor of Connecticut by appointment of the original patentees Lord Saye and Sele, 
Lord Brooke and others in 1635; also the first governor of Connecticut under the charter which he ob- 
tained from King Charles II in 1662. His father was John Winthrop, governor of the Massachusetts Bay 
Colonw 

In the background is the oldest cemetery in Connecticut, east of the Connecticut River, and in it is the 
Winthrop family tomb where he expected to be buried, but as he died while in Boston he was buried in 
King's Chapel Burying Ground, in his father's tomb. 

John Winthrop, the younger, was laid, and also the Soldiers and Sailors memorial 
was dedicated. Some years later, in 1905, Bela L. Pratt, the sculptor of his statue, 
received a telegram sa>'ing, "John Winthrop has arrived." The monument was 
unveiled the same year by Master Henry C. Winthrop, Jr., the youngest male de- 
scendant of the distinguished Governor bearing the name. The words on the 
tablet attached to the monument are as follows: 

JOHN WINTHROP 

1606-1676 

FOUNDER OF NEW LONDON 

MAY 6, 1646 

GOVERNOR OF CONNECTICUT 

1657; 1659-1676 



THE CHARTER OF CONNECTICUT 

WAS PROCURED BY HIM 

FROM KING CHARLES II 

APRIL 23, 1662 



NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 143 

TO COMMEMORATE 

HIS GREAT SERVICES 

TO THIS COMMONWEALTH 

THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT 

ERECTS THIS MONUMENT 

A.D. 1905 

Winthrop Square, where the statue now stands, is the most historic spot in New 
London, for it was here that the early settlers had a lookout post against the Indians; 
here also hung the first town's bell, the gift of John Winthrop's son, Gov. Fitz-John 
Winthrop, in 1698. (The town voted "to ring the bell every night at nine of the 
clock winter and summer," which custom of ringing the curfew is still in existence 
and has covered a period of two hundred and twenty-three years, with the change 
somewhere in the centuries from nine o'clock to eight o'clock on Saturday nights.) 
Here also was the site of the three successive meeting-houses where Blinman, 
Bulkeley, Bradstreet and Adams preached; and here in 1745, the troops assembled 
under Lieut. Gov. Wolcott previous to their sailing on the Louisburg E.xpedition. 

New London was one of the great whaling ports of New England and up to 
i860 this was the most important industry of the town. 

The bicentennial celebration of the First Church of Christ in New London took 
place in 1870, this year being chosen for the reason that the church records did not 
begin until the year 1670, although the church was founded some time before. In 
"The Early History of the First Church of Christ, New London, Connecticut" 
by Rev. S. Leroy Blake, D.D., published by him in 1897, when minister of the 
church, it is authentically shown that the church was organized in Gloucester in 
1642 and emigrated with its minister. Rev. Richard Blinman, from Gloucester, 
Massachusetts, in 165 1, to New London, with about fifty of its members. The 
present Blinman Street received its name from him. During the two hundred and 
seventy-nine years of its existence there have been but thirteen ministers. The 
organization of this church is four years older than the founding of the town. The 
First Church in Hartford, Connecticut, emigrated with its minister, Rev. Thomas 
Hooker from Cambridge, Massachusetts, in 1636, fifteen years previous to the 
arrival of Mr. Blinman and his flock in New London. 

We quote a few verses written by George Parsons Lathrop on the two hundred 
and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of New London on May 6, 1896. 

"The river whispered to the sea; 
' Bring me the men of destiny, 
The men of faith, the men of power, 
From whom shall spring a nation's flower!' 

Long, long the waves of ocean bore 
That message to its farther shore; 
At last from ancient realms there came 
The makers of the New World's fame. 



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NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 145 

Then in the warring Indian land, 
Brave Winthrop and his gallant band 
Hewed clearings; and from fallen oak 
Rose the first hearth-fire's signal smoke." 

New London will observe its two hundred and seventy-fifth anniversary on 
May 6th of this year (192 1). 

In speaking of the great city for which New London was named all we venture to 
do is to mention briefly the memorials and places there of interest to Americans, hav- 
ing been helped greatly in compiling the list by Dr. J. F. Muirhead of London. First 
of all is the recently dedicated statue of Abraham Lincoln in Parliament Square, a 
replica of the St. Gaudens statue in Chicago, of which we have included an illustration. 
Ne.xt in interest is the fact that Benjamin Franklin spent about a year and a half in 
London between December, 1724, and the fall of 1726, working as a printer, first with 
the firm of Palmer, established in what had been the Lady Chapel of St. Bartholo- 
mew's Church, and afterwards with Watts, in Wild Court, near Lincoln's Inn Fields. 
His first lodging was in Bartholomew Close, whence he removed to Duke Street, 
where he had a room at the modest rental of 1/6 a week. When he returned to London 
in 1757 in the more dignified position of Agent to the General Assembly of Pennsyl- 
vania, he found a home at 36 Craven Street, Strand, which he occupied for several 
years; there he wrote various humorous papers under the name of "The Craven 
Street Gazette." The only reminder of George Washington in London is a copy of 
Peale's full-length portrait of him which was presented to the Government by the Earl 
of Albemarle in 1919 and which hangs in No. 10 Downing Street, the residence of the 
Prime Minister, now occupied by Mr. Lloyd George. The associations of John 
Harvard and Captain John Smith with the city of London were mentioned in Part I. 

The visitor to London will find a monument in the Charterhouse to Roger 
Williams, founder of the State of Rhode Island ; also he may wish to see the church 
of Saint Ethelburga the Virgin in Bishopsgate, associated with Henry Hudson, who 
named the Hudson River. The American will surely visit Westminster Abbey, where 
he can see the window placed there in memory of Rev. Phillips Brooks, Bishop of 
Massachusetts, the bust of Longfellow by Brock, placed there by his English ad- 
mirers, and the medallion and stained-glass window to commemorate James Russell 
Lowell. There is also a monument in Westminster, beneath the Tower, to Viscount 
Howe, erected by the Province of Massachusetts, while still a British colony. Gen- 
eral Burgoyne, who capitulated to General Gates at Saratoga, is buried in the 
North Walk of the Cloisters of the Abbey. 

Ralph Waldo Emerson spent a night in Carlyle's House at 25 Cheyne Row, 
Chelsea, while visiting the city, and there is an interesting tablet and monument 
in Southwark Cathedral to William Emerson, a supposed ancestor. Washington 
Irving lodged in Bartholomew Close and was fond of e.xploring the nooks and 
crannies of Canonbury Tower. 



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NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 147 

The Chelsea Public Library contains a bust of Henry James and the Chelsea 
Parish Church has a memorial tablet in his honour. 

In front of the Royal Exchange is a statue of George Peabody by Story, a stone 
near the west end of the nave of Westminster Abbey marking the spot where the 
remains of this American philanthropist lay before being removed to Massachusetts. 
He lived in Eaton Square. 

William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, seems to have lodged in Holland 
House in Charles II's reign, ha\4ng lived also at No. 21 Norfolk St., Strand. He 
spent nine months in Fleet Prison rather than pay an unjust claim and was also 
confined in Newgate. He was born on the East Side of Tower Hill and was baptized 
in All Hallows, Barking. He attended Harsnett's Free School at Chigwell and 
lived from 1672 to 1677 in Basing House, High Street, Rickmansworth. He was 
buried at Jordans, together with his two wives and five of his children. 

The Pilgrim Fathers' Memorial Church in New Kent Road, the oldest Congre- 
gational church in London (1616), is also worthy of a visit. Another place of 
interest is the Parish Church, Gravesend, where the registers in the vestry contain 
the record of the burial of Pocahontas, the Indian princess who saved the hfe of 
Captain John Smith and who married John Rolfe. Two stained glass windows 
were placed there in 1914 to her memory by the Society of Virginian Dames, there 
being also a memorial tablet on the chancel wall. 

Edgar Allan Poe, of Baltimore, attended the school kept by the Misses Dubourg 
at 146 Sloane Street. He also went to school at Stoke Newington from 1817 to 
1819. Benjamin West Uved for forty-five years at 14 Newman Street; his studio 
is now St. Andrew's Hall. He was buried in the "Painters' Corner" at St. Paul's. 
J. M. Whistler died at 74 Cheyne Walk. He lived first at No. loi from 1S63 to 
1867 and then at No. 96 for twelve years, during which time the portraits of his 
mother and Carlyle were painted. He was buried in the burial ground of St. 
Nicholas Church, Chiswick, beneath a bronze altar tomb. A memorial to him by 
Rodin is to be placed in the gardens on the Embankment to the West of Albert 
Bridge. 

John Quincy Adams, sixth President of the United States, was married to Louisa 
Johnson in 1797 in All Hallows, Barking. Another marriage of interest to all the 
English-speaking peoples is that of Theodore Roosevelt to Edith Kermit Carew, 
which took place at St. George's, Hanover Square, in 1886. Charles Chauncey, 
vicar of Ware, who became President of Harvard College in 1654, is commemorated 
by a tablet in Ware Church, twenty-two miles from London. 

The recent death of Francis Hodson recalls to the minds of many Americans 
and Britons alike the devoted services of this Englishman, who had been acting as 
chief clerk in the American Embassy during the past thirty-five years. He was 
an international figure and it was said of him that he was "never in the way and 
never out of the way." His father, Charles Hodson, who died in 1906, occupied 



148 NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 

the same position for thirty years, during which time he served under eight American 
Ambassadors. Francis Hodson's brother, Edward, is to occupy this position now 
and will doubtless fill the post as his father and brother have done before liim, 
with ability, modesty and tact. 



OXFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 

WHILE Oxford, England, is universally known as one of the world's 
greatest seats of learning, it may be a surprise to many to read that 
there has been an Oxford in Massachusetts since 1683 when the settle- 
ment of Nipmuck was named for the famous English city. The first movement 
toward a settlement in the region now called Oxford was the petition of Hugh 
Campbell, a merchant of Boston, February, 1680, for land for a colony of Scotch 
emigrants. The petition was granted, but no effort seems to have been made to 
take advantage of it. Shortly after this, two prominent men of Boston, William 
Stoughton and Joseph Dudley, were empowered to purchase this land in the Nip- 
muck country and reported that with the Hassanamesit and Natick Indians they 
had agreed for all their land 

"lying fewer miles northward of the present Springfield road, & southward to that, haue 
agreed betweene Blacke James & them, of which wee aduised in our late returne, wee 
haue purchased at thirty pounds money & a coate. 

The southern halfe of said countrey wee haue purchased of Blacke James & company, 
for twenty pounds." 

It was undoubtedly at this time that the town received its present name. It was 
through an associate of these two men, Robert Thompson, merchant of London, 
England, that the Huguenots were induced to settle in this territory. He got into 
communication with Gabriel Bemon, who, though he never settled in Oxford, 
nevertheless was most active in making arrangements for the settlement of the 
Huguenots here. As a result, from La Rochelle, France, came a letter, dated 
October i, 1684, from a representative of the French Protestants there, who, like 
the Pilgrim Fathers before them, looked to America as a place of refuge from re- 
b'gious persecution at the time of the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The note 
in part was as follows : — 

"New England, the country where you live, is in great esteem; I and a great many 
others, Protestants, intend to go there. Tell us, if you please, what advantages we can 
have, and particularly the peasants who are used to the plough. If somebody of your 
country would send a ship here to bring over French Protestants, he would make great 
gain." 

To this plantation, then, which had been named for the English city where is the 
famous University at which many of the Pilgrim Fathers had received their col- 
legiate education, Hed bands of the persecuted Huguenots — chiefly from La Rochelle 



OXFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 



149 



and its vicinity. They endured 
great hardships to reach America 
and many died on the voyage, 
but the sturdy little band that 
remained arrived in Boston during 
the winter of 1686 and were hos- 
pitably received and cared for at 
Fort Hill, where they were fed and 
clothed, the scattered churches of 
the Massachusetts Bay Colony 
taking up contributions to meet 
the needs of the exiles. When 
spring came they took possession 
of Oxford, retaining its English 
name, as they liked it so well. 

Many famous names in the 
history of America appear among 
this first list of settlers, including 
Pierre Beaudoin, one of whose 
descendants, James Bowdoin, be- 
came Governor of Massachusetts, 
and Benjamin Faneuil, an ances- 
tor of Peter Faneuil, benefactor of 
Boston and donor of Faneuil Hall. 
Andre Sigournais was another 
prominent member of the original 
Huguenot community and his 
descendants, the Sigourneys, are 
well known in Boston and other 
parts of New England. Andrew 
Wolcott Sigourney, seventh in 
descent, still owns the old family 
homestead in Oxford. In 1884, 
Miss Myrtis S. Sigourney (now 
Mrs. WiUiam Bacon Scofield) 
unveiled a splendid monument 
Fort Hill erected by the 




Photographed by E. B. Luce 

HUGUENOT MONUMENT, OXFORD, M.\SS.\- 
CHUSETTS, 

erected in 18S4 by the Huguenot Memorial Society and 
unveiled by a descendant of Andre Sigournais, one of the 
most prominent of the founders of the town. Although 
the early settlers were French, they retained the name 
given to this territory by the English owners. 
Huguenot Memorial Society to 

perpetuate the memory of the Huguenots who made the first settlement at 
Oxford. At the period made famous by Longfellow in his "EvangeUne" several 
other French families also settled here. This town was the home of Clara Barton, 



on 



OXFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 151 

the famous Ci\il War nurse and organizer of our Red Cross, and here also Richard 
Olney, Secretary of State under President Cleveland, was born. Olney, by the 
way, was the last President of the Huguenot Memorial Society, no successor having 
been chosen since his death. 

Judge Sewall, that renowned "Pepys of New England," undoubtedly named the 
town and he did so because he remembered his rides over the familiar ground in 
England. He also changed the name of the neighboring town of New Roxbury to 
Woodstock, his reason for doing so being that there is a town of that name near 
Oxford, England. 

It is interesting to know that the name of Oxford was originally given by Prince 
Charles of England, later King Charles I, to the territory now known as Marshfield, 
Massachusetts, when he marked Captain John Smith's map of the New England 
coast made in 1614. 

There is also an Oxford in Maine and one in Connecticut. 

The city of Oxford, on that part of the Thames locally called the Isis, ranks 
among the most ancient corporations in England and its privileges are similar to 
those of the city of London. At the coronations of sovereigns the Mayor acted as 
Butler, next to the Lord Mayor of London, and received three mazers, or cups 
made of maple wood, as his fee until the last feast given by George IV in 1821. 
Since then no banquet has been given, and while the Mayor of Oxford retains his 
right he has no opportunity to use it, and, therefore, has no mazers to bring home. 

In 912 the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records: — 

"This year died Fathered Ealdorman of the Mercians, and King Edward took posses- 
sion of London and O.xford, and of all lands which owed obedience thereto." 

Its legendary history, however, goes back nearly two centuries earlier and starts 
with the tale of the holy Frideswide who founded a nurmery there. She is the 
patron saint of Oxford and one of the three crowned figures in the arms of Oxford 
diocese is supposed to represent this saintly personage. Churches and castles later 
sprang up, and the country became famous for its sport, and many of the Norman 
kings resorted to the forests which abounded in deer. Historians differ as to the 
origin of Oxford University, though it is generally acknowledged that the movement 
gained impetus from the intellectual activity that was so apparent in Paris at the 
close of the eleventh century, at the time that the head of the cathedral school 
there was William Champeaux. From migrations across the channel this college 
town of Oxford, which at that time was neither a cathedral nor a capital town, 
became reinforced by the flood of students that had been turned out of France, 
so that by the beginning of the thirteenth century Oxford ranked with the most 
important universities of Europe. 

There are many historic landmarks in this English city, the chief of which, 
however, the famous Osney Abbey, has been totally destroyed. "Great Tom," a 



152 OXFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 

bell weighing eighteen thousand pounds, a relic of this Abbey, is preserved in the 
"Oxford Tom Tower." Every night at five minutes past nine "Tom" tolls a 
curfew of one hundred and one strokes as a signal of the closing of the college gates. 
This tower was built in 1682 by the famous Sir Christopher Wren. Tom's time, 
through an old custom, is always five minutes later than Greenwich time, thereby 
giving tardy ones a leeway of five minutes in attending chapel, lectures and roll-calls. 

The most interesting building among the many in this classical center is perhaps 
the famous Bodleian Library, the most ancient part of which was built between 
1450 and 1480 to house the books w^hich had been given to the University by 
Humphry, Duke of Gloucester. It contains over a million bound \oiumes and 
about forty thousand volumes of manuscripts. By a copyright act it enjoys the 
right to a copy of every book published in Great Britain. 

Among the men who were natives of Oxford and who won distinction along 
various lines were Edmund Ironside, Richard Coeur-de-Lion, and King John. 
Cecil Rhodes, one of the most prominent of the famous graduates of the Univer- 
sity, is known to the present generation through his endowment of the Rhodes 
Scholarships which enable American undergraduates to obtain the advantages of 
an Oxford education at the expense of the endowment fund. 



READING, MASSACHUSETTS 

READING, Massachusetts, set ofl from Lynn in 1644 as "Redding," was 
named for Reading, England, by some of the early settlers of the town who 
- probably came from the English borough on the upper Thames, or from 
that vicinity, having first lived in Lynn on their arrival in this country. John 
Poole, one of the leaders, was perhaps responsible for the naming of the Mas- 
sachusetts town. Among the early settlers were Nicholas Brown, William Cow- 
drey, Thomas Parker, Thomas Marshall, John Pearson, John Damon, Jonas 
Eaton, Richard Walker, John Wiley and Thomas Kendall. Among later, but 
still early, comers whose names have been prominent in the town's history were 
the Bancroft, Temple, Upton, Nichols and Wakefield famihes. Some years ago 
Hon. Owen Ridley, former INIayor of the English Reading, became much inter- 
ested in the history of the Massachusetts town, made a visit here and was enter- 
tained by the late Chester W. Eaton, Esq., of Wakefield. Later Mr. Eaton and 
his daughter. Miss Emma Florence Eaton, who is connected with the Wakefield 
Historical Society (Wakefield having once been a part of Reading), visited the 
English Reading and Mr. Eaton published an interesting account of his visit in 
the "Memorial Volume of Ancient Reading" issued on the occasion of the two 
hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the Massachusetts town in 1894. At the time 
of this celebration Mr. Philip H. Turner, of Reading, England, carried on a corre- 



READING, MASSACHUSETTS 



I S3 




from an old print owned by Allan Forbes Formerly in the collection of J. II . SfrS, Essex, England 

READING ABBEY, READING, ENGLAND 

spondence with the Wakefield Historical Society, and when the Eaton family made 
this visit to the old town in England he gave them a most cordial reception. Mr. 
Eaton in his interesting account spoke particularly of the attractive ruins of Read- 
ing Abbey, which was at one time one of the most lordly of the ecclesiastical es- 
tablishments in England, and which is so well described by Miss Eaton in the fol- 
lowing lines of poetry written on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anni- 
versary referred to above: — 

' ' Now all has passed away 
Save these few stones, near which the Thames doth stately glide. 
Gone are thy black-robed monks with cowled heads, gone is thy day 
Of grandeur. Yet still the truths thou stoodest for must abide, 
To make us stronger, nobler; and so I feel, at last. 
That a precious blessing lingers in these ruins of the past." 

Mr. Eaton also wrote of the historic churches of the old town, including St. 
Giles's, a picture of which we have reproduced on the next page. Mr. Eaton ex- 
plains that Reading, England, dates back to the year 868, although some historians 
declare that the town formed a part of the Kingdom of Wessex, under the Saxons, 
towards the end of the fifth century. The name Reading is spelled in a hundred 
dififerent ways in the ancient English records and, like that of many English places, 
is probably derived from a Saxon clan name signifying the home of the sons of 



154 



READING. MASSACHUSETTS 



"Raed." the head of the clan. 
Men called Raed, precursors of 
the modern Reeds and Rcids, took 
their name from their complexion 
—the Reds, like the Whites, the 
Browns, etc. To us, of course, the 
name has lost any significance of 
this sort and remains simply a 
link connecting us with that 
seventeenth-century England out 
of which the fathers came. There 
was fought in 1163 a duel that 
has come down to us in history 
between Henry d'Esse.x and 
Robert de Montford, which took 
place in the presence of King 
Henry II. To that town once 
came John Bunyan, who preached 
the gospel, and there also is shown 
to the American visitor the hall 
where William Penn used to wor- 
ship. While there Mr. Eaton 
made a careful examination of the 
copy of the register of St. Mary's Church during the sixteenth and seven- 
teenth centuries and found a number of names that were equally well known 
in our Reading, such as Poole, Cowdrey, Parker, Bachellor, Brown, Swain, 
Townsend, Hawkes, Taylor, Foster, Walker, Marshall, Eaton, Davis, Goodwin 
and Pearson, many of whom comprised the early settlers of Reading in New 
England. The famous Huntley and Palmer biscuit factory is situated in Reading, 
England. 

The freedom of the borough was conferred in 1920 on Lord Reading, who had 
represented this locality in Parhament for over nine years, and who recently has 
been the British Ambassador to the United States. The American Ambassador, 
Mr. Davis, was present at the ceremony, during which he said, "No official repre- 
sentative of Great Britain has more truly interpreted the Enghsh people to the Amer- 
ican people, or more thoroughly won the admiration and affection of the American 
people than Lord Reading." Our Ambassador, referring to the recent visit of the 
Prince of Wales to America, said he verih' believed that in the recent history of 
the two countries no visit of greater promise, and certainly none of greater value, 
had occurred than that of the Prince to the United States, where he had been 
greeted with overwhelming enthusiasm. 




Photographed from an old print Kindness Ian ForbrS'Robertson, Esq 

ST. GILES'S CHURCH, READING, ENGLAND 



READING, MASSACHUSETTS 155 

The settlement of our Reading was made in 1639 under a grant ol land from 
the General Court to the town of Lynn, being called Linn Village. The name was 
changed to Redding in 1644 and the modern form "Reading" appeared in 1647. 
Territory north of the Ipswich River, extending to the southern border of Andover, 
was added by a special grant in 165 1. South Reading, the original first parish of 
old Reading, where the first settlement was made, was set off as an independent 
town in 181 2. North Reading, beyond the Ipswich, the original second parish, 
was incorporated as a town in 1853. The present Reading retains the ancient 
name and records. The early Reading, therefore, has become in our day three 
separate towns. The name of South Reading was changed to Wakefield in 1868, 
in honour of Cyrus Wakefield, a leading citizen identified with the industrial devel- 
opment of the town, and was not derived from Wakefield, England. 

There is also a Reading in Vermont. 



ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS 

"What mean these mad men, soon sayes one, 
Witlesse to run away 
From English beere to water, where 
No boon companions stay." 

CONSIDERABLE correspondence has been carried on between Rev. L. D. 
Hildyard, Rector of Rowley Church, Rowley, England, and the town of 
Rowley, Massachusetts, and we believe his letters, which we quote below, 
will give an excellent idea of the small but attractive English parish and will also 
show the love and interest Englishmen have for their offspring on this side of the 
water: — 

"England, Rowley, Little \\'eighton, Hull 
April 17, 1912 

Dear Sir: — 

In answer to your letter I am sending some photographs of Rowley Church and Rectory, 
and Little Weighton Village. There is nothing at Rowley e.xccpt the Church, Rectory, 
and farm and park. Little Weighton adjoins and you will find the pictures of it enclosed. 
Here and at Rowley no doubt resided the people who accompanied Ezekiel Rogers to 
America. I have also enclosed a photo of myself which is of no interest except that it 
happens that the Hildyards have held the 'Living of Rowley' since 1704 and Ezekiel 
Rogers only left in 163S. I believe the church is little altered since that date. It is 
supposed that Rogers took the Registers to America but I occasionally find a name later 
on of one or more of those who accompanied him. I have some small photos recently 
sent by a friend travelling in America of several buildings in Rowley (Mass.) but what I 
really want is a big picture of the town like a small one I have of ' Rowley from Prospect 
Hill.' You would know which you considered best and I should be quite satisfied with 
one good one in return for those I send as you have kindly suggested the question of ex- 
change. I want, if you are pleased to send it to me, to exhibit it in the village and perhaps 
to put it into one of the papers here. 



156 



ROWXEY, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a picture ^fnt to Kn:clry. Mu^iucnu.\ett\, "y kcv. L. D. iJiiiiyird (jj Ruiilcy, England Kindness Amos Everett Jeuett. i,s(f. 

ROWLEY CHURCH, ROWLEY, ENGL.\ND, 
in which Rev. Ezckiel Rogers preached for seventeen years before emigrating to Rowley, Massachusetts. 



ica). 



With all good wishes from me and the people of Rowley (England) to Rowley (Amer- 



Believe me, 



Yours sincerely, 



L. D. HiLDYARD." 



"Xov. 9, 1914. 
Dear Mr. Croit'dis: — 

I read vour kind message from the pulpit on Sunday to the Rowley (England) con- 
gregation and I have reason to know how deeply touched they were by it. It is indeefl 
gratifying to us to think that although we are separated by so many miles of ocean, and 
though we are all unknown to one another, yet you still have a corner in your hearts for 
the dear old place from which Rowley in America took its name. 

We have not progressed as you have. The Church in which Ezekiel Rogers ministered 
is still standing and the village and hamlets remain very much the same, I should imagine, 
as in the days of long ago. But we often think of those faithful ones, who in the time of 
Charles First were so beset that they determined to leave their all to maintain their re- 
ligious convictions. 

I have often regretted that there is no memorial of any kind here to Ezekiel Rogers. 
Before this terrible war began, we had an idea of erecting a window in the church, by 
which his name and work might be 'had in remembrance.' But alas! the war has put it 
out of the question. .-Ml we can spare now goes to the various Relief Funds, and we have 
reluctantly had to abandon the idea. 



ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS 



157 



It occurred to me when we 
were discussing the matter some 
time ago, how nice it would be if 
Rowley in America were to take 
an interest in the matter and pos- 
sibly to help us in some way. I 
know you will pardon me for making 
the suggestion for I dare say, like us, 
you are a 'poor community.' But 
it has been in my mind for some time 
to approach you on the subject. 
.Sometimes I have thought my dream 
would come true, and I have pictured 
a great dedication service at Rowley 
conducted by the Archbishop of 
York in the presence of representa- 
tives from Rowley in America — 
what a wonderful reunion it would 
be after two hundred and seventy- 
five years. As I say, it is only a 
dream, for the cost of such a memo- 
rial would be £150. 

Now you must forgive me for 
digressing in this manner from the 
consideration of your letter. You 
ask me for a word of sympathy and 
greeting from Rowley. Will you 
please tell your good people that we 
think of them here, and pray that 
God may bless them and him who 
ministers to them? 

Believe me. 

Yours very sincerely, 

L. D. HiLDYARD, Rector." 

A monument has been erected 
in Rowley Cemetery to the 
memory of Rev. Ezekiel Rogers, 
who was the founder and first 
minister of our Rowley. He with 
his company of about twenty 
families came in the ship "John" 
of London, sailing from Hull 
and landing at Boston, New Eng- 
land, December 2, 1638. The 
inscription on this monument is 
so interesting that we are repeat- 
ing it here: — 




From a pkotof^raph Kindnfjs Jmos Everett Jevett, Esfj. 

MONUMENT IN THE OLD CEMETERY IN 
ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS, 

in memory of Rev. Ezekiel Rogers, a founder and first 
minister of the town, who had been minister in Rowley, 
England, for many years. Our town was so named in his 
honour. He was a cousin of Rev. John Rogers, who came 
to Dedham, Massachusetts. Rowley, England, has for 
some time been considering the placing of a memorial to 
him there. This monument bears a most interesting in- 
scription, which is given in the te.xt. 



158 ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS 

Rev. Ezekiel Rogers, 

first minister of Rowley, 

Born at Wethersfield, Essex Co. 

England, a.d. 1590, a minister 

in Rowley Yorkshire 17 years. 

Came to this place with his 

Church and flock in April 

1639, died June 25, 1660. 

This ancient pilgrim noljly bore 

The ark of God, to this lone shore; 

And here, before the throne of Heaven 

The hand was raised, the pledge was given. 

One monarch to obey, one creed to own. 

That monarch, God; that creed, His word alone. 

Here also rest 
the remains of his wives. 

With him one came with girded heart, 
Through good and ill to claim her part; 
In hfc, in death, with him to seal 
Her kindred love, her kindred zeal. 

We are told that his sparkling wit, judgment and learning delighted his father so 
much that at the age of thirteen he was sent to Cambridge. Rogers had lived in 
Rowley, England, where he served as minister for seventeen years, his piety, wis- 
dom and eloquence causing people to flock to hear him from all the adjacent regions. 
Once, we are told, he preached in the stately Minster of York on a public occasion 
"which he served and suited notably." Rogers and his company wintered in 
Salem, Ipswich and Boston whence the}' began to look about for a permanent 
home, in the meanwhile attending services in Mr. Wilson's First Church in Boston. 
New Haven had made the colonists tempting offers, but they finally selected a 
place on the shore between Newbury and Ipswich where they, with about forty 
other families who had joined them, settled in 1639. The General Court ordered 
that the following vote be recorded in the State records and the words used 
appear on the present seal of the town: — 

"The 4th day of the 7th month, 1639. Mr. Ezechi Rogers' plantation shalbee called 
Rowley." 

The pleasant brt)()k which flows through the center of the town is said to have 
influenced them in choosing this site and they were probably also influenced by 
the accessibility to the "lectures" on either side of them in Ipswich and Newbury. 
Ezekiel's father was Rev. Richard Rogers and the following quaint lines con- 
cerning him have survived: — 

"How shall we passe to Canaan now 
The wilderness is wide 
Soe full of Tygers Beares and wolves 
And manv a beast besvde 



ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS 159 

He spared no labour of mynde 

Noe bodilie griefe nor payne 

That tended to his people's good 

And to his master's gayne 

When strength of leggs and feet did fayle 

On horseback he did ride." 

Re^■. Ezekiel Rogers was a cousin of Rev. John Rogers of Dedham, England, and 
Dedham, Massachusetts, a devoted and popular Puritan preacher, whose "lect- 
ures" were famous; while his brother Daniel was also a famous Puritan preacher. 
His family, therefore, was distinguished for its clerical services to the Puritan cause. 
In 1643, Mr. Rogers had the honour of preaching the election sermon, — "and 
the ability he showed on this occasion," said Cotton Mather, "made him famous 
through the whole country." He married for his second wife the daughter of 
Rev. John Wilson and for his third wife the widow Barker, who, as has been ex- 
pressed, "was in years agreeable to him." On the very night of his marriage, his 
house was burned to the ground with all his goods, probably all the church records 
and the library which he brought from England containing valuable books given 
to him by his father. The stout- 
hearted pastor, however, rebuilt 
his home and restocked his 
library. Again misfortune befell 
him, for he was thrown from his 
horse and his right arm was 
broken, causing it to be paralyzed 
for the rest of his life. Still 
undaunted, he learned to write 
with his left hand and continued 
active until his death which 
occurred in 1660, Old Style, (1661 
New Style). He continually 
preached against all evil fashions 
and guises of his age, both in 
apparel and "that general dis- 
guisement of long rufhan-like 
hair," as he expressed it. On 
his death he remembered his 
friends throughout the Colony 
and even in England and Hol- 
land. President Quincy com- 
memorates liim as one of the 
earUest benefactors of Harvard 
College. Part of his real estate 




From a photograph A;-. ■ .*/■■ F--r^;: ]-■•■ ■ 

COMMUXION CUPS GI\ E.\ BY Ri:\ . EZKKIEL 

ROGERS .\.ND OTHERS IN ROWLEY CHURCH, 

ROWXEY, M.\SS.\CHUSETTS 

Those given by Rev. Mr. Rogers were brought by him 
from England and given to the church in his will. 



i6o 



ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS 




from a pkotnuraph Kindness Amos Evernt jfzvftt. Esq. 

TABLET IN ROWXEY, MASSACHUSETTS, 

erected by the Jewett Family of America in 1912, in 
memory of Maximilian and Joseph Jewett, of Bradford, 
England, who came over in the ship "John" with Rev. 
Ezekiel Rogers, founder and first minister of the Massa- 
chusetts Rowley. 



was bequeathed to support the 
ministries in our Rowley and 
also in Byfield and Georgetown 
nearby. The last item of his 
will reads: "also to the church 
my silver bowls, which they 
used for the communion, to be 
so used still." These same 
bowls are still used at the first 
communion ser\ice each year, 
although they have been re- 
hammered and their shapes, there- 
fore, somewhat changed. Rogers 
was succeeded by Rev. Samuel 
Phillips, who came from the 
English town of Boxford, Almost 
directly across the drive from the 
Rogers monument in the cemetery 
is a memorial tablet, shown in 
one of the illustrations, erected 



by the Jewett family of America to the first two ancestors of this name who were 

buried in this cemetery. There are also stones placed here to the memory of two 

other early settlers in this New England town, John Trumble first of Roxbury, New 

England, and William Stickney, who came from Frampton, England, to Boston in 

1638, thence to Rowley. 

One of the interesting pieces of history connected with Rowley is the fact that 

the little town was able to supply cloth sufficient for the needs of the Colony, when 

the supply that had been brought over by the colonists from England had failed 

them. Johnson in his "Wonderworking Providence" speaks of this incident in 

these words: — 

"These people being very industrious . . . were the first people that set upon 
making of cloth in this western world, for which end they built a fulling-mill and 
caused their little ones to be ver>' diligent in spinning cotton wool, many of them having 
been clothiers in England." 

Governor Winthrop also records that in this manufacture "Rowley to their great 
commendation exceeded all other towns." The name of the pioneer in the manu- 
facture of cloth was John Pearson who shipped his cotton from Barbados, his 
mill continuing to be the property of his family for the next sLx generations. A 
cedar post that was brought from England and put into that first mill was still 
standing and in good condition at the beginning of this century; it was then cut 
up into rulers, which were deposited in museums and various other places. 



ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS 



i6i 




From a photograph sent to Rowley, Massachusetts, by Rev. L. D. Hildyard, of Rou-ley, England 

ROWLEY, YORKSHIRE, ENGLAND 



Kindness Amos Everett Jetfett, Esq. 



Rowley, England, in the East Riding of Yorkshire, is about seven miles from 
Beverley and is a small parish, for we learn that it consists chiefly of a church and 
a school. A \asitor on alighting at Little Weighton and inquiring for the town, 
received the reply to go "right awah to your right till you come to a gate." An- 
other traveler to the other side describes a visit to the old parish, where he met 
Rev. H. C. T. Hildyard, who hastened downstairs to put into the visitor's hands the 
ancient records and keys of St. Peter's Church, which dates back to the thirteenth 
century and contains a font that is a century older. A \-isitor gives in the New 
England Magazine this description of the church: — 

"A tiny side chapel contains a tablet to Sir Ralph Elleker and his three sons, Ralph, 
William and Robert, all four of whom were knighted on Flodden Field in 1513 for their 
gallantn,' in that battle. But my mind was full of another hero. I thought how this 
little church was once thronged to hear the true, brave words of Ezekiel Rogers, how dear 
its ancient memories must have been to one of his cultivated taste, and how he sacrificed 
all, including a very comfortable salary, rather than do violence to his conscience. The 
left part of the rector\', as shown in the accompanying illustration, was that of Ezekiel 
Rogers. The good rector himself is shown in another picture, beneath a venerable larch 
that probably had shaded Mr. Rogers. The Rowley living is now a family one, and Mr. 
Hildyard is to be succeeded by his nephew, Rev. Robert Hildyard. He will be the fourth 
of the name in the rectorship." 

An interesting relic among the Rectory heirlooms is a handsome blanket bearing 
the date 1733, which has been passed down to each successive Rector for one hundred 
and seventy-six years. 



l62 



S/VLISBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 

OF the New England towns, Salisbury ranks among the earliest, a settlement 
having been made at Merrimac on the INIerrimac River as early as 1638, 
one of the earliest settlers being Roger Eastman, the ancestor of all of 
that name in America, who sailed to this country from Southampton, England, on 
the ship "Confidence." The General Court two years later changed the name of 
this little settlement to Salisbury as several of the first colonists came from the 
EngUsh town of the latter name, among the number being the first minister, Rev. 
William Worcester. It is also believed that one of the deputies present at the 
session at which the town was named, was Christopher Batt, who came from the 
Enghsh SaUsbury. It has been said of the early settlers of the town that they 
"were men fitted by education to adorn any station" and by their foresight and 
care the town early became a pioneer along several lines — notably shipbuilding, 
and later, the slavery agitation. Here was born Daniel Webster's mother, Abigail 
Eastman, the daughter of Roger Eastman, who was a great-grandson of the early 
settler. 

There are also Salisburys in Connecticut, New Hampshire and Vermont. 

Salisbury, England, at the junction of the Avon and the Wily, is a cathedral 
city and the capital of Wiltshire. More than seven centuries ago the town and 
cathedral were transferred to their present location from the windy pinnacle of 
Old Sarum two miles distant, the direction of the removal, as the tradition goes, 
being determined by the flight of an arrow. The military and the clergy quar- 
relled, whereupon the bishops concluded that it was time to move to another local- 
ity, the present Salisbury (or New Sarum) being chosen for the site of the new 
cathedral, which is considered to be one of the fmest examples of earl}' linglish 
architecture, dating from 1220. The foUowing lines give in a novel way some 
statistics concerning the construction of the building: — 

"As many days as in one year there be, 
So many windows in this church you see; 
So many marble pillars here appear 
As there are hours throughout the fleeting year; 
As many gates as moons one here may view. 
Strange tale to tell, yet not more strange than true." 

The town soon grew in importance and in 1227 Henry III granted a charter to 
incorjjorate it, making it a free city. 

Queen Elizabeth, while on her way to Bristol in 1574, stopped at SaUsbury, and 
here, too, James I frequently came for retreat. When being taken in captivity 
and to eventual death in London, Sir Walter Raleigh, on reaching Salisbury, 
feigned madness and leprosy that he might gain an opportunity to write his immor- 
tal "Apology for the Voyage to Guiana." There King James found him and 



SALISBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 



163 



»• JR*7N<ltv'-?, 




THC CITY OF SALSSBUnr. 



From a print published by J. Brition, London, 



1827 

SALISBURY, ENGLAND, 

showing the Cathedral. 



Owned by Allan Forbes 



ordered his immediate removal to London. Charles I also came to Salisbury 
many times. 

It was at the King's Arms, still standing, that the supporters of Charles II 
were accustomed to gather when the monarch was in hiding at Heale House. A 
part of the Old George Inn was built about 1320. It was known in the early 
days as "Ye Grate Inne of Ye George," and it is said that Shakespeare may have 
played in the courtyard. Oliver Cromwell slept in the Inn in October, 1645, ^"d 
the indefatigable Samuel Pepys refers to it in his diary in these words: "Came to 
the George Inn where lay in a silk-bed and a very good diet." 

Nor should the literary associations of the old city be forgotten. There appeared 
the first edition of Goldsmith's "Vicar of Wakefield" and, in the house still stand- 
ing near St. Anne's Gate, Fielding lived for some time and there wrote a portion of 
"Tom Jones." The original Thwackum of the novel was one Hele, who was then 
master of a school in Salisbury, where Addison received his education "after start- 
ing life as such a frail infant that he had to be baptised on the day he was born." 
Anthony Trollope also laid the scenes of some of his novels there. 

During the war Salisbury Plain was the great training ground of the overseas 
forces of the British Empire and tens of thousands of Canadians, New Zealanders 
and Australians were constantly thronging the streets of Salisbury to which thou- 
sands of American soldiers, no doubt, also found their way. 



164 



SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS 



"There's a little grey-built town 
'Neath a windy western down, 
Where the streets of stone-roofed houses stand for centuries the same; 
In a lap of earth it lies 
Over-arched by Dorset skies, 
And a gush of crystal water gives it glory and a name. 

Mighty monarchs, warriors bold, 

Of whose feats the tale is told. 
Ruled and wrought there in past ages, though by men remembered not, 

Who with valiant deed, or wise, 

Lifted Sherborne to the skies. 
And their wsdom and their worth remain, the spirit of the spot. 

Great and famous were our sires: 

Let them be as beacon-fires! 
Nurse we well the glowing embers, lest their splendour be forgot. 

When the pomp has ebbed afar. 

And, like some forsaken star. 
O'er the heights beloved of Ealdhelm broods the Spirit of the spot!" 
(Part of the verses written by James Rhoades for the Pageant held in Sherborne, England, in 1905.) 

EARLY in 1905 Francis Bardwell, Esq., Town Clerk of Sherborn, Massachu- 
setts, wrote a letter to the Vicar of Sherborne, England, the substance of 
which we quote: — 

"Town of Sherborn, Inc. 1674 
Office of the Town Clerk, 
Settled 1652. Sherborn, Mass. 

To THE Rector of the Established CntrRCH, Sherborne, Eng. 

Dear Sir: Being Town Clerk of this town and knowing that it was called after the 
town of Sherborne m England, I write to ask you for information, feeling sure that you can 
either furnish it yourself, or place this communication in the hands of someone who can. 

This town was settled by Hopestill Layland, Thomas Holbrook, and Nicholas Wood 
or Woods. Do any of their names appear on the Parish Register or among the Church 
Records? 

Tradition has it that it was probably named in honor of Henn,' Adams, who was sup- 
posed to be a native of Sherborne, Eng. Other Incorporators were Morse, BuUen (or 
Bolyn), BuUard, Hill, Breck, Fairbanks and Perry. Do any of these names appear on 
vour records? Tradition again says that the word Sherborn is derived from the Sa.xon 
and means 'pure water,' which is singularly true in regard to this town; is this correct? 

I should very much like to know about our Mother Town, its foundation and history, 
in order to write down the facts and place them among our town records. 

Is there a history of your town that can be purchased? I would also like to purchase 
photographs of the Church and of all places of interest for our PubHc Library here. 

I write you because I think you will perhaps be interested somewhat in this little town 
of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay and because, when I was abroad in 1895, 1 was searcn- 
ing concerning my own family (the DeBerdewelles, of Bardwell, Suffolk) and I always 
found the Rectors and Curates willing and pleased to assist. . . . 

With great respect I have the honor to remain 

Your Humble Servant, 

Francis Bardwell, 

Tuwn-Clerk, Sherborn, Mass. U.S.A." 



SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS 165 

The answer from the EngUsh town spoke of a forthcoming pageant commemorat- 
ing the twelve hundredth anniversary of the founding of the town. This unex- 
pected result of the letter from our Sherborn encouraged Mr. Bardwell again to 
write to the mother town, as follows: — 

"Sherbobn, Mass. March 7th, 1905. 
To THE Hon. Secretaries, 

Sherborne Pageant, Sherborne, England. 
Gentlemen: — 

The kind letter with enclosures sent me by Mr. Field came duly to hand; I cannot 
tell you how pleased I was to receive the same. I have delayed in answering until after 
our Annual Town Meeting on March 6th, because I desired to read the letter to the towns- 
people there assembled, and request some action. Everybody was interested, and a 
Committee was immediately chosen to draw up greetings to the Mother town on the 
occasion of the 1 200th anniversary. These greetings will be forwarded to you shortly. 
I send you by this mail a copy of the Boston Transcript, in which I have called the atten- 
tion of the readers to the celebration. This paper has a very broad circulation, and reaches 
everyone interested in genealogical research in the United States. 

I cannot tell you how interested I am personally in this matter, and how much it 
means to this little town, which is, let me assure you, a worthy daughter of so illustrious a 
mother. 

The text of the Folk-play which Mr. Field so kindly sent me I shall have bound and 
placed in our Town Library. 

I wish it were so that some of our townspeople could be present at your celebration, 
and perhaps it can be arranged; anyway our hearts are with you, and we reach out to 
clasp your hands across the sea. 

BeUeve me, with the best of good wishes, 

Most sincerely, 

Francis Bardwell, 

Town Clerk of Sherborn." 

This note was followed in a few months by still another letter expressing the 
greeting of Sherborn, Massachusetts, on the twelve hundredth anniversary of the 
town of Sherborne, England: — 

"Sherborn, Mass. May 26, 1905. 
To THE Hon. Secretaries, 

The Sherborne Pageant, The Parade, Sherborne, Dorset. 
Gentlemen: — 

It is my pleasure to inform you that, for and in behalf of this Town of Sherborn, 
Massachusetts, I sent you today by the American Express our town's formal greeting 
on the occasion of the 1 200th Anniversary of the Foundation of the Mother Town. 

I regret exceedingly that our Town has not chosen an accredited representative to bear 
these greetings and to be with you at this time, for this anniversary means so much to our 
Town, the foundation of whose existence found root in English soil. 

When we look back upon the beginning of this Town and think of the character of its 
founders, and through them and their influence in the building of a second great English 
speaking nation, we have profound respect for the Mother Country which reared such 
sterling men. There is something firm, resolute, fearless, and trustworthy in the New 
England character, and this is our heritage from those who came from Old England to 
establish new homes in a strange land. 

So then at this time, one of the most remarkable epochs in the history of your ancient 



i66 SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS 

Town, when strangers throng your thoroughfares and marvel at your Historic Pageant, 
be assured that although an ocean separates us, still your kinsfolk in this little town, vour 
American daughter, feel pride in your great Anniversary, and wish you all joy in your 
festivities, and the heartiest sentiments of prosperity for your future. 
With much esteem, I have the honor to be 

Yours with respect, 

Francis Bardwell, 

Town Clerk of Slicrhoni." 

The formal greeting reads as follows : — 

"To THE Town of Sherborne, Dorset, England, 

From her American Namesake the Town of Sherborn, in Massachusetts. 

Greeting — Our forefathers, men of indomitable spirit and God-fearing ancestry, made 
their habitation in the wilderness, and, with the homefeeling strong within them, gave to 
their new abode the ancient name of Sherborn. We, their descendants, have received 
with filial pride tidings of the forthcoming celebration of the twelve hundredth anniversary 
of the founding of the Mother Town. Your glorious record of traditions and memories 
of a thousand years we deem our common heritage. 

We greet you on this memorable occasion with a message of esteem and good will, 
trusting that the ties of a common blood and a common tongue may, through the advanc- 
ing ages, more closely bind town to town and nation to nation. May the spirit that existed 
in the eighth century in Old England, and that in the seventeenth century found echo in 
the wilds of New England, be an inspiration to all our lineage. And may the coming years 
bring to all peace, prosperity, and happiness, by the grace of God, who for twelve hundred 
years has cherished the people of St. Ealdhelm's honoured town. 

Done pursuant to a vote passed at the annual town meeting held March the sixth, in 
the year of Our Lord, One Thousand Nine Hundred and Five. 

inhabitants of the Town of Sherborn, Massachusetts, 

By its Committee, 

Francis Bardwell, 
Robert H. Lel^nd, 
Charles O. Littlefield." 

This greeting from Sherborn was read by a herald on horseback at the end of the 
pageant, being received with great applause, and it was also read a second time in 
Sherborne Abbey. It turned out, however, that our town was represented in three 
different ways. First of all, a Miss Holbrook, who was a direct descendant of 
Thomas Holbrook, one of the original settlers of our Sherborn, went all the way 
from her home here in order to be present at the celebration in Sherborne, England. 
Secondly, — on one day of the pageant, Sherborn, Massachusetts, was officially 
represented by Lorin Andrews, Esq., U.S. Consul at Bristol, England. Thirdly, — 
it was discovered that the daughter of L. N. Parker, Esq., was a direct descendant 
of Richard Parker who originally owned the land comprised in our Sherborn that 
was sold to the immigrants who came from Sherborne, England. This interesting 
information was brought to light by Miss Holbrook and was not known, curiousl\' 
enough, at the time Miss Parker was chosen for one of the most important parts 
in the festi\al. It may be interesting to mention that Louis Napoleon Parker, Esq., 



SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS 



167 




From "Skrrbonr," published by McCann, Shrrborne Kindness Francis Bardwell, Esq. and Henry G. Vaughan, Esq. 

LONG STREET AND CONDUIT, SHERBORNE, ENGLAND, 

showing Sherborne Abbey in the background. 
At the pageant held in the English town in 1905, at which the Massachusetts Sherborn was represented, a 
message from the Massachusetts town was read in the Abbey. The New England town is spelled without 
the final "e." 

was the music master of the Sherborne School and is well known on account of being 
the author of the plays "Disraeli," "Rosemary" and "Pomander Walk." He was 
chiefly responsible for the great success of this celebration. The last scene of the 
pageant represented the English Sherborne with the British emblem and the 
American Sherborn with the Massachusetts coat of arms standing together on a 
pedestal, and below them were four girls carrying a model of Sherborne Abbey, while 
four boys dressed as Indians had with them a model of the "Mayflower." This 
picture is shown on the next page. The two towns then embraced while the band 
played "The Star-Spangled Banner" and "God Save the King." Many tableaux 
were presented which showed the history of the old town, among the most interest- 
ing being St. Ealdhelm receiving the pastoral staff from King Ina; Bishop Ealhstan 
defeating the Danes; Death of King Ethelbald; Bishop Ealhstan blessing the boy 
Alfred; Bishop Wulfsy and monks; William the Conqueror removing the See to 
Sarum; Bishop Roger of Caen laying the foundation stone of Sherborne Castle; 
Foundation of the Hospital of St. John; Sherborne School receiving its charter and 
Sir Walter Raleigh's arrival in Sherborne. Sir Walter Raleigh is closely associated 
with Sherborne, for it was in the castle given to him by Queen Elizabeth in 1599 
that he spent some of the happiest years of his life. Vicar W. F. Lyon in writing 




From the "Story of the Sherborne Pageant Produced in the Old Cattle Ruins at Sherborne in 

June, ipoi " 

By Cecil r. Godden. Barrister-at-Law 



Kindness Francis Barduell, Esq- 
and Henry G. Faughan, Esq. 



SHERBORXE, EXGLAND, AND SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS 

Einal tableau of a pageant held in Sherborne, England, in 1905, to celebrate the twelve hundredth anni- 
versary of that town. The lady at the right, holding the American llag in one hand and the arms of Mas- 
sachusetts in the other, is a descendant of Richard Parker, one of the original settlers of Sherborn, Massa- 
chusetts. One of the Indian boys is holding a model of the "Mayflower." The pageant was held on 
the grounds of Sherborne Castle. 



SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS 



169 




from a photograph by F. Frith &• Co., Stirrry, En^Lmd 

SHERBORNE CASTLE, 



SHERBORNE, 



Kindnfss Ian Forbes- Robert jon, Esq. 

ENGLAND 



The older part of this building was built by Sir Walter Raleigh. In these grounds the pageant of 1905 was 
held, at which time the Massachusetts town was represented, as shown in another illustration. 

from the Sherborne Vicarage in 1903 to our Sherborn told the story of the building 
by Sir Walter Raleigh of the present residence of the Lords of the Manor in Sher- 
borne. There is a seat in these grounds upon which Sir Walter was smoking some 
tobacco which he had just introduced into the country. The smoke exuding from 
his mouth caused his servant to think that his master was on fire, whereupon he 
threw a jug of beer over him to put it out. 

The word "Sherborne" is supposed to be derived from "Scir," meaning clear, 
and "Bume," meaning a brook or spring, the monks having called the place Pons 
Limpidus, signifying "the clear spring." In 705 a.d. it was the seat of a bishopric 
founded by Ina, King of the West Saxons, with his kinsman Ealdhelm, Abbot of 
Malmesbury, occupying the position of first Bishop of Sherborne. This English 
town, lying in the most picturesque part of Dorsetshire and once the capital 
city of Wessex, is celebrated to-day for its magnificent abbey, its flourishing 
school and its two picturesque castles. 

The pageant took place near the ruins of the old Castle which was founded by 
Roger of Caen, Bishop of Sarum and Abbot of Sherborne. 

Our Sherborn was settled in 1652 and incorporated in 1674 when it was first 
called Shearbom, the first settlement having been at "Bogestow." The present 



170 



SHERBORX, MASSACHUSETTS 



historian of Sherborn believes the name of his town was given in deference to John 
Hull, the "Mint Master," who owned an original grant of land. He was not bom in 
Sherborne, England, but his family was closely associated with Raleigh, who knew 
Sherborne so well. 



SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 

WILLIAM PYNCHON of the little parish of Springfield, England, would 
be pleased and doubtless much surprised if he could see the great city 
of Springfield, Massachusetts, which was founded by him. It would 
seem as if the people of our Springfield should place a special memorial to him in 
addition to the memorial in the Peabody Cemetery which has been dedicated 
to the Pynchon family. Some years ago, we are told by \V. F. Adams, Esq., 
President of the Connecticut Valley Historical Society, the children of one of the 
schools of Springfield subscribed eight dollars to start a fund to erect a proper 
memorial to this early pioneer. There are some additional funds amounting to 
one hundred and sLxty dollars which have been collected by the Historical Society, 




'iMflmimmTit •<, 

trom u piuAogrupn K\ndne>} II . 1 . ^/j-^ij, £iq. 

PYNCHON FAMILY MEMORIAL IN THE PEABODY CEMETERY, SPRINGFIELD, 

M.\SSACHUSETTS 

William Pj-nchon was rector of .\11 Saints Church in Springfield, England, and in his honour our city of 

Springfield, Massachusetts, was so named. 



SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 



171 




From a photograph Kindness W. F. Adams, Esq. 

.\LL SAINTS CHURCH, SPRINGFIELD, ESSEX COUNTY, ENGLAND, 

of which William P>-nchon, founder of the city of Springfield, Massachusetts, was warden, and after which 
All Saints Church, Springfield, jNIassachusetts, was designed and named. 

also a private subscription of one thousand dollars for this purpose and doubtless 
some day the rest of the fund will be raised by the people of Springfield. 

WiUiam Pynchon was educated at Oxford, was one of the patentees named in 
the charter of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay, dated 1628, and was connected 
■with the government of the company before it was transferred to America. He 
hved in Springfield, England, and while there was warden of All Saints Church for 
which All Saints Church in Springfield, Massachusetts, was named and from which 
it was also designed. He came over wdth his wife and four children in the "Jewel," 
one of Winthrop's fleet, in 1630 and during his first year in Massachusetts he founded 
Roxbury and became the treasurer of the colony. He believed that it was possi- 
ble to get large returns by trading with the Indians on the banks of the Connecticut 
and he recommended, therefore, that his fellow-townspeople estabUsh a new set- 
tlement there. Accordingly, the inhabitants of Roxbury in 1635 were granted 
leave to "remove themselves to any place they should think 'meet.'" 

Springfield possesses the original declaration dated May 14, 1636, under which 
the settlement was begun, a few settlers, however, ha\ing occupied the lands near 
here a year or two before. The names of the earliest settlers are William Pynchon, 
Miles Morgan, Henry Smith, Elizur Holyoke, Henry Burt, Lieutenant Thomas 
Cooper, John Pynchon, Deacon Samuel Chapin and Richard Sikes. Other impor- 
tant people in the town in later years were the Brewer, Dwight and Bliss families. 

This change to Connecticut proved profitable, for Pynchon was soon able to 



172 



SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 




From a pkntograph Kindness If'. F. Adams, Esq, 

ALL SAINTS CHURCH, SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS, 
named for the church of the same name in Springfield, England. 

ship to England more than one thousand dollars' worth of beaver skins. River 
fishing also became very profitable to these settlers, and at one time shad were so 
common that a man on being hired was compelled to agree to eat one shad a cer- 
tain number of times a week. 

In 1640 the name of the town was changed from the plantation of "Agawam" 
to Springfield, in honour, of course, of Pynchon, being therefore, the first town to 
be settled in Massachusetts west of Boston, Cambridge and Watertown. It is 
interesting to mention, perhaps, that for one hundred years after the settlement the 
Connecticut River was still spoken of as the "Great River." 

The latter part of William Pynchon 's life was unfortunate, for a book written 
by him that appeared in London, England, was so severely criticised that he was 
forced to leave this country permanently and to return to England in the year 
1652. Much correspondence ensued between England and our Springfield with 
the final result that the book was burned in Boston by order of the General Court. 

Pynchon bought land in Wraysbury, just below Windsor Castle, where he lived 
until he died in 1662. We give a picture of the Pynchon tablet placed in the 
church in Writtle, England, and also another showing the interior of the church 
in Wraysbury, England, where William Pynchon was buried. Pynchon's son, 
John, took his father's place in Springfield, Massachusetts, and it has often been 
said that they have been to that city what the Adams family has been to Massa- 



SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 



173 




From ''Springfield" by Mason A. Green 



THE PYNCHON TABLET IN 
WRITTLE, ENGLAND, 

to the memory of ancestors of William 
P>Tachon. 



Kindness W, f, Adams, Esq. 



INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH IN WRAYSBURY, 
ENGLAND, 

where William Pynchon, founder of Springfield, Mas- 
sachusetts, is buried. 



chusetts and to the country. It is also an interesting fact that the Pynchon family 
is still prominent to-day in Springfield, Massachusetts, and as there are fourteen 
towns in this country named for Roxbury and thirteen towns named for Spring- 
field, William Pynchon deserves a foremost position in the history of New England. 
The first minister of the Springfield colony was Rev. George Moxon who was 
installed as pastor in 1638. The first parish meeting-place was not erected, how- 
ever, until 1645, and it is said to be the first building devoted to religious worship 
in this State west of Boston and its vicinity; it was, of course, the beginning of 
the First Church of Springfield, the present church building not being erected 
until 18 19 when Court Square was laid out as a park. Near this church, on State 
Street, is the well-known St. Gaudens statue of "The Puritan" erected by Chester 
W. Chapin, Esq., in memory of Deacon Samuel Chapin, one of the founders of 
the city. Deacon Chapin was one of the first selectmen, was deacon of the first 
church and, with Pynchon and Elizur Holyoke, was one of the first magistrates of 
the town. In Court Square is also a statue of Miles Morgan of Bristol, England, 



SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 175 

one of the pioneer band who with Pynchon and Chapin settled in the town in 
1636. It is interesting to mention that Miles Morgan married in Beverly, Massa- 
chusetts; and it is said that the bride and groom were obliged to return to 
Springfield on foot carrying with them muskets and household articles. 

Traflic on the Connecticut River has been discussed continually and at one of 
the Springfield celebrations this poem, written by Charles H. Barrows, Esq., en- 
titled "To the New Connecticut," was read; it gives a very exaggerated idea, 
however, of the possibilities of navigation on this fine river: — 

"Let every sleeper waken 
And all the waking shout, 
Let measures prompt be taken 
To dredge the harbour out. 

Then silent keep, O doubter. 

We all shall live to see 
A thoroughfare by water 

From Springfield to the sea. 

Soon the white wings of Commerce 

Will at our port be found, 
And as one sign of promise 

We will let Long Island 'Sound.' 

We'll keep sperm whales, we dreamers, 

In flocks, at Windsor Locks, 
When European steamers 

Tie up at Springfield docks." 

Springfield, England, is the eastern suburb of Chelmsford. Here is situated the 
County Gaol, a gloomy building enlarged in recent years for the accommodation 
of the "guests" consigned to it, but once past this depressing place Springfield is 
pleasing and cheerful. Its long street, where the quaint sign of the "Three Cups" 
stands out, gives place to suburban villas with their attractive grounds. The 
parish church of All Saints is shown on page 171. Goldsmith lived in the town for 
some time while writing "The Deserted Village." 

Other New England towns by the name of Springfield are in Maine, New 
Hampshire and Vermont. 



176 



o 



STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT 

LIVER WENDELL HOLMES wrote the following poem which was read 
at the dedication of the Shakespeare Memorial Fountain at Stratford-on- 
Avon in the year 1887: — 

' ' Land of our Fathers, ocean makes us two, 

But heart to heart is true! 
Proud is your towering daughter in the West, 
Yet in her burning Hfe-blood reign confest 
Her mother's pulses beating in her breast. 
This holy fount, whose rills from heaven descend, 

Its gracious drops shall lend — 
Both foreheads bathed in that baptismal dew, 
And love make one the old home and the new!" 

On this occasion Henry Irving made the principal speech and there was also read 
a letter from James Russell Lowell, which expressed his beUef that the dust that is 
sacred to the EngUshman is not the less sacred to the American. This memorial, 
the gift of George W. Childs of Philadelphia, during the jubilee year of Queen 
Victoria, was placed in the old Rother Market, not far from Shakespeare's birth- 
place in Henley Street. One of the inscriptions on this fountain records these words 
of Washington Irving: "Ten thousand blessings on the bard who has gilded the 
dull realities of hfe with innocent illusions." 

Other places of interest to the visitor in this ancient Warwickshire town, besides 
the birthplace and the fountain, are Anne Hathaway 's cottage; New Place, where 
once stood the house in which the dramatist lived and died; the Shakespeare Memo- 
rial Theatre, Library and Picture Gallery, where performances of his plays are given 
each year on his birthday — the dramatic season extending over three or four weeks; 
and his tomb in Holy Trinity Church, visited each year by thousands of tourists. 
It may be of interest to mention that in the south end of the Clopton Chapel of this 
church is a window, which was bought with contributions made by visitors from the 
United States, and is hence known as the American window. Of the Americans 
who have been fascinated by the old town, we may mention Washington Irving and 
Nathaniel Hawthorne, who spent much time lingering "on Avon's banks, whose 
streams appear to wind with eddies fond round Shakespeare's tomb," to quote 
from a poem written by John G. Cooper. This beautiful river in its relation to 
Shakespeare is also well described by Longfellow: — 

"Flow on, sweet river! like his verse 
Who lies beneath this sculptured hearse; 
Nor wait beside the churchyard wall 
For him who cannot hear thy call." 

Washington Irving has made famous the Red Horse Hotel where he so often stayed 
and where he wrote his "Sketch Book." There is also the Shakespeare Hotel, 



STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT 



177 



the building dating back to 
the fourteenth century. Its 
old sign upon which appears 
Shakespeare's portrait and this 
legend, "Take him for all in 
all, we shall not look upon 
his Hke again," is now shown 
inside the hotel. Even the 
bedrooms are named after some 
of his plays, while the bar was 
once, and probably still is, 
decorated by these appropriate 
words, " Measure for measure." 
Another point of interest, of 
course, is Harvard House, the 
early home of the mother of 
John Harvard, described in 
Part I under Cambridge. 

It is told on good authority 
that the great American show- 
man, P. T. Barnum of Bridge- 
port, Stratford's neighboring 
city, once endeavored to pur- 
chase Shakespeare's birthplace 
to exhibit at his circuses in 
this country, while at another 
time some German professors 
asked permission to examine 
Shakespeare's brain to deter- 
mine whether its size was 
in proportion to his genius. 




U^^ _ 

I'h.'l'C^raphcd hy DnugLl. 
Sir atjord-un- Avon 

SHAKESPEARE 



McM 



Roberisorty Esq, 



FOUNTAIN, STRATFORD-ON-AVON, 
ENGLAND, 

presented by George \V. Childs, of Philadelphia. It was dedi- 
cated in 1887, the jubilee year of Queen Victoria, the principal 
speech being made by Henry Irving. A letter from James 
Russell Lowell was read at the dedication, as well as a poem 
written especially for the occasion by Oliver Wendell Holmes. 



This last request was made 

in spite of the fact that the poet himself is said to have requested that this verse 

should be cut on his tombstone: — 

"Good frend for Jesus sake forbeare. 
To digg the dust encloased heare: 
Bleste be y' man y' spares thes stones, 
.\nd curst be he y' moves my bones." 

The Connecticut town is mindful of the fact that it is named for William Shake- 
speare's home across the seas and, in his memory and as a further recognition of 
the common literature and heritage of the two countries, the donor of the Stratford 



178 



STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT 




Photographed by George B. Brayinn From 'in old drau-inf^ by J. Brandard, owned by J. Murray Forbes, Esq. 

SHAKESPEARE'S BIRTHPLACE, STRATFORD-ON-AVON, ENGLAND 



Library, Birdseye Blakeman, a native son of the New England Stratford, placed a 
Shakespeare rose window, with the poet's bust in the center, in the Library when 
it was built in 1896. This building, which is situated near the old burial place 
that was set off in 1670, contains a tablet with this inscription: — 

IN MEMORY OF 

Six generations of ancestors 

residents of Stratford 

posterity of 

Rev. Adam Blakeman 

1598-1665 

Dea. John Birdseye 

16x6-1690 

This ground was dedicated 

and this house built 

by 

Birdseye Blakeman 

1824-1S94 



STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT 



179 




: pholografh Kindnrs! Miss Fraturs B. Ruiirll 

STRATFORD LIBRARY, STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT 

The Shakespeare window shown in another illustration is the circular window appearing above. 

This earliest Blakeman ancestor was a graduate of Oxford University and was such 
a learned man that he believed the English language was not a suitable vehicle to 
express a scholar's work, preferring Latin like many others of his day. Another of 
the earUest settlers in this Connecticut town was William Beardsley, who Hved in 
the English Stratford during the days when Shakespeare was alive; who probably 
when a boy witnessed the bard's funeral and who is said to have brought across 
the waters the name of Stratford for our town. A few years ago his connection 
with Stratford-on-Avon was established by one of his descendants, Mrs. Margaret 
Beardsley De Lacour, a native of the Connecticut Stratford, who found his record 
in the parish register there. The town of Avon in New York State was named 
for the English river by descendants of Beardsley. Other well-known names of 
the earliest settlers are Curtiss, Fairchild, Hurd, Peat, Sherwood, 'Wells and Wil- 
coxson. Two other Englishmen who took a great interest in the New England 
town were Thomas Welles and his brother John, who are ancestors of this family 
now living in our Stratford. It may be of interest to record that the first wife of 



i8o 



STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT 



sfiEai'?!!** 






1^ '^8SSSS8F /f 



om a photograph 



Kindness Miss Frances B. Russell 



Thomas Welles (who became a 
governor of Comiecticut) was 
Elizabeth Foote, daughter of John 
Dening of England, who is sup- 
posed to have been related to 
Shakespeare. A further proof of 
this relationship is the fact that 
Dame Elizabeth, wife of Sir John 
Berrod and grand-daughter of the 
celebrated poet, requested in her 
will that £50 be given to her 
cousin Thomas Welles. 

In the record of the descend- 
ants of the widow Elizabeth Cur- 
tiss who settled in Stratford, 
Connecticut, 1639-40, which was 
compiled by Frederic Haines 
Curtiss, Chairman and Federal 
Reserve Agent of the Federal 
Reserv'e Bank of Boston, is 
found the following: "John 
Curtis of London, England, had 
his coat of arms described below, confirmed May 9, 1632, just forty-two days 
before William Curtis of Ro.xbury sailed for New England." In a note of the 
inhabitants of Roxbury 1638-40 appears the name of John Corteis, but in 
1639 John Curtis was a resident of Wethersfield, Connecticut. In 1640 John 
Curtis left Wethersfield for Cuphag (Stratford) and his name disappears, but 
we find the widow Elizabeth Curtiss and her two sons on the earliest records 
of Stratford. The records of the College of Heraldry in London, England, 
show that the coat of arms was confirmed to John Curtis of London, Gent., 
son of William Curtis of Hatton in the county of Warwick, Gent., son of 
Eustace Curtiss of Malestock — spelled also Makestock and Makestoke — in the 
said county, Gent., son of William, who was son and heir of John Curtis of 
Malestock aforesaid, Gent. 

The Curtis family was from all accounts one of the most prominent among the 
first settlers of Stratford and it has been claimed that they suggested naming the 
town after Stratford-on-Avon, England. If this be true, it adds another proof 
towards the acceptance of the pedigree with the coat of arms, for Makestoke and 
Hatton were but small hamlets and Stratford-on-Avon was the nearest town of any 
size. That the name of Curtiss was well known in Shakespeare's town is shown 
by the fact that the poet used it for one of the characters in "The Taming of the 



SHAKESPEARE WINDOW IN THE STRATFORD 
LIBRARY, STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT, 

placed there by Birdseye Blakeman, donor of the librarj', 
who was a descendant of Rev. Adam Blakeman, one of 
the earliest settlers in this New England town. 



STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT i8i 

Shrew." Thomas Alsop and Richard Booth are also supposed to have been natives 
of Stratford-on-Avon, and as the Earl of Warwick had letters patent to that part 
of Connecticut, it is more than probable that many of the early settlers throughout 
the colony were from Warwickshire. The Beardsley, Booth and Curtis famihes 
are still largely represented in the Connecticut town, there being at least twenty- 
five families of the latter name. Judge Howard J. Curtis of the Supreme Court of 
Connecticut, who is also the President of the Stratford Library Association, is one 
of the many descendants. 

The Art League in the nearby city of Bridgeport, once part of Stratford, Con- 
necticut, has recogm'zed the city's former coimection with old Stratford by build- 
ing in Beardsley Park a reproduction of the Anne Hathaway Cottage. 

In 1896, Rev. N. Ellsworth Cornwall, then Rector of Christ Church in Stratford, 
Connecticut, visited the EngHsh Stratford and preached in Holy Trinity Church 
where, in the chancel, lie the ashes of the famous poet. On leaving, he was pre- 
sented by the Vicar, Rev. G. Arbuthnot, with a flag of the Church of England and 
a tile from the chancel of Trinity Church which was then being repaired; the tile 
has attached to it the following presentation: "This ancient tile was found under 
the stalls of Stratford-on-Avon Church when the chancel was restored a few years 
ago. It is presented to the Rector of Stratford, Connecticut, N. Ellsworth Corn- 
wall, by the Vicar of Stratford-on-Avon, G. Arbuthnot, who hopes that it may be 
preserved as a sHght mark of the unity and concord which prevail between the 
Episcopal Church of America and the Church of England. XII Sunday after 
Trinity MDCCCXCVI." 

Christ Church celebrated its bicentennial in 1907 and at that time the Rev. G. 
Arbuthnot sent the following letter of greeting to the Rev. N. Ellsworth Cornwall: — 

"The Vicarage, 
Stratford-on-Avon, 
May 18, 1907. 
Rev. N. E. Cornwall, 
Christ Church Rectory, 
Stratford, Conn., U.S.A. 
My dear Rector, 

I am much obliged to you for sending me the paper with the most interesting account 
of the proceedings at Stratford in connection with its anniversary, and I write to extend 
to you and to your congregation the fraternal greetings of Stratford in the Old Country. 
I hope we may some day have the pleasure of seeing you here again, and when that takes 
place that you wiU spend a Sunday with us and occupy my pulpit. It is indeed pleasant 
to think that the membership of the one Catholic Church can bridge over so many miles 
of ocean. 

With kind regards and renewed thanks for your remembrance, I remain, 

Yours very truly, 

G. Arbuthnot." 

Some years later, in April 191 1, at the aimual Shakespeare festival in Stratford- 
on-Avon, Mr. H. Snowden Ward, a well-known lecturer on Shakespeare, carried a 



iS2 STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT 

greeting to the Shakespeare Club of the English town from a number of Shakespeare 
Clubs in America, including the one in Cambridge, Massachusetts, the Twentieth 
Century Club and the Art Club in Boston, Massachusetts, and the Stratford Library 
in Connecticut. At this meeting Mr. Ward declared that he represented Strat- 
ford, Connecticut, the first of this name in America. This New England town at 
the same time sent a wreath to be placed on Shakespeare's tomb and also two greet- 
ings in verse written by residents of our town. One of the greetings was written 
by Arthur Powell, a resident of the Connecticut Stratford, who was born in War- 
wickshire and who is a descendant of the Quincy family, one of whom. Thomas 
Quincy, married Judith Shakespeare. He, therefore, can claim relationship with 
Shakespeare. The other greeting was written by Louise de Forest Shelton and is 
quoted below: — 

"A Greeting to Stratford-ox-Avon 

FROM Stratford, Connecticut, U.S.A. 

From this Stratford in New England 

Send we greeting o'er the sea 

To old Stratford-on-the-Avon 

For this week's festivity. 

As you honour the great Poet 

We would send our homage, too. 

From this small New England village — 

Stratford Shakespeare never knew. 

But we treasure on our bookshelves 

Shakespeare's spirit — heart and thought — 

And we feel a closer kinship 

For the name the Settlers brought 

From that England where our forbears 

Lived and loved, before they came 

To this strange and unknown country, 

Bringing a familiar name. 

As you sing the Poet's praises. 

We in spirit join the throng — 

From this Stratford of the New World 

Comes an echo of your song. 

Kinship, friendship, even greater 

Is the tie that binds us fast — 

Proud are we to be the namesake 

Born from out so great a Past." 

There is also a Stratford in New Hampshire. 



i83 



SUDBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 



WHEN Sudbury celebrated its two hundred and fiftieth anniversary, the 
presiding officer introduced Dr. Brooke Herford, an Englishman, then 
minister of the Arlington Street Church, Boston. "I know," said the 
presiding officer, "one fact that interests us to-day, and that is that the name of 
our town of Sudbury was taken from the town of Sudbury in England. Our 
settlers were Englishmen; we are descendants from these representative men, and 
we are fortunate to-day in having with us an Englishman, a representative English- 
man. . . . Dr. Brooke Herford." Dr. Herford in his response emphasized this 
fact: "I am here to answer for England, as I have been chosen for that purpose. 
In the speeches that have been made it seems to me that England has most of the 
glory for what has been done, for it was carefully emphasized that they were 
Englishmen who came to settle this part of the country." 

To the rich lands bordering the Musketahquid, now the Sudbury River, English 
settlers came in 1638, having previously made plans in Watertown for forming this 
settlement. The land was purchased from the Indians, and the town incorporated 
in 1639, being called Sudbury for the mother town in England. Of a splendid 
type of the historic Puritan were these pioneers in the region of Musketahquid — 
men of such sterling quahties as Walter Haynes, Peter Noyce, John Blandford, 
John Bent and John Rutter, all of whom were passengers in the ship "Confidence" 
that sailed from Southampton, England. 

To-day the historic town of Sudbury is sought by visitors from many lands, 
and the old Wayside Inn, one of the most delightful places of interest in the town, 
is made memorable by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow in these words: — 

"One autumn night, in Sudbury town, 
Across the meadows bare and brown. 
The windows of the Wayside Inn 
Gleamed red with firelight through the leaves 
Of woodbine, hanging from the eaves 
Their crimson curtains rent and thin. 
As ancient is this hostelry 
As any in the land may be, 
Built in the old Colonial day. 
When men lived in a grander way. 
With ampler hospitality; 
A kind of old Hobgoblin Hall, 
Now somewhat fallen to decay, 
With weather-stains upon the wall, 
And stairways worn, and crazy doors, 
And creaking and uneven floors. 
And chimneys huge, and tiled and tall." 

There is also a Sudbury in Vermont. 

Sudbury, England, is in Suffolk County, and is principally noted for its three 



1 84 



SUDBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 




Fhotosraphed by CharUs f. Erneny Kindness Ian Forbes- Robertson, Esq. 

GAINSBOROUGH'S BIRTHPLACE IN SUDBURY, ENGLAND 

historic churches. St. Gregory's Church attracts the most attention for it is 
reputed that here reposes the head of that unfortunate Simon of Sudbury, the 
Archbishop of Canterbury, who was beheaded in 1381 by Wat Tyler's mob. He 
had previously rebuilt much of this church in which the head is so often viewed by 
the curious and lovers of the grewsome. His body is laid beneath the altar-stone 
in Canterbury Cathedral. St. Gregory's Church stands on the site of an earlier 
Saxon church of wood. A curious tombstone dated 1706, in St. Anne's Chapel 
commemorating a certain Thomas Carter, states that on the day on which he 
breathed his last "a Sudbury camel passed through the eye of a needle." 

Old Sudbury's greatest man was the son of a clothier and has come down in 
history as Thomas Gainsborough, the painter. He was born there in 1727 in 
the house shown above and there is also a statue of him in the town. At 
the back of this building was an orchard from which fruit was constantly being 
stolen and no one was able to catch the thief. Gainsborough early in life proved 
his deftness with a pencil, by sketching the man as he scaled the fence to climb a 
pear tree. The young artist had risen early to work in a summer house that ad- 
joined the orchard and thus had a very good view of the thief. His sketch was 
so realistic that every one recognized it as a Sudbury man and ever after the picture 
was known as "Tom Peartree's Portrait." When the painter became famous he 
frequently returned to his native town, and many of his paintings are called "a 
view near Sudbury." In the Grammar School are his initials deep cut beneath a 
caricature of his master, and his birthplace still stands in the town. 



SUDBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 185 

The name "Sudbury" is of Saxon origin and comes from South Burgh. 
Records show that its charter was granted during the reign of Queen Mary. The 
town contains some beautiful examples of timbered houses with overhanging 
upper stories. 

TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

"We cannot name them in our song, 
But cherish in our heart, 
And in old Taunton's fair renown 
Would bear a filial part." 

(Part of a poem written by Mrs. Eleanor S. Deane on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary 
of the settlement of Taunton.) 

IN 1890 Judge Edmund H. Bennett, first Mayor of Taimton, Massachusetts, 
visited Taunton, England, this being one of the first, if not the first, of the 
visits of ofiicials of one Taunton to the other. We give on the next page a 
reproduction of a photograph taken at Dunster Castle showing Judge Bennett on 
the steps of the Castle with officials of the Enghsh town by whom he was very 
hospitably entertained. This picture now hangs in the office of the City Clerk, 
Taunton, Massachusetts. 

On September 13, 1900, Mayor William Alfred Wrerm of Taunton, England, 
visited our Taimton to convey the respects of his borough, and to do honour 
to the early settlers of our town, who on March 3, 1639, settled here, chang- 
ing the name from Cohannet to Taunton, as they expressed it, "in honour 
and love to our dear and native country." His visit may have been made 
in response to the cable sent some months before by the Aldermen of our 
Taunton, which read as follows: — 

"Ordered that in consideration of the fact that the Taimton and Somerset Society of 
London, England, holds its annual meeting on May 2nd, and that the Society represents 
the ancestry of many of the citizens of Taunton and vicinity, the greetings and best wishes 
of the Mayor and Board of Aldermen of Taunton, Mass. be cabled to that Society." 

Mayor Wrenn was enthusiastically received and presented the following resolutions 
as an expression of good will from his native town: — • 

"The Council of the Borough of Taunton, England, take the opportunity of the con- 
templated visit of their Mayor to Taunton, Mass. U.S.A. of continuing the friendly inter- 
communication which has for some years past taken place between the two towns, by 
sending friendly greetings and e.xpressing a hope that continued and increased prosperity 
and happiness is being bestowed upon the citizens of Taunton, Mass. More particularly 
is the occasion taken advantage of, to accept most gratefully the kind and spontaneous 
e.xpression of sympathy by the people of Taunton, Mass. with England in the dreadful 
war in So. Africa. The substantial contribution sent by the people of Taunton, Mass. 
in aid of the funds collected in England for the widows and children of soldiers who have 
lost their li\'es through the war, has awakened feelings of gratitude and affection not only 
in the town of Taunton, England, but amongst the EngUsh people." 



i86 



TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS 




l-ram a fkutograph l« the office of the City Clerk, Taunton. Mus^chu^t:::. Kifldnisi Edain A. Tetlo:i\ Eiq. 

JUDGE EDMUND H. BENNETT, FIRST MAYOR OF TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ON A 
VISIT TO DUNSTER CASTLE, NEAR TAUNTON, SOMERSETSHIRE, ENGL.\ND, 

as the guest of the Corporation officials of that town in 1890. Judge Bennett is the third figure from the 

left in the second row from the top. 



Our Mayor presented to the distinguished visitor a beautiful silver loving cup as 
a token and memento of his happy visit to the city and a few days later our Com- 
mon Council addressed the following lines to the mother town : — 

"Whereas on September 13, 1900, His Worship William Alfred Wrenn of Taunton, 
England, visited us bringing with him a message of friendship, fraternity, and good-will 
from the citizens and governing body of that city, which he presented with elociuent and 
instructive words, now be it Resolved, that Taunton in New England through \-ote of its 
Council express its heartv appreciation of the sentiment contained in the message, and the 
pleasure that it has afforded the municipality to entertain the distinguished messenger. 
It would further convey to its English cousins the sincere hope and desire that the future 
may witness a continuation and greater development of that far reaching spirit of fellow- 
ship which exists between the two cities, binding each year closer the ties of international 
duty; and be it further Resolved, that a copy of these resolutions be suitably engrossed 
and forwarded to the Mayor and governing body of Taunton, England." 

All of this interesting correspondence is filed in the City Hall of our Taunton. 



TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



187 




^V*"^ 



Our Taunton was not settled 
directly from Taunton in the 
mother country, but the early 
comers were from the southwest 
counties of England near ancient 
Taunton and this led them to 
select this name for their home in 
the western world. The earliest 
record we have of new Taunton 
is that Edward Winslow and 
Stephen Hopkins walked through 
Taunton to Narragansett Bay to 
hold an important meeting with 
the Indian King Massasoit. The 
first real record of Taunton, how- 
ever, was in 1637, when Richard 
Williams and a few Puritans from 
Dorchester built some houses 
there. We are told that the 
idea of erecting a memorial in 
memory of WiUiams has been 
agitated several times by the 
family. There is a bridge over 
the Taunton River which is called 
the "Williams Bridge," but this 
was not erected as a memorial. 
Not long after Williams and his 
little band settled there they were 
followed by the families of Dean, 
Baylies, Tisdale, Morton, Cobb, 
Crocker, Levering, Hall, Pool, 
Crossman, WilHams and others. 
There are memorials erected near 
the home and on the grave of Elisabeth Pool, who bought a large tract of land from 
the Indians and became an active promoter of local interests. Miss Pool's fam- 
ily had long lived in Taunton, Somerset County, England. During the two hun- 
dred and fiftieth anniversary of the town there was a tableau showing her making 
this piu-chase from the Indians, and this scene is depicted on the seal of the city. 

There have been many other interesting interchanges of presents and corre- 
spondence between the two places, the most important of which occurred during 
the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary wliich took place in 1889. The Mayor 




From a photograph 



Kindness Miss Edith \L Ilodgman 
and Edzvin A. Tetlotv, Esq. 



MONUMENT IN MT. PLE.^SANT CEMETERY, 
TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS, 

over the grave of Elisabeth Pool, who purchased a large 
tract of land from the Indians near here, and who did much 
to build up the to\vn in the early days. Her family came 
from Taunton, England. 



TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS 




Photographed by Montague Cooper from an old print Kindness Ian Forbes- Robertson, Esq, 

OLD VIEW OF TAXJNTON, ENGLAND 
St. James Church is on the right and St. Mary Magdalene's on the left. 

of old Taunton presented to the Old Colony Historical Society in new Taunton a 
stone cherub from St. Mary Magdalene's Church, which is now in the rooms of 
the Historical Society; also about the same time Edward Lebault of Taunton, 
England, gave to the Society a piece of the altar railing and pulpit ornament which 
was formerly a part of this same church. InNatations were sent to the Mayor, 
Aldermen and Councillors of the English town to be present at this celebration, 
and the following reply from the Mayor of Taunton was received: — 

"I beg to thank you and your Committee for your kind feelings towards us, and to 
assure you that although we shall not be present at your celebration our hearts will be 
with you, and we trust you will have a pleasant and enjoyable time. Our Corporation 
has decided to send you an address of congratulation which is being prepared." 

Many letters were e.xchanged between residents of the two places on both sides of 
the water, one of which describes in an interesting way a visit that James Russell 
Lowell made to the old town, on which occasion he delivered a lecture on Henry 
Fielding of Somersetshire, "The Father of the English Novel." 

After the celebration, the English Mayor again wrote and sent an address from 
his town which was framed in a piece of oak taken from St. Mary's Tower which 
was torn down thirty years before. This interesting souvenir is now hanging 



TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



189 



in the Aldermanic Chamber in our 
Taunton. A view of the old town 
was also shown attached to this 
address, also a cut of the old castle 
which is now used as a museum. 
The formal message received at the 
same time read as follows: — 

"Although unable to be present . . . 
we can assure you that the ties of 
kindred and tongue which bind your 
mighty Nation to the mother country 
are still further strengthened by the 
remembrance that there exists on the 
other side of the Atlantic a city worthy 
of handing down to posterity the name 
of Taunton which is endeared to us by 
the recollection of its historical past, the 
contemplation of its prosperous present 
and the promise of a still brighter 
future." 

Our Mayor and Council again replied 
and sent a souvenir of the cele- 
bration, together with an attractive 
picture showing the "Mayflower" in 
Plymouth Harbour, a view of Taun- 
ton River, a sketch of Taunton 
Green and a picture of the City 
Hall. The message shown in the ac- 
companying photograph was framed 
from a timber that came from the 
Enghsh ship " Sparrowhawk " wliich 
was wrecked off Cape Cod in 1626, 
the hull of which vessel is now 
one of the relics exhibited in Pilgrim 
as follows: — 




Photographed by Montague Cooper Kindness 

Ian Forbes-Robertion, Esq. 

MESSAGE SENT BY TAUNTON, MASSACHU- 
SETTS, TO T.\UNTON, ENGLAND, IN 1889, 

on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anni- 
versary of our city. The frame is cut from a timber 
that came from the English vessel "Sparrowhawk," 
which was wrecked oiif Cape Cod in 1626. The hull 
of this ship is now in Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, Massa- 
chusetts. 

Hall in our Plymouth. The message reads 



"The Mayor, Aldermen, and Common Council of 

Taunton, in New England 

TO THE 

Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses of Taunton in old England. 

Greeting . . . We have been deeply touched by the reception of your kind Address of 
Congratulation upon the celebration of the 250th Anniversary of the foundation of our 
City, which happily arrived on the very day of its occurrence. We assure you that we 
fully reciprocate your kindly sentiments, so pleasantly expressed, and we fondly cherish 
the memory of your ancient, brave, and loyal Borough, with its historic castle, its beauti- 
ful Church of St. Mary, and its charming river in that lovely vale of Taunton Dean. 



I90 TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

We wonder not that our fathers chose our name 'in honour and love to their dear and 
native country,' and we congratulate ourselves that they brought with them from their 
own land those lofty and sterHng principles of thought and action which have contributed 
so much to our prosperity, and secured for us the manifold blessings we now enjoy. 

May we never bring discredit on our ancient name, but rather lead our English mother 
to ever feel a just pride in her American daughter, and may the bonds of love and amitv 
between us, and between our respective countries grow stronger till time shall be no more. 

Given in our Council Chamber this eighth 
day of August a.d. 1889." 

An interesting account of the celebration appeared in one of the English news- 
papers in Taunton, entitled "Taunton's American Daughter." 

Wilfred Marshall of Taunton, England, is very familiar with our town, ha\Tng 
visited it three or four times. 

That the citizens of Taunton, England, still keep up their interest in the New 
England city is evidenced by a visit made here in February, 192 1, by Thomas I. 
Perry, a local magistrate of the mother town, who called upon Mayor Coughlin 
and the other officials at City Hall. In discussing the visit to Taunton, Massa- 
chusetts, made by former Mayor Wrenn of his town in 1900, he stated that 
the late Mayor's widow was the first woman member of the town council of 
Taunton, England. 

"Ich was bore at Taunton Deane where should I be bore else?" is the boast of 
the inhabitants of old Taunton and the nearby towns, which are situated in what 
is called "Taunton Dean" or the "Vale of Taunton." The name Taunton is 
derived from the river Thone, sometimes called Tone, which flows through the 
town. The name is also sometimes said to have been derived from the Gaelic 
"Taun" meaning "of the river" and "town," contracted into Taunton. The 
castle of Taunton built by the Bishop of Winchester (see next page) is the im- 
portant object of interest in the tovni. Near this site there was once a castle 
which was built in 700 by Ina, King of W^essex, who dwelt there. The present 
castle held out very gallantly against the royal forces in 1625 and the following 
lines indicate the joy of the town on being saved : — 

"The eleventh of May was a joyful day, 
When Taunton got relief; 
Which turned our sorrows into joy. 
And eased us of our grief." 

The full history of this castle is one long record of romance and to the New Eng- 
lander who has read of the witchcraft and superstition of his country, it may be 
interesting to mention one of the objects that is religiously kept in this old building. 
It was believed that if a pig died, a witch had "overlooked it," to use an English 
expression. After the pig's death its heart was filled with pins, stuck into it as in a 
pin-cushion, and it was then put in the chimney. As long as the heart remained 
there, it was supposed that no witch could have power over any other pig belonging 



TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



191 




Fhotogr~*phed by Montague Cooper from an oia print kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Ejg. 

TAUNTON CASTLE, TAUNTON, ENGLAND 
The castle dates back to the eighth century, although it has been much renovated. 

to that house. A very old example was found in an ancient house and removed to 
this castle, where it is still exhibited as a relic of the old days. 

It may be interesting to mention that Thomas Chaucer, the son of Geoffrey 
Chaucer, "the father of Enghsh poetry," was at one time constable of this castle, 
which gives us an idea of its antiquity. 

There is a village near our Taunton called Britanniavalle, so named because of 
the fact that britannia ware was first manufactured in the United States in an old 
building now belonging to the Reed and Barton Corporation. The village arose 
around this little shop. The ware was so named because it originated in Britain 
near Sheffield. A number of Englishmen came over from England to work in this 
trade and their countrymen have continued to come up to the present time. 



192 



TOPSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 



NOT long ago when a \isitor from Topslield, Massachusetts, visited the 
mother town, the driver of the carriage, in reply to the question as to how 
the English Toppesfield got its name, said: "Well, they must-a-caught it 
as it came along. Come by a whirlwind perhaps." Another old character de- 
clared it was probable that it was so named on account of being the topmost vil- 
lage in the shire. The place undoubtedly derived its name in Saxon times from 
a chieftain called Toppa, who owned this territory. At various times the town 
has been called Toppesfend, Toppesford and Thopefield. 

A visitor to the mother town from Xew England on looking over the church 
register at St. Margaret's in this Essex village found the following names, all well 
known to our Topsfield and vicinity: Allen, Barker, Barnes, Clarke, Davison, 
Hale, Hardy, Palmer, Reed, Rice, Smith, Wildes and Wilson. In this church 
register appears the name of "Samuel Symonds, Gent." and his wife Dorothy, as 
well as the records of baptism of their ten children bom between the years 162 1 
and 1633. Samuel Sjnnonds afterwards lived in Ipswich in New England and was 
a prominent man and "Assistant" or member of the Governor's Council. It was 
Symonds who v/as responsible for the change of name from New Meadows to 
Topsfield in remembrance of the parish in old England where he had worshipped. 




from a photograph 



Kindness George Francis Dou; Esq. 



TOPPESFIELD, ENGLAND, 

from which place Topsfield, Massachusetts, received its name. 



TOPSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 



193 




Froyn d fhoioejaph Kindness Gi-orge Irancis Do:r, Esq, 

ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH, TOPPESFIELD, ENGLAND 

Samuel SjTnonds, the Assistant, who settled in Ipswich in the Massachusetts Bay Colony and was instru- 
mental in the naming of Topsfield, was a communicant in this church and here his children were baptized. 
There are also a number of other names in the register of the English church that are well known in this 
New England town. 



Zaccheus Gould, another early settler, wanted the settlement called Hempstead 
because he came from Hemel Hempstead in England, but the Court ruled other- 
wise. Other early settlers besides Gould were William Perkins of London, WiUiam 
Towne, WilUam Howard, Francis Peabody, John Wilde and Thomas Baker. 

Topsfield, Massachusetts, received its name in 1650, although it was settled as 
early as 1639; it was an offshoot of Agawam, the early name of Ipswich and those 
chiefly responsible for its settlement were two of the party of John Winthrop, Jr., 
who left Ipswich to come over to this new town. 

A well-known minister in our Topsfield was Rev. Joseph Capen of witchcraft 
times, who married a daughter of John Appleton of Ipswich and whose fine old 
seventeenth century manse with overhanging second-story has been restored and 
now is owned and occupied by the local Historical Society. This attractive New 
England town has become the favorite summer resort of many prominent people. 

The only interchange which has taken place between the daughter and mother 
towns occurred in August, 1900, at the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the 



194 TOPSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 

incorporation of Topsfield. At this time a cable of congratulations from Toppes- 
field, England, was read at the meeting and a suitable reply flashed back to the 
English town, while the school-children sang "To thee, Country." 

Mr. George Francis Dow in his address at this two hundred and fiftieth anni- 
versary relates an amusing story concerning "Goodman" Neland, who had 
buDt his house across the boundary line between Topsfield and Ipswich. For 
years the constables called to collect ta.xes and always found him in the other part 
of the house and therefore, of course, in the other town. Finally the Topsfield 
constable on one of his visits climbed into the pig-pen and secured a good fat pig, 
the sale of which enabled him to recover the necessary taxes. 

Topsfield, Maine, a small township in the eastern part of the State, was chris- 
tened in honour of Topsfield, Massachusetts, by Nehemiah Kneeland who moved 
to Maine from the Massachusetts town. 



WALTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 

ON January i6, 1888, there was held in the Music Hall in Waltham the 
celebration of the one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding 
of the town, on which occasion the residents paid their homage to the 
spirit of the past by flying in the building many American and British flags draped 
together, and by surmounting one group of banners with a shield bearing the arms 
and motto of the Prince of Wales. There have been no official visits between the 
two Walthams, though many people from our city have journeyed to Waltham 
Abbey, from which our city derived its name. Although at the present time there 
is little in the appearance of the prosperous Massachusetts city that would recall 
the historic old English town, it is probable that at the time of the incorporation 
of our Waltham in 1738, there was some similarity between the "forest home" on 
the Charles River and that on the river Lea. The name Waltham is supposed 
to be derived from the Saxon "Wealdham," meaning a "home in the forest," or 
"wild," and to this day forests cover probably more than half of the territory of 
the New England city. Certainly visions of " Harold's town " with the Lea winding 
in and out among the fertile meadows must have been in the minds of William 
Brown, Samuel Livermore, Daniel Benjamin and other dwellers in the western 
precinct of Watertown, Massachusetts, when, their petition to have their precinct 
"erected into a separate and distinct township" having been granted, they con- 
ferred upon the newly made town the name of Waltham. As one historian has 
suggested, it must have been peculiarly gratifying to these early settlers "thus to 
preserve ever present amid new associations and surroundings the recollections of 
their old homes across the sea." The first actual settler within the town limits is 
supposed to have been John Page who in 1643 had a house near the present Water- 



WALTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 195 

town line; Samuel Bigelow had a house on the western part of the Great Country- 
Road before 1686, while Allen Flagg and Jonathan Sanderson built at Piety Corner 
about 1689. Waltham has furnished two Massachusetts Governors, Christopher 
Gore, who was at one time United States Senator and also special Minister to Eng- 
land, and Nathaniel P. Banks. 

The English village is located on the left bank of the river Lea, about twelve 
miles northeast of London, in the county of Essex, to which locality also belongs 
Nasing, the birthplace of the Rev. John Eliot, famous for his religious ministrations 
to the Indians and the early settlers of New England. No small part of John 
Eliot's early work was among the Indians in the vicinity of Watertown and Wal- 
tham, and the fact that Waltham Abbey was near Nasing may have suggested to 
the early settlers this name for the American town. The exact place where Eliot 
preached was on the shore of a large sheet of water which was first called the " Great 
Pond in the Woods," and the Indian tribe to which he preached continued on its 
shores until the year 1676. 

To those familiar with its history, both authentic and legendary, the name of 
old Waltham will ever be tinged with romance. Thither came Tovi the Proud, 
standard-bearer to Canute the Dane, King of England, early in the eleventh century, 
and built for himself in the forest a hunting seat, near which he established a village 
of "three score and six dwellers." Here also he founded, about 1020 a.d., the 
Church of the Holy Cross and thus it came about that the town was also called at 
one time Waltham Holy Cross. Later Waltham came into the possession of Earl 
Harold, who, out of gratitude for his wonderful cure by the "holy cross," erected 
in 1059 a monastery upon the site of Tovi's church. After Harold was killed in 
1066 in the famous battle of Hastings he was buried in this monastery which, 
as stated below, came to be known later as Waltham Abbey. In 11 77, Harold's 
college was dissolved and an Augustinian Priory was founded by Henry II, which 
in 1 184 became Waltham Abbey. The history of this edifice is, as old Thomas 
Fuller says, "the history of the Church of England." To this Abbey came, for 
various reasons, many of the English royalty, from the time of Harold, its founder, 
to the days of Charles II. 

One of the most picturesque corners of the old town is "Romeland," an open 
square of quaint, high-gabled and stuccoed red brick houses, while in another part, 
spanning the Corn Mill stream, is a remnant of very early architecture known as 
Harold's Bridge. In Waltham also is the house of Master Cressy, in which Cran- 
mer, Fox and Gardner in 1533 discussed the question of the separation of Henry 
VIII from Catherine of Aragon. Here in the forests the Stuarts did a great deal of 
hunting and near Waltham still can be seen the house where it is said that James I, 
during one of his hunts, using his sword for a carving-knife, patted a joint of 
beef and called it "Sir Loin." Beautiful Epping Forest, the playground of thousands 
of Londoners on bank holidays, is near Waltham. 



WALTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 197 

There is one historic feature in the old English town of Waltham which visi- 
tors will always be interested in, and that is old Temple Bar which for several 
centuries stood at the west end of Fleet Street and was one of the entrances into 
the real old city of London. In the year 1878 Temple Bar was entirely removed 
and was subsequently rebuilt at the entrance to Theobald's Park, Waltham. 
The first mention of the Bar is in 1361, and a curious custom was from time 
immemorial observed at this point. Before the Sovereign could enter the city 
proper his carriage was halted while the Lord Mayor presented his sword of 
office to the monarch, who after receiving the sword returned it to the Mayor, 
and until this ceremony had been gone through the King was not allowed to 
enter the city. A huge stone griffin, or dragon, now occupies the site of the 
ancient Temple Bar. 

In 1813, the works of the Boston Manufacturing Company were estabhshed in 
our Waltham, and not only for the manufacturing of cotton goods did the city 
become noted, but also for the watches made at the famous Waltham Watch 
factory, supposed to be the largest works of its kind in existence. The Gore and 
Lyman estates, the most attractive probably of the time, carry out the meaning of 
the word Waltham, "a home in a forest," on account of their beautiful trees. The 
Lyman place was originally granted to William Paine, being later purchased by John 
Livermore, who came to this country in 1634 and who was one of the most impor- 
tant men of the town, besides being the progenitor of most of the Livermores in 
this country. The descendants of John Livermore owned this place until 1780, 
when it was sold to Jonas Dix. In 1793 it came into the possession of Theodore 
Lyman, whose descendants still occupy the old residence. Isaac Stearns, a grand- 
son of one of the early pioneers, and William Wellington also owned much land in 
the early days of the town. We read of many Fourth of July celebrations held on 
Stearns's wood-lot and in WeUington's Grove, which were both usually full of 
partridges and quail. 

There is also a Waltham in Maine and one in Vermont. 

WARWICK, MASSACHUSETTS, AND WARWICK, RHODE ISLAND 

SAMUEL GORTON, who was born in Gorton, England, and who probably 
named Portsmouth, Rhode Island, was the founder of the Rhode Island 
Warwick in 1642, those associated with him being Randall Holden and John 
Greene, both of Salisbury, England, and Francis Weston. They were soon driven 
out of their settlement by the Massachusetts Bay Colony troops, but after obtain- 
ing royal sanction for their settlement returned to it. The final success of Gorton 
and his few followers against the overwhelming number of their enemies, the Mas- 
sachusetts Bay colonists, greatly impressed the Indians, as described by Gorton in 
these words: — 



igS WARWICK, MASSACHUSETTS and RHODE ISLAND 




Photograplud by F. Frith &• Co., Surrey, Enf;Iand Kindnesi Liri Ffyrbe^-R'ibertson, B-«f. 

WARWICK CASTLE, WARWICKSfflRE, ENGLAND 

"The Indians called the English in their tongue Wattaconoges (meaning those 
who wear clothes or coat men). They now called us Gortonoges, and being that 
they had heard of a great war to be in Old England, they presently framed unto 
them a cause of our deliverance, imagining that there were two kinds of people in 
Old England, the one called by the name of Englishmen and the other Gortonoges; 
and concluded that the Gortonoges were a mightier people than the English . . . 
and therefore . . . thought it not safe to take away our lives because however few 
there were of us in New England in comparison with those who came out against 
us, yet that great people in Old England would come over and put them to death 
if they should take away our lives." This towTi was named for Robert, Earl of 
Warwick, Lord High Admiral, rather than for the leading town of Warwickshire, 
known as the "Heart of England." We have, nevertheless, included Warwick on 
account of the prominence of the English town and its attractiveness to Americans 
and Englishmen. The Earl of Warwick was Governor-in-Chief of Foreig:i Plan- 
tations and chairman of the Commission that granted the charter to the Rhode 
Island town and affirmed Gorton's right to Shawomet. It was out of gratitude to 
him that the old name of Shawomet was changed to Warwick in the year 1647. 
Thousands of Americans each year visit the old residential seat of the Earls of 
Warwick, Warwick Castle, now leased to Henry W. Marsh, Esq., of New York, of 



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200 WARWICK, MASSACHUSETTS and RHODE ISLAND 

the Harvard Class of '85, who was Assistant Manager of the Harvard Surgical Unit 
which did such splendid work during the war that it was commended in a letter 
written by King George V. The Unit began service on July 17, 1915, at the 22nd 
General Hospital in France, where it "carried on" till the end of the war, caring 
for a tenth of the British casualties on the Western Front. On its return to 
Boston, the weather-stained Stars and Stripes and the Union Jack which had 
flown over the hospital during the years of strife were presented at a mass meeting 
at the Harvard Club of Boston to President Lowell, who turned them over to the 
Harvard Medical School. The members of this Unit were entertained at the Castle 
on their way through England and while there had an opportunity to see the wonder- 
ful paintings by Van Dyck, \'elasquez, Reynolds, Rubens, Holbein and others, 
also the peacocks for which the Castle has long been famous, and the attractive 
grounds. One of the curios of the Castle is a huge bowl known as Guy's Punch- 
bowl, so named after the celebrated mythical personage "Gu}- of Warwick." This 
curiosity was made for Sir John Talbot, and an old couplet makes reference to him 
and his odd bowl in these words: — 

"There's nothing left of Talbot's fame 
But Talbot's Pot and Talbot's Lane." 

The English borough is situated near the center of the shire, on a hill encircled 
by a long curse of the Avon and within sight of the Castle grounds where the well- 
known Warwickshire hounds have often hunted their fox. Nearby is Leamington, 
a score of years ago one of the great fox-hunting centers of England. Henry James 
was very fond of Warwickshire, in fact it was a place to which the intellectuals of 
both hemispheres journeyed, including Sir Walter Scott, Nathaniel Hawthorne, 
who wrote of Warwick in "Our Old Home," Thackeray, Dickens and George Eliot. 

Near the Castle is St. Mary's Church, and in the middle of the choir appear 
recumbent figures representing the first Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Wanvick, and 
his second wife, who both died in 1369. This Thomas Beauchamp was one of 
the ancestors of Randall Holden's wife. The great feature of this church is 
Beauchamp Chapel and in it lies the body of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of War- 
wick, who died in 1439, and Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, the favorite of 
Queen Elizabeth. Dudley founded the Leicester Hospital in Warwick. The 
tower of St. Mary's Church contains a peal of ten bells which plays a time every 
three hours, but a different tune every day of the week, which serves to remind 
the townspeople not only of the hour but of the day. A mile north of Wanvick on 
the banks of the Avon is the famous Guy's Cliff, in far-off ages the retreat of the 
pilgrim Sir Guy. The present mansion of Guy's Cliff, which dates from the begin- 
ning of the eighteenth century, is partially hewn out of solid rock. 

The English Warwick held a great pageant during the week of July 4, 1906, on 
the Castle grounds on the occasion of the one thousandth anni\crsary of Queen 



WARWICK, MASSACHUSETTS and RHODE ISLAND 201 




PhulosraphrJ by F. Frith if Co., Sumy, England Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

LEICESTER HOSPIT.'VL, WARWICK, ENGLAND 

Ethelfreda's conquest of Mercia. On that day, the Stars and Stripes were dis- 
played on the grandstand, and the namesakes of Warwick in this country, which 
doubtless included the Warwicks of New England, were represented on this occasion. 
This group was photographed, but unfortunately the plate was lost. 

The Massachusetts Warwick, which is near Worcester, has sometimes been 
called the "Switzerland of America." It was one of the four grants made by the 
General Court in 1735 for his "Majestie's Province in the Massachusetts Bay." 
Samuel Newall and others signed the first petition for the town, which was called 
the "plantation of Roxbury," or "Gardner's Canada," so called because the pref- 
erence of sites was given to those who were descendants of the officers and soldiers 
who served in the expedition to Canada in 1690. Warwick was incorporated in 
1763 and was named either for Warwick or for Guy, Earl of Warwick. 



203 



WATERTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS 

THE family of Sir Richard Saltonstall, who sailed from Yarmouth, England, 
in the ship "Arbella," and who founded our Watertown, came from the 
small villages of Nether and Over Saltonstall, which are a part of Halifax, 
in the West Riding of Yorkshire. Mr. Richard M. Saltonstall, who has edited an 
interesting book, written by Hon. Leverett Saltonstall, describing Sir Richard Salton- 
stall's ancestry and descendants, a short time ago visited the two villages in England 
which are named for his family and when he arrived there the people expressed their 
fear that one of the faniily had come back to claim the land. These two hamlets 
(of which we give pictures, on this page and the next) are very small and almost 
deserted, yet they form a most interesting link between England and America. 
Back of these old towns is Saltonstall ]\Ioor, which is well known to sportsmen. 

The Enghsh family of Saltonstall can be traced back from Thomas de Salton- 
stall to Frederick II, Earl of Guilford, the first record we have beginning with the 
former. In 1597, a Sir Richard Saltonstall was Lord Mayor of London. We have 
included a cut of the Church of St. John the Baptist in Halifax, where from the year 




From ".^Hffj/ry L^ Dffcfndanls of Sir Richard Salton<tull." Rirrrnde Prr'j, tSo? Kindness R. M. Sall"rrt^!l, Eaj. 

NETHER SALTONSTALL, NEAR HALIFAX, ENGLAND 

Here lived the Saltonstall family so well known in this country, and early settlers in Watertown, Haverhill 

and Ipswich, Massachusetts. 



204 



WATERTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS 




From " j4ncfstry &• Dfjctnd.iri' of Sir Richard Saltomtall" Rivenidf Pre^s, iSqt Kindness R. }f. Saltonstall, Ej'^. 

THE OLD CHAPEL, OVER SALTONSTALL, NEAR HALIF.-VX, ENGLAND 

1539 have been recorded forty-four marriages and one hundred and twenty baptisms 
in the Saltonstall family. 

The records in this country show that "Sir Richard Saltonstall, Rev. George 
Phillips, and a goodly number of planters went up the Charles River four miles to 
a place well watered" and settled their plantation just below the place where Mt. 
Auburn is now situated and very near the home of the late James Russell Lowell. 
This territory, the fourth settlement in the Colony, was first called "Sir Richard 
Saltonstall's Plantation," but was later named Watertown by the Court, either on ac- 
count of its natural features or, more probably, from a place by the name of Waterton 
in England. Saltonstall was the first subscriber to the church covenant of Water- 
town and he was also an original patentee of Connecticut with Lord Saye and Sele, 
Lord Brooke and others. Saltonstall remained in Watertown only a short time, but 
was always interested in the Colony, his two sons remaining there after he had left. 
Saltonstall Square in Watertown was named after him in remembrance of all he did 
for the settlement in its first days. President Quincy said of him that after Har\'ard 
and Winthrop he was the ne.xt greatest benefactor of Harvard College. The Sal- 
tonstall family had much to do with the Ipswich settlement and for five generations 
lived in and helped Haverhill. 

There is also a Watertown in Connecticut. 



20S 

WEYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 

"Cohasset for beauty, 
Hingham for pride, 
If not for its herring, 
Weymouth had died." 

THE chief feature of interest between the two Weymouths is the visit of 
Judge Louis A. Cook to old Weymouth in 1914, to attend the unveiling of 
the memorial that was placed there to John Endicott of Dorchester, Eng- 
land, and Richard Clark, near the wharf from which they sailed, the former to 
Salem, America, to become Governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, and the 
latter, a "most knowing pilot, ship master and adventurer," as he has been described, 
to Newfoundland. Judge Cook, who was the delegate from South Weymouth, Mas- 
sachusetts, was present at the luncheon before the ceremony. In the illustration 
on the following page can be seen on the table three pairs of shoes which had been 
brought by him from New England. During the course of his remarks he said that 
the Massachusetts Weymouth was famous for its shoes and he had been deputed to 
bring over to this ceremony these three pairs which were made in his town; one 
pair he said jokingly was for the Mayoress and if they did not fit her, he declared 
that the Mayor would have to go around the town and find, as in the tale of 
Cinderella, a lady whom thej' would fit. The unveiling ceremony was performed 
by Mrs. Joseph Chamberlain, who was the eighth lineal descendant of Governor 
Endicott, and her stepson, Rt. Hon. Austen Chamberlain, M.P. The guests were 
entertained at luncheon by the Mayor and Corporation, at the Gloucester Hotel, 
which has many historical memories associated with it; it was once the residence 
of King George HI; the peace of Amiens was discussed here; and within its walls 
the King said farewell to Captain Hardy, one of Nelson's officers, just before the 
battle of Trafalgar. After luncheon the Mayor and Corporation received Mrs. 
Chamberlain and all the other guests on the site of the jetty from which Endicott 
and Clark set out on their voyages to this country. Hon. Austen Chamberlain 
spoke for Mrs. Chamberlain about the men who went to New England to found a 
new commonwealth and of the great nation that had sprung up in the land they 
had settled. He added that he hoped the account was not closed and that between 
the United States and the mother land there might be an ever increasing interchange 
of thought and kindly friendship and hospitality. Mrs. Chamberlain asked him to 
express to the people that she prayed that the country where Endicott hved and to 
which she had returned to make her home, and the country he had helped to establish, 
on this hundredth anniversary of peaceful friendship, might now and in the time to 
come forge fresh links of friendship forevermore. Mr. Chamberlain then took down 
the British and American flags surrounding the memorial while the band played the 
national anthems of the two countries. The memorial to John Endicott has been 




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WEYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 



207 



placed on the stone column which 
is shown in the accompanying 
picture, and the medalHon, 
which is also pictured and which 
is attached to the monument, 
bears the following inscription : — 

In Memory of 
RICHARD CLARK 

Captain and Pilot of 

Weymouth, who in 1583 

sailed thence to join 

Sir Humphrey Gilbert's 

Voyage of discovery to 

Newfoundland, and of 

JOHN ENDICOTT 

who on June 20, 1628, 

set forth from Weymouth in 

the ship "Abigail" on the 

expedition which led to 

the establishment of the 

plantation at Salem, 

Massachusetts. 

Erected by PubUc 

Subscription 1914. 



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Photographed by Edzvard II. Seward Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson^ Esq. 



BRONZE MEDALLION PLACED ON THE 
MEMORIAL IN WEYMOUTH, ENGLAND, 

in honour of Richard Clark and John Endicott. 



Weymouth in this country was the first permanent settlement in Boston Har- 
bour and is the second oldest town in Massachusetts, antedating Boston by at least 
six years and, next to Plymouth, is the oldest colony in the State. It is also 
often referred to as the "Alma Mater of Boston" for the reason that Wilham 
Blackstone, the first settler in Boston, came from Weymouth. The earliest pio- 
neers in our Weymouth did not come from the town of the same name in England, 
but many did come here the jear after the first settlement of the town in 1623 by 
Robert Gorges, son of Sir Ferdinando Gorges. At this time our Weymouth was 
known as Wessagusset. Some years later Rev. Mr. Hall, who was born in Somer- 
setshire, sailed from Weymouth for this country, and it is mentioned in old Wey- 
mouth that under date of March 20, 1635, "about one hundred people are recorded 
as bound here," meaning America. Abigail (Smith) Adams was one of the original 
settlers of our Weymouth and among other early comers we can mention the names 
of Bursley, Jeffries and probably Ludden as having come over with Gorges. Some 
years later the following well-known persons came over and set up their homes in 
our Weymouth: Henry Adams, John Allen, Robert Abell, Stephen French, John 
Glover, Edmond Hart, James Parker, Thomas Richards, Thomas Rawlins, Clement 
Briggs, Richard Sylvester and Clement Weaver. The Weymouth Historical 
Society in the Massachusetts town possesses some fine pictures of the English 
Weymouth. 




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WEYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 209 

The town for which our Weymouth is named has often been called the English 
Naples. It is situated in the county of Dorset on the south side of the river Wey, 
from which it gets its name, which was originally derived from "Waeye," meaning 
" water " and "mud," being the Saxon word for "mouth of the river." The town has 
a fine harbour and has always been a commercial port; it is now also a great water- 
ing-place. Into this attractive port the Roman Navy often found its way and 
years later two ships of the Spanish Armada were brought here as prizes. The 
earliest history of the town dates back to 938 a.d. in the time of King Athelstan, 
the next mention of it in history being in the Saxon charter of King Ethelred. One 
interesting incident occurred at the time King Philip of Spain was driven into the 
harbour by a hurricane. John Russell, of Berwick House, knew Spanish so 
well that he was chosen to act as interpreter for the royal party. King Henry was 
informed of the unexpected arrival of the Spanish King and sent liini an invitation 
to visit him in London. Russell accompanied the visitor and made such a favor- 
able impression on King Philip that the latter recommended him especially to the 
English King. It happened later that Russell became a favorite with King 
Henry's son, who created him Duke of Bedford, a name also closely associated 
with our New Bedford. 



A 



WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

TEMPORARY memorial to the American soldiers who fell in the Great 
War has been placed in the south aisle of the Cathedral in Winchester, 
England, and the inscription reads as follows: — 

This window and these panels have been reserved by the Dean and 
Chapter for the dedication of a perpetual memorial to be erected by the 
British Nation to those GALLANT AMERICANS who have given their 
lives for the cause of freedom in the Great War 1914-191 . 

A more permanent memorial in the form of a window is now being built in the 
south aisle of the Cathedral. The ancient city of Winchester is a fitting place for 
such a memorial because of the fact that one hundred thousand troops of the 
American Expeditionary Forces came to the city from the nearby port of South- 
ampton where they disembarked. It was at Winchester, too, that one of the 
largest American rest camps was estabHshed, and an added inducement that 
imdoubtedly appealed to the British authorities in the selection of this site for a 
memorial was the fact that five hundred and fifty-three of our brave soldiers, who 
died of influenza, lie buried in the military cemetery on Morn Hill in Winchester. 
A further appropriateness lies in the fact that Winchester was at one time the 
ancient capital of England and was the home of so many kings that it has often 
been called "Royal Winchester." Henry I here celebrated his marriage to Matilda 
of Scotland and their son, William, was born in this ancient city; Henry III was 



210 



WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



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■OFfKl:F.lX)M INThEC.RF7^rViAR19l4 191 



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also born here; Henry IV was 
married here; Henry V received 
here the Ambassador of Charles of 
France; Henry \T often \isited 
here; Henry VII journeyed here 
with his queen in order that his 
child should be born in England's 
old capital, and Henry VIII spent 
;i week herein 1522 and entertained 
the Emperor Charles V of Austria. 
King Edward HI made Winches- 
ter one of his ten staple towns for 
wool and leather, with the idea of 
reviving its prestige. Here also 
Queen Mary entertained Philip, 
Prince of Spain, pre\'ious to their 
marriage; King James I was the 
last king to reside in the castle. 
It was during the reign of Henry 
III that the city as a governing 
center began to decline in impor- 
tance, the chief reason being that 
the treasury was transferred to 
London. Outside the west gate of the city was situated the King's hawk-house, 
in which falconers kept the birds in the days when falconry was so much indulged 
in. Winchester was the home of Alfred the Great, and here he ruled wisely and 
well for eighteen years; it was here that he wrote his Saxon Chronicles. It was 
also in Winchester that the original Domesday Book was compiled and here it 
was kept as long as the city was the capital of the kingdom. It may be also 
claimed that Winchester was the cradle of the British Empire, for it was here 
that King Alfred laid the foundations of the British Na\y. It is also interesting 
to mention that Sir Walter Raleigh was tried and imprisoned in Winchester before 
his e.xecution in London. 

The Cathedral, of course, is the center of interest to visitors, and it wiU be re- 
membered that Emerson thought it the most beautiful in England with the excep- 
tion of York Minster. An attraction in the city is the house where Jane Austen 
lived and died, her body being buried in the Cathedral. New Englanders will 
be interested to know that the renowned Izaak Walton was also buried there. 
Bishop Lawrence of our Boston preached officially in Winchester Cathedral in 
the year 1920. 

Like all mediaeval cities, Winchester was surrounded by a wall which was origi- 



Majir Evelyn Wrench and Henry 
G. Lord, Esq. 

TEMPORARY MEMORIAL PLACED IN WIN- 
CHESTER CATHEDRAL, WINCHESTER, 
ENGLAND, 

to the memory of the Americans who lost their hves in the 
Great War. 



WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 



211 




From a pholograpk Kindness Mrs. Mary FifiM King 

WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL, WINCHESTER, ENGLAND, 

in which has recently been placed by the British Nation a memorial to the Americans who gave their lives 
in the Great War. Winchester was the capital of England under Alfred the Great (849 a.d.). The cathe- 
dral, built in the eleventh centurj-, is the chief attraction in this ancient city. 

nally Roman, but practically nothing of this remains intact. One of the gates 
was changed to its present aspect by the Normans. It may also be mentioned 
that the original municipal flag of the English city was presented to its American 
namesake in Virginia during the latter part of 1919. 

Our New England Winchester has taken an interest in the city of the same name 
in England and the Public Library of our town has several times sent reports and 
memoranda regarding its war activities, a number of letters in reply having been 
received describing the large American War Camp near the English city. 

Edward Converse, a staunch old Puritan, who came over in Winthrop's colony, 
was the first settler of the territory now called Winchester, Massachusetts, having 
built and occupied the first house here in 1640. This humble dweUing stood on 
the site which many generations later was occupied by the Thompson estate, next 
to the Post-office. A "come mill," the first business establishment in Winchester, 
was also built by this pioneer. This section of the country, considered by the 
dwellers along the seacoast as a "remote land," was at that time a wild, unsettled 
part of Charlestown, called Waterfield, included in the original territory granted 
to Charlestown in 1633 by the General Court. After certain grants by the General 
Court in 1640 the place was renamed " Charlestowne Village." On October 6, 
1642, an act was passed by the General Court incorporating Woburn into a sepa- 
rate town, the act reading, "Charlestowne Village is called Wooburne," so that 
much of the present territory of Winchester was a part of Woburn until 1850, when 



212 



WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 




i*holograpkfd hy H. If. Salmon b" Son, If'inchrster, England Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson , Esq. 

HOUSE IN WINCHESTER, ENGLAND, WHERE JANE AUSTEN LIVED AND DIED 

the town was incorporated under its present name. The territory included in this 
new township was taken from Woburn, Medford and West Cambridge (now 
Arlington). 

The early settlers in this section had a difficult time gaining a foothold in the 
wilderness, some of them being obliged to burrow into the hillside to obtain their 
first shelter. Included within the limits of the town was the farm of John Harvard, 
the founder of Harvard College. 

There is also a Winchester in Connecticut and one in New Hampshire. 



WINDSOR 
MAINE, NEW HAMPSHIRE, VERMONT, MASSACHUSETTS AND CONNECTICUT 

WINDSOR is one of the popular names for towns in America and each of 
the New England States, with the exception of Rhode Island, has a 
place so called. The Connecticut town was named for the Enghsh 
Windsor while the Massachusetts town was named for this early settlement in 
Connecticut, having been called Gageborough in honour of General Gage of Revo- 
lutionary fame until the year 1778. The Maine town was first called Malta and 
later Gerry, and curiously enough was named for the English town by a Frenchman 



214 WINDSOR, ME., N. H., VT., MASS. and CONN. 

called Anthony Coombs, the reason for this name, therefore, being difficult to dis- 
cover. The New Hampshire town is very small, having also received its name 
from the Windsor in Connecticut, while the V^ermont town derived its name in a 
similar way. 

The English town, from which all these places got their names either directly 
or indirectly, is a municipal borough incorporated by Edward IV, situated on the 
south bank of the Thames. The ancient name was Windelsora, meaning "the 
winding shore" (or "winding waters near the Castle"). Windsor itself is chiefly 
important on account of its Royal Castle which covers a tremendous area. It was 
begun by William, enlarged by his son Henry, rebuilt to a large extent b}- Edward 
III and further enlarged by many of the English monarchs since then. Within 
the Royal Mausoleum are the tombs of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The 
place is usually called New Windsor to distinguish it from Old Windsor, which is 
about two miles away. In July, 1896, the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Com- 
pany of Boston, as guests of the late Queen Victoria, were received very graciously 
at Windsor Castle, where they were reviewed by the Queen and a large coterie of 
her distinguished subjects. Nearby is the well-known Eton, with its school, situ- 
ated on the river Thames. 



WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS 

AT the time of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary celebration of the 
/\ city of Woburn, in 1892, a number of interchanges of messages took place 
A \ with the English Woburn and several officials of the latter were invited to 
be present. During the exercises Rev. Edward G. Porter, of Lexington, who had 
been a visitor to the old Woburn, told of his trip there, particularly mentioning 
Woburn Abbey, in which, however, despite the name, there is no longer any trace 
of a religious establishment. It stands in a park of 3,500 acres, enclosed by a 
high brick wall, twelve miles in circuit, and the old fish-ponds of the monks are now 
beautiful sheets of water enlivened by ducks and swans, while herds of deer may be 
seen quietly grazing over the sloping lawns. The portrait-galleries of this Abbey 
are famous and include paintings by Titian, Van Dyck, Rubens, Rembrandt, 
Teniers, Murillo and others. Mr. Porter was so interested in this fine collection 
that, at his request, the Duke of Bedford, who owned Woburn Abbey, presented 
catalogues of his collection to the public libraries of Woburn, Lexington and Bed- 
ford, in America. Judge Edward F. Johnson, of the Massachusetts Woburn, 
visited the mother town and its Abbey in 1879. He was treated with great hos- 
pitahty by Hon. George Russell, M.P., and upon his return home he wrote an 
account of his visit which was afterwards published in England and resulted in a 
very cordial letter from a member of the Russell family. 

Old Woburn, or Woubourne as it was once called, dates from Saxon times, and 



WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS 



215 




/"ro'^ I : ' '^ -',," / ^>t, England Kindness Judge Edward F. Johnjon 

WOBURN ABBEY, WOBURN, ENGLAND 
The seat of the Russell family, which has taken a great interest in Woburn, Massachusetts. 

although little is known of its early history, it was chosen for the site of an abbey 
in the twelfth century, when fourteen monks took up their residence there and 
gave much attention to the mill facilities that were offered by the brooks. 
In the reign of Henry VHI, on the dissolution of the monasteries, the Abbey 
reverted to the crown. When this monarch came to the throne he gave the 
estate to John Russell, who was created Earl of Bedford. The latter's successors, 
up to the year 1892, had included four Earls and ten Dukes. The famous Woburn 
Abbey is now the seat of the Duke of Bedford. 

Previous to the introduction of railways, Woburn, Bedfordshire, was a great 
center for stages and was a larger and busier town than it is at the present time. 
To-day its nearest railway station is known as Woburn Sands, which is some three 
miles distant from the town itself and about forty miles from London. 

There are three places in England from which it was thought for some time 
that the Massachusetts Woburn might have derived its name: Woburn in Bed- 
fordshire, Woo-burn in Bucks County and 0-burn in Dorset, all three spellings 
having been used by the earliest settlers of the Massachusetts town. It is rather 
remarkable, as Mr. Porter says, " that not one of the first si.xty towns in the colony 
received an Indian name, and only one or two were honored with Scripture names. 



2l6 



WOBURN, ]SL\SSACHUSETTS 





from " Vieu-s of Woburn," Fisher &* Sons, fJ'oburn, Enghnd Kindness Ju-dge Kdujard F. Johnson 

TOWN HALL AND GEORGE STREET, WOBURN, ENGLAND 

although the Puritan element was then so strong." It is also an interesting fact 
that no other town in America bears the name of Woburn, so far as we can learn. 
There is no contemporary record which explains the naming of our Woburn, 
but it is now known definitely that it derived its name from Woburn, Bedfordshire, 
and was so named by Captain Edward Johnson, the "father" of the town, in honour 
of his friend, Major-Gen. Robert Sedgwick, who was born in the Bedfordshire 
town. Sedgwick came to this country in 1635, was one of the earliest settlers in 
Chariestown and commander for several years of the Ancient and Honorable 
Artillery Company, of which both he and Johnson were charter members. Sedg- 
wick was also at one time commander of the Castle. He was a neighbor of John- 
son's in Chariestown, and in his famous book entitled "Wonder-working Providence 
of Sion's Saviour in New England" Johnson refers to Sedgwick in eulogistic terms, 
calling him "stout and active in all feats of war, nurst up in Londons Artillery 
garden, and furthered with fifteen years experience in N. E. exact theory, besides 
the help of a very good head-piece." In his first mention of Sedgwick in the 
Woburn Town Records, Johnson calls him "Noble Captain Sedgwick;" and 
Sedgwick's part in the work of exploring the land for the settlement of the town, 
and the influential position he held in deciding upon its present site, are also set 
forth by Johnson in the first volume of the Woburn Records. Sedgwick, however, 
never li\fd in Woburn and apparently never intended to. Johnson was its first 



WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS 217 

town clerk, the chairman of its first Board of Selectmen and the first deputy from 
Woburn to the General Court, and his leadership and influence were such in all 
matters relating to the organization and government of the new town that he would 
naturally have had the sa}' as to its name. In recognition of the nativity of his 
distinguished friend, he chose the name of Woburn; and, at the General Court 
holden in Boston September 27 (October 7, n.s.), 1642, it was ordered 
"That Charlestowne Village is called Wooborne." 

It may be interesting to mention that Charles Goodyear, the inventor of the 
process of vulcanizing India rubber, lived in our Woburn as early as 1835 in a house 
now standing, in that part of Woburn called Montvale; he was at that time poor 
and unknown, and it was while warming himself one cold night in the village store 
that his great idea occurred to him. In Woburn also was born Benjamin Thomp- 
son, afterwards made Count Rumford, who became a famous philosopher and 
scientist, known throughout Europe. John Fiske, the historian, in his History of 
the United States, says that Rumford was the greatest scientist America has pro- 
duced, and it is as a scientist that he is honoured in his native town. In 1784, he 
was knighted by the King of England, and in 1791 was created a Count of the 
Holy Roman Empire by the Elector of Bavaria. He chose the title of Rumford in 
honour of Rumford, now Concord, New Hampshire, with which town his wife's 
family was prominently identified in the days of the early settlement. Count 
Rumford was founder, with a large endowment, of the Rumford Medal of the 
American Academy of Arts and Sciences, and of the Rumford Professorship in 
Harvard College. In an article published in the Youth's Companion, August 26, 
1920, the late President Dr. Maclaurin of the Massachusetts Institute of Tech- 
nology gives an interesting account of some of Rumford 's inventions and experi- 
ments — " experiments that set the scientific world thinking and working in the 
right direction." 

A statue of Rumford was erected on the lawn of the Woburn Public Library in 
1900, the inscription on the pedestal, prepared by President Charles W. Eliot of 
Harvard College, reading in part: — 

THE EARLIEST 

SCIENTIFIC PHILANTHROPIST 

HE PROVED THAT HEAT IS MOTION 

AND H.AD A GLIMPSE 

OF THE GREAT DOCTRINE 

KNOWN LATER AS 

THE CONSERVATION OF ENERGY 

The house in which Rumford was bom is still standing in North Woburn and 
is owned and maintained as a museum of local antiquities by the Rumford Histori- 
cal Association, organized and incorporated in 1877 for that purpose. 

In North Woburn there is a statue of Loammi Baldwin, a contemporary and 



2i8 WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS 

lifelong friend of Rumford. The inscription states briefly his career, mentioning 
also the fact that he was one of the proprietors and a principal constructor of the 
Middlesex Canal, the first sheriff of Middlesex County, and then recording that 
he was 

DISSEMINATOR OF THE APPLE 

IN HONOR OF HIM CALLED 

THE BALDWIN 

WHICH PROCEEDED FROM A TREE 

ORIGINALLY GROWING WILD 

ABOUT TWO iHLES NORTH 

OF THIS MONUMENT 

The Rumford Historical Association erected a monument some years ago near 
Chestnut Street (formerly Butters Row) in that part of old Woburn now Wilming- 
ton, Massachusetts, to mark the site of this original Baldwin apple tree. 

It may be interesting also to mention that ancestors of Presidents Pierce, Har- 
rison and Cleveland are buried in the old cemetery on Park. Street in Woburn, 
while North Woburn has the distinction not only of being the birthplace of Count 
Rumford and of Col. Loammi Baldwin, but is also proud of the fact that it is the 
home of Grover Cleveland's first American ancestors. 

In its Library building, Woburn possesses one of Richardson's masterpieces of 
architecture and on the walls of the reading-room is a collection of views of Woburn 
Abbey. 

The citizens of Woburn still take a great interest in the mother town, and several 
of them have visited there in recent years. 



YORK, IMAINE 

YORK, Maine, may well be proud of the source from which she received her 
name, for that ancient cathedral city in Yorkshire on the banks of the 
Ouse, with its quaint and narrow streets, is most attractive and appeals 
to people of almost every taste. One of the lanes is called the Shambles and it 
is so narrow that neighbors on opposite sides can shake hands from the upper floors; 
there is another street in the city called Whipmawhopmagate, so named because 
it was the boundary for the public whipping of delinquents at the cart tail, a prac- 
tice used even on women at one time. According to legendary history, York was 
founded about looo B.C. by a Northumbrian king who christened it "Ebauricus." 
One thousand years later, authentic history records this city as being in the hands 
of the conquering Romans, who called it "Eboracum." Its present name of 
York is thought to be a possible contraction of the name "Jorv'ick," which was 
given to it during Danish occupancy. With the second campaign of Agricola in 
79 A.D., the history of York is clearly defined and soon afterwards we learn that the 



YORK, MAINE 



221 



Emperor Hadrian here com- 
pleted the famous chain of forts 
known as the "Pict Wall," which 
almost surrounds the city and 
provides a delightful walk. 
Examples of their ancient build- 
ings also exist. Constantine the 
Great was proclaimed Emperor 
in 306 by the Roman Legion 
then stationed there. There, 
also, was held the great slave 
market where many a maid and 
lad were sold in the Roman days 
to be conveyed to Rome. 

In medijeval days, the place 
became the scene of struggles 
between Britons, Saxons and 
Danes. There is a tradition that 
the famous King Arthur, after 
defeating ninety thousand 
Saxons on Baden hills, took up 
his residence in York and with 
the chivalrous knights and fair 
ladies of his Court celebrated 
the first Christmas festival ever 
held in England. In these days 
York was surrounded by deep 
forests and no one dared leave 
the city without an armed guard on account of the bandits and robbers who 
infested the outljing regions. In i486, Henry VII visited York and the citizens, 
to quote the records on this occasion, "drank the city dry." To Americans, York 
will have another special interest, for in the Fulford Cemetery lie many of our 
brave boys, including some from our York, who died in the Enghsh city during 
the Great War. 

York Minster is one of the most majestic cathedrals in the world and is enriched 
by innumerable historic associations. After having passed through the changes 
and additions of eight and a half centuries and the many sanguinary and thrilling 
scenes enacted at its feet, it was reconsecrated in 1472. The magnificent windows 
of medieval glass, the stone carvings and tracery, and the famous bell called "Big 
Tom," which tolls forth the hours to the passing generations, are features of this 
Cathedral. 




jT<j7>t ^ pfiuCogruph Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

THE SH.\MBLES, YORK, ENGL.\ND 

This street is so narrow that neighbors on opposite sides can 
shake hands from the upper floors. 




I'hotograpked by jostph Duncan and .1/. ./. CiT??^^?!^, ,/ „ , _^^^^^^ 

(■T-rir ,i-,Txr, ' " Kndnns Ian torbii-Robrruon. E,g. 

CITY \\.\LLS, YORK, ENGLAND 

part of the ancient defences of the city, upon which one can walk for miles. 




ST. BUDEAUX CHITKCH, NEAR P™ KXOLAXD. IX WHICH IS THE MEMORI.^ TO 

SIR FERDIXAXDO GORGES 

th^ t^lo?;t^Z^^^:f ,: ^:^'T::. inL?::le/*r "°" "' New England and particularly of 
Popham colonists to Bath; he wafgiven the ?men7"r fx^^^^^ Wa>Tnouth and the 

and changed the name of the territori' near the DresLtVnrrM "■ ^7 ^"el'-'nd," receix-ed a ro>-al charter 
name York was given later in 165 ° ^ ^' ^^^'"'^' ^'""^ Agamenticus to Gorgeana. The 



YORK, MAINE 223 

In York, the State of Maine possesses the first chartered city of America, and 
Sir Ferdinando Gorges, its founder, has been called " the Father of American Coloni- 
zation." Of his thus honouring the httle hamlet of Agamenticus at the base of the 
mountain bearing this same Indian name, Bancroft says, "She became a chartered 
borough, and Sir Ferdinando, like another Romulus, resolved to perpetuate his 
name, and under the name of 'Gorgeana' the land around York became as good a 
city as seals and parchment, a Mayor and Aldermen, a Chancery Court, Courtleet, 
Sargeants and white rods can make of a town of 300 inhabitants." Sir Ferdinando 
opened his grand and imposing Charter, creating Gorgeana a city of twenty-one 
square miles, by saying, "Whereas his Majesty, King of England, hath created me 
Absolute Lord of ye Province of Mapie," — then he proceeds to confer on his be- 
loved city, which he idealized with promise of future glory, a chartered form of 
government, nobly planned, which covered many feet of parchment. An anony- 
mous poet refers to the founding of this First City in America in the following 
lines: — • 

"For hither came a knightly train 

From o'er the sea with gorgeous court; 
The mayors gowned in robes of state, 
Held brilliant tourne\' on the plain. 
And massive ships within the port 

Discharged their load of richest freight. 
Then when at night the sun went down 

Behind the western hill and tree, 
The bowls were filled, — this toast they crown, 
'Long live the City by the Sea!'" 

This city by the sea, the favored namesake of Gorges and later of old York, 
fell heir to the tragic fortunes of both its founder and the eider city, although Thomas 
Gorges, coming here as Deputy Governor for his uncle Sir Ferdinando, strove most 
faithfully to carry out the constructive plans of his relative. The two Gorges made 
most of their plans from Bristol, England, although the memorial to Thomas Gorges 
is in Heavitree Church, near Exeter, and the one to Sir Ferdinando Gorges is in St. 
Budeaux Church, near Plymouth. With the fall of King Charles, involving the 
elder Gorges, a staunch royalist, in financial ruin and imprisonment, the struggling 
city of Gorgeana was left without head or support from the adverse Cromwellian 
rule. Its inhabitants found their lands and possessions tossed back and forth for 
the next forty years, while they defended themselves, unaided, from their garrison 
houses against the treacherous Indians. One of these garrison houses, built in 
1645, is still standing in perfect condition just above the old swinging bridge on 
the bank of York Ri\-er. 

In 1652, Massachusetts having succeeded for the time being in her claim upon 
Maine territory, Gorgeana was reorganized into the town of York, as the shire 
town of Yorkshire County. In 1623, Christopher Levett, who was born in York. 



224 



YORK, MAINE 




From " 'Ike lit-Einning! of Colonial Maine."' ? v Ilrrr-: S. P.-irr rr. D.D., Historian of Maine 



CHURCH AT LONG ASHTON, ENGLAND, IN WHICH SIR FERDINANDO GORGES WAS 

BURIED 



England, in 1576, had bestowed this same name of York on the territory then 
called by the curious name of "Quack," situated on the western shores of Casco 
Bay, off Portland. Levett explored the Maine coast, returning in the following 
year. He was in Salem when John Endicott came there and welcomed him to these 
shores. He sold his interests in Maine and died on the homeward voyage. His 
father, Percival Levett, was City Chamberlain of York, England, in 1584 and sheriff 
in 1597-98. The county jail in York, built in 1653, is still standing and is now 
put to beneficent use by the York Historical Society, which maintains it as a museum 
of local antiquities. 

York's crowning tragedy, however, befell in January, 1692, when a force of 
Indians gathered under the darkness of a winter's night on the snowy slope of Mt. 
Agamenticus, overlooking the sleeping town, and in the grey of the morning pounced 
upon the unwarned settlement, ruthlessly tomahawking family after family until 
over half the inhabitants were thus cruelly massacred. The feeble remnant still 
refused to desert the beloved locality, and struggled on, later becoming a prosperous 
fishing and farming community. 

Rev. Shubael Dummer, who organized the first Congregational church in York 
in 1662, was a graduate of Harvard College in 1656. As late as the year 1769 we 
find a curious regulation among the church records that "singing was permitted to 



YORK, MAINE 225 

the lower floor, if persons occupying the designated pews fit them up at their own 
expense." 

Of recent years, York, ]\Iaine, has become one of the most fashionable and 
attractive summer resorts of our entire New England coast. 




CROSSED SWORDS OF COLONEL WILLIAM PRESCOTT AND CAPTAIN JOHN LINZEE 

mounted on a tablet in the library of the Massachusetts Historical Society. Colonel Prescott was a leader 
of the American troops at Bunker Hill while Captain Linzee commanded the British sloop-of-war "Falcon" 
which acted against the Americans during this famous battle. By a romantic coincidence these swords 
came into the possession of the Massachusetts Historical Society through the will of WilUam Hickling 
Prescott, the celebrated historian, grandson of Colonel Prescott, who married Susan Amory, a grand- 
daughter of Captain Linzee. The international fame of these weapons has been recorded by Thackeray 
in "The Virginians." The occasion of the presentation of the swords to the Historical Society brought 
forth from Rev. Nathaniel Langdon Frothingham, D.D., a poem entitled "The Crossed Swords" which 
for many years appeared in American school books. To the people of Massachusetts a further interest 
attaches to the history of these swords as a granddaughter of WiUiam Hickling Prescott became the wife 
of Roger Wolcott, late Governor of this Commonwealth. 



In concluding this account of the ties which exist between New England and 
Old England, Ireland and Scotland, it is, perhaps, fitting to recall, in view of recent 
world events, the vision of Alfred Tennyson who, in 1852, expressed what he hoped 
America's part would be if England were ever called upon to fight a "tyrant's" 
power. Little did he then know how his hope was to be fulfilled after a lapse of 
sixty-five years. This was the noble feeling to which he then gave utterance: — 

"Gigantic daughter of the West, 

We drink to thee across the flood, 
We know thee most, we love thee best. 

For art thou not of English blood? 
Should War's mad blast again be blown, 

Permit not thou the tyrant's power 
To fight thy mother here alone. 

But let thy broadsides roar with ours. 
Hands all around! 

God the tyrant's cause confound; 
To our great kinsmen in the West 

And the great cause of freedom, round and round." 

THE END 



Edittd. dnknrd and prinird by direclion of 

tlaltm Adcirlilin!, & Prtntinf Co- 

Boston, Mass. 

U. S. A. 



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